CGO3P problem

[allegresse]

Hi, everyone.
I have a problem with my Typhoon H.
There is no problem with the flight, but I can’t turn on the camera
I tried the things below；
1. Replaced YUNTYH108
2. Installed a new camera
But the camera still doesn’t work.

I thought the camera was the problem at first, so I installed the first camera to another aircraft to see if it works well, and it does.
To add one more thing, I had an error while updating the firmware.
Do you think it's the problem of the ESC board?
I also took a look and made sure the cables were all in place.

What else can I try?
Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

 

[jannislh]

Do you think it's the problem of the ESC board?
I also took a look and made sure the cables were all in place.

What else can I try?
Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

Did you have any incident which prevented the camera from moving? It does not necessarily have to be a crash. Forgetting about that protective part which supports the camera during transport, while moving the drone around, might be enough.

On the circuit board is a little white Fuse marked with the letter K. It secures the current output to the whole camera. If it burns the camera is not operating anymore.

Do have basic equipment like a multimeter (with resistance measuring funcion) and a soldering iron available? Repairing that issue is quiet simple. I replaced mine with an ordinary glass fuse in order to make it simpler to change it the future in case it burns again.

 

[CraigCam]

Check your contacts at the shoe mount under the H. They can push up and not spring back down for proper contact. The fuse as previously stated is the other culprit.

 

[Steve Carr]

Right on both. One of these can cause the problem:

 

[allegresse]

Right on both. One of these can cause the problem:

View attachment 17377 View attachment 17376

I can't confirm anything special.

 

[Steve Carr]

The slide mount looks normal. You will need to check the K1 fuse with an ohm meter to determine if it is blown.

 

[allegresse]

The slide mount looks normal. You will need to check the K1 fuse with an ohm meter to determine if it is blown.

How do you do that? I wonder where + and - is it?

 

[Steve Carr]

It's better to test the fuse without the battery installed. An ohm meter measures resistance in a circuit. A fuse should read very close to zero ohms. A blown fuse will show no reading at all. You can get a digital multimeter at Walmart for about $15.

This guy show the use of a common meter sold at discount stores. The camera fuse can be checked in place without removing it.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

 

[jannislh]

A fuse is nothing more than a contained wire with a very precise diameter, which cause it to melt when a higher than allowed current passes. Since the wire is surrounded by a ceramic casing, there is no way to determine its condition just by looking at it. If a fuse with glass or platic case blows on the other hand it is usually quiet obvios since the wire is visibly divided or sometimes even gone entirely. In rare cases the is no connection anymore but it is not that visible somehow.

You do not have to care about + and - since it is technically nothing more than a wire.

Removing the battery is a pretty good advice since it is very easy to create short circuits while handling he multimeter. You just have to touch the PCB at the wrong spot.