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Understanding real sense

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I am sure not many people use real sense. But if you do I would like all your input please.
I'm getting ready to test mine today just for the fun of it but I think I will take the camera off first just in case.


What are your experiences with realsense?
I'm still curious about all the switch positions.
Thanks
Keith Kuhn
 
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Hi Keith. I started with a fuel heli. It had a cargo capacity of about 16 pounds. It had a 60 inch rotor with a full one hp fuel motor. Back then, in 2000 there weren't any electric helis available and a few year later the electrics were just as large and powerful as my fuel heli. The carrying capacity was necessary to carry the batteres, camcorder and transiever which were not yet miniturized. There were no sensor for collision control. You had to fly it fully 100% of the time. I've had, since then, micro helis w/ 7" rotor for indoor flying, but they did not have camera or sensors. Before I even attempted to fly a heli, I started with a flight simulator. I practiced for months before I even built my heli. (these helis were kits and U provided the motor, the servos, gyro, and batteries, and the kit contained the control members, the frame members which needed to be assembled, and sometimes a body.) Without an instructor to guide me I would never have even attempted to fly a heli of this size and power. It was a simulator that gave me the confidence. It was flying hundreds of hours and thousands of crashes on a simulator that gave me the confidence to take that first flight. I flew in open fields with noone around for safety reasons. This 5 ft rotor spins at up to 3200 rpm with a one hp motor burning aircraft fuel. In a relatively short time, radio contolled aircraft has advanced significantly.
My origninal experience with RS and the H plus was very positive, RS and RTH I absolutely depended on every time I flew any distance for the first year of flying my H plus. But, before I ever flew the H plus, I read the instructions and understood how RTH and obstical avoidance works. First, as U say, U must pay attention to the right hand set of 3 switches. The Center switch turns RS on and off, and the one just to the right of it controls the flite modes. The up position of the Flight Mode switch is Sport Mode and is the fastest reacting and highest speed mode which turns off RS. RealSense cannot respond fast enough at higher speeds and therefore is turned off when the mode switch is set to Sport Mode. Another limitation of RS is that it only has forward looking sensors and is limited to what it can sense.while moving forward Solid walls, full leaf branches, trees, solid fences, and buildings it can sense, but small objects, thin objects such as poles and utility wires and moving objects it does not sense consistently. It also does not sense side to side and therefore is only useful when operating moving forward in level flight. It does not see above or below the drone and is flying blind when climbing and descending. Even with these limitation, if U are aware of them and fly accordingly, it has been an extremely useful aid. Maybe I was somewhat lucky also, but for the first year of flying, everytime I flew more than 500 ft away, and sometimes even less, I would be watching my monitor and would look up and loose track of the drone, and I totally depended on RTH and RS to get my drone back. I didn't use it sometimes or most of the time, but, actually every time I flew. I've had the drone for a little more than one and a half years and never had any kind of an incidence even close to a crash of any kind except for an incidence of wind when landing where after landing, I didn't shut down quickly enough and a very slight gust tipped my craft over after it had sat down because the blades had not shut down completely. No damage was done, and I continued to use the same blades for a year and a half. They were still quiet and very efficient. Since then I developed the habit of using the red kill button just before setting down and have never had that occur again. But I also, when landing in unsteady conditions, gusts or dirt and sand, I alway handcatch my bird. But getting back to the RS, I always make sure before I take off, that the switches are set correctly, the takeoff position is recorded, the return to home heighth is above any surrounding obsticals such as trees, and my landing area is clear of any overhead obsticals such as trees so when my craft returns home it has a clear path down back to my landing spot.. As a rule, since the RS only sees forward, I tend to fly it forward like a fixed wing aircraft and I don't worry about what it can't see side to side because I'm not going to crash into anything that isn't in front of the aircraft. Then, the only 2 areas U must be concerned with is what is above U and what is below. Anytime U are climbing or decending, U are in danger with this system, so fly in a level manner and climb or decend only when U are either absolutely sure nothing is above or below U or U are close enough to the craft to be sure it is safe to climb or decend. Either way, is it only common sense not to depend too much on the sensors, since they always have weaknesses. Having said that, I have depended heavily on RTH and the RS sensor for over a year of flying and hundreds of flights, but with careful planning on my flying area and most importantly my clear landing area. Until recently! I have now, not been able to use RS because when its on, my craft frequently will not climb, descend or fly forward. In order to get it to fly, I'll take it up 200 ft in wide open space and turn it on and it will not move in any direction. It just freezes until I shut it off. Sometimes it does fly but will suddenly react and freeze for no apparrent reason. But I had to stop using it.
So that's my take on RS. For a year or so I used it consistently, and now until I find some answers, I do not use it at all...Ray
 
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Hi Keith. I started with a fuel heli. It had a cargo capacity of about 16 pounds. It had a 60 inch rotor with a full one hp fuel motor. Back then, in 2000 there weren't any electric helis available and a few year later the electrics were just as large and powerful as my fuel heli. The carrying capacity was necessary to carry the batteres, camcorder and transiever which were not yet miniturized. There were no sensor for collision control. You had to fly it fully 100% of the time. I've had, since then, micro helis w/ 7" rotor for indoor flying, but they did not have camera or sensors. Before I even attempted to fly a heli, I started with a flight simulator. I practiced for months before I even built my heli. (these helis were kits and U provided the motor, the servos, gyro, and batteries, and the kit contained the control members, the frame members which needed to be assembled, and sometimes a body.) Without an instructor to guide me I would never have even attempted to fly a heli of this size and power. It was a simulator that gave me the confidence. It was flying hundreds of hours and thousands of crashes on a simulator that gave me the confidence to take that first flight. I flew in open fields with noone around for safety reasons. This 5 ft rotor spins at up to 3200 rpm with a one hp motor burning aircraft fuel. In a relatively short time, radio contolled aircraft has advanced significantly.
My origninal experience with RS and the H plus was very positive, RS and RTH I absolutely depended on every time I flew any distance for the first year of flying my H plus. But, before I ever flew the H plus, I read the instructions and understood how RTH and obstical avoidance works. First, as U say, U must pay attention to the right hand set of 3 switches. The Center switch turns RS on and off, and the one just to the right of it controls the flite modes. The up position of the Flight Mode switch is Sport Mode and is the fastest reacting and highest speed mode which turns off RS. RealSense cannot respond fast enough at higher speeds and therefore is turned off when the mode switch is set to Sport Mode. Another limitation of RS is that it only has forward looking sensors and is limited to what it can sense.while moving forward Solid walls, full leaf branches, trees, solid fences, and buildings it can sense, but small objects, thin objects such as poles and utility wires and moving objects it does not sense consistently. It also does not sense side to side and therefore is only useful when operating moving forward in level flight. It does not see above or below the drone and is flying blind when climbing and descending. Even with these limitation, if U are aware of them and fly accordingly, it has been an extremely useful aid. Maybe I was somewhat lucky also, but for the first year of flying, everytime I flew more than 500 ft away, and sometimes even less, I would be watching my monitor and would look up and loose track of the drone, and I totally depended on RTH and RS to get my drone back. I didn't use it sometimes or most of the time, but, actually every time I flew. I've had the drone for a little more than one and a half years and never had any kind of an incidence even close to a crash of any kind except for an incidence of wind when landing where after landing, I didn't shut down quickly enough and a very slight gust tipped my craft over after it had sat down because the blades had not shut down completely. No damage was done, and I continued to use the same blades for a year and a half. They were still quiet and very efficient. Since then I developed the habit of using the red kill button just before setting down and have never had that occur again. But I also, when landing in unsteady conditions, gusts or dirt and sand, I alway handcatch my bird. But getting back to the RS, I always make sure before I take off, that the switches are set correctly, the takeoff position is recorded, the return to home heighth is above any surrounding obsticals such as trees, and my landing area is clear of any overhead obsticals such as trees so when my craft returns home it has a clear path down back to my landing spot.. As a rule, since the RS only sees forward, I tend to fly it forward like a fixed wing aircraft and I don't worry about what it can't see side to side because I'm not going to crash into anything that isn't in front of the aircraft. Then, the only 2 areas U must be concerned with is what is above U and what is below. Anytime U are climbing or decending, U are in danger with this system, so fly in a level manner and climb or decend only when U are either absolutely sure nothing is above or below U or U are close enough to the craft to be sure it is safe to climb or decend. Either way, is it only common sense not to depend too much on the sensors, since they always have weaknesses. Having said that, I have depended heavily on RTH and the RS sensor for over a year of flying and hundreds of flights, but with careful planning on my flying area and most importantly my clear landing area. Until recently! I have now, not been able to use RS because when its on, my craft frequently will not climb, descend or fly forward. In order to get it to fly, I'll take it up 200 ft in wide open space and turn it on and it will not move in any direction. It just freezes until I shut it off. Sometimes it does fly but will suddenly react and freeze for no apparrent reason. But I had to stop using it.
So that's my take on RS. For a year or so I used it consistently, and now until I find some answers, I do not use it at all...Ray
I must read all that you wrote very carefully.

Thanks Keith
 
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Hi Keith. I started with a fuel heli. It had a cargo capacity of about 16 pounds. It had a 60 inch rotor with a full one hp fuel motor. Back then, in 2000 there weren't any electric helis available and a few year later the electrics were just as large and powerful as my fuel heli. The carrying capacity was necessary to carry the batteres, camcorder and transiever which were not yet miniturized. There were no sensor for collision control. You had to fly it fully 100% of the time. I've had, since then, micro helis w/ 7" rotor for indoor flying, but they did not have camera or sensors. Before I even attempted to fly a heli, I started with a flight simulator. I practiced for months before I even built my heli. (these helis were kits and U provided the motor, the servos, gyro, and batteries, and the kit contained the control members, the frame members which needed to be assembled, and sometimes a body.) Without an instructor to guide me I wuld never have even attempted to fly a heli of this size and power. It was a simulator that gave me the confidence. It was flying hundreds of hours and thousands of crashes on a simulator that gave me the confidence to take that first flight. I flew in open fields with noone around for safety reasons. This 5 ft rotor spins at up to 3200 rpm with a one hp motor burning aircraft fuel. In a relatively short time, radio contolled aircraft has advanced significantly.
My origninal experience with RS and the H plus was very positive, RS and RTH I absolutely depended on every time I flew any distance for the first year of flying my H plus. But, before I ever flew the H plus, I read the instructions and understood how RTH and obstical avoidance works. First, as U say, U must pay attention to the right hand set of 3 switches. The Center switch turns RS on and off, and the one just to the right of it controls the flite modes. The up position of the Flight Mode switch is Sport Mode and is the fastest reacting and highest speed mode which turns off RS. RealSense cannot respond fast enough at higher speeds and therefore is turned off when the mode switch is set to Sport Mode. Another limitation of RS is that it only has forward looking sensors and is limited to what it can sense.while moving forward Solid walls, full leaf branches, trees, solid fences, and buildings it can sense, but small objects, thin objects such as poles and utility wires and moving objects it does not sense consistently. It also does not sense side to side and therefore is only useful when operating moving forward in level flight. It does not see above or below the drone and is flying blind when climbing and descending. Even with these limitation, if U are aware of them and fly accordingly, it has been an extremely useful aid. Maybe I was somewhat lucky also, but for the first year of flying, everytime I flew more than 500 ft away, and sometimes even less, I would be watching my monitor and would look up and loose track of the drone, and I totally depended on RTH and RS to get my drone back. I didn't use it sometimes or most of the time, but, actually every time I flew. I've had the drone for a little more than one and a half years and never had any kind of an incidence even close to a crash of any kind except for an incidence of wind when landing where after landing, I didn't shut down quickly enough and a very slight gust tipped my craft over after it had sat down because the blades had not shut down completely. No damage was done, and I continued to use the same blades for a year and a half. They were still quiet and very efficient. Since then I developed the habit of using the red kill button just before setting down and have never had that occur again. But I also, when landing in unsteady conditions, gusts or dirt and sand, I alway handcatch my bird. But getting back to the RS, I always make sure before I take off, that the switches are set correctly, the takeoff position is recorded, the return to home heighth is above any surrounding obsticals such as trees, and my landing area is clear of any overhead obsticals such as trees so when my craft returns home it has a clear path down back to my landing spot.. As a rule, since the RS only sees forward, I tend to fly it forward like a fixed wing aircraft and I don't worry about what it can't see side to side because I'm not going to crash into anything that isn't in front of the aircraft. Then, the only 2 areas U must be concerned with is what is above U and what is below. Anytime U are climbing or decending, U are in danger with this system, so fly in a level manner and climb or decend only when U are either absolutely sure nothing is above or below U or U are close enough to the craft to be sure it is safe to climb or decend. Either way, is it only common sense not to depend too much on the sensors, since they always have weaknesses. Having said that, I have depended heavily on RTH and the RS sensor for over a year of flying and hundreds of flights, but with careful planning on my flying area and most importantly my clear landing area. Until recently! I have now, not been able to use RS because when its on, my craft frequently will not climb, descend or fly forward. In order to get it to fly, I'll take it up 200 ft in wide open space and turn it on and it will not move in any direction. It just freezes until I shut it off. Sometimes it does fly but will suddenly react and freeze for no apparrent reason. But I had to stop using it.
So that's my take on RS. For a year or so I used it consistently, and now until I find some answers, I do not use it at all...Ray

Beautiful Ray you said a lot I read everything you just stated.
Your bird has sport mode.
I believe you said you have the pro H or the plus typhoon H I'm not sure.
My 480 has Smart Mode on the toggle switch. I usually always use my RTH .
I love when you talked about your helis especially the one with the five foot rotor. I guess I just wanted to play with real sense a little bit because I never use it due to the fact that Yuneec is kind of disappeared and if something happens it's getting harder and harder to get parts.
so therefore I really don't need any crashes if you know what I mean. I have had my share over the last 4 years. I flew the Drone a little bit today with real sense but I made sure it was well above the trees just in case. basically it was in follow me mode which it did .
I guess I really do want to see if it will avoid and go around or up and over certain trees.
I certainly do understand about wires small tree limbs and branches Etc
I sure admire all the experience you have with all your simulators Etc.
Thanks Keith

Hi Keith. I started with a fuel heli. It had a cargo capacity of about 16 pounds. It had a 60 inch rotor with a full one hp fuel motor. Back then, in 2000 there weren't any electric helis available and a few year later the electrics were just as large and powerful as my fuel heli. The carrying capacity was necessary to carry the batteres, camcorder and transiever which were not yet miniturized. There were no sensor for collision control. You had to fly it fully 100% of the time. I've had, since then, micro helis w/ 7" rotor for indoor flying, but they did not have camera or sensors. Before I even attempted to fly a heli, I started with a flight simulator. I practiced for months before I even built my heli. (these helis were kits and U provided the motor, the servos, gyro, and batteries, and the kit contained the control members, the frame members which needed to be assembled, and sometimes a body.) Without an instructor to guide me I would never have even attempted to fly a heli of this size and power. It was a simulator that gave me the confidence. It was flying hundreds of hours and thousands of crashes on a simulator that gave me the confidence to take that first flight. I flew in open fields with noone around for safety reasons. This 5 ft rotor spins at up to 3200 rpm with a one hp motor burning aircraft fuel. In a relatively short time, radio contolled aircraft has advanced significantly.
My origninal experience with RS and the H plus was very positive, RS and RTH I absolutely depended on every time I flew any distance for the first year of flying my H plus. But, before I ever flew the H plus, I read the instructions and understood how RTH and obstical avoidance works. First, as U say, U must pay attention to the right hand set of 3 switches. The Center switch turns RS on and off, and the one just to the right of it controls the flite modes. The up position of the Flight Mode switch is Sport Mode and is the fastest reacting and highest speed mode which turns off RS. RealSense cannot respond fast enough at higher speeds and therefore is turned off when the mode switch is set to Sport Mode. Another limitation of RS is that it only has forward looking sensors and is limited to what it can sense.while moving forward Solid walls, full leaf branches, trees, solid fences, and buildings it can sense, but small objects, thin objects such as poles and utility wires and moving objects it does not sense consistently. It also does not sense side to side and therefore is only useful when operating moving forward in level flight. It does not see above or below the drone and is flying blind when climbing and descending. Even with these limitation, if U are aware of them and fly accordingly, it has been an extremely useful aid. Maybe I was somewhat lucky also, but for the first year of flying, everytime I flew more than 500 ft away, and sometimes even less, I would be watching my monitor and would look up and loose track of the drone, and I totally depended on RTH and RS to get my drone back. I didn't use it sometimes or most of the time, but, actually every time I flew. I've had the drone for a little more than one and a half years and never had any kind of an incidence even close to a crash of any kind except for an incidence of wind when landing where after landing, I didn't shut down quickly enough and a very slight gust tipped my craft over after it had sat down because the blades had not shut down completely. No damage was done, and I continued to use the same blades for a year and a half. They were still quiet and very efficient. Since then I developed the habit of using the red kill button just before setting down and have never had that occur again. But I also, when landing in unsteady conditions, gusts or dirt and sand, I alway handcatch my bird. But getting back to the RS, I always make sure before I take off, that the switches are set correctly, the takeoff position is recorded, the return to home heighth is above any surrounding obsticals such as trees, and my landing area is clear of any overhead obsticals such as trees so when my craft returns home it has a clear path down back to my landing spot.. As a rule, since the RS only sees forward, I tend to fly it forward like a fixed wing aircraft and I don't worry about what it can't see side to side because I'm not going to crash into anything that isn't in front of the aircraft. Then, the only 2 areas U must be concerned with is what is above U and what is below. Anytime U are climbing or decending, U are in danger with this system, so fly in a level manner and climb or decend only when U are either absolutely sure nothing is above or below U or U are close enough to the craft to be sure it is safe to climb or decend. Either way, is it only common sense not to depend too much on the sensors, since they always have weaknesses. Having said that, I have depended heavily on RTH and the RS sensor for over a year of flying and hundreds of flights, but with careful planning on my flying area and most importantly my clear landing area. Until recently! I have now, not been able to use RS because when its on, my craft frequently will not climb, descend or fly forward. In order to get it to fly, I'll take it up 200 ft in wide open space and turn it on and it will not move in any direction. It just freezes until I shut it off. Sometimes it does fly but will suddenly react and freeze for no apparrent reason. But I had to stop using it.
So that's my take on RS. For a year or so I used it consistently, and now until I find some answers, I do not use it at all...Ray
 
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Hi Keith. I started with a fuel heli. It had a cargo capacity of about 16 pounds. It had a 60 inch rotor with a full one hp fuel motor. Back then, in 2000 there weren't any electric helis available and a few year later the electrics were just as large and powerful as my fuel heli. The carrying capacity was necessary to carry the batteres, camcorder and transiever which were not yet miniturized. There were no sensor for collision control. You had to fly it fully 100% of the time. I've had, since then, micro helis w/ 7" rotor for indoor flying, but they did not have camera or sensors. Before I even attempted to fly a heli, I started with a flight simulator. I practiced for months before I even built my heli. (these helis were kits and U provided the motor, the servos, gyro, and batteries, and the kit contained the control members, the frame members which needed to be assembled, and sometimes a body.) Without an instructor to guide me I would never have even attempted to fly a heli of this size and power. It was a simulator that gave me the confidence. It was flying hundreds of hours and thousands of crashes on a simulator that gave me the confidence to take that first flight. I flew in open fields with noone around for safety reasons. This 5 ft rotor spins at up to 3200 rpm with a one hp motor burning aircraft fuel. In a relatively short time, radio contolled aircraft has advanced significantly.
My origninal experience with RS and the H plus was very positive, RS and RTH I absolutely depended on every time I flew any distance for the first year of flying my H plus. But, before I ever flew the H plus, I read the instructions and understood how RTH and obstical avoidance works. First, as U say, U must pay attention to the right hand set of 3 switches. The Center switch turns RS on and off, and the one just to the right of it controls the flite modes. The up position of the Flight Mode switch is Sport Mode and is the fastest reacting and highest speed mode which turns off RS. RealSense cannot respond fast enough at higher speeds and therefore is turned off when the mode switch is set to Sport Mode. Another limitation of RS is that it only has forward looking sensors and is limited to what it can sense.while moving forward Solid walls, full leaf branches, trees, solid fences, and buildings it can sense, but small objects, thin objects such as poles and utility wires and moving objects it does not sense consistently. It also does not sense side to side and therefore is only useful when operating moving forward in level flight. It does not see above or below the drone and is flying blind when climbing and descending. Even with these limitation, if U are aware of them and fly accordingly, it has been an extremely useful aid. Maybe I was somewhat lucky also, but for the first year of flying, everytime I flew more than 500 ft away, and sometimes even less, I would be watching my monitor and would look up and loose track of the drone, and I totally depended on RTH and RS to get my drone back. I didn't use it sometimes or most of the time, but, actually every time I flew. I've had the drone for a little more than one and a half years and never had any kind of an incidence even close to a crash of any kind except for an incidence of wind when landing where after landing, I didn't shut down quickly enough and a very slight gust tipped my craft over after it had sat down because the blades had not shut down completely. No damage was done, and I continued to use the same blades for a year and a half. They were still quiet and very efficient. Since then I developed the habit of using the red kill button just before setting down and have never had that occur again. But I also, when landing in unsteady conditions, gusts or dirt and sand, I alway handcatch my bird. But getting back to the RS, I always make sure before I take off, that the switches are set correctly, the takeoff position is recorded, the return to home heighth is above any surrounding obsticals such as trees, and my landing area is clear of any overhead obsticals such as trees so when my craft returns home it has a clear path down back to my landing spot.. As a rule, since the RS only sees forward, I tend to fly it forward like a fixed wing aircraft and I don't worry about what it can't see side to side because I'm not going to crash into anything that isn't in front of the aircraft. Then, the only 2 areas U must be concerned with is what is above U and what is below. Anytime U are climbing or decending, U are in danger with this system, so fly in a level manner and climb or decend only when U are either absolutely sure nothing is above or below U or U are close enough to the craft to be sure it is safe to climb or decend. Either way, is it only common sense not to depend too much on the sensors, since they always have weaknesses. Having said that, I have depended heavily on RTH and the RS sensor for over a year of flying and hundreds of flights, but with careful planning on my flying area and most importantly my clear landing area. Until recently! I have now, not been able to use RS because when its on, my craft frequently will not climb, descend or fly forward. In order to get it to fly, I'll take it up 200 ft in wide open space and turn it on and it will not move in any direction. It just freezes until I shut it off. Sometimes it does fly but will suddenly react and freeze for no apparrent reason. But I had to stop using it.
So that's my take on RS. For a year or so I used it consistently, and now until I find some answers, I do not use it at all...Ray

Well written and a very good understanding of how the Realsense module works.
One thing however, I taught that the Realsense module have two sensors on the bottom of the unit? I think that the only way to fly the H Plus with the Realsense unit is forward as it was meant to be fllowen. This is one of the reasons that the h has a 360 Degree camera! I myself have started to use Realsense and reilly like it. Regarding your recent problems with your Realsense nodule have you tried to clean out the senasos? I would try some canned air and then take it up and try it out.
Cheers.
Mike
 

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Hi Keith. I started with a fuel heli. It had a cargo capacity of about 16 pounds. It had a 60 inch rotor with a full one hp fuel motor. Back then, in 2000 there weren't any electric helis available and a few year later the electrics were just as large and powerful as my fuel heli. The carrying capacity was necessary to carry the batteres, camcorder and transiever which were not yet miniturized. There were no sensor for collision control. You had to fly it fully 100% of the time. I've had, since then, micro helis w/ 7" rotor for indoor flying, but they did not have camera or sensors. Before I even attempted to fly a heli, I started with a flight simulator. I practiced for months before I even built my heli. (these helis were kits and U provided the motor, the servos, gyro, and batteries, and the kit contained the control members, the frame members which needed to be assembled, and sometimes a body.) Without an instructor to guide me I would never have even attempted to fly a heli of this size and power. It was a simulator that gave me the confidence. It was flying hundreds of hours and thousands of crashes on a simulator that gave me the confidence to take that first flight. I flew in open fields with noone around for safety reasons. This 5 ft rotor spins at up to 3200 rpm with a one hp motor burning aircraft fuel. In a relatively short time, radio contolled aircraft has advanced significantly.
My origninal experience with RS and the H plus was very positive, RS and RTH I absolutely depended on every time I flew any distance for the first year of flying my H plus. But, before I ever flew the H plus, I read the instructions and understood how RTH and obstical avoidance works. First, as U say, U must pay attention to the right hand set of 3 switches. The Center switch turns RS on and off, and the one just to the right of it controls the flite modes. The up position of the Flight Mode switch is Sport Mode and is the fastest reacting and highest speed mode which turns off RS. RealSense cannot respond fast enough at higher speeds and therefore is turned off when the mode switch is set to Sport Mode. Another limitation of RS is that it only has forward looking sensors and is limited to what it can sense.while moving forward Solid walls, full leaf branches, trees, solid fences, and buildings it can sense, but small objects, thin objects such as poles and utility wires and moving objects it does not sense consistently. It also does not sense side to side and therefore is only useful when operating moving forward in level flight. It does not see above or below the drone and is flying blind when climbing and descending. Even with these limitation, if U are aware of them and fly accordingly, it has been an extremely useful aid. Maybe I was somewhat lucky also, but for the first year of flying, everytime I flew more than 500 ft away, and sometimes even less, I would be watching my monitor and would look up and loose track of the drone, and I totally depended on RTH and RS to get my drone back. I didn't use it sometimes or most of the time, but, actually every time I flew. I've had the drone for a little more than one and a half years and never had any kind of an incidence even close to a crash of any kind except for an incidence of wind when landing where after landing, I didn't shut down quickly enough and a very slight gust tipped my craft over after it had sat down because the blades had not shut down completely. No damage was done, and I continued to use the same blades for a year and a half. They were still quiet and very efficient. Since then I developed the habit of using the red kill button just before setting down and have never had that occur again. But I also, when landing in unsteady conditions, gusts or dirt and sand, I alway handcatch my bird. But getting back to the RS, I always make sure before I take off, that the switches are set correctly, the takeoff position is recorded, the return to home heighth is above any surrounding obsticals such as trees, and my landing area is clear of any overhead obsticals such as trees so when my craft returns home it has a clear path down back to my landing spot.. As a rule, since the RS only sees forward, I tend to fly it forward like a fixed wing aircraft and I don't worry about what it can't see side to side because I'm not going to crash into anything that isn't in front of the aircraft. Then, the only 2 areas U must be concerned with is what is above U and what is below. Anytime U are climbing or decending, U are in danger with this system, so fly in a level manner and climb or decend only when U are either absolutely sure nothing is above or below U or U are close enough to the craft to be sure it is safe to climb or decend. Either way, is it only common sense not to depend too much on the sensors, since they always have weaknesses. Having said that, I have depended heavily on RTH and the RS sensor for over a year of flying and hundreds of flights, but with careful planning on my flying area and most importantly my clear landing area. Until recently! I have now, not been able to use RS because when its on, my craft frequently will not climb, descend or fly forward. In order to get it to fly, I'll take it up 200 ft in wide open space and turn it on and it will not move in any direction. It just freezes until I shut it off. Sometimes it does fly but will suddenly react and freeze for no apparrent reason. But I had to stop using it.
So that's my take on RS. For a year or so I used it consistently, and now until I find some answers, I do not use it at all...Ray
I've never used mine so I removed it from one of my pluses due to increased flight time, was told its power hungry aside from the weight ? I feel its not that useful, and most dont use it, seems yuneec missed the boat, unlike DJI, and others with all around OBS.
 
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I've never used mine so I removed it from one of my pluses due to increased flight time, was told its power hungry aside from the weight ? I feel its not that useful, and most dont use it, seems yuneec missed the boat, unlike DJI, and others with all around OBS.

Hello my friend for the most part I won't use it but I just want to play with it a little bit but let me ask you something.
In order for it to work must I have the switch in smart mode or can I use it in Angle mode for the ntel realsense to work thank you
Keith Kuhn
 

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Hello my friend for the most part I won't use it but I just want to play with it a little bit but let me ask you something.
In order for it to work must I have the switch in smart mode or can I use it in Angle mode for the ntel realsense to work thank you
Keith Kuhn
As far as I know, you enable it your settings, then just flip the OBS to on ?
 
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As far as I know, you enable it your settings, then just flip the OBS to on ?

Thanks that's kind of the way I understand it all so I'm going to go out today and put it in follow me mode not smart mode but OBS mode just to give it a test to see if it will follow me and also avoid objects I will let you know thank you Keith Kuhn
 
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Thanks that's kind of the way I understand it all so I'm going to go out today and put it in follow me mode not smart mode but OBS mode just to give it a test to see if it will follow me and also avoid objects I will let you know thank you Keith Kuhn

I did a little test even though realsense was enabled the Drone would not follow me or anything when I had it in angle mode.
With the switch in the obs position.
The other day when I flew I had it in smart mode and it would follow me, I don't know about avoiding objects because I did not have it that low.
I did not want to take any chances. I'm going to do a little more testing later this evening because I still have plenty of daylight.
Keith Kuhn
 
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Thanks that's kind of the way I understand it all so I'm going to go out today and put it in follow me mode not smart mode but OBS mode just to give it a test to see if it will follow me and also avoid objects I will let you know thank you Keith Kuhn

I should have a video on YouTube
this evening in about 2 hours about real since it will be listed under.
KK Motion Pictures
4 Sure
I am loading it up now it should be there in about 2 hours.
Keith Kuhn
 

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You have to be in Smart Mode to enable Follow Me/Watch Me, and RS will allow the craft to avoid objects during RTH.

You can read about the settings and actions starting on page 23 of the Vcho3-2 manual.
 
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You have to be in Smart Mode to enable Follow Me/Watch Me, and RS will allow the craft to avoid objects during RTH.

You can read about the settings and actions starting on page 23 of the Vcho3-2 manual.

Thanks
My video is on YouTube about real sense, YouTube
KK Motion Pictures
4 Sure
Keith Kuhn
 
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Hi Keith, I have an H plus and I'm not familiar with the H model, but the H plus does not have a Smart swith. I believe it is posible to use smart mode but I think it buried in the settings somewhere. I don't use it because I prefer to always keep the bird flying in the forward orientation. If I understand smartmode correctly, it allows U to control the motion of the bird strictly by the motion of the right stick in Mode 2, regardless of the orientation of the aircraft. Therefore, when u r directing the bird to fly toward u, u need not know its orientation, but this means if it is not facing toward u, u are forcing it to fly in a direction that is not forward, and therefore, it is flying blind with no sensors to tell it what it might run into. If u can readily see its surroundings, and know its safe from colliding with a tree or building etc., then it might be alright. Its a useful tool when u are learning how to fly and are keeping the bird close, but with only one directional sensing as RS is, I would not recommend using it for general flight. If u loose orientation of the bird but u can see the surroundings, it would be useful to direct it back to u since u only need to pull the right stick back and watch it fly towords u until u can see its orientation, but RTH, if, in ur setup, u set its height or its Return altitude it higher than all the surrounding structures and trees, it will stop the bird, it will rise to the predetermined elevation, automatically orient itself so it can fly back to u flying in the forward orientation so sensors are able to see objects, as long as u are flying with RS on and in Angle Mode and not "Sport" Mode. (at least I believe this is the case with the H plus)
BTW in my experience RS is not smart enough to go around or hop over objects, but it will stop short of running into them and save your machine.. It usually just hangs there and awaits furthure instuctions from the control. I realize this makes it seem useless when compared to drones with much more sophistication and multi directional sensors, but if u understand how it works and can taylor ur flying style to conform to its strenghts, when it is working well, as it had been for a year of flying and many hours, I found it to be a very powerful tool. I probably way over use and depend on RTH and RS more than I should because I spend too much time looking at the monitor and paying attention to what I am photographing or videoing, but it has returned my bird hundreds of times without incidence. ..Ray
 
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Hi Mike, no I haven't tried blowing the sensors out. That's a great idea. I will try that, but right now I haven't had much time to fly and I need to do so work on the bird. I'll let u know how it goes when I get to fly again...Ray
 
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Hi Keith, I have an H plus and I'm not familiar with the H model, but the H plus does not have a Smart swith. I believe it is posible to use smart mode but I think it buried in the settings somewhere. I don't use it because I prefer to always keep the bird flying in the forward orientation. If I understand smartmode correctly, it allows U to control the motion of the bird strictly by the motion of the right stick in Mode 2, regardless of the orientation of the aircraft. Therefore, when u r directing the bird to fly toward u, u need not know its orientation, but this means if it is not facing toward u, u are forcing it to fly in a direction that is not forward, and therefore, it is flying blind with no sensors to tell it what it might run into. If u can readily see its surroundings, and know its safe from colliding with a tree or building etc., then it might be alright. Its a useful tool when u are learning how to fly and are keeping the bird close, but with only one directional sensing as RS is, I would not recommend using it for general flight. If u loose orientation of the bird but u can see the surroundings, it would be useful to direct it back to u since u only need to pull the right stick back and watch it fly towords u until u can see its orientation, but RTH, if, in ur setup, u set its height or its Return altitude it higher than all the surrounding structures and trees, it will stop the bird, it will rise to the predetermined elevation, automatically orient itself so it can fly back to u flying in the forward orientation so sensors are able to see objects, as long as u are flying with RS on and in Angle Mode and not "Sport" Mode. (at least I believe this is the case with the H plus)
BTW in my experience RS is not smart enough to go around or hop over objects, but it will stop short of running into them and save your machine.. It usually just hangs there and awaits furthure instuctions from the control. I realize this makes it seem useless when compared to drones with much more sophistication and multi directional sensors, but if u understand how it works and can taylor ur flying style to conform to its strenghts, when it is working well, as it had been for a year of flying and many hours, I found it to be a very powerful tool. I probably way over use and depend on RTH and RS more than I should because I spend too much time looking at the monitor and paying attention to what I am photographing or videoing, but it has returned my bird hundreds of times without incidence. ..Ray

Hi Ray
I'm not sure if you saw the video I just put out there under
KK Motion Pictures
4 Sure
On YouTube
Everything you said is spot-on I don't like to use Intel realsense for just doing it as an experiment.

Your plus is set up a little bit different in my h480

I do like my RTH feature.
I usually always fly in angle .
mode?
Keith
 

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Hi Ray
I'm not sure if you saw the video I just put out there under
KK Motion Pictures
4 Sure
On YouTube
Everything you said is spot-on I don't like to use Intel realsense for just doing it as an experiment.

Your plus is set up a little bit different in my h480

I do like my RTH feature.
I usually always fly in angle .
mode?
Keith
Hats off to you keith, glad you didn't crash it, also in taking the risk. I've never used mine, and took it off one of my pluses, I'll see what the advantages are with the amount of extended flight time ? Oh, and I enjoyed the video
 
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Hats off to you keith, glad you didn't crash it, also in taking the risk. I've never used mine, and took it off one of my pluses, I'll see what the advantages are with the amount of extended flight time ? Oh, and I enjoyed the video

I don't know why but I have to try it one more time today so perhaps I'll make another video of it and if I crash it you'll know about it.
Keith
 
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You have to be in Smart Mode to enable Follow Me/Watch Me, and RS will allow the craft to avoid objects during RTH.

You can read about the settings and actions starting on page 23 of the Vcho3-2 manual.
[/QUOTE

Thank you I'm not going to mess with real sense very much or follow me mode or any of that stuff.
but now I know about it.
it seems to work fine except for teeny little branches you know what I mean or wires so one
must be very careful at all times with it thanks for all your input .
Keith Kuhn
 

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