CGO3+ gimbal tilt error

[SamiN]

Hello guys,

This is my first post here and I've been Typhoon H owner just a couple of months and have crashed it twice
Gimbal mount got broken and those securing pins in it. Fixed those and flew couple of times. At some point I noticed that tilting does not work correctly.
Dismantled CGO3+ and checked slip motor wires etc. Did calibration from hidden menu in ST16 many times. No success.
To be accurate, tilting motor runs let's say 20 degrees. I mean when switched to V -position, it turns as it should.
In other positions tilting runs so that it points bit lower than horizontal line.

BTW, I cannot do gimbal calibration fully. It just stops after a couple of seconds. I've also tried rebinding and pressing those reset buttons in camera.

Any help appreciated,

-Sami-

 

[PatR]

Couple things.

In Velocity position the gimbal will aim higher. Velocity is more for high speed flying where the H body will be tilted more. In the upper switch position you would not be able to see straight ahead, which Velocity allows you to do. With the switch in the upper position the gimbal always aims lower. It does that to help avoid putting booms in your shots during maneuvers. So your description of how that part is working has it doing so correctly.

Before digging real deep into problem diagnostics you might consider removing the gimbal mounting bracket from the bottom of the H and re-seating the JST connector that sits underneath it. See if that helps fix the other issues.

Just a note, the camera and gimbal are not tolerant of crashing. Some parts damage easily so take your time in learning your bird. Going all out before you understand it can get expensive.

 

[SamiN]

Couple things.

In Velocity position the gimbal will aim higher. Velocity is more for high speed flying where the H body will be tilted more. In the upper switch position you would not be able to see straight ahead, which Velocity allows you to do. With the switch in the upper position the gimbal always aims lower. It does that to help avoid putting booms in your shots during maneuvers. So your description of how that part is working has it doing so correctly.

Before digging real deep into problem diagnostics you might consider removing the gimbal mounting bracket from the bottom of the H and re-seating the JST connector that sits underneath it. See if that helps fix the other issues.

Just a note, the camera and gimbal are not tolerant of crashing. Some parts damage easily so take your time in learning your bird. Going all out before you understand it can get expensive.

Thanks for reply. I have to learn it hard way

I'm thinking that possibly second crash caused gimbal frame to bend enough to prevent tilt motor to turn it all the way downwards. I can feel some resistance when turning it by hand.

About that gimbal calibration error, when it halts and then if I wait let's say twenty seconds and then push/turn it slightly, it continues calibration for a moment.

Maybe I have to buy new tilt sensor before buying new CGO3+. Those are just quite expensive ones and not easily available here in Finland.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

Couple things.

In Velocity position the gimbal will aim higher. Velocity is more for high speed flying where the H body will be tilted more. In the upper switch position you would not be able to see straight ahead, which Velocity allows you to do. With the switch in the upper position the gimbal always aims lower. It does that to help avoid putting booms in your shots during maneuvers. So your description of how that part is working has it doing so correctly.

Before digging real deep into problem diagnostics you might consider removing the gimbal mounting bracket from the bottom of the H and re-seating the JST connector that sits underneath it. See if that helps fix the other issues.

Just a note, the camera and gimbal are not tolerant of crashing. Some parts damage easily so take your time in learning your bird. Going all out before you understand it can get expensive.

Good Stuff Pat.
I understand exactly what you are saying.
KK

 

[georgero]

If you have resistance in one motor which I suspect is that the calibration will stop at that point where the resistance occurs. After 2 crashes I am sure you have a bent frame and this is why will not tilt all the way. The camera has to move freely with any resistance when is not powered up. I am sure is not the ecoder. If was the encoder on one of the motors the camera it will beep all the time. You have problem with the frame. When you did the controller calibration did you put the slider on half way before you do the calibration?

 

[WTFDproject]

These cameras are very sensitive to frame alignment. If the frame is putting mechanical stress on the motor, you can get this type of behavior. The stress can be "pushing in" on the motor if the frame is not spread wide enough, it could be "pulling out" if the frame is spread too far out, or it could be a "twisting force" if the mount plate is not aligned with the tilt axis of the camera. It will typically move a little, stop, and then continue to move a little more if you give it a small push.
I only speculate that this is your issue. I have not dealt with a camera that was enough out of alignment that you could actually feel it when moving the camera by hand. This suggests the frame is very out of alignment, or that something else is causing the resistance.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

These cameras are very sensitive to frame alignment. If the frame is putting mechanical stress on the motor, you can get this type of behavior. The stress can be "pushing in" on the motor if the frame is not spread wide enough, it could be "pulling out" if the frame is spread too far out, or it could be a "twisting force" if the mount plate is not aligned with the tilt axis of the camera. It will typically move a little, stop, and then continue to move a little more if you give it a small push.
I only speculate that this is your issue. I have not dealt with a camera that was enough out of alignment that you could actually feel it when moving the camera by hand. This suggests the frame is very out of alignment, or that something else is causing the resistance.

Darn good point.
Everything about these Drones are delicate.
Handle with Care at all times.
Keith

 

[Mrgs1]

Hello guys,

This is my first post here and I've been Typhoon H owner just a couple of months and have crashed it twice
Gimbal mount got broken and those securing pins in it. Fixed those and flew couple of times. At some point I noticed that tilting does not work correctly.
Dismantled CGO3+ and checked slip motor wires etc. Did calibration from hidden menu in ST16 many times. No success.
To be accurate, tilting motor runs let's say 20 degrees. I mean when switched to V -position, it turns as it should.
In other positions tilting runs so that it points bit lower than horizontal line.

BTW, I cannot do gimbal calibration fully. It just stops after a couple of seconds. I've also tried rebinding and pressing those reset buttons in camera.

Any help appreciated,

-Sami-

Any chance of a photo or two of the gimbal and arm and what you think is bent. Might give the forum members a better idea of the severity of the damage.

 

[SamiN]

Yes, it's bent. I can see it by eye. Let's see if I can bend it back (without causing more damage)

 

[SamiN]

If you have resistance in one motor which I suspect is that the calibration will stop at that point where the resistance occurs. After 2 crashes I am sure you have a bent frame and this is why will not tilt all the way. The camera has to move freely with any resistance when is not powered up. I am sure is not the ecoder. If was the encoder on one of the motors the camera it will beep all the time. You have problem with the frame. When you did the controller calibration did you put the slider on half way before you do the calibration?

As you said. it's bent. If I detached the sensor, I got the beeps. I did calibration and put it half way. Also checked from channel settings that it works as it should.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

Yes, it's bent. I can see it by eye. Let's see if I can bend it back (without causing more damage)

Nice to get it all sorted out.

 

[SamiN]

Guess what guys, I got it working! Well, it's tilting okay now, but camera points about 45 degrees to left. I'm quite surprised that motor and sensor leads are still all right after so much bending the frame and motor axle. And bending that axle was the key factor for having tilting to work again. I was one click away from buying new CGO3+ when I decided to check it once again.

 

[WTFDproject]

Good Job.
I apparently can't help much for the 45 deg point. I am working on one right how that has the same problem, also after a crash. (literally, "right now".)
I have tried several of the remedies already on the forum, but none have worked for me yet. They may for you. Do a search for "CGo3 point", and some variations, you will find some stuff that DID work for others.
If I figure anything out, I will post it here. And if you find something I missed, I hope you will do the same.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

Guess what guys, I got it working! Well, it's tilting okay now, but camera points about 45 degrees to left. I'm quite surprised that motor and sensor leads are still all right after so much bending the frame and motor axle. And bending that axle was the key factor for having tilting to work again. I was one click away from buying new CGO3+ when I decided to check it once again.

It is so nice when you work hard and things finally come together.
Keith Kuhn

 

[SamiN]

Good Job.
I apparently can't help much for the 45 deg point. I am working on one right how that has the same problem, also after a crash. (literally, "right now".)
I have tried several of the remedies already on the forum, but none have worked for me yet. They may for you. Do a search for "CGo3 point", and some variations, you will find some stuff that DID work for others.
If I figure anything out, I will post it here. And if you find something I missed, I hope you will do the same.

This trick(found from this forum) worked for me: before calibration use pan knob to turn camera to point forward, then start calibration, wait for it to complete, restart and camera points exactly forward. Hopefully you haven't tested this yet

 

[SamiN]

Turned H on. It points to left ?

 

[WTFDproject]

Not having much luck with mine either. Remember mine is not an ordinary issue. The camera is built of parts from various damaged cameras. Most of the parts required at least some repair, including the gimbal board itself. (connectors were pulled off)
With that said, everything on the camera works beautifully, except the yaw pointing left.
I'm currently experimenting with adjusting the position of the sensor magnet. The results have been surprising, and not at all what I expected. Moving the magnet "x" degrees does not move the camera "X" degrees, and it gets worse from there. And I have no idea why. With the magnet returned to normal position, it just goes back to the left pointing condition.
I will, of course, write up anything I found, but so far I have learned nothing not already on the forum. And yes, I had tried the method you mentioned above. It has been reported as working for other members, but did nothing for mine.

 

[SamiN]

Now as you told about that magnet, I remember when I was putting all the pieces together, one screw dropped and sensor magnet got it. If I remember correctly I rotated magnet to get the screw easier out. Maybe this is the reason. Have to try to get it right. Based on your experiments it might be quite difficult

 

[WTFDproject]

If I remember correctly I rotated magnet to get the screw easier out.

The magnet should be very difficult to rotate, so I'm not sure if you meant the magnets up inside the motor. Those move all the time, with the motor.
The round magnet at the bottom of the motor shaft is the one associated with the position sensor. See picture below.

But before you mess with the magnet. try one more "home remedy". With both drone and controller off, point the camera to the rear of the drone. Then start the drone/camera. I have no idea why, but my camera started working correctly after I turned the magnet 180 deg. Simply pointing camera backwards might simulate whatever effect was created by reversing the magnet.
(If you actually reverse the magnet, as I did, you will also have to reverse the top motor mount to get the camera back to normal.)

This is the magnet:

 

[SamiN]

Finally got working and pointing forward. After changing slip ring cable(it was bit peeled) I gave up and bought a new camera (used-one). Price was decent 220€.