Hello fellow pilots! SkySpy here with another problem. I recently purchase a Q-500K. The camera was damaged when I purchased it so I sent it in to Yuneec for repair. Meanwhile I flew the drone without the camera. Several weeks ago I got the camera back. I had problems trying to bind and calibrate which brought me to this forum. WTFproject and others were very generous with their time and got me going. Today was my first opportunity to try to fly the drone with the camera. I carry the drone in a Hul Unlimited case specifically made for this drone. All the foam interior is precisely cut the drone and controller. I carry this case in the bed of my 2000 GMC Sierra. I have a Tonneau cover so I'm not worried about theft. Unfortunately, this truck......well, rides like a truck. I noticed when I removed the drone from the case, the gimble cover was no longer in place. As i prepared to calibrate the drone i noticed the camera vibrating. It appeared to be stuck tilted to one side. I could see the tilted image in my control screen. I turned off both the control and drone. Removed the gimble. Gently tried to move the gimble back to the level position. No luck. Reattached the gimble to the drone thinking it may reset. Nope! Does anyone have any suggestions before I box it back up and send it in once again for repair? As always, thanks for your help!
Gimble Jammed
- Thread starter SkySpy
- Start date
Is it jammed something like this? ( I'm pretty sure you are talking about a mechanical jam from bouncing around, not a calibration issue?)
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If it's just mechanically jammed, as in the picture above, the short answer is:
Hold the mount in one hand, the camera ball in the other. Pull gently apart just enough to flex the rear arm enough to clear the mount. It won't hurt the motor or permanently bend the arm if you don't overdo it.
If You aren't comfortable with this, the answer is longer. You will have to remove the rear motor from it's housing. There is a thread on here somewhere that I posted illustrated instructions.
Hold the mount in one hand, the camera ball in the other. Pull gently apart just enough to flex the rear arm enough to clear the mount. It won't hurt the motor or permanently bend the arm if you don't overdo it.
If You aren't comfortable with this, the answer is longer. You will have to remove the rear motor from it's housing. There is a thread on here somewhere that I posted illustrated instructions.
Hello WTF project! Yes, it is not quite that far. If this one in the photo is 180 degrees, mine is at about 160. Okay, I will give it a try. Thank you!
It's kinda funny how it fits so well in that position. Even though it's not meant to do that.
Turns out the "illustrated instructions' were NOT posted in this forum. The post was originally about getting clear access to the three screws that hold the rear arm to the top motor. Same thing if you just need to do this to clear a severe jam, except you probably only need to go as far as loosening the rear motor mount screws.
You are going to be working with some thin plastic, small screws and flimsy wire. The words "patience", "careful" and "gently" should govern your work for this project. You will also be touching some electronic components. You need to be mindful of static electricity. An antistatic wrist band, or some sort of grounding are advised. At the very least, ensure you touch something else on the camera BEFORE you touch any of the sensitive components. READ THROUGH THIS FIRST. If you don't feel confident, then don't do it. You can mess your camera up pretty easily with this.
With the nagging aside, here is how to temporarily remove the rear motor of a CGo3:
1.) Use your fingernails, or some thin plastic to pry the label off the rear motor cover. It is held on by contact cement, and if you keep both sides clean, it will go right back on.
2.) Place the label, glue down, on something clean.
3.) Remove THESE TWO screws from the rear motor cover. (leave the other two alone for now)
4.) Remove this one from the side of the rear motor cover.
5.) And this one from the other side:
6.) Pry the "wings" of the rear motor cover out ONLY enough to clear the interferences: (Remember the "Thin Plastic" nag at the start of this note)
7.) Slide the rear motor cover off and set it aside:
8.) NOW remove these two screw from the rear motor position sensor: (Remember the "static electricity" nag.)
9.) GENTLY tilt the rear motor position sensor out of the way, (The "flimsy wire" nag), and remove the four motor mount screws:
10.) Gently slide the motor forward out of the support arm cage.
11.) Assembly is pretty much “reverse the process”. Don't forget the static, and ensure the right size screw goes in each hole.
You are going to be working with some thin plastic, small screws and flimsy wire. The words "patience", "careful" and "gently" should govern your work for this project. You will also be touching some electronic components. You need to be mindful of static electricity. An antistatic wrist band, or some sort of grounding are advised. At the very least, ensure you touch something else on the camera BEFORE you touch any of the sensitive components. READ THROUGH THIS FIRST. If you don't feel confident, then don't do it. You can mess your camera up pretty easily with this.
With the nagging aside, here is how to temporarily remove the rear motor of a CGo3:
1.) Use your fingernails, or some thin plastic to pry the label off the rear motor cover. It is held on by contact cement, and if you keep both sides clean, it will go right back on.
2.) Place the label, glue down, on something clean.
3.) Remove THESE TWO screws from the rear motor cover. (leave the other two alone for now)
4.) Remove this one from the side of the rear motor cover.
5.) And this one from the other side:
6.) Pry the "wings" of the rear motor cover out ONLY enough to clear the interferences: (Remember the "Thin Plastic" nag at the start of this note)
7.) Slide the rear motor cover off and set it aside:
8.) NOW remove these two screw from the rear motor position sensor: (Remember the "static electricity" nag.)
9.) GENTLY tilt the rear motor position sensor out of the way, (The "flimsy wire" nag), and remove the four motor mount screws:
10.) Gently slide the motor forward out of the support arm cage.
11.) Assembly is pretty much “reverse the process”. Don't forget the static, and ensure the right size screw goes in each hole.
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Just tried it. It seems to have worked. There was a slight pop when it first moved but now it appears to be free. Will connect it to the drone and see what happens.
Hello WTFproject! Well, I just logged in my first flight with the complete Q500. Everything seems to be working fine. Very smooth movements! Thanks for sending me the detailed instructions for the gimble repair. I will save these. In order to prevent this same scenario from reoccurring I now secure the gimble protector to the gimble with a strip of velcro before I put it in the case.
[QUOTE="I now secure the gimble protector to the gimble with a strip of velcro before I put it in the case.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for letting me know how it turned out.
And the Velcro might be a really good idea. My truck is a '96 Dodge Ram. Talk about "riding like a truck"? Yeah.
It was a pleasure talking to you.
Thanks for letting me know how it turned out.
And the Velcro might be a really good idea. My truck is a '96 Dodge Ram. Talk about "riding like a truck"? Yeah.
It was a pleasure talking to you.
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Hello Tom, A 96 Dodge Ram.....a classic! I saw a 2500 Cummings a while back. Silver with all the badges removed. A beautiful truck!
I'm a retired industrial photographer selling GMCs at a local dealership in Lake Charles, Louisiana. I bought my first drone, the Q500 from our company VP this past summer. I have three now. The Q500, Breeze, and a DJI Spark. I may buy a second Q500 in the future, they are such a good buy!
Mike Frugé ( A french name, the "e" sounds like an "a")
I'm a retired industrial photographer selling GMCs at a local dealership in Lake Charles, Louisiana. I bought my first drone, the Q500 from our company VP this past summer. I have three now. The Q500, Breeze, and a DJI Spark. I may buy a second Q500 in the future, they are such a good buy!
Mike Frugé ( A french name, the "e" sounds like an "a")
