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Instructions to remove the CGO3 from my new Typhoon H

Joined
May 4, 2018
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#1
I was instructed by one of the guru's here to remove my camera for my first few flights in case I have an "uh oh" moment, there by saving damage on the most expensive part. I realize the manual has absolutely no information on how to remove the camera and don't want to start to get creative and realize I'm doing it wrong or break something. Is there a simple guide on how to remove and reinstall the camera properly?
 
Joined
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#2
Remove gimbal lock

Press plastic tab at front of camera

Grip gimbal by sides of mount and slide gimbal and camera forward and off

To install

Visually align gimbal tracks with mounting rails

Push gimbal on until it stops
 
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#3
So the removal seems weird at first. Do not push on the bottom plate as you can unseat dampeners. I’ve also gotten in the habit of pulling battery as my left handed approach guarantees my right thumb is over the power button when I’m holding the nose and pushing on the back top mount to release. I keep the cover lock on as it’s not in the way and keeps smudgy palm prints of my lens or filter. Plus, the cover lock keeps the camera secure and less likely to get damaged from gimbal rolling around wrong.

Remount is actually a bit more difficult. It’s possible to get of angle and not seat both rails properly and the camera seems mounted but is actually about to fall off. The mounting power shoe also can get damaged from improper mounting and the brass tangs get stuck down for no power or camera connect.

I remove my camera after every flight and do not leave it hanging from the H in the case. There is debate about the merit of this practice but for me, it’s routine.
 
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#4
Thanks for that Speedy reply. I assumed it would be a simple system, as these days most things are slide and lock and click kind of things; not get out your toolbox. But since the manual had nothing I could find I didn't want to start wiggling and twisting without knowing for sure. Appreciate the input. Have a great weekend.
 
Joined
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#5
The Yuneec manual is barely worth the paper its written on. Check this site for manuals written by pilots that have sought to fill in the gaps and to YouTube for some videos.
 
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#7
Thanks for that Speedy reply. I assumed it would be a simple system, as these days most things are slide and lock and click kind of things; not get out your toolbox. But since the manual had nothing I could find I didn't want to start wiggling and twisting without knowing for sure. Appreciate the input. Have a great weekend.
I don't always have the protective cover on my camera when I go to remove the camera. This makes it a bit difficult to tell which way is forward since the camera can spin around freely.

So I made a label that says "FRONT" and installed it on the side of the gimbal. I also attached a RED ribbon onto the cover so I would always be sure to remove the cover before flight. See my attached picture.
 

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#9
There is debate about the merit of this practice but for me, it’s routine

I had fedex break the gimball mount with the H in a pelican case. I now have a sperate case that I use specifically for the cameras so they can't be broken off. I highly recommend taking the cameras off if there is any slight chance the H might be tossed around in a case, no matter how good the case is.
 
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#10
Wow! You've got to seriously abuse a Pelican case to cause that. Like drop it from 3 stories up and run over it.

Its a good cautionary that you can @CraigCam tell. Now I'm going to search for a suitable case for the camera with sufficient foam.
 
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#11
I had fedex break the gimball mount with the H in a pelican case. I now have a sperate case that I use specifically for the cameras so they can't be broken off. I highly recommend taking the cameras off if there is any slight chance the H might be tossed around in a case, no matter how good the case is.
Agreed. My big case is very deep and the camera attached does not touch the bottom. There is enough clearance that a good drop could knock the camera of the dampeners - like a hard landing and bounce - and rip those horribly mounted and poorly strain relieved camera wires. My other cases being backpacks, get slung around and tossed a lot and the camera is always fine. The other advantages of getting in the habit of camera dismounting after every flight are:
1. Quick check of dampeners, plates, and lens so it’s ready for next time.
2. Easy removal of SD card and routine of labeling and transferring
of media into proper project folders. This also creates the habit of emptying card to keep it clean and ready for next flight. That in turn helps guarantee removal of card from computer and confident reseat into camera that’s easy to do when removed.
3. Post flight kit reassembly becomes all critical parts checked as during camera capture, batteries and ST are charging so it’s camera back in bag first usually. I know it’s resting safely on the bottom of bag and the H goes in and out of the formed foam easily.
4. I can quickly calibrate the compass and not flip poorly because I’m fighting props or camera weight. I don’t like the gimbal motors working so hard to find level during calibration so I just don’t do it with the camera on.
5. I can do a quick test flight if needed if there any flight behavior checks or concerns and not risk the camera. That decision has saved me money by not crashing the camera.
6. I get to check the camera again to make sure no dampeners are off at pre flight. I hate jello in shots and one poorly seated dampener is all it takes to ruin your video.
7. Since I checked and cleaned my lens and filter post flight, I know when I remove protective cover right before Drone boot, my lens is untouched by me in the field. It’s also why I put the cover on before removing camera as my hands are oily and dirty from being outside.
8. Finally and most importantly, it makes me deal and check with the rails on the top plate that actually hold the camera secure. In a hard landing or bounce, they are supposed to break and leave the camera on the ground while your drone goes wherever. Yuneec choose a system that only works when the gear is down for this to happen. Most of us crash with gear up and the camera becomes the most damaged and is pretty tricky to repair. I’ve successfully ruined three in my attempts to fix so maybe just maybe it’s why I’m camera maintenance focused.

Finally, the CGO3plus is a pretty decent camera that with practice, produces very good video. I highly recommend the Captain Drone video on the AWB and histogram he produced last year when they did the last firmware upgrade. I found that his tips about how to lock your white balance are great and it changed how I set up the resolution, ISO, and shutter speed.
 
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#12
@CraigCam as you say, the CGO3+ is a decent camera. I have 2 TH 480 and the camera on one works fine but it is far from properly focused. The other one provides very sharp 4K video that I enjoy .

I'm contemplating sending the soft CGO3+ to Carolina Dronz to fix the focus when I get a few bucks extra. There are too many stories of pilots trying it themselves and it not going so great.
 

Eagle's Eye Video

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#13
Tis why I have been so patient with CD in handling my camera issues... even though as a photographer I know the theoretical process to do the focusing, I have no experience in attempting it. I will wait until KAV hires me so I can practice other peoples' cameras... :eek:
 
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Eagle's Eye Video

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#14
@WildcatDave - Since you mentioned that these are some of your first flights, do not fly very far when flying without a camera. You lose two major aids in establishing orientation:

1) A view from the camera so you can see from landmarks, what direction you are facing (assuming you have the pan control in follow).

2) The highly valuable Green Arrow. It only comes up after the camera WiFi has successfully connected.
Green Arrow Explained
 
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#15
@CraigCam as you say, the CGO3+ is a decent camera. I have 2 TH 480 and the camera on one works fine but it is far from properly focused. The other one provides very sharp 4K video that I enjoy .

I'm contemplating sending the soft CGO3+ to Carolina Dronz to fix the focus when I get a few bucks extra. There are too many stories of pilots trying it themselves and it not going so great.
I’ve got two broken ones that when I send in for repair, I’m going to add an upgrade lens install as well. Just waiting on some extra money to magically appear lol. I figured I’d give CD a try on one. They are definitely tricky to take apart and repair on your own. I hope I get a good bench tech when I do as I see so many varying stories of lens upgrade issues.
 
Joined
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#16
I’ve got two broken ones that when I send in for repair, I’m going to add an upgrade lens install as well. Just waiting on some extra money to magically appear lol. I figured I’d give CD a try on one. They are definitely tricky to take apart and repair on your own. I hope I get a good bench tech when I do as I see so many varying stories of lens upgrade issues.
FYI, I have been very pleased with the CD 3.77 mm 82° FOV lens which CD installed.
 

Eagle's Eye Video

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#19
To my knowledge, the CD 3.77 and the PixAero 3.77 are identical lenses.
 

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