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How to: Maintenance Compilation
- Thread starter Eagle's Eye Video
- Start date
Please Note: In all of these compass calibration videos, you can see the way the gimbal is fighting the rotation during the compass calibration. It is considered a best practice to remove the camera, before calibrating the compass. There will be much less wear and tear on the internal gimbal motors... your camera will thank you and the additional benefit is without the camera, it is easier to smoothly rotate the aircraft and complete in the under 30 seconds suggested timeframe.
Also remember that both the compass and accelerometer calibrations self complete by re-booting the H. With the Gimbal calibration, you must manually cycle the H off and then on, to complete the procedure.
Also remember that both the compass and accelerometer calibrations self complete by re-booting the H. With the Gimbal calibration, you must manually cycle the H off and then on, to complete the procedure.
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Not good when the gimbal motors have to fight the calibration process. Are the motors direct drive or are there miniature gearboxes in the gimbal?
I am initially including this video as the only one specifically for the most recent, current firmware for the US. Any suggested videos specific to the other global regions will be welcome. Frankly any Typhoon H's currently being sold, should have this stable firmware version already loaded... as it was released in March 2017. It should also be noted that the issues in using or updating firmware are directly proportional to how recently the firmware was released. At this stage there should be no issues with this FW for the Typhoon H.
Firmware updating can vary with the model aircraft you use... for instance the Typhoon H and H Pro (as of Firmware version 3.0), can be updated via Over the Air (OTA) or the firmware can be downloaded off of the Yuneec website and subsequently loaded onto both aircraft and controller via SD card. Depending on the website you go to (Yuneec US vs. Yuneec UK or Germany, for example) you will download the appropriate FW version for the region where you live.
Firmware updating can vary with the model aircraft you use... for instance the Typhoon H and H Pro (as of Firmware version 3.0), can be updated via Over the Air (OTA) or the firmware can be downloaded off of the Yuneec website and subsequently loaded onto both aircraft and controller via SD card. Depending on the website you go to (Yuneec US vs. Yuneec UK or Germany, for example) you will download the appropriate FW version for the region where you live.
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I've never had the gimbal apart, so I would not know... maybe someone else on the board could answer.
Maintaining your equipment is key to having all of the systems that enable us to defy gravity, work together... and we develop checklists that help us do that with each flight. One of those items on your checklist should be a simple, but thorough stirring of the sticks, just before powering up the ST-16. If you live in a drier area with more dust, it would be advisable to use some canned air, to give the sticks a quick cleaning.
Monitoring your controller is done through the hardware monitor... one of the menu choices in the ST-16 System Settings. One of the better threads, by our own @gwhuntoon on this can be found here:
Reason for Issues with the ST-16
Here is one YouTube video on cleaning the sticks from the outside:
sometimes it works, but other times you must do some minor disassembly of the controller, to get at the pots directly:
ONLY use a electronic contact cleaner that is safe for plastics:
QD CRC Electronics Cleaner
This set of tools comes highly recommended by our own @Steve Carr:
Neewer Hex Driver Set
The hex sizes needed for opening up the ST-16 are 2.5mm and 1.5mm.
Monitoring your controller is done through the hardware monitor... one of the menu choices in the ST-16 System Settings. One of the better threads, by our own @gwhuntoon on this can be found here:
Reason for Issues with the ST-16
Here is one YouTube video on cleaning the sticks from the outside:
sometimes it works, but other times you must do some minor disassembly of the controller, to get at the pots directly:
ONLY use a electronic contact cleaner that is safe for plastics:
QD CRC Electronics Cleaner
This set of tools comes highly recommended by our own @Steve Carr:
Neewer Hex Driver Set
The hex sizes needed for opening up the ST-16 are 2.5mm and 1.5mm.
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OK, so you've gone though the cleaning of the sticks, you go back into Hardware Monitor, and some controls still either show less than 100% deflection, or less than back to 0% on release. Well, I can help you out... but you can't tell anyone, it's secret revealed by @Peter Venkman:
ST-16 Secret Menu Calibration
Some specifics about the secret menu... do not perform this procedure without having completed the cleaning posted above. It does a recalibration of all controls, under the assumption that there are no physical issues... such as dirt or oxidation. If you skip the cleaning process, the secret menu calibration can potentially make the undesired stick behavior worse.
Before performing the calibration, make sure both tilt and turtle/rabbit wheels are centered (where the ST-16 beeps)(make sure you put both wheels back to center before going to the next step)... you must complete the calibration on all controls... both pages, or you will need to restart over.
Click on the link below to go directly to that ST-16 calibration section
Secret Menu - 11 minutes in
ST-16 Secret Menu Calibration
Some specifics about the secret menu... do not perform this procedure without having completed the cleaning posted above. It does a recalibration of all controls, under the assumption that there are no physical issues... such as dirt or oxidation. If you skip the cleaning process, the secret menu calibration can potentially make the undesired stick behavior worse.
Before performing the calibration, make sure both tilt and turtle/rabbit wheels are centered (where the ST-16 beeps)(make sure you put both wheels back to center before going to the next step)... you must complete the calibration on all controls... both pages, or you will need to restart over.
Click on the link below to go directly to that ST-16 calibration section
Secret Menu - 11 minutes in
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A couple of noteworthy threads, covering the aspects of some advanced ST-16 tweaks... adjusting rate curve settings for both flight behavior and camera movement...
Adjusting Expo Curves
New K2 Gimbal Settings
A caution to new pilots... these changes will affect how the aircraft responds to your stick inputs. Please spend at least 25+ hours using your ST-16 as designed and programmed by Yuneec before attempting these adjustments. If you make changes, and subsequently crash as a result of your changes, that will be considered a "Pilot Error" incident.
Adjusting Expo Curves
New K2 Gimbal Settings
A caution to new pilots... these changes will affect how the aircraft responds to your stick inputs. Please spend at least 25+ hours using your ST-16 as designed and programmed by Yuneec before attempting these adjustments. If you make changes, and subsequently crash as a result of your changes, that will be considered a "Pilot Error" incident.
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Very informative thread, thanks! I do have a question though. Are all ST 16"s compatible with all Typhoon H's? I've considered purchasing a newer ground station as a spare or "jic". The one I'm considering has 3 antennae whereas the one that came with my H has only two. What could I expect to encounter as far as pairing/binding, etc.??
The ST-16 (2 external antennae version) and the ST-16+ (3 external antennae version) are compatible with both the Typhoon H and the Typhoon H Pro aircraft. Note that I specified external antennae, because the base ST-16 has 3 antennae just as the ST-16+. It simply has one of the 3 internally. Binding, firmware are all the same for both.
As well as the H920, if your eyesight isn’t what it used to be and need a bigger aircraft to stay VLOS compliant.
Before powering up the system, turn the aircraft upside down... on the underside, where the front of the gimbal mount meets the body of the H, there is a ribbed tab... press that down, and slide the camera forward. Reverse the process to replace after the calibration.
Be careful that all six of the spring contacts are free to flex and connect with the contacts on the corresponding faceplate. If caught on an edge, use a toothpick to free the stuck contact. Fortunately this procedure can be practiced at your leisure. If inattentive or careless, you can damage the gimbal mount,
Be careful that all six of the spring contacts are free to flex and connect with the contacts on the corresponding faceplate. If caught on an edge, use a toothpick to free the stuck contact. Fortunately this procedure can be practiced at your leisure. If inattentive or careless, you can damage the gimbal mount,
