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My CGO3+ wont turn on after crash, but works in another Typhoon H

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I crashed my Typhoon H and after replacing my arm, I noticed my camera wouldnt turn on anymore. I attached my friends CGO3+ camera and it didnt work either so I figured it was the camera.

I installed my CGO3+ onto his H and it worked! So, for process of elimination, I took off my 6 pin connector and put it on his and it worked too... so theres something wrong with the aircraft??

TL;DL
My camera doesnt work but works on another H.
I took my gimbal connection plate and put it on another H and it too worked...
 
Sounds like the problem is with your TH. Have you put the other CGO3+ on your TH to see if works?
 
Sounds like the problem is with your TH. Have you put the other CGO3+ on your TH to see if works?

Yes, everything works visa versa... It does seem to be something with the TH, I just can't imagine what it would be. I'm pretty good technically, so I'm not afraid to open it up...
 
I crashed my Typhoon H and after replacing my arm, I noticed my camera wouldnt turn on anymore. I attached my friends CGO3+ camera and it didnt work either so I figured it was the camera.

I installed my CGO3+ onto his H and it worked! So, for process of elimination, I took off my 6 pin connector and put it on his and it worked too... so theres something wrong with the aircraft??

TL;DL
My camera doesnt work but works on another H.
I took my gimbal connection plate and put it on another H and it too worked...

Sounds like the wire providing camera power is not connected internally off main board or at connector that the plate attaches to. Did any metal fall out when you removed the camera bracket? There is a ferrite core around the wires that join at the male end. That can break on a crash. Check those pins and make sure one didn't push back. Those can unseat and you have to push them back in carefully. Worse case is power regulating diode went south so if you do get into where the wires come from main board, look for signs of burning and sniff for burnt electrical. The fact your camera survived is good news. You can buy a bind and fly with nothing new H close to what a main board costs and you get lots of spare parts.
 
Thanks for the reply. The ferrite core was still attached so no problems there... I traced the cable to the main board and there is no burnt smell or any signs for any electrical damage... See pic
0728171042.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply. The ferrite core was still attached so no problems there... I traced the cable to the main board and there is no burnt smell or any signs for any electrical damage... See pic
0728171042.jpg

You got a volt meter? Power it up and measure what you've got at the pins. Pretty sure the red wire is power. Yellow is typically video out back to wifi transmitter. Black is ground and the other wires are for all the gimbal motor control. The question I did not see addressed was if the suspect H initialized the gimbal to set straight which it should even if camera is not connecting.
 
You got a volt meter? Power it up and measure what you've got at the pins. Pretty sure the red wire is power. Yellow is typically video out back to wifi transmitter. Black is ground and the other wires are for all the gimbal motor control. The question I did not see addressed was if the suspect H initialized the gimbal to set straight which it should even if camera is not connecting.

And yes, we got 12v from the aircraft to the gimbal connector board (6pin) though I tested it and works fine. So the issue seems to be no signal...
 
There are some electronics on the connector board. I can't tell from you first post but you tried swapping the connecting boards? Check those brass tabs to make sure none is pressed down and stuck. That happens. You can "spring" it back up with a gentle push of a pointed probe from the backside once removed.
 
I finally contacted yuneeY and sentsitiins for repair. ItIcost me 130$ and had it back in a couple weeks. I was later told you could rotate the gimbal board but I didn't risk it
 
I’m late here but there is a fuse that pops on crashing that kills camera power. It’s on the main ESC board and my tech successfully replaced one with a slightly larger one that just made contact on the proper points and was soldered back in fairly easily.
 
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I’m late here but there is a fuse that pops on crashing that kills camera power. It’s on the main ESC board and my tech successfully replaced one with a slightly larger one that just made contact on the proper points and was soldered back in fairly easily.


Not the same issue im afraid. My camera was not involved in a crash and I replaced the ESC board and still had the issue
 
Is all the contacts sprung out on the plate? I’ve had them break off before.
 

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