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Lift off problem

Joined
Apr 28, 2019
Messages
17
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Age
54
Location
Soldotna, Alaska
Friends ...

Eric in Alaska here. I'm brand new to this forum, but I've lurked many times and I've had a 1st gen Q500 for several years. I crash it a lot but still love it! Thank you in advance for any help you may lend.

I recently bought a Q500 4K with ST10+ controller used off eBay. When I tried to fly it, the left stick UP input would not add power. Weirdly, the left stick LEFT/RT inputs changed the power a little, nosing it over and breaking a prop. The right stick inputs did not (noticeably) do anything, but of course she's not airborne so no clue if they work.

To troubleshoot, I hooked the 4K's controller (ST10+) to my original Q500 and it flew fine. So, the problem is not the controller, rather it seems to be in the 4K's guts (the circuit board or whatever it is called -- I'm not proficient with electronics as my failed pinball machine rebuild would attest).

The 4K's camera, however, does work and accepts inputs from the ST10+. Thus, I'm sure the camera is good, the controller is good, and the battery is good. I evidently just have a drone body that was not what I was promised by the fellow who sold it to me.

Big issue: Is it worth spending time trying to fix the new drone, or just try to buy a new body with good guts?

And if anyone in the Lower-48 can go find the guy who sold me this "excellent condition" 4K and punch him in the face for me, that'd be great, too! (Just kidding).
 
WOW. This is a new one. I've never run into the exact symptoms you described. However, you have a great advantage in having another Q500 kit to assist in troubleshooting. This could get pretty involved, but there are two things to try up front that might even help:

First: Hook the 4K to the GUI, and look for anything strange. Especially pay attention to the reported battery voltage, and see if it reasonably reflects the actual battery voltage. False low readings occur on Q500 boards, and result in SOME of the symptoms you described.

Second: Delete the existing 4K model on the ST10+, create a new model with a different name, bind to it, and see if it makes any difference. Alternatively, create a new model on the ST10 for the 4K. You will have to use a regular Q500 model, I think, but it doesn't matter. They are essentially the same as far as control is concerned.

One clarification, when you said "The 4K's camera, however, does work and accepts inputs from the ST10+.", did that include the "TILT" input? That's the only camera control signal that goes through the drone. The rest are all on the camera 5.8 WiFi signal, directly from the controller to the camera.
 
@WTFDproject I agree with all of that. I would only add: Never do flight testing with the camera attached.
Also test the motors with the GUI to make certain they are all operating and turning in the correct direction.
To test the right stick, remove the props, turn it on and start the motors. Then move the right stick to see if the motors change speeds.
 
@Steve Carr,
I've never had to deal with NFZs. There are a couple NFZs, and a good sized airport in and near Soldatna. Can you speak to Q500 4K behavior in an NFZ, and does it differ for a Q500? (I'm drawing a blank trying to find information).
 
The firmware is identical to all Q500's. If it is an NFZ the status indicator will be red and the motors won't start. It is close to the Kenai airport but I doubt that is the problem here.


1556510497894.png
 
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Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. The local airport isn't a problem - my Q500 has never had a problem (and I have blanket permission from the airport authority to fly if I follow the rules). Prior to my post, I did delete and re-bind on the ST10+ to the 4K drone as WTFD suggests. It did not help.

I lamely couldn't find my GUI, so I just ordered one and it'll be here in a few days to try your other suggestions.

As for the right stick, I cannot detect any changes in any of the 4 positions. The only thing changing the props is left/right on the LEFT stick. And it nosed over and crashed.

As far as testing the motors without props, I read on here that it'll cause a sand-in-the-gears nasty sound due to spinning too fast. So I've been testing with props on.

Thanks again to all! I am open to any suggestions ya'll have RE: how to use the GUI once I get it. I have never done that, but I did update my Wizard Wand as Yuneec showed on its video. That wasn't too bad. But WTFD's other suggestions are a bit intimidating. Hopefully it won't be too hard for me to figure out.

Cheers!
eric
 
Sorry ... forgot to answer your question. Yes, the "tilt" up and down worked on the 4K camera with the ST10+. And the video was streaming to the monitor.
 
As for the right stick, I cannot detect any changes in any of the 4 positions. The only thing changing the props is left/right on the LEFT stick. And it nosed over and crashed.

Not sure if you meant you cannot detect changes when motors were running, or when you checked the controller response in the hardware monitor. What do you see in the controller hardware monitor itself?
 
I meant while it was running props sitting on the ground. I don't know how to do what your last sentence suggests. How do I "see in the controller hardware monitor"? Does that require the GUI? Without props running, the ST10+ LEFT stick beeps in each of the 4 positions. The RIGHT stick does not beep in any position, oddly.
 
At the bottom of your ST10 screen, select "Flight Settings". Click "OK" on the warning. A menu appears. At the bottom of the menu, select "Hardware Monitor". When you move buttons, sticks, sliders, etc., you should see changes on the display. The left stick is the J1 and J2 scales. The right stick is J3 and J4. All four scales should move from ~"0" to ~200. And, of course, check all the other buttons and controls while you are in there.
 
By the way, I test motors with props off all the time, and never saw any problem at all. Lots of different opinions on this, but for me, safety outweighs any potential damage to a motor. I can replace a motor. I can't replace my fingers.
 
Friends:

I got my GUI and everything tested well. All inputs are fine, I updated the firmware, and all props are turning the correct direction. I did this with both my Q500 and the 4K.

COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM: My 4K's (with the problem lifting off) cable which comes out the rear battery compartment does NOT have a companion cable that connects to it while nesting inside. [[SEE PHOTO -- upper drone has both cables, problem 4K is the lower drone with solo cable]]

My Q500 has the companion cable, but the 4K is ONLY the cable to connect to the GUI (nothing needed to be unhooked). Is that the 4K design, or did the previous owner remove the companion cable?

16434
 
That is completely normal. The 4K uses a "GUI Tap" that ties into the coupling you see on the older models. The coupling is still there, its just inside where you can't see it. On the 4K, all you see in the battery door is the tap for connecting the GUI to the mainboard, without having to disconnect the receiver.
 
I have an older Q500 4K and there I have to disconnect the receiver from serial bus to connect the USB-serial converter cable for GUI. All older models are going this way.
Newer Q500 have a build-in Y-cable for the serial bus. The receiver and the GUI cable can be there at the same time. It's easier to use, nothing else, no technical difference so far as WTFDprojects said.
 
When ST10 shows "ready" under Mode and GPS, my REAR light is purple (steady), my 2 rear prop lights are red (steady) and 2 front prop lights are white (steady).
 
Right lights. This is really starting to sound like a mainboard issue. It could also POSSIBLY be a receiver issue, but lets do one more thing first. Can you put it back on the GUI, take a picture of the GUI screen with all the sensors, and post it?
 
I just ran it thru another test. Virtually no inputs to the prop motors (no blades). I think it's toast. Here is the screenshot with GUI connected. 16435
 
One last possibility for diagnosis could be the flightlogs if you have an SD card in the ST10. The file triple Telemetry, RemoteGPS and Remote from an unsuccessful start is needed.

br HE
 

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