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Failure to initialize and motors don't run. GUI check indicates Speed Controller failure.

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When my Typhoon H is started it emits 3 beeps and 3 red lights per second which indicates an initialization failure. I hooked it up to the GUI and it indicates a Speed Controller failure. I enabled testing on the motors and none of them ran.

Speed Controller(ESC) - Failed.JPG

All 6 props were damaged when attempting to get the drone on to the ground because the winds had severely picked up. A gust of wind flipped the drone and it landed upside down in a flower bed. The propellers and 5 of the 6 arm latch clips were broken.

The motors spin by hand and provide minimal resistance.

How do you fix this? Does the ESC board need to be replaced or just the 6 motor fuses?
 

Mrgs1

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Must of been a tremendous gust to flip it over onto the ground.
 

DoomMeister

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The fuses would be a good starting point. Check with @Steve Carr for more info on this job. I’m quite certain he has info and photos that will be helpful.
 

Mrgs1

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I remember reading this. The fuses are quite difficult to get to? Steve Carr will hopefully get you sorted.
 
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Must of been a tremendous gust to flip it over onto the ground.
It had actually landed, sort of. Only the very back part of the landing gear was in contact with the ground. I was applying full downward force in an attempt to get it all the way down and that wasn't working.

There was actually a serious thunderstorm coming into the area which had caused the winds to pick up which made me decide that it was time to land. Much to my embarrassment I had heard the weather forecast and thought I could get the video footage I needed shot before the storm hit. I let my ego get in the way and the results were fairly tragic.
 
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It is hard to believe all 6 fuses blow up at the same time. It will be wired never see something like that. You can check them with a multimeter anyway.
 

Steve Carr

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It is hard to believe all 6 fuses blow up at the same time. It will be wired never see something like that. You can check them with a multimeter anyway.
I'm not certain all six are blown. It might be another component of the board that is blown. We won't know until @HokieDrone replies back with his results.
 
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It could be the Main control board. I throw away all the bad ones but I remember I have this problem a long time ago I was able to connect to the GUI but I can't check the motors for spinning. Maybe I am wrong. It was better if I kept one for testing.
 

FlushVision

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Must of been a tremendous gust to flip it over onto the ground.
It doesn't take too much to flip a TH if conditions are right (or wrong depending on how you look at it). The crucial point is if that gust hits the aircraft at the time that it is just settling on to the ground before the props start winding down. But I admit, it would still take a fairly good gust to tip it over.

This is a prime example of the merits in hand catching a drone. Not everyone sees hand catching as a safe practice...not by a long shot, but if done with care and consideration it can be done safely. I used to almost exclusively ground land my TH but I now more often than not hand catch it especially if there is a good breeze or if the ground around me is rough or dusty.
 
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When my Typhoon H is started it emits 3 beeps and 3 red lights per second which indicates an initialization failure. I hooked it up to the GUI and it indicates a Speed Controller failure. I enabled testing on the motors and none of them ran.

View attachment 18741

All 6 props were damaged when attempting to get the drone on to the ground because the winds had severely picked up. A gust of wind flipped the drone and it landed upside down in a flower bed. The propellers and 5 of the 6 arm latch clips were broken.

The motors spin by hand and provide minimal resistance.

How do you fix this? Does the ESC board need to be replaced or just the 6 motor fuses?
Just to give an update and to hopefully resolve the problem:

1. I replaced the entire ESC board. Not a single one of the 6 motor fuses blew but several of the capacitors were damaged.
2. After replacing the ESC board the drone still didn't work and upon examination a chip in the Main Control Board was cracked.
3. I replaced the Main Control Board and everything passes in the GUI. However, I can't get the drone to bind to the ST16. Tipping the drone forward to 45 degrees twice does get the drone to go into bind mode and the main LED does blink orange but it doesn't show up under the aircraft Model list after hitting refresh.

I'm thinking that the antenna or its chip must have been damaged when the drone landed on its head after it flipped. I've reached out to the Yuneec service people and haven't received a response back from them.

This has taken a long time to get even this far. Yuneec was extremely slow in shipping parts. I replaced the ESC board back in October but there was a long delay in shipping the spare Main Control Board. We had to move onto another construction site in Texas and the spare Main Control Board actually arrived after we left for Texas. We're back in New York and I just put in the spare and now the binding problem has popped up.

We had to shoot back in October and November with a back up drone and it got damaged when a bird flew into the rear right propeller. The drone actually flew with half a propeller on that arm before the other half broke off just before I started its descent. It went into an uncommanded yaw in the counterclockwise direction before it was brought down. It went into 5 motor mode which is not as stable as you'd hope. To avoid damaging the camera I hand captured the drone. Upon examination, the arm was actually broken completely through at the attachment fitting. It was amazing that it flew like that with just half a propeller too! A repair was made by using boat epoxy. I ordered a spare arm from Yuneec along with the spare Main Control Board but it didn't arrive until after our departure.

I bought a 3rd drone off eBay to add as a backup for Drone #2 and had it shipped to the location in Texas. It was up 400 feet in the air and went into 5 motor mode and I brought it down right away. It also was not stable and was pitching erratically and I hand captured it too. It had lost half the left front propeller and the motor was extremely hot. I tested it on the GUI later and it wouldn't run so I replaced the motor with a spare I bought on Amazon. It works fine now. Also it was easier to pass the motor wire down the arm then what I've seen shown in videos on YouTube. Getting the lamp shade off the motor was impossible so I bought a lamp shade tool from one of the resellers. It's definitely worth the price!

I've also bought the composite propellers from MayTech. They wouldn't go on Drone #2 or Drone #3 but the replacement arm that came from Yuneec didn't have the propeller quick disconnect base on it but when I put the quick disconnect base I bought from the reseller on it the composite blade went on just fine. It turns out that the OEM quick disconnect bases have a slightly different slot in them than the aftermarket ones do. I've ordered more bases from the resupplier and they are arriving today and I'm hoping to fly with them either tomorrow or Saturday. Nothing flies without some testing first.

I also bought the Flight Simulator from Yuneec. It arrived with the spare Main Control Board and arm. I was able to bind it to the controller without any problems. The simulator itself is okay but it doesn't seem to do what I hoped it would. It doesn't seem to be able to send simulated camera images back to the ST16 controller. It does have value in that I can try things I wouldn't dream of doing with an actual drone and I'm sure that it would help a novice get up to speed fairly quickly without the risk of crashing but it won't do any of the advanced tasks that a real drone will.
 

WTFDproject

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I replaced the Main Control Board and everything passes in the GUI. However, I can't get the drone to bind to the ST16. Tipping the drone forward to 45 degrees twice does get the drone to go into bind mode and the main LED does blink orange but it doesn't show up under the aircraft Model list after hitting refresh.
There are four wires between the receiver and the mainboard. Different wires having a problem can sometimes create specific symptoms. Please check the following and let us know what you see:

Power the drone on, and look down into the vents of the top shell, just to the left of the GPS hump. You should barely be able see a little bit of orange light flashing at about one flash per second. Then tilt the drone forward to enter bind mode, and look at the small orange receiver light again. (not to be confused with the rear LED, which will also be flashing orange at this point) The small, internal orange light on the receiver should now be flashing at about 3 flashes per second. If this is not what you see, please describe what you do see.

Or, pull the shell and check the receiver wiring and it's connector. You will probably wind up doing that anyway, regardless of what the quick check shows.
 
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WTFDproject

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You can also check the connector by looking into the battery box with the drone upside down:

TH Reciever Plug.jpg

You may notice how focused I am on a wiring issue. That comes from history. Anytime the shell is taken apart and reassembled there is a chance of crushing a wire between two parts somewhere, or driving a screw through a wire.
 
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There are four wires between the receiver and the mainboard. Different wires having a problem can sometimes create specific symptoms. Please check the following and let us know what you see:

Power the drone on, and look down into the vents of the top shell, just to the left of the GPS hump. You should barely be able see a little bit of orange light flashing at about one flash per second. Then tilt the drone forward to enter bind mode, and look at the small orange receiver light again. (not to be confused with the rear LED, which will also be flashing orange at this point) The small, internal orange light on the receiver should now be flashing at about 3 flashes per second. If this is not what you see, please describe what you do see.

Or, pull the shell and check the receiver wiring and it's connector. You will probably wind up doing that anyway, regardless of what the quick check shows.
I could see a small orange dot blinking when looking through the vents but it was on the right hand side of the drone when looking forward and it would only blink about once every ten seconds. After I tilted it forward twice I didn't see the dot anymore and there was a blue light blinking towards the very back.

The controller would show that obstacle avoidance had failed when I put the drone into bind mode and that would disappear when I shut the drone down. I repeated this 4 times and it happened the exact same way each time. Is it possible that the controller is getting some kind of signal from the drone even though it's not bound to it?
 

WTFDproject

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I could see a small orange dot blinking when looking through the vents but it was on the right hand side of the drone when looking forward and it would only blink about once every ten seconds. After I tilted it forward twice I didn't see the dot anymore and there was a blue light blinking towards the very back.
I don't see anything on the right hand side except a small part of the rear LED that shows through a gap at the edge of the LED cover.
This picture is of the Receiver LED as it appears on my H with the top shell removed.
Reciever LED.jpg

If you already checked the connection via the battery box, it may be time to swap out your receiver with a spare, or one from one of your other drones.
 

WTFDproject

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Well, this is what I saw from above when I removed the top shell.
Yeah. That's not the receiver. The receiver is on the left side of the battery box, stuck on with a piece of two sided tape. (See picture below)
By coincidence, you CAN barely see the receiver connection plug, just under the edge of the main board. You can even make out a little bit of one of the grey wires. It is marked on these crops from your photo.
The plug is a LITTLE crooked, but doesn't really look like enough out to be an issue.

Did you see a bright orange light on the side of the battery box?

Receiver3s.jpg Reciever plug 1.JPG Reciever plug 2.jpg
 

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