Thank you, Terrence. I can check plus and minus. The question is about more circuits inside the battery. For example temperature sensor or something like this. Where is the reason to put a lot of pins?
About the secondary/alternative power source. I'm still checking, but I'm almost sure, the ST16 or ST16S doesn't charge the batteries in a proper way. I have a lot of YP-3A batteries, with different ages and cycles. Now I'm charging a second of them, which show about 70% on the ST screen. The charging current is 2 amps with a limit of 4.1 volts. Further current goes down slowly. After 125 minutes of charging the current is 0.4 A, the battery ate 1950 mA and seeing from the previous one, from this point I should wait an hour or more to be fully charged. With any USB charger, this scenario is impossible, so the ST charges something but not to be full.
If there is no complexity to using two pins battery, I'll prepare a cradle to hold on its place. Charging will be done outside of the controller.
the st16 battery with the ec connector can be charged on any battery charger that supports lithium ion batteries. just need a ec2 to ec3 adapter and the correct plugs fir the charger. I was using venom pro 2 charger for the h480 version of the st16 pro batteries. and then placing them into a dummy battery connector to the h520 st16s. side note the dummy st16s battery remove the lithium safety board (it's for protection of the onboard lithium cells which are removed) that connects to the plug head and replace that with just 2 wires one positive one negative which are then connected to the alternative power source on the other end doing so you will have correct polarity and power to all pins that connect to the st16s or st16e by default. also correct a error due to 2 or more lithium protection boards (pending on how you set it up) in the system where you have to unplug and then plug the dummy connector back in to turn on the st16pro, st16s or st16e when the controller is off
here are some examples of 2 dummy battery adapters that I have the one without wires is ready for final additional circuits and will not cause a issue with the st16s or st16e the one with wires will work but there will be issues were the dummy plug must be detached and reattached for the st16s and st16e to power up.
What is the difference in the schematic? Someone knows where I can buy the PCB with the connector or at least, what is the connector name. I'll print the housing because I'm still not ready to break the working battery. I'll pity to break something working.
Probably I understood what do you want to say. Correct me if I'm not right. The circuit with some IC's is expected from the ST16S. If it is not present, there will be an issue with the start-up sequence and should the battery be detached when the switch is moving to the on position, and after that to attach the battery. Something like this one or not?
Can you take a closer photo to see the IC's on the PCB?