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  1. Tuna

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    Seeing as there has been a lot of discussion about the CGO3+, I thought it might help to post a positive thread about how to get the most out of it. *PLEASE* contribute if you have had good experiences, or pleasing results. If all you're going to do is complain, please keep it to the other threads.

    I sat down and compared the CGO3+ with a GoPro Session. I'm no expert, but here's what I've learned:

    On both systems, Auto White balance changes the color temperature if the scene changes during a video (even in raw). It's really best not to use it. Comparatively, the GoPro has a bluer tint on auto, with the CGO3+ being a little more natural (but looking less 'crisp').

    Of all the preset modes, the most accurate on a normal slightly overcast day is Sunset/Sunrise, with a bluey tint. Sunny and cloudy are possibly the worst choices as they have a strong red tint.

    For exposure, the auto exposure isn't bad, but if most of your scene is landscape, it will tend to blow out the sky or any white objects (cars etc.). Dialling down 1 stop definitely helps here. Manual exposure gives more control, but personally I find the touch screen hard to use whilst I'm flying - here's hoping Yuneec do something with the spare controls.

    In general, the RAW profile gives you the best post-processing options. It produces more muted video *and* switches still images from JPG to raw DNG. Unfortunately DNGs don't have GPS info in their metadata, but JPGs do (again, something Yuneec would do well to fix). Otherwise, for best 'out of camera' shots, the 'Natural' profile is probably best.

    Unlike the GoPro 'ProTune' setting, RAW doesn't sharpen the video (much/at all?). It leaves fewer artifacts, but makes the stream look muddier in comparison. This can all be adjusted in post processing.

    If you're using RAW, you'll therefore need to put more contrast into the video (it's a log curve, so you want a curve going the other way), increase saturation and sharpen to get something that has punch and depth. Unlike the Session, the CGO3+ lens is 'straight' (no fisheye) so you don't need to correct for that, which means you get the most out of the pixels you have.

    Finally, this is just a personal preference, but the fluid movement you get from 60fps makes it much more satisfying than 4K at 30fps. YouTube and others support higher frame rates and the limited audience for 4K means you'll have more impact with 60fps than 4K for now.
     
  2. DroneClone

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    Tuna, I have found your settings pretty much coincide exactly what I have come to find in my endeavors to get the best out of my CGo3+, Which for what it is, I am quite pleased with my results!. I do not have all the blurry edges and complaints most speak of(Maybe I was a lucky one with a near perfect, factory focus!!) I have one question, In you statement of rolling back one stop, Is that in Auto settings? And what are you doing to "Roll Back One Stop" Maybe it's the term you are using, how do you roll back(adjust) in Auto? Thanks !
     
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  3. Mortalis

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    Jeff Sibelius just put out a 2 part video on the camera setting of the CGO3 (he has a Q500 4K). Now, I havent had an opportunity to watch them yet but I like all his other informative videos and I would imagine the CGO3 settings should be relatively the same as the CGO3+ (obviously, there may be some slight differences).
    When I get home tonight I am going to watch them.
     
  4. horizontal

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    DC. You asked the question perfectly for what I wanted to gain from his post. I just didn't know how to frame it correctly. Thanks.
     
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  5. Tuna

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    I'll post a quick tutorial as soon as I can get some shots of the ST16 to show what to do.
     
  6. OnTheRopes

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    He means using exposure compensation to minus 1 stop. (Pretty sure that is what he means anyway)
     
  7. tinchob

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    ev.jpeg
    dial down EV ( Exposure Value)
     
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  8. Tuna

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    Haha, hey, I'm a software guy, not a photographer - forgive me if I stomp all over technical terms. :D
     
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  9. OnTheRopes

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    I find I am pretty close to your settings too. I always shoot manual for stills and video.
    For video I agree 60fps seem sto be the most pleasing, but if processing it is important that the output fps match the input or are half like 30fps otherwise you get stuttering. (Don't shoot me cos I am new to video so probably stating the obvious)
    I always shoot RAW and yes you will need an adjustment to saturation, probably vibrance is more pleasing for stills. For video I add some unsharp mask and stills I use High Pass filter on a smart layer. And of course I adjust the curves for contrast. The above is not in the order I typed it though ;)

    I do find changing exposure is a pain on touchscreen and I always forget to set WB for movie ( I don't think it matters for still shots) I do wish the camera would not keep resetting itself every battery.
     
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  10. DroneClone

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    I caught your drift ! As I am not a camera buff either!;)
     
  11. BobW55

    BobW55 Moderator
    Staff Member

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    Have to agree on the PITA to have to reset the camera each time. I keep forgetting to write down what I used. Would be nice to be able to set and save the defaults. Or better yet have a few named defaults.
     
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  12. sabrewalt

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    I was wondering how to fix that scene change as you roll away from or into a low sunset. (White Balance off??). Thanks for the tip. Also not a foto guy.

    BTW There are 15 different video resolutions on our H's. I shot a few seconds one after the other of each one. My two favorite are 2560x1440 30FPS. and 1920x1080 60 FPS. I only edit with an IPAD app called "SPLICE". Pure subjective. I might even change my mind. :)
     
  13. CAPTAINDRONE

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    Correct, I've mentioned this in past posts. The exposure compensation of the Typhoon is off. Objects which are white are supposed to still contain detail. Rarely does a Typhoon H camera show detail in a white object on a sunny day.
     
  14. Skypicswa

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    YUN00007.jpg Only had one flight but i'll try your settings Tuna.
    I got "fisheye" at 400 ft though