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flew with 4 hawks antennas today.

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finally got 4 hawks xr patch antenna in 6-24-20. did a 8 test flights with just the xr connected to the st16s. best results seem to be with the h520 100 feet in front of the controller. when at over 300 ft agl. where I was at it will work good control link rssi was hitting 72 to 75 at 900 ft to 1000 ft at 392 ft agl. there was issues with the 5.8 camera video link when aircraft was about over and beyond power lines that where 1100ft to 1200ft out (not the high voltage types) the normal pole runs that follow the roads. at 3800 ft the camera dropped out. the screen went from e90 to no camera and the rtl kicked in. Did that with both e90 and c23. that's with the antenna pointed right at the aircraft when standing. however when I pointed the controller more to the ground much to my surprise there was no video lag issue same path got to bit over 5000ft no lag and rtl did not kick in and camera did not dropout. did a run with only the 4 hawks sr version pointed right at the h520 I got almost same results with video lag and doing the same flight path with the xr version attached. however in the past when I had both 4hawks sr and yuneec oem antenna connected to the st16s with a rp sma splitter I was able to fly out 5290ft out no video lag no rtl. flew with just oem yuneec antennas same path no video lag when crossing over the power lines got to 2600 ft before video started to lag and return with out rtl kicking in and the camera did not dropout. the 5.8ghz video link was having the main issues. Did another set or of flights over a path that gave my yuneec oem antenna fits with rtl kicking in much shorter distances, that path had me flying from ohio into michigan no video lag but control link dropouts. With the 4hawks xr got bit 4000ft out when I got video lag and camera dropout then rtl kicked in when the controller pointed right at the h520. did not get back to angle mode untill I was back in ohio. the ohio line is 500 ft from where I was at. I was at 395 agl at the time. near same results with the 4 hawks sr version with video lag the camera did not dropout though. rtl did kickin for short time though. last run with the 4hawks xr into michigan bit over 4000ft this time controller more pointed to the ground than right at the h520 got to 4200 ft out no video lag no camera dropout and for the very first time with this path no rtl kick in. I have a 5.8 ghz booster being shipped in and I do have a ham radio license. going to see if that will help with video lag issues when pointing the controller right at the h520.
 
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just got the 5.8 ghz booster in and that helped out just did 8 test flights with the e90 and c23 much smoother video no camera drops outs. 4hawks xr had one expected issue not suited for real close range at 300ft agl. waiting on rp sma extensions and 2 pig tails to connect yuneec oem antennas as backup. no issue with the 4hawks sr with or without the 5.8ghz booster was able to use 2 of my rp sma splitter adapter to connect the yuneec oem antennas as a backup. works even at close range at 300 ft agl. now unrealted issue with referb camera c23 the front where the removable glass ring is. well when unscrewing the glass lens, the piece that holds the ring to the camera detached from the camera frame.
 
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just got the 5.8 ghz booster in and that helped out just did 8 test flights with the e90 and c23 much smoother video no camera drops outs. 4hawks xr had one expected issue not suited for real close range at 300ft agl. waiting on rp sma extensions and 2 pig tails to connect yuneec oem antennas as backup. no issue with the 4hawks sr with or without the 5.8ghz booster was able to use 2 of my rp sma splitter adapter to connect the yuneec oem antennas as a backup. works even at close range at 300 ft agl. now unrealted issue with referb camera c23 the front where the removable glass ring is. well when unscrewing the glass lens, the piece that holds the ring to the camera detached from the camera frame.

The front filter section is attached to the front halve of the camera housing. You could hold the filter and pull it forward and place a couple of small dabs of super glue to the back of the silver part that meets the black plastic housing. I know I have dont it. My problem is I damaged the front camera housing so I ordered and received a new one from Yuneec UK. I don't know how to remove the damaged front section of the camera! If any of you could help I would be very grateful.
Cheers.
Mike
 
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just got the 5.8 ghz booster in and that helped out just did 8 test flights with the e90 and c23 much smoother video no camera drops outs. 4hawks xr had one expected issue not suited for real close range at 300ft agl. waiting on rp sma extensions and 2 pig tails to connect yuneec oem antennas as backup. no issue with the 4hawks sr with or without the 5.8ghz booster was able to use 2 of my rp sma splitter adapter to connect the yuneec oem antennas as a backup. works even at close range at 300 ft agl. now unrealted issue with referb camera c23 the front where the removable glass ring is. well when unscrewing the glass lens, the piece that holds the ring to the camera detached from the camera frame.

What brand is the 5.8GHz booster?
Ed Rios, Columbus, OH
KP4AKB
 
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sunhans 2w 5.8ghz 33dbm. powered from the usb port on the st16s. lowers the battery life to 3 flights before I have to change the st16s battery. about 60 min down from 1 hr and 20 min. trying to make up my mind about removing the camera mushroom antenna on one of my two cameras and replace it with a pigtail and use a splitter one for mushroom the other 5.8ghz rubber duck. see if that help with close range 4hawks xr. after I get the extension and other cables in to test the 4hawks xr with just yuneec stock omni antennas. I am not going to get extreme range because I do not have the 2.4ghz boosters. The 5.8 carries the telemetry signal from the camera which has been a weak link until now.
 
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just upgraded the setup. added 2 sunhans 2.4 ghz boosters. 3 20000mha usb battery packs one for each booster. 1 small plastic electronics project case to mount the 5.8 booster on in the middle of a larger plastic electronics case where the 2.4 ghz booster are mounted on each side. usb power wires are routed to inside the larger case where the usb battery packs are. 5.8 ghz is higher up compared the the 2.4 ghz boosters and all of them are lined up to the 4hawks antenna feed ports. waiting for the 10ft sma cables and sma to rpsma adapters. for the antenna's tripod.
 
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just got back in after 4 test flights. way better than I expected. discovered the pending the distance to control station versus battery level after passing 12200ft on yuneec h520 oem batteries will trigger rtl at that distance the flight battery was 44 percent the controller threw low battery return to land. unable to override until the h520 was 300ft from controller. basically now my limitation for distance is no longer restricted by the oem antennas. It now restricted by battery life. With the venom h520 battery I hit 13000 and was still bit over 50 percent left over however I decided to fly back to take off point to see if I would have total control or when flying backward rtl will trigger. Rtl did not trigger had had full stick control. I used 2 tripods one for the antenna setup and the other held the st16s. 5 mile diameter with yuneec oem batteries is satisfactory for me. venom h520 should give easy 6 to 7 mile radius. I have not tested ultra x batteries yet with this setup. however I expect 4 mile radius control with them. yuneec oem antennas 8000ft control radius max. I did not lose control link in flight even with yuneec oem h520 battery.
 
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arruntus

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Terrence, what's the 5.8 booster?

Pictures when it's finished?
 
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late update did 12 flights. 4 ultra x with 10 foot feeder cable between remote and antenna array second test flight set venom h520 with gifi largest capacity yuneec h pro and 6 ultra x with stock amp cables. results mixed 10 foot feeder cables go to 10000 to 12000 max but that might be with the flight path I used and the angle of the antenna and the sma to rpsma adapters that are required for the feeders rg314 . with stock rg402 cables from remote to booster is 12 inches and 6 inch rg402 and more flatten angle I hitting 12500ft to 14999 to bit over 15000ft and a optimal path. however I can not fly the drone and camera facing me from that far without taking a rtl hit. flying backwards no rtl at all with optimal flight path. also got it to hover stable with rg402 cable at a much closer distance to the controller at 395agl. this week I am on vacation and I am at area where I be doing much more testing with the new setup I have to remember to manually set the date and time on every st16s battery change. I am using drone log option on data pilot to review flight afterwards. this was done aug 8th and aug 9th. the booster gave me the three pigtails I need to do a camera antenna changeover.
 
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Another thing is I can not fully test it out I run out of battery power with my best battery time of 25 min I still runout of power before I lose connection with the camera. I have to charge up those usb power packs I use for the boosters. no power equals worse setup than stock oem and flakey wifi hardware combined.
 

Phaedrus

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FWIW, it might be worth looking at FCC Part 15.203 so you are at least aware of the legalities involved in modifying the antennas. Really only a likely issue if you are in an incident or accident, but still worth knowing about. (Only applies for US-based operators).
 
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here is a overhead shot of the 2 tripod setup you. the amps are behind the antenna. take from se corner of lamar lake Lamar mo and h520 was rock stable despite what was near by the ground station setup. again this was a success 8 test flights this time over water.
 

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final 8 test done at a vacation vbro site se of carthage mo. done in lowest part of a valley. better than expected results. no rtl triggered. so far equipment suitable in some areas when stock antennas give lag. not rated for over very small towns use yet. back to stock antennas because the setup is way over kill for the location I am at now lack of places to setup in the shade to keep the sun off the controller and help keep it not get to hot...
 

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