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typhoon H won't respond to controller

Joined
Dec 11, 2018
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The last time I flew ( a few weeks ago ) my right side control (J3) wouldn't work now I can't get my typhoon H to respond at my ST16 at all. screen says ready to go but none of my thumb controllers work. WTF can anybody help me
 
Check the controls in the hardware monitor.
 
I did check hardware monitor, J3 wasn't responding at all still isn't but all of the other controls appear to be working fine, I can pan and tilt camera and things, last time I flew I could take off and fly around I just didn't have aileron now it won' take off at all, probably better if it doesn't until I gain full control
 
DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS!

On the ST-16 select Channel Settings.

Put the Rate Control Slider to full rabbit.

On the right you will find the channels, select Chan. 2. You should see J4 light up on the left for Aileron control. As you move the right stick to the left the value at the bottom center should read 0% to 100% at full deflection, and 0% to -100% as you move to the right.

Now select Chan. 3. J3 should light up on the left for Elevator control. The values at the bottom center should be 0% to -100% as you pull down on the right stick, and 0% to 100% as you push up.

Exit Channel Settings by pressing the Back Arrow. Report the results from viewing the Channel Settings for the right stick.
 
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DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS!

On the ST-16 select Channel Settings.

Put the Rate Control Slider to full rabbit.

On the right you will find the channels, select Chan. 2. You should see J4 light up on the left for Aileron control. As you move the right stick to the left the value at the bottom center should read 0% to 100% at full deflection, and 0% to -100% as you move to the right.

Now select Chan. 3. J3 should light up on the left for Elevator control. The values at the bottom center should be 0% to -100% as you pull down on the right stick, and 0% to 100% as you push up.

Exit Channel Settings by pressing the Back Arrow. Report the results from viewing the Channel Settings for the right stick.

Select channel 3 or did you mean “select elev”, sir Doom?

Best to be precise when dealing with channel settings.

Jeff
 
Last edited:
Another option is to create a new profile and once bound, see if everything responds the way it should. Had a problem with one of my H's where things were not responding properly. Tried lots of things to fix the problem, in the end creating the new profile fixed everything.
 
Select channel 3 or did you mean “select elev”, sir Doom?

Best to be precise when dealing with channel settings.

Jeff

It is actually either one, but the bold type is “Ele” and “Ch3” is in lighter type at the upper right of the soft button.

image.jpg

You are very right about being precise when dealing with the Channel Settings Jeff! Thanks for having me double check myself.
 
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It is actually either one, but the bold type is “Ele” and “Ch3” is in lighter type at the upper right of the soft button.

View attachment 16107

You are very right about being precise when dealing with the Channel Settings Jeff! Thanks for having me double check myself.

I learned something too, DM! I never noticed the channel numbers before. Hence why I was keen on differentiating between ELEV and J3.

Wow! I see them now. Good thing I have updated my glasses!

Thanks Doom!

Jeff
 
Another option is to create a new profile and once bound, see if everything responds the way it should. Had a problem with one of my H's where things were not responding properly. Tried lots of things to fix the problem, in the end creating the new profile fixed everything.

You are correct that creating a new model to bind to can fix a lot of whacky problems with the controller.

I wanted to have him check the Channel Settings to see if something got mid-assigned and also to see what readings he was getting at the bottom. I am suspecting a bad connection to the potentiometer/s on the right stick and this screen shows more info than the Hardware Monitor.
 
I learned something too, DM! I never noticed the channel numbers before. Hence why I was keen on differentiating between ELEV and J3.

Wow! I see them now. Good thing I have updated my glasses!

Thanks Doom!

Jeff

They are hard to see with polarized glasses on. :cool: Or snow blindness. ?
 
Be sure that before you begin the calibration, the rate sliders are on the middle position that happened to me as well.
 
The last time I flew ( a few weeks ago ) my right side control (J3) wouldn't work now I can't get my typhoon H to respond at my ST16 at all. screen says ready to go but none of my thumb controllers work. WTF can anybody help me
DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS!

On the ST-16 select Channel Settings.

Put the Rate Control Slider to full rabbit.

On the right you will find the channels, select Chan. 2. You should see J4 light up on the left for Aileron control. As you move the right stick to the left the value at the bottom center should read 0% to 100% at full deflection, and 0% to -100% as you move to the right.

Now select Chan. 3. J3 should light up on the left for Elevator control. The values at the bottom center should be 0% to -100% as you pull down on the right stick, and 0% to 100% as you push up.

Exit Channel Settings by pressing the Back Arrow. Report the results from viewing the Channel Settings for the right stick.
Well I contacted Yuneec they replied with this emailtyphoon.JPGso I tried it and it worked (I think) J3 is responding in settings so I went out to try it and controller loaded model and camera pretty fast actually BUT Drone wouldn't start????? I already created a new model to bind to yesterday didn't help but now that I have performed a recalibration maybe I should give that another try. Thanks for the advice "DoomMeister", tomorrow I will give that a try and post the results.
You know this isn't the first time my controller has stopped CONTROLLING its happened many times anyone else have that problem with the ST16
 
If the right stick isn't returning to exactly zero on the Hardware Monitor graph, then the motors won't start and you should hear a rapid beeping from the H.

I think you have been given a bum steer by Tech Support. A calibration is the last thing to perform after making certain the sticks are not oxidized.

Go back to Hardware Monitor and "stir" the sticks aggressively, then slowly. What happens? Is there a sluggish response? Does the motion on the graphs look jerky? Does the graph return to exactly zero every time or does it sometimes stay a bit off of zero? Those are indications the sticks are oxidized and need cleaning.
 

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