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Pulling the trigger

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Good day everyone.I am a complete novice with UAV/RC in general so I am apologizing in advance. I have been researching the pros and cons of multiple drones for a few months and I am about to pull the trigger. I have been reading this fantastic site and watching the videos linked and have decided on either the EVO or the Typhoon H+ ( if I can find it anywhere). I am looking to have fun with it. Take it on the beach to film my kids with the dog playing... Aerial footage of where I am living .. etc..
I have a few questions on some of the things that I have read.
1) The ND filter dilemma. I read that Freewell has stopped manufacturing the 39.xx mm ND for the C23. I see that the solution that everyone WAS ( I could have missed a post or two) suggesting is to use the 40.5 mm adapter ring. I believe the "best" was the Formatt Hitech. Is that still the case?
2) Gimble Buzz. Is this still an issue with the latest patch?
3) RealSense. Has anyone actually had the Obstacle avoidance work as designed? In one video I saw a gentleman was trying to ram it into a rather large construction vehicle. Instead of going around the TH+ slammed on the breaks.
4) Has anyone traveled internationally with their machine? Is it a beast to travel with?
Last one I swear..
5) Best aftermarket addons. I know this one is very subjective. I know that the Professionals here have tweaked their machines with certain parts for better .. I use the term loosely... performance. Better antennae, non-stock batteries and chargers..balance chargers.

Any guidance would be most appreciated.

Regards,
Karl
 
No 3, Realsense and obstacle avoidance are separate. OA will stop the craft crashing into something. Realsense will to start work the same until you input to tell it to go around the obstacle, then it will remember that instruction for the next time
 
Hello Skyrider117,
Very good questions you asked. I am also looking into purchasing the H+ and was wondering some of the same things.
It looks like real sense only works in some modes and I am curious if the obstacle avoidance works similar to dji's
 
Here is my answers to those questions in order.


1] You got it. Adapter comes with the Plus - find suitable filters for your needs. Be advised weight can be an issue so you will need to look for light as well as 'The Best'

2] Its a Toss up, depends who you ask, I have never had it. I know another who did for the longest then it just went away YMMV

3] It works as designed - the task for pilots is to understand how it was designed to work and not expect it to be 'thinking' device with supernatural mad pilot skills. Many of us believe while it has some usefulness it is has enough limitations that I we would not recommend to a novice looking for crash insurance.

4] Yes, not me. RPR has a good thread on how he did and what you need to know I am sure a search for 'taking an H on a Plane' should dig it up.

5] DEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP Subject. I would advise to search through the forum and get a handle on the many aspects of the Plus while you make your decisions. I would advise any one getting started to:
  1. Read about the types of batteries these aircraft use. Most newbs ruin hundreds of dollars worth of batteries treating these things like cell phones - they aint. ;)
  2. If you get a Plus - mission one will be to get a good aftermarket charger and associated adapters.
  3. Focus on flying while you search through the rest of the goodies and pick the ones that seem to fit you needs as they arrive.
  4. As a side task, take a moment to get familiar with the rules for flying these aircraft - there are two sets of rules, one for hobby and another for commercial operators you will be in the hobby class first. Do a search for the FAA and AMA websites and begin there.
And Karl, welcome to the forum and good luck. ?
 
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I for one am tough and anal about my H+ but I love flying mine, and I spend more time talking to my H+ than my inspires and DJI drones. [emoji23]

Is it worth buying an H Plus? Most definitely.
 
I for one am tough and anal about my H+ but I love flying mine, and I spend more time talking to my H+ than my inspires and DJI drones. [emoji23]

Is it worth buying an H Plus? Most definitely.
And doing internal brain surgery as well!;)
 
1) The ND filter dilemma.
2) Gimble Buzz. Is this still an issue with the latest patch?
3) RealSense. Has anyone actually had the Obstacle avoidance work as designed? In one video I saw a gentleman was

1) I use the Yuneec adapter and 40.mm filters, because I did not want to get tripped up with the issue Freewell was having. This frees me up to buy high quality filters, and only the ones I need, not a useless Kit. @Fred Garvin also uses 40.5mm, hopefully he might share his experience as well.

2) I can answer this question since I have experience it coming and going with no apparent reason. In talking with others I think the problem seems to be on an individual gimbal basis. I believe all C23 gimbals are on the verge of buzzing, the issue is just under the surface, but most gimbals don't buzz, and these owners don't have a clue what the rest of us are talkin'bout. Yuneec has made half hearted attempts at addressing the issue, but I think their focus in on other issues. Several people have reported it comes intermittently, and it is easily cured by manually moving the gimbal thru its axis while it is on, 99% of the time this will stop the light intermittent type of buzz. I have had possibly the worst case of gimbal buzz /chatter than anyone, and have spent more time trying to figure it out, without much success. I did not start out with it, but after a FW update, in which I happened to have a 40.5mm and counter weight filter on it, the buzz appeared, and nothing seemed to make it go away. I do not know what if anything the filter and weight had to do with it, might be coincidence.

Future FW should address the problem. In the meantime I have cured my buzz with with the 2 Cent Solution to C23 Gimbal Buzz!, by adding a weight to the gimbal. This worked great for me and at least one other person. However, in the meantime, with no explanation, and no action on my part that I am aware of, my buzz has suddenly disappeared, completely, gone like it was never there, and I don't need the extra weight anymore. Best I can tell you is it is still a bit of a mystery, but it is curable when it arises.

3) RealSense works differently that one might think, depending on whether it is in Auto Pilot (Smart Mode) or a Pilot control mode like Angle or Sport. The only time RS will auto pilot around an obstacle is in Follow Me Mode (Smart Mode). Then it is tasked to keep up and will do whatever maneuvering is necessary to do so. However, if you are flying in Angle Mode or Sport Mode and approach an object, it will just stop when it sees that object and wait for you to control it around or away from the obstacle. Don't think of is as obstacle avoidance, it's more like Obstacle ABS -Automatic Braking System!
 
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1) I use the Yuneec adapter and 40.mm filters, because I did not want to get tripped up with the issue Freewell was having. This frees me up to buy high quality filters, and only the ones I need, not a useless Kit. @Fred Garvin also uses 40.5mm, hopefully he might share his experience as well........

I already had a set of 40.5’s for a little red Olympus TG-5 I keep on my bike or in the Jeep. It’s a tough little guy that can shoot underwater.....it’s great for camping, foul weather, tubing at the river.....for every place you’d in no way bring the full frame and big glass.

I have:

UV: Controversial....protect the lens? No? Do what you feel is right. Me? It’s one more layer of glass to go through.
CPL: Fine for handheld, serious PITA on the aircraft....but if you’ve got low angle light and water, it’s crucial.
ND4: 2 stops. Useless.
ND8: 3 stops. Meh....
ND16: 4 stops. Use this one ALOT. Most used.
ND32; 5 stops. Use this one a lot too, bright Texas mid day sun.
ND64: 6 stops....maybe in Alaska on a glacier at Noon.

I’m not a big filter user. Other than a CPL, I can dial in whatever I need then massage in post. I’d rather not put another layer of glass between my subject and the sensor.

However, with the C23 (or CGO3), I can’t control aperture so I’m forced into using ND’s to control shutter. Note that this is mainly with video to get down to 2x frame rate. For stills, the camera does a decent job if left to it’s own devices, then just massage in post. RAW is essential.

I have not yet been on any situation with the aerial systems....where I’m trying to produce bokeh with Depth of Field (aperture) or motion effects (shutter speed). I’m loathe to move off ISO100 because I personally have a very low tolerance for noise. Although, my D810 does very well up to ISO1200 and my D7200 up to ISO800. But that’s pushing it.
 
1) The ND filter dilemma. I read that Freewell has stopped manufacturing the 39.xx mm ND for the C23. I see that the solution that everyone WAS ( I could have missed a post or two) suggesting is to use the 40.5 mm adapter ring. I believe the "best" was the Formatt Hitech. Is that still the case?

I agree with most of what Fred has posted... particularly with the most usable ND "f-stop" range being ND 8 to ND 32 (0.6 to 1.2). The Formatt-Hitech brand is the only one I've seen that encompasses that entire range. You could conceivably go across a couple of brands, but because the actual color that each company defines as "neutral" will vary, I don't recommend it.
 
Thank you all for taking the time to answer my questions...
Now comes the fun part to see where I can find on for sale!!!
I see that B&H are awaiting stock.. Same with TI.
Ty.. First of all.. Nice Bike.. I am more of a cruiser style guy but I can appreciate a nice looking machine when I see one.
I am not looking for my license just yet.. I have seen a number of posts on how NOT to be stupid with your machine.. not over people/traffic.. under 400 ft.. not over sporting events ( like the idiot at Fenway Park in Boston the other night)
I will most likely go with the batteries and charger by Viper as they seem to have a good reputation.
The only "upgrade" I would like to do right off the bat are the ST16S antennae.

The only lingering question I have is about traveling. I am hoping someone can share their experiences with airline travel.

Again.. thank you all for taking the time to help.
I hope to be able to share some scenes soon.

Karl
 
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Thats a good link. Also keep in mind if you do intend to fly with your drone you can always call the airline and ask for specifics. I believe @RPR wrote a piece specifically about traveling with his Plus. One thing I seem to remember him saying is something to the effect that he carried a volt meter with him so he could show the voltage of the batteries when requested. Hopefully he can chime in with more
 
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Here is my answers to those questions in order.


1] You got it. Adapter comes with the Plus - find suitable filters for your needs. Be advised weight can be an issue so you will need to look for light as well as 'The Best'

2] Its a Toss up, depends who you ask, I have never had it. I know another who did for the longest then it just went away YMMV

3] It works as designed - the task for pilots is to understand how it was designed to work and not expect it to be 'thinking' device with supernatural mad pilot skills. Many of us believe while it has some usefulness it is has enough limitations that I we would not recommend to a novice looking for crash insurance.

4] Yes, not me. RPR has a good thread on how he did and what you need to know I am sure a search for 'taking an H on a Plane' should dig it up.

5] DEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP Subject. I would advise to search through the forum and get a handle on the many aspects of the Plus while you make your decisions. I would advise any one getting started to:
  1. Read about the types of batteries these aircraft use. Most newbs ruin hundreds of dollars worth of batteries treating these things like cell phones - they aint. ;)
  2. If you get a Plus - mission one will be to get a good aftermarket charger and associated adapters.
  3. Focus on flying while you search through the rest of the goodies and pick the ones that seem to fit you needs as they arrive.
  4. As a side task, take a moment to get familiar with the rules for flying these aircraft - there are two sets of rules, one for hobby and another for commercial operators you will be in the hobby class first. Do a search for the FAA and AMA websites and begin there.
And Karl, welcome to the forum and good luck. ?

Well hello my friend it has been a wild. Is because the you I enjoy my Typhoon H Pro. It has been a while but I have been through my trials and tribulations with the H. But I managed to get the **** of it and it works great.


I would like your opinion on the infrared gamble do you think it will work on the H Pro.


let me know thanks.
 
Having worked extensively with them I have a rather negative opinion about low res IR cameras.

If you’re a gynecologist at work when the lights go out they can be of some use but much further away from the subject they are grossly over priced for what they deliver.
 
Having worked extensively with them I have a rather negative opinion about low res IR cameras.

If you’re a gynecologist at work when the lights go out they can be of some use but much further away from the subject they are grossly over priced for what they deliver.
I have been drinking so I will not comment on a part of that... or will I?
Btw I would love your opinion because I have never had the chance to use one. Care to share?
 
Here’s my experience, traveling, with my H Plus.
Guide to traveling with a HEX.
 
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Btw I would love your opinion because I have never had the chance to use one. Care to share?

Resolution is what it’s all about. A low res IR camera loses image clarity quickly as it becomes more distant from the subject. Images become blurred to the point we can’t distinguish what we are looking at. Beyond 50’ or so you could not distinguish between a bull and a sheep if both were alone in an open field.

For thermal contrasts they maintain some usefulness but for SAR all you get is a heat signature in the form of a blob, and anything warm blooded provides a heat signature. If you can’t obtain enough definition to obtain a PID (positive I.D.) there’s little point in using one.

There are times I think someone bought a big lot of scrapped IR components, scrapped because it was no longer useful as of 10 years ago, as a means to extract funds from the uninitiated.
 

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