Need a little help please I'm new at this

[jsteele1]

I bought my 2nd Q500 4K the other day. The Q500 4K can with a ST12 controller. It seemed to work really great and would go twice the distance as my 1st Q500 4K that used the
ST10 or 10+ controller. I did noticed that the camera would not move up or down using the slide switch in the left side on the controller. I deleted the drone in my settings and created
a new one then bind that with my drone and camera. Still no up or down moving of the camera, but I could pick up the drone and move it any direction and the camera would keep it still. I got out my ST10 from my 1st drone and deleted the drone setting and created another one then bind it to the drone and camera. Still no up or down moving with the side slide switch. So I tested both the ST10 and ST12 with my 1st drone after deleting and creating another then binding . Both the ST10 and ST 12 moved the camera up and down. So it seem to me that maybe a bad solder joint or faulty motherboard in the drone ? Can anyone help me understand if they have had this problem ? Thanks so much for your time and help on this mater . jsteele1

 

[WTFDproject]

Can anyone help me understand if they have had this problem ?

The good news is yes, lots of folks have had this problem. However, the fix comes in a variety of ways. We will have to ask some questions to get a feel for what is causing your issue.

First question: Need to determine if it a problem with the drone or with the camera. Did you swap the problem camera to the "good" drone (or vice-versa) to ensure it is a drone problem or a camera problem? You mentioned "the camera" would move up and down on the other drone, but I'm not certain you meant the same "problem" camera or the one normally on the other drone.

Second Question: Have you checked the three spring contacts on the drone side of the camera mount? (If one of them is stuck down, which happens often, it could be the problem.) DO NOT mess with the contacts with the battery in the drone. That's how the mainboard gets damaged.

 

[jsteele1]

Ok first thanks for your reply so much ! ! ! Yes I had 2 different drones and used the same camera and the same ST10+ ,ST12 controller on each drone. With the camera I used the same twisted wire connection cable with the one camera that I tested on each drone. We will call drone one the 2nd drone that I purchased a few days ago.
This drone came with the ST12 controller and the word Yunee on the side of this drone was spelled Y nee. Understand both drones would keep the camera still no mater what direction I move the drones. The first drone would not move the camera up or down using the slide switch on the left side of the controller. This was using both the ST10+ and ST12 controller ( binding each controller each time to each drone ) .
Now using the same camera and twisted cable connector on the 2nd drone ( witch was my first drone that I have had over a year ). The camera again would stay still when moving the drone in any direction. After binding
each remote ( ST10+ and St12 controller) to that drone and camera . Each would move the camera up and down using the side slide switch on the left side of the controller.
I have check for bent connectors that the camera make contact with, when putting on the camera to the drone.
These are the 3 spring type connector that is on the bottom of the drone that make contact to the top of the camera when it is slid and locked into place on the drone. Each contact seem the same as the other and look just like the other drone that works. I have not taken the drone apart to see if a bad connection with solder joint or loose wire can be seen. I really don't know what firmware the drone or ST10+,St12 have loaded. I leaning with taking the cover of the drone off and looking . What do you think ?:

 

[WTFDproject]

I leaning with taking the cover of the drone off and looking . What do you think ?:

That was a really good post, and we are now WAY ahead in troubleshooting. Thank you for taking the time to do that well.
Yes, it is time to remove the top shell and check the wiring and wiring connectors. With some significant luck, you may find a correctable problem.
Here is the bad news. The issue you are describing is the exact symptom of a particular failed board component. It is a transistor near the left rear of the board, beside the white camera wire. I generally refer to it as the "gizmo", but it is not recognized often enough for me to know it's actual technical name (if it even has one).

The first thing, or course is looking at the wiring. (Rule 1 - "Easy things first")
Should no problems be found, you will have to replace the "gizmo". There is an identical, unused "gizmo" on the board right beside the bad one. You will have to replace the bad "gizmo" with the good one. The attached PDF shows the locations.
Note the bad "gizmo" will show no signs of damage. It will look brand new, just like the good one. It will have correct continuity and voltage at all the contact points. What it is not doing is "inverting" the PWM (tilt control) signal from the mainboard. You can only see the malfunction with a multichannel oscilloscope.

 

[WTFDproject]

This thread provides an opportunity to discuss a related issue that may even have some bearing on the current issue.

The Rubber Flap
The Q500 4K model came with a rubber flap (contact protector) attached to the camera mount. The flap gets in the way of things. It's purpose is not generally recognized. Yuneec did not do a good job of preaching this particular gospel. Many people do not use it. Some people remove it altogether.

But the flap has a purpose. Anytime the drone is powered up, the camera contacts are energized. If the drone is powered up without the camera installed, the contacts are not only energized, they are EXPOSED. The smallest, briefest contact between the center contact and the PWM contact instantly damages the "gizmo" discussed above. Putting the flap in place over the contacts prevents this from happening.

Any time the camera is removed from a Q500 4K , the contact protector should be installed.

 

[jsteele1]

Wow I could spend days and days with a person like you ! ! ! ! Time to break out the solder gun and sucker. I can only guess these part can be replaced or crossed. Thanks so much for the more than useful information. I will reply with my end results . God Bless and take care jsteele1 I'm really good at power systems and solar power. I can repair power systems down to the component level so understanding pn or np junctions is abc's to me thanks again so much ! ! ! !

 

[DoomMeister]

Just interjecting some information on the “gizmos”. I am quite certain they are transistors setup in a configuration to invert the PWM signal as you say. I would need a better closeup of the part showing the numbers if available although they appear to be SMT parts and likely have too little room for markings.

@WTFDproject, as always you are a virtual fountain of information. Many thanks!

 

[WTFDproject]

I can only guess these part can be replaced or crossed.

I just realized you may have meant "crossed" in another way. If you were thinking about just moving the white wire to the circuit with the other gizmo, that has never worked for me. The few I checked were always manipulating a different input code. I don't know if it's a leftover from the many preceding revisions to this board, or if it was part of something that was never developed, but it was different, and the camera would not respond.

 

[WTFDproject]

I would need a better closeup of the part showing the numbers

Steve,
I don't have one off to see if anything is visible on the other side. This is a top view:

 

[jsteele1]

do you think the 2SC2412 would work ? do you have the part number that you used ? I can seem to find the
number listed on top in the picture .

 

[WTFDproject]

I've never ordered any. I always took them off scrap boards or moved the other one over.
I have tried to look up SMD numbers on Yuneec boards. They seem to be using a different system, at least on some of the components. If you do find a component with the same ID, it's sometimes a completely different component. Please factor in my lack of experience. I don't have an electronics background. I'm just an old guy with a soldering iron and a curious nature.

 

[jsteele1]

Nothing with being old seems I getting their myself . I will have to look after lifting one from the board.
I have done business with a few companies that handle part number that can't be found in the USA for
many years. Parts cost a little more but usually the same part . I will post what I find out . Thanks so much you have be more than a Great Help ! ! ! ! ! jsteele1

 

[jsteele1]

I've never ordered any. I always took them off scrap boards or moved the other one over.
I have tried to look up SMD numbers on Yuneec boards. They seem to be using a different system, at least on some of the components. If you do find a component with the same ID, it's sometimes a completely different component. Please factor in my lack of experience. I don't have an electronics background. I'm just an old guy with a soldering iron and a curious nature.

do you have one that I could purchase ? I will pay you gladly ! ! ! !

 

[WTFDproject]

I think I can tape a couple to a piece of paper and send in a regular envelope. Send me your address in a PM. It will be this evening before I can take them off an old board. No cost. Just pass the favor on to the next guy.