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H920+ Service/Repair Manual

FLDirector19

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If the SR24 in the aircraft does not change from slow to faster blinking with the tilting of the aircraft it is not getting into bind mode and will not show up in the Bind menu on the ST16.
Does that make the SR24 bad, or something else?
 

WTFDproject

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It could be either. Slow blinking shows the module is getting power. The failure to transition to a faster blinking rate implies it is not receiving the signal from the Flight control board that tells it to enter the binding mode. That could be a bad wire, a bad connector, a bad 2.4 module, a bad flight control board, bad firmware or possibly even some problem with the main ESC board.
Have you looked closely at the connector on the SR24 module to ensure all four pins are fully inserted and latched in the connector? (I think the gray wire carries the signal to initiate binding.)

Please clarify that the orange light on the 2.4 module itself is NOT (or is) changing flash rate when tilted forward. By reading between the lines I'm pretty much assuming it is NOT changing. But it would be good if you could make a direct statement.
 
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FLDirector19

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It could be either. Slow blinking shows the module is getting power. The failure to transition to a faster blinking rate implies it is not receiving the signal from the Flight control board that tells it to enter the binding mode. That could be a bad wire, a bad connector, a bad 2.4 module, a bad flight control board, bad firmware or possibly even some problem with the main ESC board.
Have you tried installing the 2.4 Module from the "good" H920 into the H920 with a problem?
Have you looked closely at the connector on the SR24 module to ensure all four pins are fully inserted and latched in the connector? (I think the gray wire carries the signal to initiate binding.)

Please clarify that the orange light on the 2.4 module itself is NOT (or is) changing flash rate when tilted forward. By reading between the lines I'm pretty much assuming it is NOT changing. But it would be good if you could make a direct statement.
Ok… here is the latest update, with photos.
I checked the voltage on the H920+ batteries & charged them to 23v, while I charged the ST24 to 90%.
Checked the SR24 to see if the yellow light flashed faster after the tipping… it did.
I put the aircraft back together, reattached the CGO4, then turned on the ST16 (see photo 1). Almost immediately, I got a (Obs avoidance failed. Error). I know the H920+ doesn’t have obstacle avoidance, so I wasn’t concerned.
Started the H920+, tipping it twice, then refreshed the screen to Bind. Sometimes the SR24xxxx would appear, other times not. The CGO4 spun in a 360 circle, as if it was initializing, sometimes it would say it was binding, other times not. Even when the SR24xxxx and CGO4 were on the screen, and I initiated a BIND, the Status Lights still flashed white, red, blue, green.
When I verified the Hardware Monitor, all of the switches and dials worked except the T1 & T2 (They didn’t have full range, only the little I photographed.)
I’ve added some photos of various steps along the way.

Do you feel the SR24 is bad? BB9E804A-EA1E-42DF-97FF-2A220093DBCD.jpeg 702E6972-AF60-40A5-9D7E-4A02B16AB2A0.jpeg 919F1935-B617-4167-B411-DEB60FB3E41C.jpeg 7BC51DA4-EDC5-4E5D-82C2-84CA8AAB54F2.jpeg 061E15DD-AD11-4145-9627-03C4B5827B4F.jpeg B5C4DB07-6574-4C7B-8F3E-AD8C951EB854.jpeg 42A1A183-E0F7-4D6E-9422-57ECBB8F3FCA.jpeg
 

WTFDproject

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Ok… here is the latest update, with photos.
I checked the voltage on the H920+ batteries & charged them to 23v, while I charged the ST24 to 90%.
Checked the SR24 to see if the yellow light flashed faster after the tipping… it did.
I put the aircraft back together, reattached the CGO4, then turned on the ST16 (see photo 1). Almost immediately, I got a (Obs avoidance failed. Error). I know the H920+ doesn’t have obstacle avoidance, so I wasn’t concerned.
Started the H920+, tipping it twice, then refreshed the screen to Bind. Sometimes the SR24xxxx would appear, other times not. The CGO4 spun in a 360 circle, as if it was initializing, sometimes it would say it was binding, other times not. Even when the SR24xxxx and CGO4 were on the screen, and I initiated a BIND, the Status Lights still flashed white, red, blue, green.
When I verified the Hardware Monitor, all of the switches and dials worked except the T1 & T2 (They didn’t have full range, only the little I photographed.)
I’ve added some photos of various steps along the way.

Do you feel the SR24 is bad?
Almost immediately, I got a (Obs avoidance failed. Error). I know the H920+ doesn’t have obstacle avoidance, so I wasn’t concerned.
I tend to agree. I don't have an H920+ to compare, so I selected an H920 model and a CG04 on an ST16, then bound the ST16 to a Q500 (which also does not have OBS). I got the same OBS failure indications. Not 100% conclusive, but it tends to agree with your opinion that the indication is normal. But there is an interesting caveat to that. When the drone is not powered on, the OBS alarm is not present. This seems important. It suggests (that at least at some level) your controller is actually already bound to the H920. Or at least somehow communicating with the OBS. YOU CAN TEST THIS THEORY BY OBSERVING IF THE OBS FAILURE IS ONLY PRESENT WHEN THE H920 IS POWERED ON. A contradiction to this line of thought is that your screenshots are not showing any telemetry. If it were bound, the telemetry should be there. (Yeah, I'm confused.)
OBS.png

When I verified the Hardware Monitor, all of the switches and dials worked except the T1 & T2 (They didn’t have full range, only the little I photographed.)
I think that's normal. Mine's the same way.
Trim Tabs.png

The CGO4 spun in a 360 circle, as if it was initializing, sometimes it would say it was binding, other times not.
Do you mean the actual camera was spinning? If the actual camera was spinning, it might mean something. Some clarification. If the actual CGo4 is spinning, it's from the gimbal part of the CGo4, not from the camera part of the CGo4. The CGo4 Gimbal is part of the SR24xxx binding, not the camera binding. But no, it's probably not supposed to be spinning. At least it doesn't on the other H series models I'm familiar with. We might need to look at that in more detail later. If you meant something else was spinning, none of this applies.

Checked the SR24 to see if the yellow light flashed faster after the tipping… it did.
Sometimes the SR24xxxx would appear, other times not.
Another clarification might be in order. We tend to think of the binding as being between the ST16 and the drone. I'm pretty sure that's not exactly accurate. I believe the control signal (2.4Ghz) binding is actually between the ST16 and the SR24xxx itself. In turn, the SR24xxx is bound to the drone via two of the four wires and requires no additional action from us. This is important because if I am correct, it may mean the problem is either in the SR24xxx or in the ST16. (Which contradicts another possible line of thought I will discuss later. Bummer.)

Even when the SR24xxxx and CGO4 were on the screen, and I initiated a BIND, the Status Lights still flashed white, red, blue, green.
The "White" you mention worries me. There is no white as part of any of the Red/Green/Blue sequences listed in the manual. Is the "white" a part of the same consistent sequence as the other three colors or does it flash somewhat out of step with the other three?
Also, the sequence (according to the manual), should be RED-GREEN-BLUE. Not RED-BLUE-GREEN. Are you certain of the order of the colors?
The manual says the H920+ uses Red/Green/Blue to indicate low battery level, and it is also associated with accelerometer calibration. The H920 manual does NOT mention Red/Green/Blue during FC0 initialization, but earlier models, such as Q500, did. Which brings up another question. Way back in Post #5 you said, "The top needed to have the three wires for each arm removed for the top to come off (plus the GPS cable.)". I believe you have assembled the H920+ again. Are ALL motor wires/GPS, and everything else correctly connected now?

Back to the "line of thought I will discuss later"; I think you currently have the new FC0 module installed. Is there any difference in LED (W/R/G/B) light sequence between the old and new FC0? Is there any chance the two FC0s got mixed up on the work bench, and you inadvertently reinstalled the original? (Don't laugh. I've done that.)
 
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RTH

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A note to add on the 17 2mm screws, 4 of them are very slightly longer, if you're looking at them wondering where these for go, they go into positions 7,8,9&10 these are the four behind the battery door.
 
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