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Battery blinking blue light

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#1
Hello my name is lalo and I'm new to drones brought this yuneec drone at the beginning of this year don't get to fly it that much went to charge it 3 days ago and blue light keeps blinking how can I fix that...
 
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Sep 18, 2017
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#2
On the back of the charger, "blue blinking" means "abnormal charging".
As I understand, the battery provided 3 separate voltages to source the Breeze's internal circuits. Those voltages are 12V, 9V, 5V. One of the cell is just bad or too low. If you have a voltmeter, you can measure to find out which is too low to cause the abnormal charging. Breeze battery 2.jpg
You can then try charging the "bad" with an appropriate AC/DC adapter. Well, do it at your own risk.
Or dispose the bad, buy a new battery.

I had the 9V gone bad, too low. With some alligator clips and a 9V adapter, I conditioned the 9V, made the battery "good" again to be charged on the factory charger.
 
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Likes: UniqueNewone
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#3
Charge with a charger that can be set to NiCads. Charge for a few minutes and try in Breeze charger again. If not then try a longer time for NiCads. Worked on mine. Don't leave too long as it could explode.
 
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#4
Had one do this. The vertical pin in battery I pushed slightly away from edge and battery now charges. Looks like a quality control problem.
 
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#5
no, that’s not right. You want to find the lowest voltage cell of the 3 and ONLY charge that cell to the same voltage as the other 2 cells. You NEVER want to charge the battery at 12v (or 9v) trying to ‘condition’ the pack. Here’s the issue, and understand this clearly, if you have one cell at a low voltage, let’s say 3.5v (fully charged LiPo should be 4.200v) and you charge the pack at 12v (or 2 cells at 9v) this will OVER CHARGE the good batteries with a real potential of causing a Fire. You only want to TRY and charge the cell that is not charging properly. This iscalled balancing the pack - and goodchargers do this by design.

In the picture above, assuming it’scorrect, if you measured cell 3 as low,you would charge ONLY THAT CELL at perhaps 5v for only a minute or two. You do this by putting the charger negative to the +9 terminal and thecharger positive to the +12 terminal. That way only that cell gets a charge,not the complete battery. After a fewminutes stop the charge and try theYuneec charger again. If it does notwork forget trying to condition the pack. Put it in salt water for 24 hours todischarge it and dispose of the batterycorrectly.
 
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#6
Your battery is probably fine. Try again, charge it until flashes green only. The problem of the "blue" flashing (on the drone when you turn it on I presume) is your WiFi has not been completely established, Take a few minutes to make sure you get the WiFi set up correctly (wait until your phone says "no internet connection available" and acknowledge the message, which is fine) Start the Breeze App and look for a good battery percentage at top left (97% to 100%). If you see the battery level % and green dots you ARE connected to Breeze WiFi correctly and should be able to launch.
 
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#7
I had this issue twice with the same battery, always after draining the battery too much. In both cases, I just let the battery unplugged during nighttime, and when plugging in the charger the next morning it started to charge normally again. I plug the charger directly to 220v (Argentina), but I don't think it makes any difference. Good luck!
 
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#9
Can anyone show a picture of the actual setup of conditioning the battery? I have this occurring to 2 different batteries and out of warranty. Want to try and salvage.
 
Likes: Cebu4life

DoomMeister

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#10
B9255BF5-39E2-469E-91E1-DAF06EA40E2F.jpeg
This is and end on view of the Breeze battery.

A1D4360B-E7F6-4020-81BA-8B8A47FB7A39.jpeg

This is a USB cable I modified to supply +5VDC to pins that will fit in the connector on the Breeze battery connector.

D3EB4030-31E1-4785-8F53-CB8F61CC76AF.jpeg

This is a diagram of the battery pinout. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage of each cell. Use the modified USB cable with a USB power source to charge the cell with the lowest voltage for a minute or so.

Now place it on the Breeze battery charger to see if it will start charging. Repeat several times if necessary to get the battery pack to the point that the charger will charge the battery pack. If the battery pack will not charge after several attempts, and good batteries work with the charger, the pack is bad.

The Breeze charger is a balancing charger. The last few minutes of a charge cycle you will see the light flash green and red and finally solid green when fully charged.

EDIT: 24 May 2018

Lately there has been several posting with bad Breeze batteries where 1 or more cells have been run down below 1VDC or even to 0 volts. For a cell to run down that far, it has suffered major trauma for a LiPo battery. Chances of recovering a battery in that condition is very unlikely. It should be used with great caution and never left charging unattended.

The simple rig pictured above was intended for use on s LiPo cell that was just below what the stock Breeze charger would accept and charge.
A LiPo cell at 3.2 VDC is theoretically at 0% charge and 100% at 4.2 VDC. That is only a 1.0 VDC difference. I would only recommend using the above setup on cells at 3.2 VDC and above.
 
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DoomMeister

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#12
The real credit goes to others in this forum that have been in RC for years, like Scott-in-Colorado, Steve Carr, PatR, and several others that I learned from. Do a search on battery care on the forum and you’ll see what I mean.
 
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#13
You are a battery saver!!! I followed your guide and i was able to save one of my included batteries. The middle cell was around 2.2 and after 5 minutes of the modified charger i was able to get it to around 3.5. Put it on the charger and its charging. Saved me $60 bucks!!!! Highly recommended fix!!!
 
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#14
I'm working an interesting problem - just got my 2nd Breeze - controller dead! had to take it all back to Walmart which exchanged no problem. New controller fine - but the new battery is not quite right - the charger is flashing green-red-blue. All cells are at 4.1X volts. Unsure why this is happening. Another battery shows fine.. I will check the battery pins but if anyone has an idea, I'm listening. Again, using a GOOD volt meter, all cells measure 4.1X volts. Just wondering if someone has seen this before. Would hate to have to take this one back too! I don't think this is balancing the cells.

So, I knew the batteries were OK - charged from the first Breeze I returned as the controller was bad. Cells seemed to charge to 4.1X volts - but the Red, Green, Blue lights kept flashing - so I raced back down to Walmart - they still had the original Breeze in the return area - and I was able to exchange the 2nd wall charger for the first, and it's working fine, as it originally did.

CONCERN: The first Breeze I bought around Christmas - no issues (technically). The one I bought earlier today - the controller did not turn on, the one I exchanged that one for, the Battery Charger did not work well. Someone mentioned a quality issue above - and I think there may be something going on also. This is not right to have 2 Breezes with something wrong in each one! Just a heads up.
 
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#15
One comment on the above '5V USB' charger.. in theory this works for getting a low cell charged a bit - but just note, there is something called IR (Internal Resistance, measured in milli-ohms) - and as noted the charger does balance the pack in the last few minutes, but as important is the cell to cell milli-ohms, when you buy a 'expensive' LiPo battery (Thunder-Power or the like), each cell is matched to the milli-ohms of each cell are very similar - this gives you equal current draw from each cell - and the cells last much longer. If you are having issues with one cell - MARK THE BATERY in some way and watch it close (felt pen, or tape, or other). It's very likely the cell IR's are not close and one cell is working harder than the others - and in the long run, this is not good. Good luck to us all.
 
Likes: Akeldama
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#17
It can be measured. My good chargers (cellpro 10x, and many newer ones) measure this. The issue becomes you need good equipment knowing the exact charge voltage, and exact current. Then you need to know the wire resistance. The total resistance = wire resistance + internal resistance. Using ohms law you can figure IR. For most practical purposes don’t worry about it. Again, it’s in the milli-ohms but does matter when larger currents and efficiency start mattering. Not to complicate things but ESC (electric speed control) use FETs (field effect transistors) where the R(on) (on resistance) plays a factor in overall efficiency of the power to the motor.

Sorry, not much help, but perhaps a little more background.
 
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#19
The charger I exchanged is working well. The first one was defective, the “blue flashing light”, and in my case the charger was flashing red, green, blue. After exchange the charger flashes red and green, at various times, and solid green with the charge is complete. All working fine.
 
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#20
The modified USB Cable - Do you just cut the end off and take the Red and Black wires out and peel them back and leave the extra wires? Or is there more to it?
 

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