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I've done gimbal calibrations twice, shut it off and then back on, and the lens still remains in it's full position and will not collapse for transport. And the angle on the camera will not level out. remains tilted about 15 to 25* down and will not pan up. What am I doing wrong , guys I need some help before I test fight
 
Have you tried to reset the camera ?
 
Gimble calibration. Is the reset. Have you tried rebounding the cgo4 with the controller
 
Yes I've tried just about everything I know to do. Gimbal calibration, rebinding, and nothing has worked so far.
 
When you state you have shut it down and re-started twice, were you referring to the entire aircraft or just the camera? Reason I ask is the camera has to be shut down independent of the aircraft to retract the lens. If you power off the aircraft without first powering off the camera the lens will remain extended. The same will occur if you power off the Pro Action without first shutting down the camera. I'm attaching two Pro Action manuals, one specific to the 920+ and the other written for the original 920 as they present somewhat different information that can be useful. Looking through the 920+ PDF the instruction for turning off the camera is on page 15 along with a picture of the controls on the phone app. In the original 920 version the power off instruction is on page 15 along with a depiction of the transmitter screen camera controls. The camera will power on when the aircraft is powered on but the camera will not retract the lens when the aircraft is powered off.

Check to make sure the JST camera connector is properly inserted in the bottom of the aircraft. Also note that if the camera is disturbed in any way during the aircraft power up sequence that movement can interrupt and defeat the camera boot up process. Remove the lens cap before you power up. That's how I found out about interrupting the camera boot up process[emoji6]

Test the CGO-4 boot up on the ProAction to establish it will start up and function correctly. If it is then installed correctly on the aircraft but won’t boot up and self calibrate you should contact your dealer or Yuneec and discuss a possible need to repair the aircraft. If the camera fails to function on both aircraft and Pro Action there’s likely a camera problem. One of our members experienced a failure with a new aircraft where the camera functioned just fine on a Pro Action and another aircraft but not on the aircraft it was delivered with. The problem ended up associated with the aircraft, not the camera.

FYI, one pin of the JST connector is not used so don’t become alarmed if you notice a pin without a wire.
 

Attachments

  • ProAction_CGO4_H920_Plus.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 24
  • PROACTION CGO4 User Manual.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 19
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@PatR
@thoneter
Any suggestions for ttmarch???
I saw the post but I'm not much help here. For me the cgo4 works or there is little to be done to fix issues. Like Pat said don't interupt the sequence. I've noticed that the slightest interference like a blade of grass can be-jigger this thing.
 
When you state you have shut it down and re-started twice, were you referring to the entire aircraft or just the camera? Reason I ask is the camera has to be shut down independent of the aircraft to retract the lens. If you power off the aircraft without first powering off the camera the lens will remain extended. The same will occur if you power off the Pro Action without first shutting down the camera. I'm attaching two Pro Action manuals, one specific to the 920+ and the other written for the original 920 as they present somewhat different information that can be useful. Looking through the 920+ PDF the instruction for turning off the camera is on page 15 along with a picture of the controls on the phone app. In the original 920 version the power off instruction is on page 15 along with a depiction of the transmitter screen camera controls. The camera will power on when the aircraft is powered on but the camera will not retract the lens when the aircraft is powered off.

Check to make sure the JST camera connector is properly inserted in the bottom of the aircraft. Also note that if the camera is disturbed in any way during the aircraft power up sequence that movement can interrupt and defeat the camera boot up process. Remove the lens cap before you power up. That's how I found out about interrupting the camera boot up process;)
Thanks for the info. I will go over this tonight. I am just anxious to get this bird in the air. And I didn’t know the camera could be shut down independently, so I will be sure to check that out. Thanks
 
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One other thing. If after all is said and done you find the camera to work properly, use some clear silicone around the wires where they enter the camera. Apply the silicone in amanner silicone to extend from the camera up onto the heat shrink covering the wire group. This is a very weak point and needs to be provided additional security as the camera wiring provides nothing for strain relief. Repetitive movement of the wires via removal and installation of the gimbal at the aircraft will cause the wires to eventually separate from the the camera and gimbal.

There will be times the camera fails to boot up on the aircraft. It's irritating but usually cycling the aircraft power will correct the situation.
 
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A few more manuals for you should you not already have them. Yuneec likes to shotgun information across their manuals, with no one manual inclusive of all that might be applicable to any given model. Put them all together and ferret through them and you obtain info that's applicable to every one of their models. As an example much of what Typhoon H owners needed to know is missing from Typhoon H documentation but available in the 920 and Typhoon 4k/Q500 4K manuals. The GH4 manual, although not inclusive of the CGO-4, has some info in it that can be helpful when cross referenced with the CGO-4 documentation. The GH4 manual is not very user friendly. Understand there was a tremendous amount of capability resident in the GH4 that was not carried over to the development of the CGO-4. Having to cross reference documentation is a pain but provides enlightenment when performed.
 

Attachments

  • Manual-H920-Plus-EN_v3.0.pdf
    2.9 MB · Views: 11
  • h920_user_manual_A5_(st12)_v1.0.pdf
    3.8 MB · Views: 11
  • h920_industry_user_manual_(st24)_v1.0.pdf
    3.3 MB · Views: 12
  • dmc-gh4_en_adv_om.pdf
    16.2 MB · Views: 23
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One other thing. If after all is said and done you find the camera to work properly, use some clear silicone around the wires where they enter the camera. Apply the silicone in amanner silicone to extend from the camera up onto the heat shrink covering the wire group. This is a very weak point and needs to be provided additional security as the camera wiring provides nothing for strain relief. Repetitive movement of the wires via removal and installation of the gimbal at the aircraft will cause the wires to eventually separate from the the camera and gimbal.

There will be times the camera fails to boot up on the aircraft. It's irritating but usually cycling the aircraft power will correct the situation.
Amento that. I have a cgo4 with broken wires going into the slip ring. Silicone it if you plan to remove.
 
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Ok, I learned how to shut the camera down on both the ProAction handle and the 920. Now as you can see by the pictures, after calibration, the camera is looking down, not centered up with the aircraft and I experience some drifting usually to the left. I can correct that with the pan control. What can I do to correct this? The camera, when attached to the handle is dead on level and does not drift left or right.

IMG_0830 (Edited).JPG IMG_0831 (Edited).JPG
 
First thing to look at are the switches at the top left side of the ST-16. Are they all “up”, particularly the second one from the left? Is the gimbal pan knob centered? Is the slider on the left side of the-16 in the upmost position? If all those conditions are correct we go to the next paragraph.

The ST-16 possesses the same hidden menu system calibration test as the Typhoon H but it’s labeled differently when accessed through the ST-16 Settings tab. I need to power up my system to write accurately about the process and it’s a bit late for that tonight. If someone else does not finish describing it tonight I’ll get on it in the morning.

I do not guarantee it will work but it’s the only other thing to try before calling the seller or Yuneec. However, presuming you’ve tested the camera controls with the Pro Action and found them satisfactory, you have isolated the problem location as being at the aircraft or controller, not the camera.
 
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First thing to look at are the switches at the top left side of the ST-16. Are they all “up”, particularly the second one from the left? Is the gimbal pan knob centered? Is the slider on the left side of the-16 in the upmost position? If all those conditions are correct we go to the next paragraph.

The ST-16 possesses the same hidden menu system calibration test as the Typhoon H but it’s labeled differently when accessed through the ST-16 Settings tab. I need to power up my system to write accurately about the process and it’s a bit late for that tonight. If someone else does not finish describing it tonight I’ll get on it in the morning.

I do not guarantee it will work but it’s the only other thing to try before calling the seller or Yuneec. However, presuming you’ve tested the camera controls with the Pro Action and found them satisfactory, you have isolated the problem location as being at the aircraft or controller, not the camera.
Yes , one of the first things I did was go through the calibration menu on the controller itself. Made sure all switches were in the proper position.
 

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