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CGo3+ Geotagging

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Hey All - I'm new to my Typhoon H, and had assumed because of the great GPS abillity that the JPGs would be "geotagged" ... they aren't at least i any way I can tell. Meaning the Lat and Long fields in the properties of any pics are 0, using the onboard camera tool. Is there any way to take pics with the drone that puts that information onto the pics ?

I'm trying to use it for inspection purposes, and this is a critical function for the mapping software. Thanks !
John
 
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By the onboard camera tool, are you referring to the gallery on the ST-16? I ask because those photos are lo-res from the video feed for in the field review. Check the photos on the SD card in a program like Lightroom or other good photo editor to check for geotagging.
 
In order to find the geotag information, insert the sd card into your (windows) PC and:
1. Right click the image
2. Select Properties
3. Select Details
4. Go down until you see "GPS"
 
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Something else a bit important for those attempting mapping missions. The ST-16 stores only a very limited number of pictures and videos before over writing them. Not sure of the exact count but anyone trying to use controller stored images to make a map will be unsuccessful every time.
 
Gentleman I could kiss you ! I had assumed I had bought a several hundred dollar boondoggle. The first pic I checked was off the SD card, as a snapshot, but I'm going to update the firmware and try again.

The Application I'm trying to use is called "Scanifly" and they do solar evaluations from a geotagged mission. They stitch together a few hundred jpgs into a 3d autocad file of a home, suitable for laying out a panel design, complete with knowing where all the roof penetrations are.
 
What firmware are you going to update?

If yours matches this photo you are on the latest and greatest for the system.

12274C3A-99B6-446C-B882-9D2D49499B59.jpeg
 
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It was 3.2.26, just updated it to 3.2.34, will fly again tomorrow morning. I'll probably spring for UAV Toolbox, but for now, all I need to do is a POI orbit, doing time lapse that overlap by ~60%.

SD cards are so cheap it's scary - I've got a 128 U3 now, ad if we weren't gusting to 30 on the ground I'd go do this now.

Thank you again for your support, so far so good.
 
So went out for some dusk flying, after waiting the winds out all day. Got some decent pics of the park down by city hall, attached. Nothing great, but a start. I could make a pile of excuses - first time out, cold, windy, etc ... but hey - they're not bad. Anyways - on getting home, they have geotagging and an altitude number that looks udeful. I don't think it's feet, maybe yards? I thought I was NOT in metric, maybe I was.
YUN00011.jpg

YUN00005.jpg

The only fail was I did not get POI to work. That'll be tomorrow's project. Long story short, I need to circle the home while the camera stays facing it, taking my overlapping pics. In high winds with the jackrabbit adjustment to full slow, it did not work. the camera did not track the centerpoint at all. The drone or the gimbal should have rotated. Needless to say, I'm fully confident there was operator error involved.
 
Just an FYI, the H can handle 30 mph gusts. The only questions are; are you good enough to deal with T/O and landing under those conditions. The H can deal effectively with winds up 35-37mph, but the battery gets used up faster.

You may have problems extracting Yuneec GPS data with some programs. The H was not set up by Yuneec to interact with geo referencing programs. You may well find that UAV Toolbox will help offset some of that problem.
 
You will find the instructions for the POI mode of flight starting on page 38 of the expanded manual. The throttle for Orbit Me and POI is actually aileron/roll (right stick left/right). Set the direction of the orbit by moving it in the chosen direction. Subsequent movement in the same direction increases speed and movement in the opposite direction decreases speed and eventually will reverse direction. During the orbit Throttle (left stick up/down) changes elevation and Pitch (right stick forward/back) changes the radius of the orbit.

I suggest going to an open field to practice using POI. You can set the backpack as the center point of your orbit and get used to the controls without crashing into objects. As you change height of the orbit you can adjust the camera tilt and the pan knob can add interesting effects when taking video.
 
I had the best luck with a triple pass of circular orbits at three different elevations. Predefine the path in UAV Toolbox then launch and record with timed images. Pulling the images into Autodesk ReCap Pro was hit and miss. Pix4 did a tremendous job converting the images to a mesh and point cloud for use in Autodesk Revit and Autodesk Infraworks packages.
 
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Richard, so I am having a little trouble finding where the time lapse option is.

Also - did you make the circle WayPoint by Waypoint, or is there a function that lets you do that ?

Scanifly is the system I export my pics too - and really all I need is a good job of the roof. I will of course play more with other apps in the future, but Scanifly is todays project .
 
The time lapse is in the camera settings.

Using POI you can make an orbit at one height and pause the orbit, change to the next height start the next orbit then pause again, etc.
 
Does POI rotate the camera automatically to stay focussed on the center of the circle ? I didn't get that working.
 
Yes it does. The aircraft is actually controlled to point at the center during the POI. It will take practice to get the right orbital distance and speed in combination with the time lapse to produce good overlap frame to frame.
 
I'm not seeing the se tting for time lapse, it's making me a little Crazy. going to page
38 now
 
It is Timelapse 1 photo every second. See page 40.
 
Yeah I saw it - 2 micro controls we could use - throttle on ccc and time lapse photoperiod.
 
Today i've used H480 for making ortomap. I'm using H920 app for waypoints with CGO3+ in timelapse mode and manual settings locked before you switch to H920 app. For path define i use Pix4DCapture (free and working on ST16 without Play Store). Then i plan manually on Waypoints app (waypoints, height, speed), then i save this mission and import it to PC. Waypoints from H920 app are simply JSON data so i manually convert this file to KML (it takes 2-3 minutes and could be done automatic with some programming skills). Next you can load this KML file to QGIS or other software and measure real distance of all mission waypoints. You know speed so it's easy to calculate avarage duration (add 2.5 seconds for each 90 degree turn you make on grid).

This is my test mission, today i've stopped on waypoint 6.
Useful images i took is around 125 but i used only 57 (like 2 seconds interval) JPG's downsized 4x times (down to 1024px).

Screenshot_2020-04-21-20-51-04.png


This is google earth view with KML waypoints loaded (1155m measured with QGIS +120m of elevation)

google_earth_kml.jpg



Here is my ortho photo from WebODM (4x downsized before run due to lack of RAM).
Pretty nice match, you can improve this in QGIS before exporting to GeoTIF.

orto_overlay_google.jpg



Here is max zoom without loosing detail (remember this was 60 meters and input photos were downsized 4x times to 1024px).
You can see me, my dog and H backpack in left corner :)

odm_orthophoto.jpg


Here is Surface model and 3D model, pretty good for 57 pictures with single pass.
For good 3D results you have to double pass area with 90 degree angle so it's basically double the flight time for 3D. Anyway result are great for me!

surface_model.jpg

3d_typhoon_h.jpg


This results keep me going on with the workflow of using H920 waypoint app and H480 drone. I like this semi manual procedure and i'll be testing this features to get perfect workflow for safe use. If you want this fast and easy just buy H520 :)

Please do not try this with your H480 if you don't want to crash it.
 

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