Why didn't yuneec use a bigger battery?
- Thread starter Peter a
- Start date
Okay I stay away from forums but I feel there are some legitimate questions being posed here that I can help answer. That video is myself testing a tray I purchased off eBay from Ralphy. As stated I am running 8000Mah LIHV Multistar batteries. That tray is transparent red not magenta Ralphy, but it does help when giving it a quick look for orientation. The weight on Hobby King is incorrect the difference between the 2 in weight is: factory weight 568grams / 8,000 LIHV Multi 621g. Weight is not an issue and has not affected flight at all.
My flight times are around 25-30 minutes. As you can see I was at an AMA drone track. Before I made that video I filmed 6 races and let a few people give the H a try. That pack ran for 34 minutes on a very windy day until I received the first alarm.
As for the antennas I gave a quick rundown in the video comments since many people were asking. Just as a quick intro I have been building and racing RC buggys, stadium trucks, planes and quads since the early 90's. I am a Civil Engineer by trade but my Masters is in Electrical Engineering. I do have a Commercial FCC radio license as well as a FAA Private Pilot License. The antenna modifications were the result of a lot of testing but I would like to stick to the topic at hand.
I have had horrible luck with the stock packs. I have 1 with 5 flights that has a bad cell already. I have 5 stock packs, some run for 16 minutes others 12. After I had a pack suddenly drop from 15 to 14.4 in a hover while filming I started searching for another solution.
Please take a stock battery and check the cell resistance. I have yet to get a pack that doesn't have a cell under 8 milliOhms! I have several in the 12-14 range fresh out of the box. This is a general guideline I have gone by:
a) Packs that are as good as new: between 0 and 5 milliOhm/cell
b) Packs that have been used dozens of times, but still feeling fairly good: between 5 and 10 milliOhm/cell
c) Packs that have been used even more, and start to feel weak: between 10 and 20 milliOhm/cell
d) Packs that almost won't hold your model in the air anymore: over 20-25 milliOhm/cell
I now have 8 8,000 Mah LIHV packs for this Hex and all are below 2 milliOhm. Some have 8 flights on them and they have worked great. To date I have 37 flights on that tray.
My flight times are around 25-30 minutes. As you can see I was at an AMA drone track. Before I made that video I filmed 6 races and let a few people give the H a try. That pack ran for 34 minutes on a very windy day until I received the first alarm.
As for the antennas I gave a quick rundown in the video comments since many people were asking. Just as a quick intro I have been building and racing RC buggys, stadium trucks, planes and quads since the early 90's. I am a Civil Engineer by trade but my Masters is in Electrical Engineering. I do have a Commercial FCC radio license as well as a FAA Private Pilot License. The antenna modifications were the result of a lot of testing but I would like to stick to the topic at hand.
I have had horrible luck with the stock packs. I have 1 with 5 flights that has a bad cell already. I have 5 stock packs, some run for 16 minutes others 12. After I had a pack suddenly drop from 15 to 14.4 in a hover while filming I started searching for another solution.
Please take a stock battery and check the cell resistance. I have yet to get a pack that doesn't have a cell under 8 milliOhms! I have several in the 12-14 range fresh out of the box. This is a general guideline I have gone by:
a) Packs that are as good as new: between 0 and 5 milliOhm/cell
b) Packs that have been used dozens of times, but still feeling fairly good: between 5 and 10 milliOhm/cell
c) Packs that have been used even more, and start to feel weak: between 10 and 20 milliOhm/cell
d) Packs that almost won't hold your model in the air anymore: over 20-25 milliOhm/cell
I now have 8 8,000 Mah LIHV packs for this Hex and all are below 2 milliOhm. Some have 8 flights on them and they have worked great. To date I have 37 flights on that tray.
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Factory battery 565grams
Ms 8000 +tray 625grams
The tray is 42grams kit that you solder up is $40
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Is your tray 3D printed? If so from what? Pretty much every 3D printed part I've used melts here in Vegas if they're made from PLA. I think ABS will do better.
Right now i can offer you your money back 100% if your not fully satisfied. I havnt recieved a single complaint or return.
Not going to spill the beans on something I did not create. I have flown this tray on 98 deg days with 0 problems. Inside Hex temps were around 130deg F. Pack was 109deg.
PatR
Premium Pilot
Did a shoot last week where if I had to take off with a 100% charged battery every time I would have lost a lot of flight time. Most days got two flights from each battery before re-charging. I don't know about others but I log the voltage start and end levels of every flight, along with the flight time. An $00.88 digital timer from WalMart stuck on the face of the ST-16 makes time logging very easy. A pain for paperwork but works out well for knowing about how much time you have left on a battery after a short flight, and in knowing permits maximizing tool use. I established a voltage "floor" (14.8v) that I won't discharge below which helps keep things predictable. The thought of flying until receiving a low voltage warning is something that troubles me, and conducting every flight that way is to me just begging for trouble. Voltage warnings are, to me, there to tell you when you've over indulged. Sort of like always running you car's gas tank down until the low fuel warning comes on. Do that where's there's no gas stations and you may end up walking.
PatR
Premium Pilot
Robbi,
ABS will do better but I don't know if a lot of the small printers in use can handle it. ABS starts getting soft at ~140C, is becoming elastic at ~180C, and becomes a thick liquid ~220C-240C.
I like that the batts are not smart. But then again I will discharge them about 50% for storage on my own if I quit flying for a few weeks. Not sure I would feel comfortable putting a smart battery on a fast charger.
$105 from Florida
Yuneec Typhoon H Battery
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FlushVision
Premium Pilot
My standard H batteries haven't bedded in properly yet, but I'm getting about 17 minutes air time out of them landing before the first low level warning. That time seems to be ok for the sort of stuff I'm doing particularly since my Commercial Ops Manual gives my H a flight endurance of just 16 minutes.
Thant's my concern. I don't know if this is PLA or ABS but I would hate for this to happen to the battery carrier.
Again I won't divulge the material, it is not my product but it WILL NOT MELT in your Hexacopter. If your looking to buy them he did mention to contact him. He has his own site here: Yunnecessary Typhoon H 3rd party Power Solutions
If I'm violating any forum rules with the link please let me know, some places frown upon it. I am just trying to point forum members in the right direction to save money.
I am planning on making an antenna tutorial if there are enough people interested. It will void your warranty. You will be disassembling you ST-16, CGO Camera and the Drone covers need to be removed. It is not difficult but precision when working on the camera antenna is of utmost importance. Parts are around $500 and will require a good set of tools. If your genuinely interested please let me know.
If I'm violating any forum rules with the link please let me know, some places frown upon it. I am just trying to point forum members in the right direction to save money.
I am planning on making an antenna tutorial if there are enough people interested. It will void your warranty. You will be disassembling you ST-16, CGO Camera and the Drone covers need to be removed. It is not difficult but precision when working on the camera antenna is of utmost importance. Parts are around $500 and will require a good set of tools. If your genuinely interested please let me know.
Are you trying to design a tray that works or do you want to buy a tray that works?
If you want to buy one that works i have what you need, if your trying to make one there are about a dozen materials and settings and printers you can expirement with.
DONT WASTE THE TIME ON ABS.
If you want to buy one that works i have what you need, if your trying to make one there are about a dozen materials and settings and printers you can expirement with.
DONT WASTE THE TIME ON ABS.
Thant's my concern. I don't know if this is PLA or ABS but I would hate for this to happen to the battery carrier.
Whats super interesting is that this wont happen because i along with many others tested the heck out of what i sell. I damaged it broke it purposely and studied it over and over and over again until i was satisfied the person buying it would have a relaible product. Not one return or disatisfied customer. Im not stopping there much better things lie ahead for those that support my efforts.
I have a 3D printer but no interest making a tray, I'll I'll give yours a try.
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