What capacitor should I use ?
- Thread starter Varsaggo
- Start date
What are you doing this for? Are you replacing something on the M7 board? Maybe a photo along with an explanation of what you are attempting.
Lol , good point !! Umm yeah it's for cleaning up the voltage delivered to the ESC and other PCB usually u can do 4 , one on each motor or one at the main terminal connection
"The additional drone capacitor functions as an electronic filter. In general, a filter is configured to remove unwanted aspects from a particular signal. They are mostly configured to suppress specific ranges of unwanted signals, such as high frequency motor vibration noise or electronic noise in the form of voltage instability"
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well,,bigger filters a lil more but takes more time to fill up if that is a consideration.
seems pointless to me but i may not be informed enough to be sure of that.
dunno where your going to get voltage spikes from a straight DC system,but again,,,
if you have a problem you may want to look into chokes,,but they weigh more..
have fun
seems pointless to me but i may not be informed enough to be sure of that.
dunno where your going to get voltage spikes from a straight DC system,but again,,,
if you have a problem you may want to look into chokes,,but they weigh more..
have fun
Umm like when under full acceleration upwards and then letting the throttle hold in hover quickly causes video to freeze sometimes while recording also causes video breakup , due to the voltage spiking when the draw whent full and then suddenly is released .well,,bigger filters a lil more but takes more time to fill up if that is a consideration.
seems pointless to me but i may not be informed enough to be sure of that.
dunno where your going to get voltage spikes from a straight DC system,but again,,,
if you have a problem you may want to look into chokes,,but they weigh more..
have fun
The the capacitor also helps take out any noise due to hard voltage draws basically it insures that the voltage stays constant even when voltage requirements are fluctuating.
There is alot of literature and videos on the science and the proof of concept. It's quite interesting and makes perfect sense when thinking about it.
Granted on a FPV machine it's more likely to make a difference than in setting like this but overall it can't hurt especially since it also helps get rid of rotor wash in the video or the jello effect.
Any of the newer ESC for FPv /race/long range drone stacks has two holes now drilled into the solder point for the battery connection leads for the specific purpose of mounting a cap at that point.
In some situations the position of the wiring, and the type of the same, helps a lot: cables twisted together or rather, shielded cables, can reduce the high frequency disturbances generated by the esc or by the motors themselves.
Twisting motor cables is a very common practice.
Twisting motor cables is a very common practice.
Are you getting the breakup of video in the files recorded on the internal memory or is it just the video feed to the phone?
It's not bad it's just a freeze in the recording after any kinda major voltage spike, like descending 20feet and letting the throttle go so the craft has to ramp up to catch it's self , I can get it to happen on both Yuneec drones , so after some investigation I found some possible fixes , it's nothing really bad like I said but it be cool to see if the cap helps. I mean if you look at the layout of the ESC it makes sense that a cap or 4 would help the circuit from voltage drop outs or just overall signal interference.
I followed your ideas and mounted those two Attenna I had on the legs piggy backed them off the stock ones to test it quick and I can 120 feet and still have full signal lol , I went up 400 feet last night and about 40 feet out from me and the thing still had half the radio power left and I'm in the woods I can imagine an open field will be pretty far on just the stock rf , and my older Samsung Galaxy 7 I use just for drones works better than I thought wifi range wise.
Now I use the controller and I've seen the video of the guy that went out like almost a 1/4 mile with just the stock setup I would imagine there is a bunch of places around here I could achieve that if possible. He didn't use any kinda repeater either have u seen this video yet?
Yeah I actually found these two wires I had attached to the lidar PCB were running behind the power switch over the second compass/gps chip
, I been wondering why I had to recalibrate after every flight , so as u can see in the pic I just rerouted them to this location, Tucked behind the connection points for the gps and compassAttachments
Also wanted to point out not voltage surges like u get in AC but say inconsistent voltage when the motors go from hover or decent to full the voltage from the battery can be unable to keep up with the demand that quickly so what u get is a moment where not enough power is being delivered to all the systems , granted this all happens within a millisecond/ nano second especially when your packs are running low or are older the CAP just insures that the 12.6 volts is there and so whatever the drone is demanding doesn't drop it below 11.1 v for even a millisecond under high current situations. When your flying and those motors are changing voltages and amperages so quickly having a cap really just makes sense , atleast to me.well,,bigger filters a lil more but takes more time to fill up if that is a consideration.
seems pointless to me but i may not be informed enough to be sure of that.
dunno where your going to get voltage spikes from a straight DC system,but again,,,
if you have a problem you may want to look into chokes,,but they weigh more..
have fun
When I started getting into these things and looked at my first ESC and I thought immediately strange with so much current they don't have any caps or even a primary on the board. Well I found out after it's common to now do this and the manufacturers of the stack pcbs are putting CAP mounting and soldering points if you choose u want to install one.
Think about the amount of power DC only going thru a CPU VRM it too also must switch just DC current on and off and high to low very very fast so it has many caps to make sure the power is there when the CPU needs it.
This is a 12 phase DC only VRM that uses caps in the same way I am saying to use them on the drone for alot of the se reasons . Even the GPU uses caps to maintain solid DC current only levels , my old rc cars used caps on them to keep from having a brownout so to speak under heavily changing amp requirements
So in the end I say , yes caps are great for taking an ac current and converting it to DC in many configurations , also to do alot of other things with ac with, but remember caps can be used for alot more than just ac current applications.
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Actually looking at the ESC on the breeze at the top of each row of mos fets on the backside of the pcb it looks like they originally thought about putting a cap for each side of the drone. Probably since they aren't really needed for the cost they cut that idea out in the final manufacturing but the plans for them still are marked out on the pcb and tracing the leads u can make out it looks like each cap would of maintained a row of mos fets. I don't know how I didn't notice that before
but it's interesting to think about what they had planned for it.
Where are you referring to on the M7 board? The top and bottom sides are shown in the attached photos.
Opposite side of the bottom pic u posted , looks like the placement of the lidar board either was originally supposed to go there and be part of that PCB m7 and not a separate board or the placement of that lidar board nixed the capacitor plans ?
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So the traces are from the battery terminals to the outlines of caps that then feed the power rails to the mosfets?
If the radial leads were long enough, is there room under the lidar board to lay caps on their side instead of mounting them upright?
If the radial leads were long enough, is there room under the lidar board to lay caps on their side instead of mounting them upright?
Yes exactly what it looks like and unfortunately the amount of gap between the board for the lidar and the m7 ESC board is very small. It wouldn't be a problem for the modifications I made for mine since my lidar board now lays free floating with a small amount of rubber and foam attached to the bottom I took the glass out of the bottom and now the two diodes stick through and in the even of an accident the bottom has styrofoam supports that keep the diodes from now being hit and the board has 4 wire leads with 6 inches of wire so now it won't be broken like the one I'm trying to repair.
The other lidar board after the accident was to hot to touch witch is strange because it never heated up before. I went through and no shorts what's soever I can see so I can tell why it's over heating and not working ?
The traces look fine in the pcb and no other obvious shorts in the thing I thought maybe a piece of metal solder came dislodged in the accident causing a short but when I resoldered the board and fixed the diodes and tryed it out quickly it heated up with in 30 seconds to almost cooking temps lol
