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What exactly does resetting the breeze do?

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#1
When I reset a used one (breeze #3) as far as I can tell it doesnt do anything with the firmware which is fine but how do I actually know that it worked. Should I see some kind of change in the app somewhere?
All 3 of my drones show the same information which is:
Client 1.4.7
Fly control 1.1.2
Esc version 1.0.3
Camera version 2.0.4 (A)

Obviously different serial numbers
Does all of that look correct?

If I try a firmware update look it always says no update after a search that lasts about .5 seconds. I never had to actually update the firmware on any of them. I did however update both controllers and all functions work including camera gimbal.

Thanks,

Pete
 
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DoomMeister

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#2
Your Breezes are all on the current US version of the firmware (and not likely to see anymore updates) which is v0.1.37(A).

Yuneec has never divulged what the reset button actually resets. It does not clear the SD card or the firmware. It has helped in cases where the initialization process would fail on startup.

If you have any inside connections with Yuneec engineers, Please! milk them for every drop of knowledge you can squeeze out of them.
 
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#3
Well I feel justified at least in that I couldnt see any changes made after reset.
The main reason for this is I paid $60 including shipping for a drone that was supposed to be in a fully working state on Ebay. It actually arrived with 2 day shipping and in the carry case. Nothing else was promised and I knew that beforehand which is fine and was pleasantly surprised to get the hard case as I see someone selling it for $20 on own. I'm almost 100% sure this unit was a Walmart return item especially as there were some initial videos and pics from what I'm assuming was the original owner and the latest was a pic that looked exactly like the inside back bay of a Walmart. I know this as I've been in at least 10 different Walmarts repairing refrigeration equipment and the shot is a perfect match although it is very blurry.
Upon opening the case the first thing I noticed was the bottom sensor cover was not clipped in on the one end and at least 2 of the motors didnt free spin as well as my new ones. Also noticed that all of the blades were WAY tighter too. What I mean is my new ones spin like nothing on their shafts and with this one you could position the blades anywhere within their range of motion and they would stay in place quite strongly. I believe they were just loose enough that when up to speed they would still reach their proper position.
Upon app start it hooked up fine with no firmware update required and I performed the calibration using the DOOM'S method of paying attention to north. The name that it originally came up in my wifi was Tom which I just mention because at first I thought it wasnt showing up.
Calibration went normal and I had 17 sats like usual, set all the settings to minimum position and renamed it Scratch3 (you can guess what the others are named which has to do with the name of my cat).
After calibration I went back inside to test as there was no way I was going to take the chance of it flying off on me if something went wrong.
Started app, hooked up wifi fine with no weird lights or sounds and hooked up the G3 controller. I have 2 controllers from the 2 I bought new and they have always worked with no glitches even at a quick 268' height test. I have not tried any kind of longitude distance test yet on either one and that altitude test was done with the longitude set to the shortest distance.
So, started the countdown (gps) off and it did take off and hover but it was louder than it should have been and had a see-able vibration and not holding position quite as well.
After about 30 seconds had a motor stall and it came down from as low as you can get it to fly. Knew which motor it was and it was hot but not super hot. I should mention that all the blades looked OK.
I didnt originally check the unit over in a way that would involve removing covers but now I really looked over things closely.
That motors 3 screws were not in properly as in the looked to have been over tightened (2 of the 3 screws) which out it slightly off position. Ended up having to use tiny washers to fix it after smoothing out the plastic on both sides of the plastic.
The bottom case piece that covers the electronics and indoor sensors had one of the front clips missing as well as one side one making it easier to come off.
After fixing those issues and that motor spinning much better but not as loose as a new one I decided to try again. This time I may have accidentally forgotten to turn off gps. As it went to hover position (still a bit louder than normal and a slight vibration) I tried to bring it down as low as possible and it all of a sudden took off to the ceiling which is completely explainable if I forgot to turn off gps.
I caught it when it did the stuck motor or whatever it's called shutoff and the blades looked like they had very minimal damage.Of course I shut it all down and tried again but like an idiot I forgot to check the gps and it did it again.
This time I changed all blades correctly and I mean paranoid correctly checking many times including against another unit both in looks and labels. Stopped for the night after verifying no other damage.
This morning the first thing i did was reset the drone twice to make sure it was reset following the proper procedure and recalibrated outside.
The problem I've got now lol is that I'm paranoid of trying it again only because I'm not certain that gps was on the other 2 times and dont want it to fly into the ceiling again.
I did contact the seller yesterday and agreed that he could send me another parts drone that he claims has all working motors and props after I said I would either need $40 refunded or the parts to repair it.
He did send a parts drone out with tracking number and i might even have it tomorrow.Now I believe that one does connect to the app but I'm not sure. The reason why I say that is because he is selling a few of these for I believe $20-30 for parts with free shipping. That's how I came up with asking for the $40 refund or I'm sending it back.
If the parts drone has working parts and not what I'm assuming is just a messed up frame i wont have an issue with spending the $60.
So, what should i do before trying to hover again in the house? I know you can check for errors in the app itself but some things cause an error to begin with such as the optical flow too dark or too close to the ground and the sat being red (but of course that one will be greyed out this time slap my face before trying). The sat will absolutely say 17 and is just fine outside but theres 0 possibility I'm taking a chance of it flying away.

Apologize in advance for the long message. I'm a descriptive person;)

Not that it matters but the camera works just fine in all respects.

Dont show any errors connecting. Dont see why there should be any issues starting it for just a hover especially right off phone without the controller and gps/says off.
Any reason why it would take off to the ceiling unless there is an issue with a board at this point?
 
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DoomMeister

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#4
If the props do not move freely they are damaged or third party. The rotational freedom is some protection for the motors in a collision.

As you manually rotate the motors there should be a slight pulsing, but should be smooth and even. If you sense stiffness during the rotation, the motor is damaged and should be replaced.

You may be better off testing outdoors in a large open area using the GPS stabilization. With GPS enabled the wind has almost no effect on the Breeze’s position, and with loss of connectivity it should return to the takeoff position (auto RTH). Just be sure you have a good Compass calibration.

Since you use the Bluetooth controller, the last ditch effort of killing the motors is actually easy to accomplish, just press on both sticks simultaneously. ‘Tis better to crash than fly away.
 
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#5
I "fixed the individual prop issue and the motors all have that same pulse feel. Everything freely moves at this point.
Take a look at what I wrote in my post before answering this one if you get a chance and see what you think.
At the moment it feels safer for it to crash in the house IF I was an idiot not noticing that gps was on plus resetting it than taking a chance I never see it again I think:)
I'm assuming that trying to run it with no props will cause a fault and I would be a waste of time.
Anyone know what it does without props? Really hate to take them off again at this point when it's all setup. I've already ordered more spares even though I have 3 full sets at the moment.
 

DoomMeister

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#6
Running with no props might damage the ESC’s as there would be essentially no load on them. You also would have no idea of how it would react with props. You would also get an error for no takeoff (the IR sensor is used for low level altitude control in all modes) and the motors would overrev trying to see liftoff.

I would personally go for outdoor with GPS testing, but you are the pilot and should do what you are most comfortable with.

Good luck in your endeavors!
 
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#7
Look, I want to make sure you know that I appreciate all the help you are giving me as well as anyone else. I recognize it's not much fun dealing with someone who just got into this a month ago. I respect the opinions of others and take them all into consideration.
I could always test under a tree with a lot of branches so if it tries to fly away it would likely get caught or I could potentially catch it.
The first test is only going to be liftoff to hover and take it from there. Cant test today because it's been raining all day. I should be able to tomorrow though. Regardless, I will absolutely not blame anyone for whatever way I go. I'm an adult and it's my choice and risk:)
Thanks DM for putting up with all of these questions.
I was unsure on the controller whether motor cut is just pushing the 2 sticks in or it's down and in as I've seen some videos show for other other drones. It's just pushing them both straight down (they essentially have a soft press buttons).
I'm not sure how the yaw/trim left/right control that also changes gimbal position is any different from the left stick doing it mode 2. I could have swore though that when inside it only moved it a certain amount either way but outside it worked the same as the stick yaw. Anyone else notice this? Could be wrong...
 
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DoomMeister

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#8
Not a problem answering questions Pete.

My experience with yaw using the controller is that the d-pad only has one speed, but is good for a small bump in position when setting up for a picture. The left stick gives a little better proportional control of yaw, but I find the dead band to be too wide, then the yaw rate a little too high once you get it to start moving. I have suggested to CS that we need an app to adjust the controls to our liking, but liken that to the old adage if wish in one hand, get in the other, and see which one fills up first.

I’m not suggesting you do anything other than what you think is best, and are most comfortable with when piloting your Breezes.
 
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#9
Always appreciate your input.
My wife is currently driving us to my grandsons up in the adirondacks and we have a couple hours to go still so I figured it was a good time to fill in where things are at with the used drones since i did receive the second parts drone.
So, here's what I did and this has nothing to do with the second one I received:
Took it to church on Wednesday as there is a very large open area of about 1/4 paved and 3/4 grass. Let it countdown and liftoff to hover over grassy area from a marked flattened box and let it stay that way for maybe 10 seconds and did the standard land. And everything seemed fine.
So, decided to do it again with all parameters set to minimum again (using the controller as in the first time) but now test all the functions.
It hovers normal so I start testing functionality and it looks good when maybe 25 seconds in it starts doing weird stuff and goes up maybe 25 or so feet and it's obviously vibrating bad because 3 of the 4 prop protectors come off and something else looked weird. Motors stop and of course it comes straight down to the grass.
It's now got a couple cracks (but repairable) but most telling is one of the motors is hanging there to the side and all 3 screws that hold the motor in place are right in the position they would be in if the motor was still attached. All I can think of is either the motor female threads are stripped or they weren't screwed in properly with locktite. It's really really odd because I had spun all the motors and replaced the blades and they all were in the same position. In other words no way would I have expected that to happen.
So, i take out the motor screws and try each one in the motor threads and theres no indication at all that the threads on the screws or motors have any issue. Tried pulling hard on them and they dont move.
Packed it up at this point, went home and repaired everything including taking all motor screws out and back in using standard red locktite. Changed all blades again and gave it a rest to really let the epoxy and locktite set and haven't touched it since other than downloading the short crash video and making sure it all operates normal while connected but not flying.

Second parts drone came just in a bubble wrapped packing envelope so the blades were not in their perfect shape. I did try and get them back to normal as best I could but knew they weren't perfect. Keep in mind I was sent this one free because the first had issues.
Now the issues i could see with it were all of the plastic pieces that snap into the legs were missing but not that big a deal as the antennas were fine.
The bottom large plastic piece that has the windows for the indoor sensors were partially in place but broken and a couple tabs missing which frankly isnt surprising. I did "repair" the broken glass pieces with 2 clear plastic pieces from old flashlights that I had taken apart in the past when i was building lots of handheld lasers. They are both clear but I've seen a video that showed it flys just fine with the whole bottom piece off. The actual sensors looked normal and theres no visible damage to any board or the camera. When I'm checking this stuff I am comparing to one of my brand new breezes so I know how things should look and feel.
Of course being me I put a battery in it and everything hooks up normal so I run through resetting it and then calibration. All appears good to go and I wrap a layer of clear packing tape around each leg after repairing the cracks in them. It must have landed hard straight down since all 4 were damaged.
Will interject at this point and say that both of the used drones still had 5 or so videos and a couple pictures in them for downloading from the original owners. I think they both drones dates on the stuff were about a year ago but I'll have to take a look again. Kind of weird as you can see family members in some of them but be honest and ask yourself if you wouldn't look at them before deleting.
The first one seems like Christmas time and only has indoor flights that dont show a crash. The second ones I've downloaded but not looked at yet. Haven't deleted them yet from the drones but obviously going too.
Well I only have the 2 original sets of props that came with my new ones and decide I dont want to take a chance and mess them up before I go on this grandson visit so I'm going to test it without changing them all out after my attempted straightening job.
Now you may think that's not too smart but I've seen many vids with people flying fine and stable when their blades weren't the greatest. All I want to try is liftoff to hover and back down in my house and believe me, I've learned my lesson about verifying the GPS is off.
I'm in the smallish kitchen where I've taken off many times before with no issues with my new drones as the floor is bright. Unit starts and begins to lift but I can see that its wanting to lean to the left of me and before i can do anything as theres only about 2 feet max to the bottom cupboard which starts maybe 2-3" off the floor and it gets between that space managing to hit 4 blades up before it shuts down. At least I had the prop protectors on.
I honestly believe it would have been fine if I had just changed all the props. Knew I was taking a chance and at this point I'm changing them all before trying again.
That was yesterday and decided that I was done messing with them until I get back late Monday. Good time for a break.
So, that's my story so far...

Would like to know where everyone buys their OEM props from. Yuneek price is ridiculous as it's something like $48 for a complete set shipped in US to US.

Dont know if I get a reward for longest post but I've still got 45 minutes to destination. While writing I've been encompassed by the staggering beauty of fall in the adirondacks! Beyond amazing!!!
Pete
 

DoomMeister

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#10
Best price I saw in a Google Search was at Carolina Dronz @$10.99. You would need two sets to do the whole Breeze. Most other places including Yuneec are $12.99. I didn’t price shipping.

I’m assuming the three screws you are referring to on the motor are the ones accessed from the landing gear. They had to have been just barely holding the motor in place without any type of thread lock. That would certainly cause the vibration and the worsening symptoms until the motor detached from the arm of the Breeze.

If you use clear plastic to cover the IR sensor hole when the filter is missing it is advisable to use flat black to paint a mask like the filter has to reduce stray reflections which can cause false liftoff errors and/or erroneous altitude readings. I agree that $39 is a lot for a new bottom cover.
 
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#11
Got it. I didnt do the black masking on either one so I guess I'll be working on that when I get back although I might not be able to remove them without damaging them. I've got some extra though plus I haven't seen if I have any glass ones. Do you know what the coating on the larger one does? Must be some kind of filter. I'm determined to get both up and flying IF I can keep the cost low.
Yuneec wants $15 to ship those props. I would expect drone delivery within the hour for that kind of money. Talk about a detarent to buy from them! Must be trying to get you to add more to your order.
I've been here for 4 hours and I think it's time to do a calibration and fly around a bit starting in a big open parking area:) Remind me to turn the video on please;)
 

DoomMeister

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#12
The larger glass with the coating is an IR (infrared just like in some lasers) bandpass filter. It lets IR pass easily and blocks most other light to give a better signal to noise ratio in the IR region of the spectrum. Even it has the masking to reduce spurious reflections on the inside surface.
 
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#13
I'm betting yuneec doesnt just sell those glass pieces.

I did fly both my new drones yesterday at geofence max over the area and also down at the lake at 1080p with absolutely no issues.ownloaded the footage but haven't actually looked at it yet. I waited too long as the day was beautiful sunny early but was now overcast.
Some thing I'm not understanding is why am I ending up with 3 vids after. Why wouldnt i get one continuous video? Happens on both drones. Seems to be if you take the battery down to 20% you get 2 longer vids with 1 short one and 2 if you go to maybe 35%.
No idea what to shout in do I just choose natural. Not a camera guy.

So, something did happen yesterday when I took the second drone up and chr bes the settings to max.
I went for max distance and height at the same time immediately and I hit the geofence on distance first of course. I cleared the message and kept going up and I noticed I went over the 268 ft and either I let go of the stick at 283 or it stopped there (not sure as I let go when I noticed I was past the geofence setting). I tried for maybe a second to see if it would still climb and it didnt with just that quick try.
I never received a geofence warning pop up for the height but it would pop up if I tried to go farther. Wondering if that's some weird software issue. Not a nice day to fly or I would try it again and also try going max height and then distance to see what happens.
This was done over Schroon lake and theres no interference meaning ZIF you could turn off the geofence I'm betting I could go at least twice as far without losing signal to controller or wifi. Yes, that's complete conjecture and I certainly have no proof.
For $150 I have no legit complaints as it's set up BUT my wish list would be to turn off the geofence and more importantly be able to launch on my own so IF theres a potential issue such as the ones I've run into with the 2 I'm repairing I wouldnt need to ruin more props us motor testing. This was a $500 drone not that long ago.
If you read back a bit I would have been able to properly test motors and props at the edge of liftoff rather than crashing. Would be nice to have a test setting or something for motors and props as it's no fun finding out after the fact. I mean come on here, you are basically put in a position of a likely crash when you have no choice but an automated takeoff. Are ones like the mavic pro 2 like this also or can you take off on your own if you want?
Something else I'm surprised it doesnt come with is headless mode since so many cheapest do. Certainly practically meaningless to most with any real flying hours but for someone new it would be nice to not have to think about especially as theres no lights you can easily see. Like that you can control the lighting on the mavic pro 2 and yes I know that's a $1500 drone and we've got apples and oranges here. I'm just posting my thoughts as I've seen chaos that can do it.
I'm surprised about the lack of lighting as even my cheapo $20 ones have red in front and greens in back that are bright.
I bought a whole bunch of those kid fingerlights that you can easily attach to the legs but haven't used them yet.
I did talk to Yuneec one time so far when I initially bought my first one and couldnt get my note 8 to connect until they told me to go to airplane mode. At that time I asked about the speed limitation and he basically said the drone limits were a marketing decision as it will perform way past those. My guess is battery life would be compromised enough that the reviews wouldnt be near as good and less fly time = more complaints. If theres one thing I've learned through the years when you ask yourself why is this, that or the other thing the way it is 99% of the time the answer is $.
When I went to the geo max settings i did lose sight of it at one point when i was looking at the vid feed because a background cloud matched the color. It's my understanding that you are not supposed to fly past LOS now. I really need to check out that section here. It wasn't intentional and I brought it back til I could see it again.
I've seen on ebay people selling skins for it with some pretty cool designs. Anyone here tried one? Thinking I need to do more than some red and green single width standard tape stripes on them. Did add what look like eyes to the front of the first one.
Haven't flown with the prop protectors on outside but I have used them inside.
Thought of a way to test outside without a fly off risk. Remembered all of a sudden that I have a screened tent that's probably 12' x 12' and 6-8' high. It's a bit of a pain to setup though. You could also try a tent. Issue with a tent is going to be airflow interference so that's probably not going to go well.
 
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DoomMeister

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#14
All of Yuneec’s aircraft record video for 5 minutes, then start a new file. They will seamlessly mesh in a video editor. Most videographers use clips of 5 to 20 seconds with transitions for a total video of 3 minutes or less. Watch any TV program or movie and time the scene changes. You’ll see the same thing.
 
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#15
Had no idea. Guess that's something drone reviewers dont bother mentioning.
I dont think I've gotten any response yet on possible free video editing software for android or windows. I need to look around and try and figure out if I should be making changes to the video or pic settings before and during a flight.
As always, thanks for a response. Hoping at least someone bothers to read my endeavors:) plan for now to at least post how my used/part drones repairs/testing goes. Maybe it will help someone at some point. Know I'm very descriptive but I find it really annoying when someone posts in desperation giving practically 0 information about what happened and what's been tried. Got that all the time in the laserpointerforums.com
 
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DoomMeister

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#16
I use Natural setting most of the time unless it is near sunset then use Night. Then once airborne and on the subject I’ll set white balance and lock it, then adjust exposure to get rid of blown out high lights.

I use an older version of Adobe Premier only because I have it from a few years ago. Use the Forum search (magnifying glass) as there are several threads on free and low cost video editors.
 
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#17
So here's the continuing story of my parts drones:
Repaired drone #3 and swapped a motor from drone #4 (drones 1 and 2 are new) as I suspected an issue with front B motor. This included drone #4 optical flow sensors new plastic covers (actually smaller is a perfect fit glass I happened to have) removal to blacken the areas as they are normally as suggested. Both drones had their blades changed to OEM blades as the aftermarket ones do NOT fit properly and will need modifying to POSSIBLY work.
Decided to test drone 4 first as it would more likely still have an issue. As soon as it hit go i was ready to press both sticks in. Camera facing me noticed immediately that the suspect motor did not run and it seemed that the drone realized it and didnt try and give more power to lift off and it killed the motors just a millisecond before I pressed the sticks to do it myself. Gave me whatever that error is for loss of motor.
I put it to the side and started over with drone #3 and it worked like new. I had all settings at their lowest so all the testing was done within those parameters and it never faltered even whacking the stocks simultaneously all over the place. Camera all worked normal in every way from movement to pics/vids. Ran it til about 25% battery and did a return to home. Only thing I haven't done is test it indoors.
Drone #4 did have an issue with that motor in that the factory didnt glue the wires coming out of the motor correctly and the middle wires (each of the 3 main wires has 3 individual wires going to windings) had broken just before going inside where they are wound. I pulled the motor shaft clip off and the 2 copper washers so I could slide off the magnet casing for a little more room to work. Yes, I almost lost the c-clip.
Now I'm pretty good at soldering small stuff so I decided to see if I could clean just enough of the wire ends to solder them together and then to the main wire. To be clear, these 3 wires were only out of the winding by 1/8" max and it's only because I've soldered a lot of small things when I was building portable lasers that I was attempting this. Those wires are all coated and they better have a good solder connection.
I believe that I was able to lightly scrape just enough winding coating off to solder their ends together and get them away enough from the winding piece to not short out.
I unwound some of that middle wire from the other 2 to get a slightly longer length to work with and then soldered those wires and then the whole middle wire to the motor windings making a strong connection. Motor windings resistance checks out all ways so it's looking good. Pulled a tiny piece of shrink tubing over the connection and shrunk it.
Used 5 minute gorilla glue epoxy next and was able to get some behind the shrink tubing and glued all 3 wires together basically like yuneek does. Glued at a few intervals the 3 motor wires together leaving "give" between spots and then hot glue in 2 spots on the way to the molex motor female connection and plugging it back in.
Just a bit of information about working with epoxy and especially the 5 minute type:
You need to ignore the 5 minute claim as they make it sound like it's all done and hardened in 5 minutes. I've worked with a huge variety of 2 part epoxy and the time thing is nothing more than a working time. That means that after a good 30-60 second mixing you have about 4 minutes left before the glue is no longer useful. Also the longer you wait to apply the glue, the weaker it becomes so keep that in mind. It really takes a good 24 hours still before it's close to being at cure strength. The longer you can wait to test if it's going to work the better.
Theres a reason why I chose 5 minute gorilla glue as there are tests on YouTube that show how different epoxies can be from each other. I chose this glue because it is much better at handling vibrations/stress than a lot of others. Some cant handle much shock or twisting so choosing the correct epoxy can mean success or failure. Just because 20 different brands say 5 minute does not mean they have the same properties.
From what I've seen in testing, in general the longer it takes for an epoxy to cure the stronger it tends to be.
So here I am now almost 24 hours later and up until an hour ago it was raining. Actually see some sun peaking out so if the weather holds wish me luck ss I intend to give drone #4 another chance at redemotion:) I do not believe my repair will fail otherwise I wouldnt even ponder trying it.

Oh yeah, I do have another stone I won on ebay for $60 that said wouldnt connect to wifi. Theres a decent chance they didnt use a compatible phone so I could get another working unit. I was willing to pay the $60 which included shipping because it's coming in its box with a charger, the cord, battery, blades and blade guards.
Is it too much to hope for 3 fully operational parts drones? We shall see....

Did I mention my sump pump went on me a couple days ago? Man the stuff at lowes is junk. Alm made in China and Taiwan with terrible reviews.
Ordered a good quality one from amazon that was cheaper and is supposed to be delivered today. No issues with flooding out anything. Noticed a strong hum and the motor kicking off on internal overload. Found a piece of duct tape got caught up in the impeller. Worked fine but believe it or not it's actually 34 years old. Worked so long because it didnt need to run much and it is a different design with the motor 4 feet up from the pump connected by a long shaft. Could have replaced the motor I suppose but I found out the pump is cracked. Disgusted when I looked it up and found out the average life span of a sump pump is 7-10 years. Stuff is built so cruddy now. You buy a new fridge and you get 20 years out of it while the 50 year old one in your garage still works fine. Like to see a real cost study on things like that. I dont believe you would save anywhere near as much $ if you kept your old fridge with its low efficiency vs having to buy 4-5 more efficient ones not to mention the materials and energy needed to build them.
 
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#18
Drone 4 flys just fine. Did notice that the camera seemed to not move smoothly though. Popped the bottom and I see what the potential issue is with the ribbon cable binding up the servo pointing straight down. I tried exercising the motion a lot and added a little silicone spray on the cable and camera drum and well see what happens.
Luck ran out. I didnt expect to see drone 5 until next week but it arrived today. Looks perfect with a bit of normal wear on the blades. Came in the main box that was likely from walmart as it was the controller box although the seller didnt include it and is likely selling separately.
Had the usb cable, new blade package, instruction books, battery, charger and blade guards. All good.
Unit gives red flashing on powerup. No wifi no nothing. Reset does nothing. Faulty usb connection to windows 10 and an A9S pops up upon messing with the reset button powering it up. Either owner bricked it by wiping the memory with computer or some internal issue. Insides look like new. Guess I've got lots of nice parts as everything else looks good.
Wonder what yuneec would say if I contacted them?
 

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