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A bit surprised, submitted a claim for 1 swollen battery to yuneec within warranty period, then in a final email reply my 2nd battery had swollen too!

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So will be interesting if they send 1 or 2 replacement batteries, apparently I do not have to send back old ones or do i ??

First took battery to best buy, they would not deal with it, say they only usually send back complete drone or device & not batteries ever, so do not waste time on that approach.

I have only had about 15 flights due to only a single trustworthy battery, have order 2 6300mah to augment, seems they are decent performing, i shall see and compare with replaced batteries for time and charge cycles.

Happy Holidays everyone !
 
Has anyone from Yuneec actually confirmed that they are covering this claim?
Maintenance items like batteries are rarely covered... particularly since a battery's condition is completely dependent on the circumstances it was stored in and the type of charger used... the Yuneec OEM charger has been consistently deemed not up to par in regards to healthy battery maintenance.
 
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Also begs the question, as posted several times before... “are the cells actually swollen, or is the nameplate bowed or otherwise deformed a bit to give the impression the cells are puffed?”

If the nameplate has some bounce (give) that may give one a clue as to whether the battery is actually swollen.

Two of my original batteries, almost two years old, are still going strong, yet the nameplate is definitely puffed. The cells all balance and the flight times are good as any of my “younger” packs.

Regardless, it is always the pilot’s call as to whether equipment is good to go or needs removal from operation.

Curious, as is Eagle, as to the outcome of the warranty claim.

Jeff
 
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I registered TH on their site, and if i go there and click warranty, it shows what is covered and for how long, simple to find out, read all laid out.


when first received both name areas were flat, 1 got a bit of swell after initial charge on one, the other not at all, after 2nd charge bad one was rock hard and swollen as far as possible, very hard and tight, clearly something very wrong, used it for a short flight, then recharged and again hard as rock.

the 2nd battery only has just begun swelling after ~15 charges, if i interpret the ser# on both, made likely same day and year is 2016.

i only have orig charger and both supposedly go thru complete charge/balance cycle but then who really knows, no display or way to know unless you buy tools to measure, just the final beep ??


batteries have a 30day warranty upon purchase of complete drone (refurbished-everything looked new), 1 swelled after 1st charge the other just started swelling 2 days ago.


i got a confirmation of YUNEEC support acceptance of issue and a email that an email will be sent when batteries shipped out to me, and case is now closed status.


i was actually surprised but then it is THEIR warranty conditions and i fully was within 1st 30days on both batteries (barely), besides these are expensive items, they should have a reasonable life cycle, surely 30days or more tbh.

now how long will it take for them to ship ??
 
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30 days is more than ample as inexperienced users can induce battery failures after as little as 1 flight. Those that store them charged can induce failure in just a couple weeks. If other actions are combined with older date of manufacture batteries failures are assured.

You should be pleased that Yuneec is providing warranty replacements. I’m surprised they would accept the swollen batteries back as they are not safe for shipment. But that’s your problem should something happen while they are in transit as you declared them safe in the HazMat document, provided you declared them as required.
 
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30 days is more than ample as inexperienced users can induce battery failures after as little as 1 flight. Those that store them charged can induce failure in just a couple weeks. If other actions are combined with older date of manufacture batteries failures are assured.

You should be pleased that Yuneec is providing warranty replacements. I’m surprised they would accept the swollen batteries back as they are not safe for shipment. But that’s your problem should something happen while they are in transit as you declared them safe in the HazMat document, provided you declared them as required.
Perhaps their in the Christmas spirit.
 
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i got a confirmation of YUNEEC support acceptance of issue and a email that an email will be sent when batteries shipped out to me, and case is now closed status.

Congratulations on beating the odds... IMO, do not send back the original batteries if you are not specifically instructed by Yuneec, to do so. Follow instructions on this board, regarding safe disposal.

i only have orig charger and both supposedly go thru complete charge/balance cycle but then who really knows, no display or way to know unless you buy tools to measure, just the final beep ??

This is precisely why you need to purchase a better 3rd party charger... because the OEM charger gives you no information at all on your batteries. If you do not choose to do so, and your replacement batteries swell as well... you are likely to be told... you are SOL. They will only give you the benefit of the doubt once.
 
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Did they not ask you for the battery serial numbers? They should as they may have had a bad batch around that particular year/date.
Also surprised they doidn't ask for a photo with some sort of evidence. Anyway, glad you're getting them replaced. :)
 
Congratulations on beating the odds... IMO, do not send back the original batteries if you are not specifically instructed by Yuneec, to do so. Follow instructions on this board, regarding safe disposal.



This is precisely why you need to purchase a better 3rd party charger... because the OEM charger gives you no information at all on your batteries. If you do not choose to do so, and your replacement batteries swell as well... you are likely to be told... you are SOL. They will only give you the benefit of the doubt once.
I'm a new Breeze owner , what charger do you recommend and I want to order extra batteries as well , should I get OEM or 3rd party ?
Thanks
 
I'm a new Breeze owner , what charger do you recommend and I want to order extra batteries as well , should I get OEM or 3rd party ?
Thanks

I will actually defer to our resident Breeze SME... @DoomMeister
 
I'm a new Breeze owner , what charger do you recommend and I want to order extra batteries as well , should I get OEM or 3rd party ?
Thanks

For now I would still recommend OEM batteries for the Breeze. The third party batteries with higher mAh ratings do not seem to give longer flight times than the 1150mAh OEM batteries. If you do a little research into LiPo battery technology you will find that to fit a larger mAh rated battery into the same physical space as a lower rated one other ratings have to suffer so you end up with close to the same energy output.

The trouble with third party chargers is finding adapter cables for the Breeze battery packs. There was an older post of someone in Europe making cables. It was a private individual not a company. There is a pair for sale by a member of the forum that built his own here Anybody wants the balance charging cable for Breeze batteries?.

Most any multi use charger that will do LiPo, Li-ion, LiFe, LiHV, Pb acid, NiCad, and NiMh batteries and has measurement and discharge/storage charge capabilities will suffice. It must at a minimum be able to a 3S1P battery. You could ask @neosunrise what charger he was using with the cables he is selling.
 
surprisingly NOT, had copied serial#s and had them handy, but maybe they can track back and know what was in pkg, certainly would think they could these days of upc labels on everything ?

i have also order 2 ultrax 6300mah battieries, tired of only a single battery flight/day, so maybe will have 1 semi useful battery and 3-4 good ones !


Did they not ask you for the battery serial numbers? They should as they may have had a bad batch around that particular year/date.
Also surprised they doidn't ask for a photo with some sort of evidence. Anyway, glad you're getting them replaced. :)
 
Nothing in this reply is a recommendation but simply a statement of my personal experiences.

One of the batteries I received with a refurbished Typhoon H would produce a flashing blue light when plugged into the charger. I contacted Yuneec and after I inserted it several times, making sure it was properly seated, and still getting the blue light they said they would send a replacement. I received a notice that it was shipped from Kansas City and I checked UPS and it's on its way.

As they didn't request that I return the defective battery I decided to check it out. I measured the voltage and it was 12.98V. Each cell was within 1 or 2 hundredths of the others. I rigged up some metal pins that I inserted into the end terminals to facilitate connecting a battery charger, I connected my 12V car battery charger and turned it on for about 15 seconds and then measured the overall voltage. It rose a small amount .

After about a minute or so I repeated this with the same result. After approximately 30 minutes I got the voltage up to 14.4V. I rechecked across each cell and all cells were equal. I then charged it normally. It seemed like the charger did it's balancing thing a bit more than it did with the good battery but now it seems normal. I flew for about 10 minutes with it yesterday and the voltage didn't drop abnormally.

I suspect that this battery was part of a returned system and had sat on the shelf for a prolonged period of time.
I feel certain that there are those with concerns about the safety, etc. of what I did but I'd like to hear about anyone's personal (not hearsay) experiences.
 
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Some foundational info first;

I have had two H batteries that had been discharged to <13v. One was bought as "used once" from a person that had crashed his H. After being told the battery was in good shape I bought it and 3 others that were unused. After receiving the used battery I checked voltage and found it to be at a 12.3V charge state. That pretty much explained why the previous owner crashed his H.

The other deep discharged battery was one that self discharged while my H was lodged high in a pine tree. That particular battery sat in the tree discharging for several days and also discharged to about 12.3 or so volts. Apparently factory H batteries contain a discharge protection safety circuit that limits the amount the battery can be discharged. I know a factory H battery contains a pair of printed circuit boards with quite a few tiny components on them. As I do not use Yuneec's H kit charger I don't know what would have happened had I tried to use it, but using a Hitec X2-400 charger set to a 1/2C charge rate both batteries charged up to full capacity with balanced cells. Later charge cycles used a 1C charge rate to achieve a full, balanced charge state. However, something to note is that neither battery would provide any level of useful flight time afterwards and would discharge very quickly as soon as the load from spinning motors was applied to them. 3-5 minutes was the longest flight time either would provide before discharging to 14.7v.

Most chargers are programmed with a lower cell voltage limit below which they will not charge a lipo battery. Should any cell fall below roughly 3.2v or 3v they are no longer safe to charge at standard charge rates. To have any hope of charging cells over discharged a very low trickle charge rate has to be used to elevate cell voltage high enough for a "normal" charge rate to be used. Bear in mind cells in such a state will likely have sustained damage and not function as well, if at all, as they did prior to being deep discharged. They also become a high safety risk.

I suspect the H kit charger has a similar low cell voltage threshold and will not charge a battery that is either too low in total voltage or too low with individual cell voltages. We should understand that Yuneec provides the kit charger designed to protect users from their own ignorance in order to avoid product liability lawsuits from people that induce battery explosions and fires though their own ignorance. Something every drone flyer should do when obtaining batteries is check pack and cell voltage states prior to using them for the first time, but they first need to know what the "safe" voltages should be in order to make accurate assessments. They should also periodically check their batteries to assure the battery has not deteriorated to an unsafe state. The best way to do that is to create and maintain a battery log sheet that tracks voltage, charge rates, charge times, mA input, use cycles, and flight times. Doing so can prevent a lot of angst.

I'm going to be quite blunt in the following; Sorry to say it but the fact is, newbies to the "drone world" typically know virtually nothing about the systems and associated components they are about to start using and often don't bother to perform any educational research until after they've destroyed their aircraft or batteries. Usually that research is initiated only after making numerous inflammatory posts in manufacturer and other RC forums demanding a manufacturer replace their aircraft or batteries under warranty at no charge simply because they were stupid. The batteries we employ to power our systems are not tolerant of abuse but there seems to be a segment of the modeling population that thinks (or doesn't think at all) that lipo batteries can be run down until an aircraft falls out of the sky and still be fully functional afterwards. When things go south they say "but I didn't know and the manufacturer should have better informed me". That doesn't work as manufacturers build low voltage warnings into their systems to assure users don't deep discharge their batteries, but users often ignore those warnings and continue flying, despite anything the manufactures state in operating instructions.

For those that don't understand their batteries, a lipo should not be discharged below 3.2v/cell, with that measurement taken with the battery "under load". Under load means with the motors spinning and ideally during a climb. The total pack voltage should measure 3.2v, minimum, times the number of cells in the pack. Battery voltage measured with no load applied is a false voltage as voltage rebounds several tenth's of a volt after the load is removed. After a period of time cooling off the voltage will rebound a little further. If we ever obtain a 4s battery with a voltage of 12.8v, exactly 3.2v/cell, we can be pretty certain it had been discharged well below that point as the voltage will have rebounded to some extent over time. Personally, I would be highly suspicious of any 4s battery having a voltage of 14v or lower.

The primary message I'm trying to get across with all of the above is to get people to learn more about their systems and the components in them that will be relied upon. They will often find they will have to expand their research beyond the common RC or drone manufacturer forums to obtain the best comprehension of products they will be using. The more they learn the better they will understand what is happening, how and why things work, and why some things may not work as they think they should. The increased knowledge and understanding will make their activities safer and contribute greatly to extending the life of their systems.
 
I highly recommend people read the above information without emotion... despite my own ignorance, I was able to gain a reasonable understanding of our batteries, almost completely from this board, and this man right here ↑.

Any knowledge on batteries I have been able to pass on here... PatR is going to be the source cited in >95% my footnotes. (where's that "I'm not worthy" smilie?)
 
Some foundational info first;

I have had two H batteries that had been discharged to <13v. One was bought as "used once" from a person that had crashed his H. After being told the battery was in good shape I bought it and 3 others that were unused. After receiving the used battery I checked voltage and found it to be at a 12.3V charge state. That pretty much explained why the previous owner crashed his H.

The other deep discharged battery was one that self discharged while my H was lodged high in a pine tree. That particular battery sat in the tree discharging for several days and also discharged to about 12.3 or so volts. Apparently factory H batteries contain a discharge protection safety circuit that limits the amount the battery can be discharged. I know a factory H battery contains a pair of printed circuit boards with quite a few tiny components on them. As I do not use Yuneec's H kit charger I don't know what would have happened had I tried to use it, but using a Hitec X2-400 charger set to a 1/2C charge rate both batteries charged up to full capacity with balanced cells. Later charge cycles used a 1C charge rate to achieve a full, balanced charge state. However, something to note is that neither battery would provide any level of useful flight time afterwards and would discharge very quickly as soon as the load from spinning motors was applied to them. 3-5 minutes was the longest flight time either would provide before discharging to 14.7v.

Most chargers are programmed with a lower cell voltage limit below which they will not charge a lipo battery. Should any cell fall below roughly 3.2v or 3v they are no longer safe to charge at standard charge rates. To have any hope of charging cells over discharged a very low trickle charge rate has to be used to elevate cell voltage high enough for a "normal" charge rate to be used. Bear in mind cells in such a state will likely have sustained damage and not function as well, if at all, as they did prior to being deep discharged. They also become a high safety risk.

I suspect the H kit charger has a similar low cell voltage threshold and will not charge a battery that is either too low in total voltage or too low with individual cell voltages. We should understand that Yuneec provides the kit charger designed to protect users from their own ignorance in order to avoid product liability lawsuits from people that induce battery explosions and fires though their own ignorance. Something every drone flyer should do when obtaining batteries is check pack and cell voltage states prior to using them for the first time, but they first need to know what the "safe" voltages should be in order to make accurate assessments. They should also periodically check their batteries to assure the battery has not deteriorated to an unsafe state. The best way to do that is to create and maintain a battery log sheet that tracks voltage, charge rates, charge times, mA input, use cycles, and flight times. Doing so can prevent a lot of angst.

I'm going to be quite blunt in the following; Sorry to say it but the fact is, newbies to the "drone world" typically know virtually nothing about the systems and associated components they are about to start using and often don't bother to perform any educational research until after they've destroyed their aircraft or batteries. Usually that research is initiated only after making numerous inflammatory posts in manufacturer and other RC forums demanding a manufacturer replace their aircraft or batteries under warranty at no charge simply because they were stupid. The batteries we employ to power our systems are not tolerant of abuse but there seems to be a segment of the modeling population that thinks (or doesn't think at all) that lipo batteries can be run down until an aircraft falls out of the sky and still be fully functional afterwards. When things go south they say "but I didn't know and the manufacturer should have better informed me". That doesn't work as manufacturers build low voltage warnings into their systems to assure users don't deep discharge their batteries, but users often ignore those warnings and continue flying, despite anything the manufactures state in operating instructions.

For those that don't understand their batteries, a lipo should not be discharged below 3.2v/cell, with that measurement taken with the battery "under load". Under load means with the motors spinning and ideally during a climb. The total pack voltage should measure 3.2v, minimum, times the number of cells in the pack. Battery voltage measured with no load applied is a false voltage as voltage rebounds several tenth's of a volt after the load is removed. After a period of time cooling off the voltage will rebound a little further. If we ever obtain a 4s battery with a voltage of 12.8v, exactly 3.2v/cell, we can be pretty certain it had been discharged well below that point as the voltage will have rebounded to some extent over time. Personally, I would be highly suspicious of any 4s battery having a voltage of 14v or lower.

The primary message I'm trying to get across with all of the above is to get people to learn more about their systems and the components in them that will be relied upon. They will often find they will have to expand their research beyond the common RC or drone manufacturer forums to obtain the best comprehension of products they will be using. The more they learn the better they will understand what is happening, how and why things work, and why some things may not work as they think they should. The increased knowledge and understanding will make their activities safer and contribute greatly to extending the life of their systems.
Sorry to hear about your bad experience with those batteries. Pretty hard to draw any conclusions about the "used once" one but I was surprised to read that the H in the tree had not shut down before discharging to that point. And about that one in the tree how did it get there? I'm new to drones and prefer about learning from the unfortunate experiences of others than my own.
I take it you disassembled one of the batteries and saw the PCs. Do you have any more info (pictures, diagrams) on them? Prior to retirement, I was able to walk down to the airport terminal and have battery packs scanned to get an idea of the internal arrangement.
 
Sorry to hear about your bad experience with those batteries. Pretty hard to draw any conclusions about the "used once" one but I was surprised to read that the H in the tree had not shut down before discharging to that point. And about that one in the tree how did it get there? I'm new to drones and prefer about learning from the unfortunate experiences of others than my own.
I take it you disassembled one of the batteries and saw the PCs. Do you have any more info (pictures, diagrams) on them? Prior to retirement, I was able to walk down to the airport terminal and have battery packs scanned to get an idea of the internal arrangement.
Probably got in the tree because like everyone else you have to start somewhere, and learn from your mistakes. Knowledge is power, in some circumstances, probably not too much in politician's though.
 
My tree was the direct result of a system failure fly away, and well documented in this forum a couple years ago. Search back in December 2016 for the thread. RC experience has been continuous since 1977, with aero modeling of other types going back to 1960. On the RC side, there were quite a few crashes as auto pilots, gyros, and accelerometers were not present during that time. You really had to fly the aircraft in all aspects yourself. My multirotor experience only goes back to 2012 or so with design, development, and testing so I suppose some may feel that experience might be limited. OTOH, that experience was enough to allow becoming a part of the development process with this one. Yes, I have crashed multirotors. Discounting indoor micro quads, 4 times to be exact. One, the first, was totally my fault. Two were the result of unstable, experimental designs during test flights, and the last was the fly away two years ago. Should you have any more sarcastic allegations we can address them with enlightenment.
 

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My tree was the direct result of a fly away, and well documented in this forum a couple years ago. Search back in December 2016 for the thread. RC experience has been continuous since 1977, with aero modeling of other types going back to 1960. On the RC side, there were quite a few crashes as auto pilots, gyros, and accelerometers were not present during that time. You really had to fly the aircraft in all aspects yourself. My multirotor experience only goes back to 2012 so with design, development, and testing so I suppose some may feel that experience might be limited. OTOH, I was part of the design review team and had a little involvement with this one. Yes, I have crashed multirotors. Discounting indoor micro quads, 4 times to be exact. One, the first, was totally my fault. Two were the result of unstable, experimental designs during test flights, and the last was the fly away two years ago.
I put my Heathkit RC rig away over 30 years ago and haven't seen it since. Now that I think about it make that 40 years.
 
There ya go:) Can you imagine the mayhem if people actually had to fly these things manually the way everything used to be?
 

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