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Good morning group.. I have a question about still shots. I cannot seem to get a sharp one. Whats the standard iso everyone is using?

Here is my latest H masterpiece LOL

YUN00010.jpg
 
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What's the best iso to use for a photo ? , like any other camera I would say the lowest possible.
As the iso increases so will the noise, but with a normal camera there is 3 factors , shutter speed , f stop for ( depth of field ) and iso.
With it having a fixed f stop I guess the only variables you can play with are iso and shutter speed.
 
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What's the best iso to use for a photo ? , like any other camera I would say the lowest possible.
As the iso increases so will the noise, but with a normal camera there is 3 factors , shutter speed , f stop for ( depth of field ) and iso.
With it having a fixed f stop I guess the only variables you can play with are iso and shutter speed.[/QUOTE

I didn't know I could change the shutter speed, Ill have to research that (found it!) LOL

I changed the iso which should change things I had it at 100 but with a moving drone that may not be high enough, thanks for the reply
 
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100 is normally the base iso , so you may not be able to go any lower than that.
ISO and shutter speed are linked , if you double one you half the other .

So I guess the answer to your question is 100 .
 
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What's the best iso to use for a photo ? , like any other camera I would say the lowest possible.
As the iso increases so will the noise, but with a normal camera there is 3 factors , shutter speed , f stop for ( depth of field ) and iso.
With it having a fixed f stop I guess the only variables you can play with are iso and shutter speed.
Correct. Add ND filters to that list. I pretty much just leave an ND4 on the camera all the time unless planning to shoot during low light.
 
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Brian,
You obviously did not read the manual.
There is a warning on the last page to apply a heavy coat of anti-smile cream BEFORE each and every flight.
 
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Correct. Add ND filters to that list.
Yeah I have them on my list for next month, I see that setting the iso manually and turning off the st16 does not save it, it defaults to 100 I guess Ill leave it there for now..
 
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Brian,
You obviously did not read the manual.
There is a warning on the last page to apply a heavy coat of anti-smile cream BEFORE each and every flight.
Hey, I did to read the manual, well some of it, okay okay , I skimmed it alright! ;) I'm thinking I don't need any help in the Anti smile dept LOL
 
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Yeah I have them on my list for next month, I see that setting the iso manually and turning off the st16 does not save it, it defaults to 100 I guess Ill leave it there for now..
100 is the lowest and best iso to use ... But like i said iso is linked the shutter speed so in low light you have to think which is you problem , camera shake due to slow shutter speed or high iso which gives you noise / grain .
 
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Yeah I have them on my list for next month, I see that setting the iso manually and turning off the st16 does not save it, it defaults to 100 I guess Ill leave it there for now..
haha I have a sticker on mt ST16 that reads CAMERA SETTINGS! for this very reason. Just got tired of incidentally trying to get good pix in video (default) mode.....
 
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This may not work for everyone but something I like to do is set the H up high enough, when possible, to turn the camera on to get a feel for what camera settings would make a good starting point for the day. Very little battery is used if the motors have not been armed. Making a note of those settings I launch and pan the area once to see what the initial settings look like and adjust from there. That's also when WB and EV are set and locked for the rest of the flight. When using an ND filter EV does not seem to need adjusted as much. If I'm really on the ball that day I make a note of the settings used in a small note book for later reference. That part is more important when shooting stills since I like to bracket exposures and select the best ones but it's nice to know what worked best for a given day, especially if notes about conditions were recorded too.

Yea, I know, complicated and too much like work...
 
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This may not work for everyone but something I like to do is set the H up high enough, when possible, to turn the camera on to get a feel for what camera settings would make a good starting point for the day. Very little battery is used if the motors have not been armed. Making a note of those settings I launch and pan the area once to see what the initial settings look like and adjust from there. That's also when WB and EV are set and locked for the rest of the flight. When using an ND filter EV does not seem to need adjusted as much. If I'm really on the ball that day I make a note of the settings used in a small note book for later reference. That part is more important when shooting stills since I like to bracket exposures and select the best ones but it's nice to know what worked best for a given day, especially if notes about conditions were recorded too.

Yea, I know, complicated and too much like work...
No too much work if you want it right :)
 

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About low light photos and the H. I did a shoot a couple of weeks ago where it was necessary to slow the shutter speed waaaay down to get the light close to right. Unfortunately the subject matter was always moving (equestrian dressage) so all the stills ended up badly blurred. Did some night shots as well but again the subject matter had a lot of localized motion and blurred the images. Before giving up I tried shooting video of the same stuff and found those came out much better so I pulled screen grabs from the video, which ended up saving the day. They don't enlarge well but for how they were to be used work fine.

YUN00228_2.jpg Screen Grab_2.png
 
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View attachment 2469 View attachment 2470 Unfortunately the subject matter was always moving (equestrian dressage) so all the stills ended up badly blurred. Did some night shots as well but again the subject matter had a lot of localized motion and blurred the images.
View attachment 2469 View attachment 2470
You have made my point !!!!

That is when you need to increase the iso to increase shutter speed to stop it from been blurred.
But increasing the iso , increases the noise , so like any photography it's a matter of trade offs.
 

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Yep, and knowing how the imagery is to be later used to qualify how you can go about shooting them.
 

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