Gimbal wire.
- Thread starter Peter b
- Start date
Before I babble to much, are you talking about a CGo3?
If you are, DO NOT plug in the "pigtail" until we talk. It's probably too late to tell you not to turn on the drone, but don't do that either, with the camera mounted, until you safely secure the loose wires. They are still ENERGIZED.
If you are, DO NOT plug in the "pigtail" until we talk. It's probably too late to tell you not to turn on the drone, but don't do that either, with the camera mounted, until you safely secure the loose wires. They are still ENERGIZED.
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Yes it's a cgo3 and I think I will have to send it back because two others came undone also. This happened once before, my fault both times. T he worse part is the SD card popped out also, can't find it with some cool footage on it.
I am guessing at this point which wires you are talking about. The three little black wires that go from the camera mount to the gimbal board are the ones most commonly discussed, and result in the most sever damage if not controlled. However, it is also the easiest to remedy immediately if you know the whole story. Please clarify which wires are loose, and I think I can help without having to send it in.
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One wire is connected from the bottom of the camera holder and the other two come from the drone connecter on thethe bottom of the drone.
Background:
Any/all wires still connected to the drone contact plate (Hot Shoe) are energized.
Two of the wires carry full battery voltage. The other carries a couple of volts in the form of the camera tilt signal. They sometimes have a bit of exposed wire or solder at the loose end. They are potential short circuits. If the two battery related wires make contact, they heat up the internal wires all the way back through the drone to the mainboard. At the mainboard, the thinly insulated "positive" wire is often laying across the exposed "negative" power solder pads. When the short at the camera occurs, the insulation melts until a full short is created between the positive and negative motor power at the mainboard. The result is substantial damage to the mainboard.
If the Positive wire in the camera comes in contact with the signal wire, it can damage either a small chip that feeds the signal, or it can damage the main board CPU. Result is either no more camera tilt, or no more anything.
Some folks have even stuffed the broken wires into the back of the camera (to make it look "neat"?) The bare wires eventually (or immediately) make contact with bare metal and circuit components on the gimbal control board. Result is end of gimbal board.
Remedy:
The first thing to do is to secure the wires. Some available options are:
1.) Insulate the broken ends of the wires with a piece of tape or a spot of glue.
OR
2.) Clip the wires completely off at the contact plate circuit board and at the gimbal board.
OR
3.) Remove the slide mount from the drone, unplug the Hot Shoe connector, and reinstall the slide mount. Unplugging this connector only takes power off wires that are still attached at the Hot Shoe end. Any still connected at the gimbal board end will need to be addressed by another method, such as by clipping or insulation. They get back-fed from the pigtail.
Next, inspect the area where the wires were originally soldered to the gimbal board. If any of the tracing is pulled loose, ensure it is back in its original position, and glue it down with something. A dab of epoxy is good.
AFTER the wires are secured, use the short black "pigtail" wire that was supplied in your original kit. It plugs into the back of the camera, and then into the plug under the rubber dust cover. If the camera/drone has not already experienced damage, the camera will work EXACTLY the same from the "pigtail" as is does from the normal "Hot shoe". They are the same wires inside the drone.
Any/all wires still connected to the drone contact plate (Hot Shoe) are energized.
Two of the wires carry full battery voltage. The other carries a couple of volts in the form of the camera tilt signal. They sometimes have a bit of exposed wire or solder at the loose end. They are potential short circuits. If the two battery related wires make contact, they heat up the internal wires all the way back through the drone to the mainboard. At the mainboard, the thinly insulated "positive" wire is often laying across the exposed "negative" power solder pads. When the short at the camera occurs, the insulation melts until a full short is created between the positive and negative motor power at the mainboard. The result is substantial damage to the mainboard.
If the Positive wire in the camera comes in contact with the signal wire, it can damage either a small chip that feeds the signal, or it can damage the main board CPU. Result is either no more camera tilt, or no more anything.
Some folks have even stuffed the broken wires into the back of the camera (to make it look "neat"?) The bare wires eventually (or immediately) make contact with bare metal and circuit components on the gimbal control board. Result is end of gimbal board.
Remedy:
The first thing to do is to secure the wires. Some available options are:
1.) Insulate the broken ends of the wires with a piece of tape or a spot of glue.
OR
2.) Clip the wires completely off at the contact plate circuit board and at the gimbal board.
OR
3.) Remove the slide mount from the drone, unplug the Hot Shoe connector, and reinstall the slide mount. Unplugging this connector only takes power off wires that are still attached at the Hot Shoe end. Any still connected at the gimbal board end will need to be addressed by another method, such as by clipping or insulation. They get back-fed from the pigtail.
Next, inspect the area where the wires were originally soldered to the gimbal board. If any of the tracing is pulled loose, ensure it is back in its original position, and glue it down with something. A dab of epoxy is good.
AFTER the wires are secured, use the short black "pigtail" wire that was supplied in your original kit. It plugs into the back of the camera, and then into the plug under the rubber dust cover. If the camera/drone has not already experienced damage, the camera will work EXACTLY the same from the "pigtail" as is does from the normal "Hot shoe". They are the same wires inside the drone.
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