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Gimbal buzz/vibration fix

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My TH+ worked perfectly using build 784 which is what I installed as per manual upon buying TH+. 784 was the latest build at the time. After putting the TH+ away for a couple months due to working so much and not having time; I then got out the TH+ and the gimble had developed the so called buzz when moving the camera to a more vertical position (anything from about 30% through full up). If I continued to pan further upward, buzz would worsen with the result that camera would shake violently and fall limp with camera (still useable ) but with no control of gimble. Updated build to 829 (did not help) sent off for repair to KAV, they replaced camera and gimble. Gimble still buzzed with KAV fix so I began experimenting with a fix. Will post photos later this evening when I have time as I am still at work. This fix has worked for me flawlessly, hope it works for others. Would have posted fix sooner (been using for 3 or so months) but have been too busy.

These are pics of the fix. I used scotch tape, a quarter, and open cell foam trimmed to diameter of quarter. The tape should be applied (applying some compression of foam) so as to allow movement of the quarter about the vertical axis of the gimbal. The idea here is to dampen the oscillation of the gimbal about its vertical axis thus illuminating the oscillation/buzz. You may need to experiment with the amount of compression (regarding the foam). Hope this helps.
 

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Ty Pilot

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Strange that putting weight on the back of the gimbal, helps camera tilt having nothing to do with the weight of the camera but if it works then thats all that matters. Some who have had the problem have had some success with weights but it did not always work. Will be interesting to hear if it comes back on yours.
 

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Strange that putting weight on the back of the gimbal, helps camera tilt having nothing to do with the weight of the camera but if it works then thats all that matters. Some who have had the problem have had some success with weights but it did not always work. Will be interesting to hear if it comes back on yours.
[Ed: Please see my follow-up post where I confess I was thinking "camera" not "gimbal" when I submitted the following post.]

Isn’t it all about balance of the camera, rather than helping the tilt operation, when we’re taking about counterweights?

We’ve heard others trying to help with the balance using the same technique.

When I first read this post, seeing the length of inactivity of the craft and the camera, the first question to come to mind is: how was the camera stored?

Was it still on the craft sans camera lock? In other words, did the dampers have an opportunity to stretch?

One fix, with varying success, has been to replace the dampers. Even using the CGO3+ style on C23 and E50 cameras has been reported with some success.

More options, anyway.

Jeff
 
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Strange that putting weight on the back of the gimbal, helps camera tilt having nothing to do with the weight of the camera but if it works then thats all that matters. Some who have had the problem have had some success with weights but it did not always work. Will be interesting to hear if it comes back on yours.
My TH+ was returned after being repaired by KAV and had the same issue even though the camera and gimble had been replaced. So I made observations and experimented with the result being this fix. It has worked flawlessly sense and if I remove the fix, the gimble issues return. The issue is with the gimble itself and (in my case) unrelated to the dampers (which are, by the way, in great shape).
 
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Isn’t it all about balance of the camera, rather than helping the tilt operation, when we’re taking about counterweights?

We’ve heard others trying to help with the balance using the same technique.

When I first read this post, seeing the length of inactivity of the craft and the camera, the first question to come to mind is: how was the camera stored?

Was it still on the craft sans camera lock? In other words, did the dampers have an opportunity to stretch?

One fix, with varying success, has been to replace the dampers. Even using the CGO3+ style on C23 and E50 cameras has been reported with some success.

More options, anyway.

Jeff
Camera was on the TH+ stored in it's backpack/case with desicant (for water absorbtion) in my office.
My TH+ was returned after being repaired by KAV and had the same issue even though the camera and gimble had been replaced. So I made observations and experimented with the result being this fix. It has worked flawlessly sense and if I remove the fix, the gimble issues return. The issue is with the gimble itself and (in my case) unrelated to the dampers (which are, by the way, in great shape).
 
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Hope this fix is a help for folks. Will be interesting to see if this is the case. Time will tell. Thanks for replies.
 

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Camera was on the TH+ stored in it's backpack/case with desicant (for water absorbtion) in my office.
My TH+ was returned after being repaired by KAV and had the same issue even though the camera and gimble had been replaced. So I made observations and experimented with the result being this fix. It has worked flawlessly sense and if I remove the fix, the gimble issues return. The issue is with the gimble itself and (in my case) unrelated to the dampers (which are, by the way, in great shape).
@Avgjoe,

After further review, I now can see what you are talking about. I was not seeing the placement of your counterweight, being on the gimbal bracket rather than the camera itself.

My comments were directed toward placement of a counterweight on the back of the camera itself, per my response to what @Ty Pilot was stating.

I stand by my reply, but rephrase it to pertain to the balance, or lack thereof, for the camera.

As for adding weight to the gimbal itself, hopefully this is a reliable fix. One thought comes to mind, at the risk of being off base again: I wonder if it is the ever so slight change in the angle at which the gimbal now hangs from the dampers, or... it is the change in mass that changes any vibration harmonics that could be at place.

The physical engineers can weigh in on this one!

Jeff
 
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@Avgjoe,

After further review, I now can see what you are talking about. I was not seeing the placement of your counterweight, being on the gimbal bracket rather than the camera itself.

My comments were directed toward placement of a counterweight on the back of the camera itself, per my response to what @Ty Pilot was stating.

I stand by my reply, but rephrase it to pertain to the balance, or lack thereof, for the camera.

As for adding weight to the gimbal itself, hopefully this is a reliable fix. One thought comes to mind, at the risk of being off base again: I wonder if it is the ever so slight change in the angle at which the gimbal now hangs from the dampers, or... it is the change in mass that changes any vibration harmonics that could be at place.

The physical engineers can weigh in on this one!

Jeff
Yes, I welcome any responses regarding fix. My field of study is mathematics/physics. The dampening effect of oscillation of gimble about it's vertical axis (gimble struggling to center itself as per instruction being received from the transmitter) is what is achieved by this fix. As mentioned earlier, if I remove the fix the issue/oscillation returns.
 

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Jeff,

I have a handheld 3 axis gimbal that can take either my point and shoot Lumix or a larger DSLR and depending on which I use I have to re-balance all 3 axis's so I am very familiar with the different axis each needing to have their assigned axis balanced.

In the OP's statement he indicated that the struggling axis was the one for Tilt or "X" axis, putting weight on the back of the gimbal (as he shows) is affecting the "Z" axis or Pan. If it is the motors that control only the tilt are having problems, adding weight anywhere except directly to the front or back of the camera itself does not affect or change their ability to do so.

Likewise if it were the roll axis "Y" (the one that keeps the camera level) were to have trouble, then the weight would still be applied to the camera (or side of the gimbal arm) and this weight (assuming the tilt axis is balanced) would need to be directly in line with Y axis at the pivot point.

And as you can see there is a correlation to the process and in this case you work from the camera back to accomplish balance, First balance the X then the Y and finally the Z. This is why I was a little miffed at how he achieved a fix such as he did.
 
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One thing we have seen for sure is that this is NOT firmware related. @DCH recently (after months of trying to find a cure - he even used weights - no joy) was loaned a different C23. Once connected - the problem disappeared, using the same firmware. He and I both suspect this is due to slight differences in the manufacturing or possible materials or what ever.

The fact remains: If you hang a camera and gimbal such as the C23 on a flat plane such as it is mounted under the Typhoon H Plus, when unpowered, each axis of the gimbal will naturally display the weighted condition. If the camera tilts down (X axis) , even after leveling and letting go, it is nose heavy to that axis. Likewise if it is constantly leaning to one side or the other, even after righting and letting go then the Y axis needs and nothing you do to the X axis will affect the Y axis UNLESS - you place that weight off of the center of that axis.

What I have seen with both of my Typhoons, first the 480 and later the Plus is that the motors are very near the limit of their capability, this is more so with the 480. Back when I designed a sunshield for the CG03, I could get it to balance with a little weight in the right place but found that even moderate flight loads (wind and drag) would easily overcome the motors - sometimes just hovering and the downward wind blast would be too much and the camera would go limp and then try to recenter and the repeat. This is why I never made those sunshades.

When I got my plus the first thing I noticed is that my C23 had (and still has) a downward lean when unpowered, the other axis were fine. I never once had a problem (knocking on wood) so I never changed a thing.
 
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Jeff,

I have a handheld 3 axis gimbal that can take either my point and shoot Lumix or a larger DSLR and depending on which I use I have to re-balance all 3 axis's so I am very familiar with the different axis each needing to have their assigned axis balanced.

In the OP's statement he indicated that the struggling axis was the one for Tilt or "X" axis, putting weight on the back of the gimbal (as he shows) is affecting the "Z" axis or Pan. If it is the motors that control only the tilt are having problems, adding weight anywhere except directly to the front or back of the camera itself does not affect or change their ability to do so.

Likewise if it were the roll axis "Y" (the one that keeps the camera level) were to have trouble, then the weight would still be applied to the camera (or side of the gimbal arm) and this weight (assuming the tilt axis is balanced) would need to be directly in line with Y axis at the pivot point.

And as you can see there is a correlation to the process and in this case you work from the camera back to accomplish balance, First balance the X then the Y and finally the Z. This is why I was a little miffed at how he achieved a fix such as he did.
I should have noted that camera balance had no affect on described issue either before or after KAV. Also, camera balance (within reasonable parameters) is a non issue after described fix.
 
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I don't have access to a C23/E90 with the vibration, so I have to ask. Has anyone listened closely enough to the vibration to identify which motor or component is generating it? Or do different cameras exhibit the problem on different, or even multiple, motors/components.
The reason I am curious is the Yaw motor, Roll motor or Gimbal Board, (Gimbal Board is located inside the rear arm of these cameras). If any of these is the source of the vibration, and is setting up a harmonic with the rear arm, then placement of some dampening material and a little weight on the arm could logically be seen as adsorbing the vibration, or even changing a problematic harmonic relation.

If a camera is experiencing an issue generated from the pitch motor or components within the camera itself, the above cure would not likely relieve the issue for that camera. It doesn't mean the idea doesn't work, it just means you're fixing the wrong problem. I assume a similar system could be developed for those cameras.
 
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DCH

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I discovered this fix about a year ago and posted this here on the forum: 2Cent Solution to C23 Gimbal Buzz!
I used pennies at the time, but it is a viable fix that works and I use it to this day. While experimenting, I discovered that it was the azimuth motor that was buzzing, and that it didn't matter where the weight was on the gimbal, so I put the weight under the gimbal slip ring, above the camera, centered on the gimbal pivot. This reduces the weight leverage of the arm exerted on the slip-ring bearing, and gave it a more streamlined appearance.

Sorry about the length, I was about to post this as a new thread on C23 Gimbal buzz when I saw this post, there is a lot to explain, it should clarify the issue somewhat, and it may help someone like @WTFproject track down a cause and cure.

I am almost ready to abandon the idea that firmware is the problem or the fix, but there still could be a chance it effects it a little. It seems that the buzz is an issue with individual gimbals as I have suspected for quite sometime. For whatever specific reason we still do not know. It remains possible that firmware tweaks might resolve it, however I am skeptical and think that gimbals with buzz issues need to be calibrated/re-calibrated on an individual basis. Unfortunate that the H Plus app did away with gimbal calibration.

I have just tested and proven this with a substitute C23 camera. First let me thank @Steve Carr, possibly the most generous person I have met on the forum, for giving me a C23 to test. Now Steve may very likely be under the impression it is on loan to me, but anyone who knows me can tell you what a procrastinator I am, and the likelihood of me ever getting around to sending it back are extremely rare, ...pigs will already be fling by then!!

Before testing I put both cameras and the aircraft outside on the porch for a couple of hours to soak to an ambient temp of 45°, to insure maximum potential for buzz -which experience has shown me the buzz is always worse when things are cold. I powered mine on first, and believe it or not, the buzz was heard all the way down in Florida by @Ty Pilot, who told me over the phone after the test that he heard it clear down there! Okay at this point I should mention that by coincidence Ty had just called me for a chat as I was about to perform the test, so he hung on the phone, nervously biting his fingernails nails for the moment of truth. Still the buzz was quite loud, just ask Ty who had no problem hearing it over the speaker phone 3,000 miles away!

Next I mounted the C23 that Steve so graciously gave to me and nothing, not even crickets! Completely silent save for the whisper of the fan. I ran it thru all of its range of motion and still nothing. Even after mounting my aftermarket filter and counter weight there was still no buzz. My new C23 (from my new best friend) works perfectly on my Plus. Thanks Steve!:cool:

@WTFDproject: I can only speak for my gimbal, but I strongly suspect the issue is the horizontal motor in all the problem units. With a delicate touch I can feel the the vibration is coming from this motor. Also if I apply slight side force to give it something to push back against the buzz stops. And even though I can make buzz come and go with the tilt control at certain positions like the OP noted, the buzz always goes away when side force or down force/weight is exerted/added to the assembly, even if it's the bottom of the camera. It doesn't care if it's out on the back of the arm like the OP's photos, or stuck right under the slip-ring pivot. It can even be the combined weight of a filter and counterweight. it's a matter of total weight. With enough added weight my gimbal does not buzz at all. With no extra weight the buzz is so bad it nearly becomes a chatter. Since weights appear to be a permanent fixture on my C23, I have used flattened led that I shaped to fit and installed with 3M 2-sided mounting tape.

@NorWiscPilot brought up camera balance. Though very important, it is not the cause of buzz. I stacked filters and a lens cap on the good camera from Steve, with no counter weight, and found it will tolerate an imbalance clear to the point of not physically being able to correct it, with no buzzing. It will give up and go limp first.

Photos show my filter counterweight and my center gimbal weight. The combo of the filter and two weights has stopped my gimbal from buzzing.
Center weight.jpg Counter-weight.jpg
 

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I discovered this fix about a year ago and posted this here on the forum: 2Cent Solution to C23 Gimbal Buzz!
I used pennies at the time, but it is a viable fix that works and I use it to this day. While experimenting, I discovered that it was the azimuth motor that was buzzing, and that it didn't matter where the weight was on the gimbal, so I put the weight under the gimbal slip ring, above the camera, centered on the gimbal pivot. This reduces the weight leverage of the arm exerted on the slip-ring bearing, and gave it a more streamlined appearance.

Sorry about the length, I was about to post this as a new thread on C23 Gimbal buzz when I saw this post, there is a lot to explain, it should clarify the issue somewhat, and it may help someone like @WTFproject track down a cause and cure.

I am almost ready to abandon the idea that firmware is the problem or the fix, but there still could be a chance it effects it a little. It seems that the buzz is an issue with individual gimbals as I have suspected for quite sometime. For whatever specific reason we still do not know. It remains possible that firmware tweaks might resolve it, however I am skeptical and think that gimbals with buzz issues need to be calibrated/re-calibrated on an individual basis. Unfortunate that the H Plus app did away with gimbal calibration.

I have just tested and proven this with a substitute C23 camera. First let me thank @Steve Carr, possibly the most generous person I have met on the forum, for giving me a C23 to test. Now Steve may very likely be under the impression it is on loan to me, but anyone who knows me can tell you what a procrastinator I am, and the likelihood of me ever getting around to sending it back are extremely rare, ...pigs will already be fling by then!!

Before testing I put both cameras and the aircraft outside on the porch for a couple of hours to soak to an ambient temp of 45°, to insure maximum potential for buzz -which experience has shown me the buzz is always worse when things are cold. I powered mine on first, and believe it or not, the buzz was heard all the way down in Florida by @Ty Pilot, who told me over the phone after the test that he heard it clear down there! Okay at this point I should mention that by coincidence Ty had just called me for a chat as I was about to perform the test, so he hung on the phone, nervously biting his fingernails nails for the moment of truth. Still the buzz was quite loud, just ask Ty who had no problem hearing it over the speaker phone 3,000 miles away!

Next I mounted the C23 that Steve so graciously gave to me and nothing, not even crickets! Completely silent save for the whisper of the fan. I ran it thru all of its range of motion and still nothing. Even after mounting my aftermarket filter and counter weight there was still no buzz. My new C23 (from my new best friend) works perfectly on my Plus. Thanks Steve!:cool:

@WTFDproject: I can only speak for my gimbal, but I strongly suspect the issue is the horizontal motor in all the problem units. With a delicate touch I can feel the the vibration is coming from this motor. Also if I apply slight side force to give it something to push back against the buzz stops. And even though I can make buzz come and go with the tilt control at certain positions like the OP noted, the buzz always goes away when side force or down force/weight is exerted/added to the assembly, even if it's the bottom of the camera. It doesn't care if it's out on the back of the arm like the OP's photos, or stuck right under the slip-ring pivot. It can even be the combined weight of a filter and counterweight. it's a matter of total weight. With enough added weight my gimbal does not buzz at all. With no extra weight the buzz is so bad it nearly becomes a chatter. Since weights appear to be a permanent fixture on my C23, I have used flattened led that I shaped to fit and installed with 3M 2-sided mounting tape.

@NorWiscPilot brought up camera balance. Though very important, it is not the cause of buzz. I stacked filters and a lens cap on the good camera from Steve, with no counter weight, and found it will tolerate an imbalance clear to the point of not physically being able to correct it, with no buzzing. It will give up and go limp first.

Photos show my filter counterweight and my center gimbal weight. The combo of the filter and two weights has stopped my gimbal from buzzing.
View attachment 20358 View attachment 20359
Wait til he sends you the rental bill for that C23!😁
 
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I discovered this fix about a year ago and posted this here on the forum: 2Cent Solution to C23 Gimbal Buzz!
I used pennies at the time, but it is a viable fix that works and I use it to this day. While experimenting, I discovered that it was the azimuth motor that was buzzing, and that it didn't matter where the weight was on the gimbal, so I put the weight under the gimbal slip ring, above the camera, centered on the gimbal pivot. This reduces the weight leverage of the arm exerted on the slip-ring bearing, and gave it a more streamlined appearance.

Sorry about the length, I was about to post this as a new thread on C23 Gimbal buzz when I saw this post, there is a lot to explain, it should clarify the issue somewhat, and it may help someone like @WTFproject track down a cause and cure.

I am almost ready to abandon the idea that firmware is the problem or the fix, but there still could be a chance it effects it a little. It seems that the buzz is an issue with individual gimbals as I have suspected for quite sometime. For whatever specific reason we still do not know. It remains possible that firmware tweaks might resolve it, however I am skeptical and think that gimbals with buzz issues need to be calibrated/re-calibrated on an individual basis. Unfortunate that the H Plus app did away with gimbal calibration.

I have just tested and proven this with a substitute C23 camera. First let me thank @Steve Carr, possibly the most generous person I have met on the forum, for giving me a C23 to test. Now Steve may very likely be under the impression it is on loan to me, but anyone who knows me can tell you what a procrastinator I am, and the likelihood of me ever getting around to sending it back are extremely rare, ...pigs will already be fling by then!!

Before testing I put both cameras and the aircraft outside on the porch for a couple of hours to soak to an ambient temp of 45°, to insure maximum potential for buzz -which experience has shown me the buzz is always worse when things are cold. I powered mine on first, and believe it or not, the buzz was heard all the way down in Florida by @Ty Pilot, who told me over the phone after the test that he heard it clear down there! Okay at this point I should mention that by coincidence Ty had just called me for a chat as I was about to perform the test, so he hung on the phone, nervously biting his fingernails nails for the moment of truth. Still the buzz was quite loud, just ask Ty who had no problem hearing it over the speaker phone 3,000 miles away!

Next I mounted the C23 that Steve so graciously gave to me and nothing, not even crickets! Completely silent save for the whisper of the fan. I ran it thru all of its range of motion and still nothing. Even after mounting my aftermarket filter and counter weight there was still no buzz. My new C23 (from my new best friend) works perfectly on my Plus. Thanks Steve!:cool:

@WTFDproject: I can only speak for my gimbal, but I strongly suspect the issue is the horizontal motor in all the problem units. With a delicate touch I can feel the the vibration is coming from this motor. Also if I apply slight side force to give it something to push back against the buzz stops. And even though I can make buzz come and go with the tilt control at certain positions like the OP noted, the buzz always goes away when side force or down force/weight is exerted/added to the assembly, even if it's the bottom of the camera. It doesn't care if it's out on the back of the arm like the OP's photos, or stuck right under the slip-ring pivot. It can even be the combined weight of a filter and counterweight. it's a matter of total weight. With enough added weight my gimbal does not buzz at all. With no extra weight the buzz is so bad it nearly becomes a chatter. Since weights appear to be a permanent fixture on my C23, I have used flattened led that I shaped to fit and installed with 3M 2-sided mounting tape.

@NorWiscPilot brought up camera balance. Though very important, it is not the cause of buzz. I stacked filters and a lens cap on the good camera from Steve, with no counter weight, and found it will tolerate an imbalance clear to the point of not physically being able to correct it, with no buzzing. It will give up and go limp first.

Photos show my filter counterweight and my center gimbal weight. The combo of the filter and two weights has stopped my gimbal from buzzing.
View attachment 20358 View attachment 20359
This fix that I have posted relates to oscillation about the vertical axis of the gimbal, and is diffinately related to the horizontal motor which rotates the gimbal horizontally. In my case, the oscillation was certainly audible and if I continued to rotate the camera upward; the oscillation/buzz would increase until the camera fell limp no longer controlled by the gimbal. Again, the result of the horizontal drive motor.
Thanks for all your replys. Hope it helps those expierncing similar issues.
 
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This is a great thread, but it is difficult to understand which motor is being discussed due to the different terms used. Thought this might be of some help:

Motors.jpg
 
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This is a great thread, but it is difficult to understand which motor is being discussed due to the different terms used. Thought this might be of some help:

View attachment 20367
Excellent: Tis the yaw motor. :)
Wish I had seen the 2 cent solution prior to my experimentation. The only difference is the open cell foam I used allowing adjustment relating to damping effect. :)
 
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I discovered this fix about a year ago and posted this here on the forum: 2Cent Solution to C23 Gimbal Buzz!
I used pennies at the time, but it is a viable fix that works and I use it to this day. While experimenting, I discovered that it was the azimuth motor that was buzzing, and that it didn't matter where the weight was on the gimbal, so I put the weight under the gimbal slip ring, above the camera, centered on the gimbal pivot. This reduces the weight leverage of the arm exerted on the slip-ring bearing, and gave it a more streamlined appearance.

Sorry about the length, I was about to post this as a new thread on C23 Gimbal buzz when I saw this post, there is a lot to explain, it should clarify the issue somewhat, and it may help someone like @WTFproject track down a cause and cure.

I am almost ready to abandon the idea that firmware is the problem or the fix, but there still could be a chance it effects it a little. It seems that the buzz is an issue with individual gimbals as I have suspected for quite sometime. For whatever specific reason we still do not know. It remains possible that firmware tweaks might resolve it, however I am skeptical and think that gimbals with buzz issues need to be calibrated/re-calibrated on an individual basis. Unfortunate that the H Plus app did away with gimbal calibration.

I have just tested and proven this with a substitute C23 camera. First let me thank @Steve Carr, possibly the most generous person I have met on the forum, for giving me a C23 to test. Now Steve may very likely be under the impression it is on loan to me, but anyone who knows me can tell you what a procrastinator I am, and the likelihood of me ever getting around to sending it back are extremely rare, ...pigs will already be fling by then!!

Before testing I put both cameras and the aircraft outside on the porch for a couple of hours to soak to an ambient temp of 45°, to insure maximum potential for buzz -which experience has shown me the buzz is always worse when things are cold. I powered mine on first, and believe it or not, the buzz was heard all the way down in Florida by @Ty Pilot, who told me over the phone after the test that he heard it clear down there! Okay at this point I should mention that by coincidence Ty had just called me for a chat as I was about to perform the test, so he hung on the phone, nervously biting his fingernails nails for the moment of truth. Still the buzz was quite loud, just ask Ty who had no problem hearing it over the speaker phone 3,000 miles away!

Next I mounted the C23 that Steve so graciously gave to me and nothing, not even crickets! Completely silent save for the whisper of the fan. I ran it thru all of its range of motion and still nothing. Even after mounting my aftermarket filter and counter weight there was still no buzz. My new C23 (from my new best friend) works perfectly on my Plus. Thanks Steve!:cool:

@WTFDproject: I can only speak for my gimbal, but I strongly suspect the issue is the horizontal motor in all the problem units. With a delicate touch I can feel the the vibration is coming from this motor. Also if I apply slight side force to give it something to push back against the buzz stops. And even though I can make buzz come and go with the tilt control at certain positions like the OP noted, the buzz always goes away when side force or down force/weight is exerted/added to the assembly, even if it's the bottom of the camera. It doesn't care if it's out on the back of the arm like the OP's photos, or stuck right under the slip-ring pivot. It can even be the combined weight of a filter and counterweight. it's a matter of total weight. With enough added weight my gimbal does not buzz at all. With no extra weight the buzz is so bad it nearly becomes a chatter. Since weights appear to be a permanent fixture on my C23, I have used flattened led that I shaped to fit and installed with 3M 2-sided mounting tape.

@NorWiscPilot brought up camera balance. Though very important, it is not the cause of buzz. I stacked filters and a lens cap on the good camera from Steve, with no counter weight, and found it will tolerate an imbalance clear to the point of not physically being able to correct it, with no buzzing. It will give up and go limp first.

Photos show my filter counterweight and my center gimbal weight. The combo of the filter and two weights has stopped my gimbal from buzzing.
View attachment 20358 View attachment 20359
Wish I had seen the 2 cent fix. Only difference between the 2 cent fix and the one I posted is the use of open cell foam allowing adjustment of dampening effect.
 

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