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Typhoon G, the rear motors run opposite direction than should be

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Trying to make it fly an old Typhoon G, the rear motors are running in the opposite direction than they should run, tried with GUI but the connector is not recognized by the GUI app, show as disconnected.
Is any other way to correct the rotation of the rear motors, do not want to mess with the esc controllers without knowing what to do.
The GPS, receiver, are working.
 
Trying to make it fly an old Typhoon G, the rear motors are running in the opposite direction than they should run, tried with GUI but the connector is not recognized by the GUI app, show as disconnected.
Is any other way to correct the rotation of the rear motors, do not want to mess with the esc controllers without knowing what to do.
The GPS, receiver, are working.
"but the connector is not recognized by the GUI app, show as disconnected"
1.) Are you using the USB adapter supplied by Yuneec?
2.) Are you connecting the USB BEFORE powering on the Q500?
3.) Are you using the correct version of the GUI for your computer? (Windows or MAC)
4.) Did you try updating the Drivers needed for the GUI?

"Is any other way to correct the rotation of the rear motors, "
Using the GUI is the best way to ensure all four motors are correctly assigned. It's kind of a long discussion, but for now please understand the direction of rotation is only PART of what proper assignment does.
 
Thank you for your promt answer, checked the USB adapter with other Q500 and is OK.
The problem with the G appears to be the thin, white, black, red wires. That is why am looking for other option besides de GUI.
Can not figure what can be the problem with the wiring.
 
Thank you for your promt answer, checked the USB adapter with other Q500 and is OK.
The problem with the G appears to be the thin, white, black, red wires. That is why am looking for other option besides de GUI.
Can not figure what can be the problem with the wiring.
"The problem with the G appears to be the thin, white, black, red wires."
OK. I'm on a bit of "thin ice" here because I've never owned an actual Typhoon G.
But, assuming the Reciever/GUI Connection is the same as a Q500, there should be four wires. There should be a blue wire between the white and black. Please check if there are four pins, four wires, and each pin is fully inserted in the connector. If you can see any of the pin on the side with the wires, the pin is not fully inserted.

GUI.jpg
 
Right, the connector on the G, is the same as the Q500 with four pins and 4 wires including the blue. It seem the problem is the wiring inside the body.
 
You can use Attachment 44 (Typhoon Q Series Receiver Connections) of the PDF document attached to Way To Fix Drones project to ensure the wires are properly connected on the main board. Note the Q500 is on the left side of the page.
Note the wires are not soldered to the board in the same order they are inserted in the connector. And the wire colors are not the same on each side of the connector. And that Black is "Positive" and Red is "Ground" on the actual board. Please be sure to study the diagram carefully. Yuneec really worked overtime to make this as confusing as possible.
Also look to see if any of the wires may have been cut or crushed during previous maintenance.
 
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Get to check the G with the GUI, a connector was the problem. On the sensor page everything is green, but when I try to esc align the motors cannot make it, it show “esc align failed“.
Checking the motors at the green circles they are not aligned with the correspondent number, when press the #1 runs other motor, the only one that is correct is the #3.
Do not know if running the firmware can fix the problem.
 
Do you get any progress on alignment? IE, does #1 respond to assignment? #2? Sounds like you have at least one bad ESC. It also sounds possible the ESCs were physically returned to wrong positions after some previous maintenance. But wrong positions should not inhibit re-assignment to the current location.
Which motor runs when you press #1?
 
When Yuneec shipped the Q500, they used different color wires for front/back ESCs. There are two of each, of course, so just checking the color can't prove they are in the correct position left to right. But you can check to ensure all four are at least correct for front/rear. Front should have black/white. Rear should have black/red.

ESC.jpg
 
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Just check the front and rear esc controllers they are wright, but the black wire on the esc motor #1 was loose, after solder the wire, it can not initialize the G, red light flashing , guess the esc is the problem, or the main board controller. I decided is not worth to put money and time in this drone, will going to to use the good parts in my other Q‘s as needed.
Appreciate your help , and am sure that with your advice will make it fly, but for now am just to to leave it grounded.
 
Just check the front and rear esc controllers they are wright, but the black wire on the esc motor #1 was loose, after solder the wire, it can not initialize the G, red light flashing , guess the esc is the problem, or the main board controller. I decided is not worth to put money and time in this drone, will going to to use the good parts in my other Q‘s as needed.
Appreciate your help , and am sure that with your advice will make it fly, but for now am just to to leave it grounded.
Using it for spare parts would be a good purpose for it. Or even if you ever crash one of the other drones, use that one as a source of parts for this one. That's exactly how I gradually moved into repairing drones as a hobby instead of flying drones.

For curiosity, when you said "the black wire on the esc motor #1 was loose", did you mean the small black wire to the LED? The larger black wire that runs to the mainboard? Or the one to the motor?
 
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From the 3 wires connected to the esc (red, blue, and black)the black was the disconnected one.
That would explain a lot of what you saw earlier. But it doesn't explain why it is now blocking the initialization. If you decide to work more with it you may want to check to see if any solder got in the wrong place. You mainly just have to look. All three wires are connected when no power is on the ESC which makes using a multimeter less revealing than usual.
A quick look at the GUI can confirm the initialization problem is #1 motor instead of some other unexpected change.
 
Thank‘s again, what I noticed, this drone had been “manipulated“ a lot, bad soldering in at least 2 esc and at main board, did do not feel confident to use it with the camera attached.
Just finish to disassembly this G and have the spare parts for other birds
Appreciate all your help, but I was wasting your time and mine also.
 

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