My instructions are in post #10 of this thread, and you will need access to a multimeter and small soldering iron. If you need clarification on anything just PM me.
Ah, sorry for the mixup with Li-ion batteries! My mistake.
The battery was stored outside of the drone, plugged in to an unplugged charger. Could that have led to it becoming discharged? If so, I'm kicking myself since the battery is probably now much worse than it otherwise was before. It was in a 68-70 degree Fahrenheit room.
After charging to green, all cells were right around 4.18 V. I wanted to use the drone to check out a few things around my house, and will remeasure once I get back in.
That is definitely the problem! The battery has to be removed from the charger not just having the charger unplugged. You would get the same type of reaction if you left your phone plugged into the charging block and unplugged the block from the wall. Your phone’s battery would deplete much quicker.
Argh. I don't remember seeing documentation about that. Well, what's done is done, and now I know to not make that mistake. After a 2 minute flight, after letting things cool down, the Yuneec app reports 86% charge remaining. Cell 1: 3.93V; Cell 2: 3.93 V; Cell 3: 3.94 V.
Although I'm glad that I was able to get the battery working again so quickly, I wonder if there was option to use the modified USB cable in a more gradual way (i.e. with a lower current) to charge the depleted cells. I could feel the thin gauge wires heating up after just about 10-15 seconds of current being applied, and it probably would have been gentler to be brought from <1V to ~3V more slowly.
Many have used the USB cable when a cell was down to single digit mV and recovered the battery. It does not mean that it did not sustain permanent damage to longevity, but it is probably still usable. Most people get this by leaving the battery in an unplugged charger. When unplugged the charger will pull energy from the cells of the battery pack and deplete them to near 0 volts. Always store your batteries at a storage level of 3.7 to 3.85 volts per cell.
Many have used the USB cable when a cell was down to single digit mV and recovered the battery. It does not mean that it did not sustain permanent damage to longevity, but it is probably still usable. Most people get this by leaving the battery in an unplugged charger. When unplugged the charger will pull energy from the cells of the battery pack and deplete them to near 0 volts. Always store your batteries at a storage level of 3.7 to 3.85 volts per cell.
Yes! you can start restoring it with D cell batteries Tape a wire to each end of a D cell and use the cell diagram from the post earlier in this thread and charge each cell up over 1 volt. Then use two D cells in series like in a flashlight and charge the cells of the Breeze battery to around 3 volts. Try using the OEM charger at this point. If it still flashes blue, construct the USB charger cable and get each cell near 3.7 volts. It should then work properly in the OEM charger.
I suggest using D cell battries at first because the current availability will be less and less likely to cause overheating and/or fire.
If you get the battery to charge fully on the OEM charger, be cautious for several flights to see how well it will power your Breeze. Keep things low and slow until you know the battery will keep the Breeze in the air safely.
I was just about to give it a try with a phone charger (5V 1amp). I don't have any D batteries around.
Do you think I have a massive risk of it catching fire with the volrages being so low? I was only going to charge for 30 seconds or so and check the voltages again.
How long do you think for each cell?that should be fine, just give the cells a little boost and check them. It may take a while, but once you get over 3.2 volts in each cell the OEM charger will probably work.
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