Crash with Typhoon H

[Peter b]

I finally crashed an h for the first time. It's the 1st one i bought. No real sense. 2 arms broken. How did it happen? I have no idea. I set it up in the park (this was awhile back). After the usual check. 16 satellites GPS ready. Props on tight , battery fully charged rc charged, voltage full. It starts and it came after me as soon as it lifted off the ground. Hit a twig not a branch. Having it come after me means get the arms fixed.

 

[DoomMeister]

You most likely had it in Smart Mode.

Please upload the FlightLog using the instructions to do so that are in the https://yuneecpilots.com/attachments/wtfdproject-rev-67-pdf.23531/

 

[Murray Martz]

I finally crashed an h for the first time. It's the 1st one i bought. No real sense. 2 arms broken. How did it happen? I have no idea. I set it up in the park (this was awhile back). After the usual check. 16 satellites GPS ready. Props on tight , battery fully charged rc charged, voltage full. It starts and it came after me as soon as it lifted off the ground. Hit a twig not a branch. Having it come after me means get the arms fixed.

As @DoomMeister indicated, smart mode. That was the cause of my first crash of my H.

 

[ArtCox]

You most likely had it in Smart Mode.

Please upload the FlightLog using the instructions to do so that are in the https://yuneecpilots.com/attachments/wtfdproject-rev-67-pdf.23531/

Hey Doom, Wouldn't the H move away from the controller in Smart Mode? Or even take off due to being inside the 25 ft. circle?

 

[DoomMeister]

When it is inside the circle you never know where it will go. You can still arm the motors and takeoff, but as soon as it leaves the ground it will move to exit the circle. Depending on the GPS for both aircraft and controller it is a toss up as to what direction it will move in. That is why the manual says to be at least 30 feet from the aircraft when launching.

All TH pilots should try the Smart mode just to see how the aircraft reacts when in that mode. They should also use it near the safe circle and try to fly it into the circle to see the reaction of the aircraft in those circumstances. It can be easy to flip into Smart mode especially when it is cold out (desensitized fingers or wearing gloves).

 

[Yuneec Skins]

Check your Hardware Monitor, may be a Gimbal Pot.....see it all the time, sounds like an easy fix.....

 

[DoomMeister]

Check your Hardware Monitor, may be a Gimbal Pot.....see it all the time, sounds like an easy fix.....

That is why the Hardware monitor should be in everyone’s preflight checklist for at least the first flight of the day.

 

[Peter b]

It's more than possible i left it in smart mode and there is no obs. Yeah that happened once on another one when it landed it started break dancing but no harm. Yes the real sense was on.

 

[Peter b]

Thanks

That is why the Hardware monitor should be in everyone’s preflight checklist for at least the first flight of the day.

 

[DoomMeister]

Peter,

Just want you to know I added to @Yuneec Skins post, because checking the hardware monitor saved me from a potentially disastrous flight just recently.

I had flown in an area I have flown a couple of times before just a little while before sunset. I had flown earlier that day without issue, but still checked the hardware monitor. The right stick was giving a little trouble in the aileron (left/right) direction. A little extra stirring seemed to get rid of the sluggish response and stopping just off center. The last flight it was quite squirrelly on landing and kept trying to drift to the right.
When I returned home I fired up the ST16 and went into the Hardware Monitor and found that the right stick had gotten worse. Vigorous stirring would help for just a minute or so then the bad symptoms would come right back.
At this point I decided to open the ST16 and remove the gimbals to be able to clean the potentiometers without getting contact cleaner everywhere.
The arrow points to a small circular opening in the potentiometers. That is where you want to aim the contact cleaner using the plastic tube on the spray nozzle. This gets the cleaner inside the pot so it will help get rid of the oxidation. Use the stick to exercise that pot before the cleaner evaporates. I give each pot this treatment three times then reinstall them in the controller. Cleaning them in this manner seems to ward off the dirty pot syndrome for 3 months or more.

 

[Peter b]

Wow, that's all great stuff to know. I have 3 of the st.16 so i need to pay attention as to how long between flights. I try to fly all of them but and now i'm doing a lot of neighborhood pans with the q from my front yard. Tomorrow the h is on. 62 degrees f.

 

[25Lives]

Thanks @DoomMeister I was wondering if that was a fault or a cleaning point.. Having big issues with my T 480 or ST16 (But I guess thats what winter is for) I'm quite sure I will have a few questions for you and the other Yuneec Masters soon.

 

[Vaklin]

Check for a gap between the pot PCB and the plastic too.


And as I mentioned in some other threads "Remove the RealSense, save the copter!"

 

[DoomMeister]

Check for a gap between the pot PCB and the plastic too.
View attachment 24027

And as I mentioned in some other threads "Remove the RealSense, save the copter!"

I do get to where the shaft enters the pot, but it is at an acute angle and doesn’t penetrate as well as I would like. The biggest thing is removing the gimbals so the pots can be cleaned without getting on other parts of the ST16. I also carefully remove/replace the connectors a few times to help remove oxidation on them also (must be done with utmost care, as they are easily damaged).

 

[Peter b]

Lol i check every time now that it's off! I know it works on one of them because i tried nervously twice which i mentioned some time ago. I have 2 wands and have never even tried one of them because i don't see the point other than it might work unless the guy on the bike wants it.

Check for a gap between the pot PCB and the plastic too.
View attachment 24027

And as I mentioned in some other threads "Remove the RealSense, save the copter!"

 

[Vaklin]

Turned off and physically removed are quite different states. When the RealSense is connected to the copter, it does something, doesn't matter the OBS switch position. Unfortunately, nothing positive I got from the seeming assistance of RealSense, only lower speeds, sluggish command response, and very difficult landing.

 

[Peter b]

If you read the first intro i made on the thread i said this h and i have 3 has no real sense. The one that i have flown the most has it and I have had zero problems. It ain't broke yet so i will trust it until it chases after me like a jealous husband.

 

[Peter b]

I am trying the pots suggestions first and hopefully that will cure the situation.

 

[Kerocdad]

I finally crashed an h for the first time. It's the 1st one i bought. No real sense. 2 arms broken. How did it happen? I have no idea. I set it up in the park (this was awhile back). After the usual check. 16 satellites GPS ready. Props on tight , battery fully charged rc charged, voltage full. It starts and it came after me as soon as it lifted off the ground. Hit a twig not a branch. Having it come after me means get the arms fixed.

I had same problems some years ago. My typhoon H was inspecting en metal facade and at once the drone took its own route and crashed against the facade. Now i know that the sattelite signals were deflecting against the metall facade causing the positions problems.
Tomorrow I ll get the new 520 E which ( so they promised me) will not have that structural behavior.
Greetings from Holland
Jan Schinkel