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Shaky Video

The playback on my ST16 is pretty jerky as well. I think it's just a playback limitation on the controller and not a problem with the video.
I'm still not convinced it's a problem with the camera. The vibration should not be getting to the camera at all. When you do a hover close to you, can you see vibration in the H and in the camera?
It does it low when hovering next to me too. I am now thinking its not the camera itself but possibly the gimball. It seems very sensitive and may be giving it that jerk.
 
It does it low when hovering next to me too. I am now thinking its not the camera itself but possibly the gimball. It seems very sensitive and may be giving it that jerk.
You're getting to closer to finding the problem. Get some new dampers.
 
I just happen to have new dampners. Ive put them on and didnt notice a difference. I just reset my camera and am going to format the sd card in the camera itself and see if that helps. then do some frame shooting to try to eliminate that.
 
I reset the camera, re-formatted my sd card in the camera. I even disc checked my sd card with no errors. Changed from 1080 24fps all the way up to 120fps and it got worse as the frame rate increased. I just hovered and had the gimbal do several 360's for about 30 seconds at each frame rate and also flew around. Got the same random jittering. I cant tell if its the camera or gimbal. arrrrrrrr... Just got another email from CS Yuneec after replying to their first reply and they said to contact Drone Nerds in Florida as they were the ones who worked on my camera about a month ago. After paying $70 they said nothing was wrong it... I asked if they flew it and they didnt. They use a handheld gimball. I hate to send it back to someone and have it come back the same. There is definatley something wrong...
 
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I reset the camera, re-formatted my sd card in the camera. I even disc checked my sd card with no errors. Changed from 1080 24fps all the way up to 120fps and it got worse as the frame rate increased. I just hovered and had the gimbal do several 360's for about 30 seconds at each frame rate and also flew around. Got the same random jittering. I cant tell if its the camera or gimbal. arrrrrrrr... Just got another email from CS Yuneec after replying to their first reply and they said to contact Drone Nerds in Florida as they were the ones who worked on my camera about a month ago. After paying $70 they said nothing was wrong it... I asked if they flew it and they didnt. They use a handheld gimball. I hate to send it back to someone and have it come back the same. There is definatley something wrong...

The problem increasing with frame rate indicates camera transfer problems and not gimbal and again verifiable by shooting on the ground so there is no flying or subsequent vibrations involved. Why was it sent to third party originally? What was your normal rate before the repair? I'd be sending a file of shots from then vs now to company who did repair. I don't use 4k because it's no fun on playback with most monitors and computers still and produces "artifacts" on them. But anything 2K should be smooth all around and playback across most everything.
 
One last thing, it could be the mount of the camera gimbal to the H. Although it may be making the connection on the contacts to function, there may be something there to look at as well. I know that the gimbal should stop that, but I would look at everything at this point. I still feel the best option will be to hold the H without the blades on, fire up the camera and put it through some paces while hand held. AND ( just thought of this )......if there is a dealer near you that has the hand held gimbal, test the camera independent of the H, that will rule out a lot.
 
The problem increasing with frame rate indicates camera transfer problems and not gimbal and again verifiable by shooting on the ground so there is no flying or subsequent vibrations involved. Why was it sent to third party originally? What was your normal rate before the repair? I'd be sending a file of shots from then vs now to company who did repair. I don't use 4k because it's no fun on playback with most monitors and computers still and produces "artifacts" on them. But anything 2K should be smooth all around and playback across most everything.
Yuneec CS told me that Drone Nerds is there authorized repair facility now. Got an authorization from them but got charged for them finding nothing.
 
Did another test this morning at all frame settings including 4k sitting on my kitchen table level no flying (360 degree movement with gimball) all video including the 4k 25fps were all smooth and no glitches. I am now convinced that something is up with the gimball and it is shaking or correcting itself at certain times when it is flying. I guess the 3rd party repair facility only checked the camera and really didnt go further into the gimball.
 
Did another test this morning at all frame settings including 4k sitting on my kitchen table level no flying (360 degree movement with gimball) all video including the 4k 25fps were all smooth and no glitches. I am now convinced that something is up with the gimball and it is shaking or correcting itself at certain times when it is flying. I guess the 3rd party repair facility only checked the camera and really didnt go further into the gimball.

Good news is it's not the camera. Ok... so with it still sitting did you work all the gimbal angles and listen for any clicking on the motors? How has it calibrated and have you started the gimbal after a calibration? Does it hold position when all switches are neutral and no tilt or pan applied? That's the "hand held" test where you film while holding drone and imitate some turns and nose dips etc... and watch the monitor for steadiness. If it is the gimbal, the shake should be visible in the wifi broadcast to ST16 during flight and I'm not sure that was made clear that you do or don't see the problem on the screen. The only time I've gotten repeated shake was when my back corner rubber dampner was not popped up properly under the cover. The only other cause is actual damaged motor or bent shaft on gimbal due to a crash. They can also lose there own ability to accurately hold level if the circuits take a hit and never behave again properly and always shake. The original CGO1 camera and gimbal suffered from this problem and so did my 3rd party GoPro gimbals that I spent a bunch on for my Chroma. I've got drawers full of broken gimbals from the past as they often times take the brunt of a crash and now I expect it to be untrustworthy if it takes a big hit. It's pretty easy to see if the shaft on the main motor that holds and maintains level is bent by seeing if the gap changes as you rotate it between motor housing and wishbone frame for camera.
 
Watching the video and following the discussion, I realized I have exactly the same problem. For the moment, although I have done and verified all the necessary operations, I could not solve. I hope someone had more luck with this product. Too bad, the quality of the videos would be good if it wasn't that, in my case, they are unwatchable.
 
Watching the video and following the discussion, I realized I have exactly the same problem. For the moment, although I have done and verified all the necessary operations, I could not solve. I hope someone had more luck with this product. Too bad, the quality of the videos would be good if it wasn't that, in my case, they are unwatchable.
Have you tried to "hand fly" in the house without the motors running to see how the video looks?
 
Have you tried to "hand fly" in the house without the motors running to see how the video looks?
yes, I also did this test. doing as you say the problem is not there. I can think of it as a problem attributable to the gimbal rubbers. I have ordered various types of them and as soon as they arrive I will do other tests hoping to solve this problem. if I can find a solution I will be happy to share it with you all.
 
If you have not done so, remove the dust cover from the gimbal around the dampers.
 
If you have not done so, remove the dust cover from the gimbal around the dampers.
thanks for the suggestion (this is really a great community and fortunately it exists, I only regret that to give us some help should be the manufacturer, let's forget it is megklio. I prefer not to comment on yuneec support!). However, I have already taken steps to follow all the various recommendations received here and the results have not been successful. Today there was a turning point! I tried to replace his rubber pads with those of my DJI Phantom 3 Advanced and ... magic !!! 99% of the vibrations have ceased, only one area remains when the camera is roasting which produces the usual jello effect but, for almost all the shooting, the drone looks like another one !! now I try to figure out if I can post some videos just to show the different ones I've found. this will require additional tests but I seem to be able to write that this could probably be the way forward.
 
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While I try to understand how to post some video examples, start with some photos showing the modification made. Obviously since I was in the game I couldn't resist and I mounted the Typhoon H dampers on the Phantom 3A. In this case the results were not bad but I still prefer its original DJI. Unfortunately every now and then I had some more vibrations than those that can usually be done on the Phantom 3A. in this case too I want to go deeper into the matter because instead it seems to me that the detail in the videos, after the transplantation of the aforementioned rubber elements has improved as a definition . For example, the usual trees in the distance, with leaves and branches that look like cotton puffs, after the substitution of the dampers seem to have more detail and greater visibility. I didn't really think it could happen.


20190603_075852.jpg20190603_075919.jpg20190603_075927.jpg20190603_080001.jpg20190603_080129.jpg20190603_080146.jpg
20190603_080215.jpg


P.S. I apologize for not really correct English but I use a translator to be able to contribute.
 
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Good work.
You cannot post video in the Forum. You must load it to Youtube and then copy the link in your post.
 
Good work.
You cannot post video in the Forum. You must load it to Youtube and then copy the link in your post.


yes thank you, I realized that this is the only way to do it. I'm preparing everything so that I can post them on youtube. don't pay attention to the shots, they only serve as jello effect tests !!! I hope they can help some other person too. I went crazy trying to solve this annoying problem that made my drone practically unusable. Not being a FPV racing drone, if you can't do filming ... what is it for?
 
As promised I managed to post some demonstration videos on Youtube. Watching videos
everything is much clearer.


Yuneec Typhoon H. 4K RAW footage. Jello video with its original dampers. Demo video 1


Yuneec Typhoon H. 4K RAW footage. Jello video with its original dampers. Demo video 2

Yuneec Typhoon H. 4K RAW footage. Video with DJI Phantom 3 Advanced dampers. Demo video 1

The jello effect is not completely gone but there are great improvements. Only in the 360° rotation of the camera, at 2.47 minutes, does this annoying problem resume. I will try to do better to fix it completely if possible.


Yuneec Typhoon H. 4K RAW footage. Video with DJI Phantom 3 Advanced dampers. Demo video 2

This is the first time I can shoot an entire video without the disastrous Jello effect using DJI Phantom 3 Advanced dampers. The tests continue but I am confident.
 
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You should have none with the proper grommets. DJI are too hard. There are different CGO3 mounts from production runs and the old mount was better then the new and it’s the molding of the top plate that’s different. There are totally flat ones for the original CGO camera on the Q500 with the long ribbed grommets. That is for Chroma and Q500 only and the non rotating camera.

When the made the 480, they made a top plate that drops the grommet mount ears down a bit and went with a shorter and stiffer grommet with the two safety pins on opposite corners. Those pins where more of a c clip to post connection and the clip did not touch anything inside the recess of the molded plate.

When they started making the 480 as a pro package wih the real sense standard and set those out for a good price, many of us discovered with those that the gimbal mount is changed. It now shows two arrows for the proper direction for sliding in and a sloped backside for easier finger access for release later.

This design had different grommets and had more of a washer for retaining then a clip. That washer touches the inside of the housing and caused major jello for me. The top dust cover also touched the RS module and passed vibrations down to the camera for increased jello. I found original Yuneec GGO3+ replacement top plate and grommets and that along with no dust cover stopped the jello.

Lastly, are your props balanced? That can cause intermittent vibrations that will make it to your video. The 480 has many flaws but it is the reliable 360 uninterrupted video that is shake and prop free that made it superior for cinematic motion. Using DJI parts is not the solution as every gimbal and camera design relies on the proper dampening to perform for weight and balance distribution.

You should see if you can get a loaner camera and see if the problem follows as you may have a faulty gimbal with some unhappy motors. As someone who spent a similar amount of time and frustration when I got jello, this is what worked for me. I’ve got five 480s and all of them deliver always smooth video but I do check those camera mounts very thoroughly before flight as it’s a very “Yuneec” set up.
 
Perhaps his pictures finally illustrated the issue he was having with his gimbal. If he had the original dampers tied together with his concept of a “anti separation safety device” he would have been the cause of the problem by restricting the movement of the dampers and linking them to each other.

In the pictures the string or whatever it is connects a pair of dampers and there is no slack in the line, indicating it has been pulled tight and either somewhat compressed the dampers or significantly restricted their ability to flex and dampen vibration. That arrangement pretty much eliminates any benefit in having dampers at all and telegraphs vibration from the airframe to the camera.

So based on the pictures I suspect his shakey video issues were self induced. He might try re-installing the stock dampers and getting rid of the string to view the results.
 

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