St16 battery dead?
- Thread starter Pier2162
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I received the used remote control, I had to adjust the profiles of the potentiometers because they had been tampered with, I copied them from mine that was not working, then I redid the calibration. There was a problem on the engines start button, it had been deactivated and assigned to the aux button: they had crushed the cables and one was broken. I replaced it using the one of the faulty radio control and then redid the assignments. I then did the bind of drone and camera and everything seems to work, hdmi too, as soon as the weather conditions allow it I will do a test flight.
I received the used remote control, I had to adjust the profiles of the potentiometers because they had been tampered with, I copied them from mine that was not working, then I redid the calibration. There was a problem on the engines start button, it had been deactivated and assigned to the aux button: they had crushed the cables and one was broken. I replaced it using the one of the faulty radio control and then redid the assignments. I then did the bind of drone and camera and everything seems to work, hdmi too, as soon as the weather conditions allow it I will do a test flight.
I've a question: I did a backup of the old ST16, should I replace all files in the new one?
I just try to fly, all is OK.
I just try to fly, all is OK.
I found the best way to restore all the channels to original settings is use the factory data reset. It's safer because there may be changes that I missed.
I've never used the backup function. If I do a reset I just make the changes that I need such as slowing down the Yaw.
On the new controller I found that the trims that adjust fwd-bkw-left-right do not activate the "Cruise control" as it did on its original. I checked the firmware and apk version and they are the same. Any advice?
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The trim tabs will not activate unless the drone is bound. A diagnostic would be to check if the left trim tab works to activate the camera controls.
If the camera controls (left trim tab) activate normally, a factory reset may clear hidden settings or APPS that are causing the problem.
If the camera controls do not activate, the minimum effort would be to delete the current model and rebind to the drone and camera. A better effort would be to do a factory reset.
If none of the above work, a hardware error related to the trim tab, including wires and connector, would be the next suspicion.
I've found that on the bottom of the windows, "ok" and "cancel" are almost totally hidden, as if the screen resolution is wrong. I'm able to push "ok" and so it works.
Any way to restore the right resolution?
Any way to restore the right resolution?
Does the window appear when only the left trim tab is activated, or does it now appear when either trim tab is activated?
I could not duplicate this appearance.
Have you done a factory reset?
Just now. Problem gone. Now I've to recalibrate all, tomorrow will fly again to test, no time now to recharge batteries.
Thank for your support
Edit: I noticed that if the battery is very low, to the point that the drone goes into autolanding, the GPS disables automatically. Is this normal?
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I don't know. It uses GPS for "Return Home", but I don't know about "Autoland" on low battery. Perhaps someone else will know.
Lots of bad things happen when the battery is that low. I always land when the voltage is 14.8.
If the battery has a weak cell the voltage can drop very quickly.
Yes, I agree. The problem happened because I was testing the new controller with a bad battery into the drone, but i had recharged it at 70%. I just try lift it up few meters but battery voltage drops immediately and drone starts autolanding. Once landed, the GPS was disabled (message on the ST16) and drone beeps continuously.
It's an old battery I use only for gps almanac refresh when the drone sleeps for 2~3 months during the winter, I do not use it for fly.
This morning I flew 2 batteries, all controls are working perfectly. Problem totally solved...spent 80€ for used controller and delivery... good deal I think.
It's an old battery I use only for gps almanac refresh when the drone sleeps for 2~3 months during the winter, I do not use it for fly.
This morning I flew 2 batteries, all controls are working perfectly. Problem totally solved...spent 80€ for used controller and delivery... good deal I think.
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Hi everyone,
Just a quick update on my ST16 issue. I’ve been running some checks around the power section near the USB port. What I found is that when USB is plugged in, the enable line goes high as expected, but after disconnecting USB it stays high, which keeps the converter active. That explains why the USB port still outputs 5 V when the ST16 is off and why the battery keeps discharging on its own.
I’m still working on the subject, but I thought it could be useful to share this progress here.
Just a quick update on my ST16 issue. I’ve been running some checks around the power section near the USB port. What I found is that when USB is plugged in, the enable line goes high as expected, but after disconnecting USB it stays high, which keeps the converter active. That explains why the USB port still outputs 5 V when the ST16 is off and why the battery keeps discharging on its own.
I’m still working on the subject, but I thought it could be useful to share this progress here.
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Thanks I try to stay up to date with all the daily drone headaches
- Joined
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Hi everyone,
I just wanted to give some feedback on my investigation into the ST16 battery drain problem. After a lot of testing, I was able to track the issue down to the power section near the USB port. The boost converter in that area was staying active even when the ST16 was turned off, which explained both the continuous 5 V present on the USB port and the self-discharge of the battery.
To confirm this, I removed the inductor connected to the converter. With the inductor desoldered, the problem disappeared completely: the enable line no longer stayed high when USB was disconnected, there was no more heat, and the battery stopped draining on its own.
So there are basically two options depending on how far you want to go with the repair:
Hopefully this can help anyone else facing the same issue.
I just wanted to give some feedback on my investigation into the ST16 battery drain problem. After a lot of testing, I was able to track the issue down to the power section near the USB port. The boost converter in that area was staying active even when the ST16 was turned off, which explained both the continuous 5 V present on the USB port and the self-discharge of the battery.
To confirm this, I removed the inductor connected to the converter. With the inductor desoldered, the problem disappeared completely: the enable line no longer stayed high when USB was disconnected, there was no more heat, and the battery stopped draining on its own.
So there are basically two options depending on how far you want to go with the repair:
- Quick fix: leave the inductor removed. This disables the 5 V OTG function on the USB port, but the ST16 works normally otherwise and the self-discharge problem is gone.
- Proper repair: replace the boost converter IC and reinstall the inductor. That restores the USB OTG function and brings the board back to its original state.
Hopefully this can help anyone else facing the same issue.
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Hi, if the inductor has been removed, does the HDMI Out still work without problems?
LG from Germany
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