So i had a flyaway and luckily i recovered the H. Unfortunately i had to repair 3 broken arms, need a new set of props, and had to replace CGO3+ slip ring. Put the new slip ring in and now the camera automatically turns around backwards. I also can not pan or tilt the camera. Any ideas what to look for or check?
CGO3+ repair
- Thread starter Vinny2gunz
- Start date
When you replaced the slip ring, did you remove the 4 large black screws and the lower mount? If so, it is common to get them back in the wrong place, since there are no markings. The result is facing either backwards, 90 deg left, or 90 deg right.
The lack of pan/tilt normally means either the white or green (or both) wires are not making a complete circuit. Both wires have to be installed correctly for either pan or tilt to work. That includes the little spring contacts on the mount plate. If the little spring contact for either green or white wires is jammed up into the block, as often happens in a crash, you will not have a circuit. Same result. Either not making contact, Neither works.
You may want to review the following attachments in "Way To Fix Drones project" and compare to your camera:
Attachment 17 (CGo3+ Mount Alignment Notes)
Attachment 18 (CGo3+ Stuck Mount Contacts)
Attachment 20 (CGo3+ Slip Ring Wire Color)
Attachment 21 (CGo3+ Slip Ring Replacement)
Thank you. I fixed the orientation. Now to check the wires. I’ll double check my solder joints.
Had to re-solder white wire but still no dice. Continuity between all contacts and plug but no tilt or pan.
1.) I assume you already verified the wire pinout at the gimbal board end is in the correct order?
2.) Verify the ST16 is correctly bound to the DRONE. (On screen video bypasses the drone as the 5.8 video signal, but pan and tilt go THROUGH the drone as part of the 2.4 control signal.)
3.) Remove the top shell and check continuity all the way from the mainboard to the gimbal board. Refer to Attachment 43 (Typhoon H / CG03+ Continuity) of the document above.
1. yes pinout is correct per pictures prior to disassembly and per guide listed.
2. motors start and can start/stop recording from st16.
Did a rebind to camera and drone after repairs
3. I will trace continuity tomorrow.
I really appreciate the help. Love this community.
And the issue was the plug from the drone into the camera mount was not fully inserted. Locked it in and everything is back to normal. Thanks again guys for all the help and the wonderful guides that everyone has posted. Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.
I have the same issue. No tilt no roll after crash repair.
I'm not sure what to check next?
On power up, the gimbal comes on.
All 3 axis are stabilized.
Camera scene displays on the ST16.
The gimbal LED begins flashing red-white-red-white for 17 cycles.
Then just flashes white.
I get the same behavior from this gimbal on my known good H480.
I'm not sure what to check next?
On power up, the gimbal comes on.
All 3 axis are stabilized.
Camera scene displays on the ST16.
The gimbal LED begins flashing red-white-red-white for 17 cycles.
Then just flashes white.
I get the same behavior from this gimbal on my known good H480.
OK. We have to get on the same page first, so let's start with these:
1.) No tilt no roll after crash repair. Do you mean No tilt no YAW?
2.) The gimbal LED begins flashing. The gimbal LED cannot be seen without having the unit partially disassembled. Do you mean the Camera LED near the camera lens?
3.) begins flashing red-white-red-white for 17 cycles. There should be no white after the first red shows up. IF you mean green, then what you describe matches the normal pattern seen when there is no SD card in the camera. Is it possible the light you see is actually green?
Sorry, I was a little sloppy with my post.
1) I meant to say no tilt, no pan, no record.
2) Yes - the camera LED.
3) It could be a bright green. I inserted a different TF cand - it still flashes and the ST16 shows "Camera SD card not detected" when taking a photo.
So, is it FUBAR or maybe just a bad PCB?
Update 12:30 EDT 3/17: I just discovered the other end of the white PWM wire has since broken.
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Fixing the white wire will probably get the pan and tilt back. Remember the green wire also has to be intact for pan and tilt.
Be sure the SD card is correctly formatted. SD card problems do not usually come from a crash unless the camera ball is showing some signs of physical damage. Does the card go in and out correctly?
Be sure the SD card is correctly formatted. SD card problems do not usually come from a crash unless the camera ball is showing some signs of physical damage. Does the card go in and out correctly?
Thanks for your help.
The card slot is latching normally.
Then the H landed on the camera, it rolled & skidded the camera across the concrete before it H hit the stone column.
The White & green slip ring wires pulled off the contact shoe solder pads and I soldered them back.
I was amazed that if booted and the down link to the ST16 was clear & level.
I now see where the top of the slip ring cylinder rammed the mount and pinched the wires.
The white wire broke off too short to splice, so the slip ring assembly is now trash.
I'm considering spending the $22 for a new slip ring.
The card slot is latching normally.
Then the H landed on the camera, it rolled & skidded the camera across the concrete before it H hit the stone column.
The White & green slip ring wires pulled off the contact shoe solder pads and I soldered them back.
I was amazed that if booted and the down link to the ST16 was clear & level.
I now see where the top of the slip ring cylinder rammed the mount and pinched the wires.
The white wire broke off too short to splice, so the slip ring assembly is now trash.
I'm considering spending the $22 for a new slip ring.
They aren't all that hard to change out. You can refer to the guide mentioned in Post #2 above.
Take another look at the slip ring when you get it out. The metal casing slides down fairly easily. You might be able to chip away enough of the white epoxy to get a good solder joint on the one you have. You can grind a little notch out of the case in the area of the wires to avoid a short.
The SD slot is part of the WiFi board. Worse case, you just have to replace the WiFi board, which is not difficult. But I would at least try blowing it out with air, then maybe a little contact cleaner sprayed on the card itself (not into the holder), and work the card in and out a few times. Again, changing the WiFi board is not real hard, but if you can get lucky with an "easy way", so much the better.
Take another look at the slip ring when you get it out. The metal casing slides down fairly easily. You might be able to chip away enough of the white epoxy to get a good solder joint on the one you have. You can grind a little notch out of the case in the area of the wires to avoid a short.
The SD slot is part of the WiFi board. Worse case, you just have to replace the WiFi board, which is not difficult. But I would at least try blowing it out with air, then maybe a little contact cleaner sprayed on the card itself (not into the holder), and work the card in and out a few times. Again, changing the WiFi board is not real hard, but if you can get lucky with an "easy way", so much the better.
Thanks again for your help.
Next month I'll have some budget room.
In the meantime Typhoon H #3 carries the load while #2 waits on my repairs.
(#1's parts got #2 air worthy)
-Bill
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