Hello Fellow Yuneec Pilot!
Join our free Yuneec community and remove this annoying banner!
Sign up

Another strange quirk with this new breeze.

Joined
May 16, 2021
Messages
60
Reaction score
8
Age
45
Ok well I noticed that one the breeze heats up after being on for 5 min not even flying , the IRS will just go red in the app and if I push slightly on the IRS board on the corner near the heat sink the irs sensor goes blue. Now if I let it cold down and take off before it gets to warm the breeze will stay flying even when the sensor starts reporting red status on the app.
Now I decided to put the breeze in the freezer for 10 min and when I took it out the irs sensor worked for hours without failing.
I noticed unlike my other breeze when this irs sensor starts reporting red on the app screen (not the error msg ever just the red ,orange, blue status icon in android app) the irs is still on and the infrared blaster LED is still illuminated so it's not actully shutting off likethe other one with the bad solder job that would physically shut down the whole IRS board.
So any ideas what it may be ?
I know thier are four solder point on that little IRS board, so maybe on this one a diffrent contact is not soldered good and the heat is causing enough of an expansion to shut of the signal contact on this one , where my other one was a diffrent contact that supplied power to the ir blaster led and that why the new one stays on?
Or is this something else? Am I just caught up on the solder because of my first one and in doing so overlooking something else? Well hopefully someone has an idea. It flys great btw and will post a vid on this of a flight last night . Wish could just go into a mode where u dont use that sensor so it doesn't matter what that stupid thing is doing down there lol.
 
My first Breeze was sent in for a thermal issue. I could leave it on the desk and download to the computer via USB without it erroring out, but after flying for one battery (about 12 to 14 minutes) I would land swap batteries and get an error on start up. It would have to cool for 20 minutes or more before I was able to fly again. It ended up being replaced with a new one under warranty.

The new one would not tolerate sitting on a desk for downloading for more than about 10 minutes unless I had a fan blowing on it, but I could fly all three batteries one after the other without any pause other than power off, swap battery, and power up again.

I am not really sure what all the thermal issues are with the Breeze. I have had mine apart a few times for taking photos to do a guide for disassembly/reassembly. Breeze Disassembly Guide The EMI covers on the A9 board need to be in good contact with the heatsink to pull heat away from the enclosed IC’s. As I remember the ESC MOSFET’s have the IC casing in contact with the side rails of the heatsink where the M7 board mounts. A touch of thermal paste on each one may assist in heat dissipation.
 
My first Breeze was sent in for a thermal issue. I could leave it on the desk and download to the computer via USB without it erroring out, but after flying for one battery (about 12 to 14 minutes) I would land swap batteries and get an error on start up. It would have to cool for 20 minutes or more before I was able to fly again. It ended up being replaced with a new one under warranty.

The new one would not tolerate sitting on a desk for downloading for more than about 10 minutes unless I had a fan blowing on it, but I could fly all three batteries one after the other without any pause other than power off, swap battery, and power up again.

I am not really sure what all the thermal issues are with the Breeze. I have had mine apart a few times for taking photos to do a guide for disassembly/reassembly. Breeze Disassembly Guide The EMI covers on the A9 board need to be in good contact with the heatsink to pull heat away from the enclosed IC’s. As I remember the ESC MOSFET’s have the IC casing in contact with the side rails of the heatsink where the M7 board mounts. A touch of thermal paste on each one may assist in heat dissipation.
Yeah it's strange the only reason I think it's another soldering issue being exasperated by the heat is because if I put the tiniest of pressure on the one corner of the irs board the system can fly again right away till it jiggles again and mind u this is after a flight so its warm as ****.
If it was an ic overheating I would think I wouldn't be able to clear the error in realtime by applying a tiny amount of pressure to the little tiny board soldered to the top of the other flight/camera board.
I been looking through the photos and my other one thinking it might of been a bad thermal paste application like u said bit that's when I hit the board by accident and just happened to noticethe app screen change to ok on irs icon.
Wouldnt an overheating ic or other component need to cool to be fixed or reset and not just by applying pressue?
 
Where are you applying pressure to the IRS board? The side with the four solder leads or the opposite side where the mounting screw holds it on the post?
 
Where are you applying pressure to the IRS board? The side with the four solder leads or the opposite side where the mounting screw holds it on the post?
Ahh good question because unlike my other one it's not the side that is where the pins are like my other one was. It's across from it towards the heatsink I'll take a pic and attach it .
And only this side makes it work I could pretty much touch anywhere on the other one to make it connect I actually used a little piece of duct tape on the other one to get it to fly on its test flights since my solder iron wasn't available at the time.
I updated the firmware on it like u had suggested and right away I couldn't get a good video signal no matter what I did , lol so I was like whatever and took off anyways , as soon as the drone got 60feet away the vidsignal went clear and now I can go 400feet plus with perfect signal of video and no break up I didn't use the American newest version some ppl say that really messes up their vid signals . I am on the one before 0.1.39 I think it was .37 and it seems great on this and now the video since it fixed it's self after that 60 foot distance has been awesome. So atm don't know if I should bother trying other firmware . Is there any advantages to the Europe ones compared to the American? I know they use different 5.8ghz channels or frequency spread is greater I believe from reading but I'm not totally sure , I never scanned it's output yet , kinda strange that I havnt yet now that I think about it.
I use the controller when I fly also , but it seems the controller just hooks to the phone and the phone bridges the Inputs and relays them to the drone still using the phones wifi as the control rf signal to and from the drone. Is that correct ?
 

Attachments

  • 16258648717961382805164305664048.jpg
    16258648717961382805164305664048.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 7
  • Screenshot_20210707-182916_Breeze Cam.jpg
    Screenshot_20210707-182916_Breeze Cam.jpg
    364.1 KB · Views: 7
From where you are pressing it could still be a bad solder joint either on the IRS board or the pins at the M7 board. It could also indicate a cracked trace on the IRS board.

You will find the EU firmware will be more of a hindrance. The power level is lower than in the US firmware and it will do more channel hopping if it detects weather radar in use. Many EU users opt to use the US firmware and fly with the phone in airplane mode to disable the cellular connection to prevent it from updating to the EU firmware.

I think you may have posted the wrong photo showing the versions after updating. You can see what they should be in this post
Post in thread 'How To: Breeze WiFi and Firmware Issues'
How To: Breeze WiFi and Firmware Issues
 
Ahh strange your right I must of. Taken that before the update this is what it looks like now.
Ok yeah I actually found that the EU uses less power and it's better to us the us version.
Now does any of the firmware have better signal levels than others?
I have seen my signal drop to 1/4 on the icon but went back up to 3/4 once I got over 200 feet away.
The way the video was acting and the signals it seems like it works better rthe further away it is since the update , to me that's the opposite of what other have experienced so I'm at a loss to why that is happening.
I have seen a video on line of someone going almost a 1/4 mile or more on just the controller and a phone. I'll see if I can find the video I think they actually have the same hacked software as done by the people on this site.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20210709-180155_Breeze Cam.jpg
    Screenshot_20210709-180155_Breeze Cam.jpg
    363.7 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:

New Posts

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
20,955
Messages
241,593
Members
27,286
Latest member
lahorelaptop