Typhoon H doing bizarre things

[FlFireMedic]

I recently purchased a used typhoon h. It flew amazing for several flights. Then it started to have gremlins lol. When rotating left it would climb forward as it turned and would dive backwards when your were turned right. Now it is just a hand full and almost impossible to fly. I did a factory reset and updated firmware but the controller still appears to be mixing channels.

Any suggestions

 

[WTFDproject]

Open the Final output display of your ST16 (quick double tap of the volts Icon). Ensure rate slider if full up. Move each control stick, one at a time, and ensure ONLY ONE scale moves. Refer to the chart in Attachment 36 (ST16 Signal Processing Overview) of "Way To Fix Drones project" to determine the normal ranges for each stick, which scale should respond to which stick, and other information related to the normal mixing of channels.

Screenshots of your Channel Settings pages may be useful if you are SURE you can access those pages without accidentally making changes. This is not recommended if you are not familiar with this system.

Uploading flight logs might help to see what is getting mixed.

Factory Reset normally clears mixed channels. If may be necessary to do another factory reset, followed IMMEDIATELY by selecting "OFF" for the "Advanced Mode" switch in "Other Settings". This will disable the Channel Settings menu.

 

[DoomMeister]

Double tap the Volts icon on the ST16 (you can leave the aircraft off) and a Channel Output display will appear.

Set the Rate slider to full rabbit.

As you apply yaw you should only see Ch.4 change. Full left should read 80%, Center should be 0%, and full right should read -80%. It definitely sounds like yaw was mixed into the Throttle on Ch.1. If that is what is happening, create a new model and bind to it, then check the outputs again. If you are still having the same issue a full factory reset needs to be performed.

 

[WTFDproject]

@FlFireMedic,
Please post a screenshot of your update versions page, with the drone on and bound. It would be interesting to know what versions you are on, and give us a chance to see if everything matches.

 

[FlFireMedic]

Double tap the Volts icon on the ST16 (you can leave the aircraft off) and a Channel Output display will appear.
View attachment 23701
Set the Rate slider to full rabbit.

As you apply yaw you should only see Ch.4 change. Full left should read 80%, Center should be 0%, and full right should read -80%. It definitely sounds like yaw was mixed into the Throttle on Ch.1. If that is what is happening, create a new model and bind to it, then check the outputs again. If you are still having the same issue a full factory reset needs to be performed.

 

[FlFireMedic]

@FlFireMedic,
Please post a screenshot of your update versions page, with the drone on and bound. It would be interesting to know what versions you are on, and give us a chance to see if everything matches.

 

[DoomMeister]

The following information is the Channel Output information you should see with the Rate slider at full rabbit in parentheses and at full turtle in square brackets. Buttons are when activated, sticks are left center then right or down center and then up, sliders are down then up, switches are up middle and down, and knobs are left middle then right.

Ch.1) Throttle - B1 (-25%) J1 (0%, 50%, 100%) [20%, 50%, 80%]

Ch.2) Aileron - J4 (100%, 0%, -100%) [60%, 0%, -60%]

Ch.3) Elevator - J3 (-100%, 0%, 100%) [-60%, 0%, 60%]

Ch.4) Rudder - J2 (80%, 0%, -80%) [48%, 0%, -48%]

Ch.5) Mode Sw. - S4 (100%, 0%, -100%)

Ch.6) RTH - S4 (0%, 0%, 150%)

Ch.7) Tilt Sld. - K2 (100%, 0%, -100%)

Ch.8) Pan Kb. - K1 (100%, 0%, -100%)

Ch.9) Tilt Mode - S1 (10%, 10%, 100%)

Ch.10) Pan Mode - S2 (-100%, -40%, 100%)

Ch.11) Gear Sw. - S5 (-100%, 100%)

Ch.12) Aux Btn - B2 (-100%)

Note that the Mode switch S4 is the only thing that affects more than one channel. If any others do you have mixed channels and it is not safe to fly the aircraft.

 

[FlFireMedic]

The following information is the Channel Output information you should see with the Rate slider at full rabbit in parentheses and at full turtle in square brackets. Buttons are when activated, sticks are left center then right or down center and then up, sliders are down then up, switches are up middle and down, and knobs are left middle then right.

Ch.1) Throttle - B1 (-25%) J1 (0%, 50%, 100%) [20%, 50%, 80%]

Ch.2) Aileron - J4 (100%, 0%, -100%) [60%, 0%, -60%]

Ch.3) Elevator - J3 (-100%, 0%, 100%) [-60%, 0%, 60%]

Ch.4) Rudder - J2 (80%, 0%, -80%) [48%, 0%, -48%]

Ch.5) Mode Sw. - S4 (100%, 0%, -100%)

Ch.6) RTH - S4 (0%, 0%, 150%)

Ch.7) Tilt Sld. - K2 (100%, 0%, -100%)

Ch.8) Pan Kb. - K1 (100%, 0%, -100%)

Ch.9) Tilt Mode - S1 (10%, 10%, 100%)

Ch.10) Pan Mode - S2 (-100%, -40%, 100%)

Ch.11) Gear Sw. - S5 (-100%, 100%)

Ch.12) Aux Btn - B2 (-100%)

Note that the Mode switch S4 is the only thing that affects more than one channel. If any others do you have mixed channels and it is not safe to fly the aircraft.

When I move the rudder the elevator goes also. There is no mixing set up in the advanced settings. I have factory restored and updates firmware but the mixing will not go away. Don’t know what to to

 

[Vaklin]

The problem is mechanical, due to poor quality of ST16. Open the controller and you will see dancing potenciometers. Fix them, perform propper calibration, check stick responses and fly with fun.

 

[FlFireMedic]

The problem is mechanical, due to poor quality of ST16. Open the controller and you will see dancing potenciometers. Fix them, perform propper calibration, check stick responses and fly with fun.

What is dancing potenciomerers?

 

[DoomMeister]

Seeing your Channel output with right rudder applied and your description of losing altitude with right rudder you have mixed channels and also are set to mode 1 for flight control.

That is why you are seeing Ch.3 change with rudder input. You need to do a factory reset on the ST16.

 

[Vaklin]

Not proper fixed mechanicaly to the case.

Open and you'll understand very fast.

 

[WTFDproject]

Versions don't show any conflicts at all. But that, in itself, is useful information.

If you are in normal "Mode 2", and channels are mixed, this is what you would see in channel settings when you select "Ele" on the right hand side of the screen:


This is what "normal" should look like for the "Ele" screen:

 

[FlFireMedic]

Versions don't show any conflicts at all. But that, in itself, is useful information.

If you are in normal "Mode 2", and channels are mixed, this is what you would see in channel settings when you select "Ele" on the right hand side of the screen:
View attachment 23706

This is what "normal" should look like for the "Ele" screen:
View attachment 23707

That is what the screen looks like. I even tried to make a duplicate model and set a channel mixing setting to cancel it out but any time the rudder stick is moved the elevator goes also. I even just did a factory reset and it is still occurring

 

[WTFDproject]

Let's try this.
Delete the duplicate model.
Select the original model.
Go to the "Ele" page of Channel settings.
Tap on the orange "J2" square.
Select "Deactivate" from the menu that pops up.
Exit Channel Settings
Check the channel out put display again.

 

[FlFireMedic]

Let's try this.
Delete the duplicate model.
Select the original model.
Go to the "Ele" page of Channel settings.
Tap on the orange "J2" square.
Select "Deactivate" from the menu that pops up.
Exit Channel Settings
Check the channel out put display again.

There is no orange box

 

[FlFireMedic]

Not proper fixed mechanicaly to the case.

Open and you'll understand very fast.

Inside of controller is intact. Nothing appears loose or out of
Place

 

[WTFDproject]

Check "Rud"

There is no orange box

Check "Rud".

 

[FlFireMedic]

Check "Rud"

Check "Rud".

 

[FlFireMedic]

Hardware issue with controller?