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Possible reason for many issues with the Typhoon H, the ST16

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For those of you experiencing the following –

Tipping while landing
Difficulty shutting down motors
Slow or sluggish yaw (rudder) response
Drifting

Go into the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor and check the deflection of J1, J2, J3, and J4 feedback from the left and right sticks. Initially you should be centered on all 4 with no stick input.

Full left/right, and up/down stick movement should show 0 to either -100 or 100 on J1, J2, J3, and J4 and immediately return to 0 when the sticks are centered.

My yaw was slow to non-existent in turtle mode. In the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor, J2 for mode 2 yaw, my left stick, was showing slightly off center and would only go from -30 to 50. In addition centering wouldn’t return to center immediately, it slowly sort of returned to center depending on if the stick was moved positive or negative. Unless you’ve customized your ST16 settings, this isn’t a calibration issue it’s a dirty potentiometer in the stick gimbal.

I opened my ST16, carefully noted and unplugged the two wires going to my left gimbal and removed my gimbal by removing the 4 screws on the front of the ST16. I then used plastic safe electronic component cleaner on the pots in the gimbal. Once clean and dry I carefully replaced the gimbal, its two connectors, sealed up the ST16 and went into System Settings -> Hardware Monitor. J2 wasn’t centered but I was now getting full deflection and instant return to center. I then went into the secret menu and re-calibrated all of my controls. Now J2 was acting like J1, J3, and J4 and was immediately returning to center. Problem solved. I tested, the H and my rudder yaw was back for both turtle to rabbit mode.

This got me thinking, what if this had happened to the throttle, roll, or pitch input? Well, you might have tipping while landing, difficulty shutting down motors, slow, or sluggish to no rudder response, and drifting.

If you're having any of the above symptoms, I would look at the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor first and make sure full left/right, and up/down stick movement show 0 to either -100 or 100 on J1, J2, J3, and J4 and immediately return to 0 when the sticks are centered.

BTW – These must be cheap pots being used. Until after many years of use, I’ve never had a radio stick give me issues.
 
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Steve Carr

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Go into the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor
You did it the proper way. I see far too many people using the ST16 calibration when the real problem is dirty pots on the stick. If you calibrate a faulty pot you end up making the problem worse. Checking the sticks using Hardware Monitor should always be the first step and it should be done every few flights to make sure things are normal.
Good work gw.
 

CraigCam

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You did it the proper way. I see far too many people using the ST16 calibration when the real problem is dirty pots on the stick. If you calibrate a faulty pot you end up making the problem worse. Checking the sticks using Hardware Monitor should always be the first step and it should be done every few flights to make sure things are normal.
Good work gw.

Agreed. I now go to hardware monitor preflight and make sure I'm getting proper values especially on that left stick. I have 3 ST 16s now. My original one is the most problematic and requires the most attention. It's obviously not using the hi grade sticks like an expensive Futaba but those aren't proprietary either so they are in other radios - most likely DX series as Yuneec used a "custom" DX4 for the Blade products. Later, when the Chroma got the ST10 and CGO2, you could really see Yuneec was really the company behind those Horizon products and the release of the Q500 shut down the Chroma line. As Pat R has stated, that's unfortunate as the Chroma is a good starter camera quad. So I believe replacement sticks can be found easily and it's not that hard to swap out.
 

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GW, if you think of it the next time you perform this procedure, could you do a quick video to put up on YouTube? :)
 
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GW, if you think of it the next time you perform this procedure, could you do a quick video to put up on YouTube? :)
Sure thing. I haven't yet done a YouTube video yet but a visual would definitely help. In the absence of visual aids, I attempted to be as clear and concise as possible with this post.

I would like to hear from others whether or not my assumptions regarding the issues I mentioned may be related to dirty pots on the ST16. I'm sure they all aren't but hopefully this experience will be of use to others.
 

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Sure thing. I haven't yet done a YouTube video yet but a visual would definitely help. In the absence of visual aids, I attempted to be as clear and concise as possible with this post.

I appreciate it sir! You were not deficient in your posting at all, but sum of us slow lerners like them pikshurs... :rolleyes:

Seriously though, it looks like the type of long term maintenance that I should feel comfortable to perform...
and a step by step specifically on the ST-16 would be of great benefit. Not going to trust my skills to
do this based on a general pot cleaning video. I think I can turn and spray OK. :eek:
 
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I had one doing this, and all I did was use a can of air to blow the gimbal from the inside and it cured it. So I am assuming it is dirt getting in from to top of the gimbal into the mechanical part rather than the electronics. I agree they are not the best quality. None of my DX series gimals are small enough to mount in the ST-16 . Mounting holes are spaced different. So either they are proprietary or from some other manufacturer. I searched the web with no luck. We are probably going to have to live with them and just do scheduled maintenance on them.
 

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Sure thing. I haven't yet done a YouTube video yet but a visual would definitely help. In the absence of visual aids, I attempted to be as clear and concise as possible with this post.

I would like to hear from others whether or not my assumptions regarding the issues I mentioned may be related to dirty pots on the ST16. I'm sure they all aren't but hopefully this experience will be of use to others.

We can be fairly certain some percentage of issues are related to poor gimbal contacts and dirty pots. Just "stirring the sticks" before arming motors would catch most of them. We don't see the level of gimbal quality in consumer drone transmitters we became accustomed to with higher end RC systems so we should anticipate it will require less contamination to generate more issues with consumer drones. You can't make money selling at low prices if you use the best components.
 
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You can't make money selling cheap components if they create warranty claims and dissatisfied customers either. Specially control related components. And products with "Pro" label on them. I sure hope the 520 is a bit more refined.
 
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Steve Carr

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The H520 is will still be using the ST16. The sticks are the same as used in the ST10. I've seen a number of these sticks that needed cleaning right out of the bag so I have assumed much of the problem is oxidation from sitting on a shelf somewhere. Cleaning with the spray treatment seems to last for a long time.
 

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It's an easy fix but they should not have a gimbal as a weak point in the controller. For many it's the most they'll ever touch on it.
 

Steve Carr

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True. I would guess some of the component choices are warranty based decisions rather than longevity. Most of us here are the test lab rats left to figure out the best methods to deal with the problems after warranty. In this case it's better to do the maintenance than rely on the warranty.
 
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The way the H is designed, most of the aircraft system repairs are within the capabilities of a reasonably mechanical person with basic electrical assembly experience. Some of the -16 components are very much plug and play. But those that are not comfortable with it or doubt their ability should leave everything to a repair station.
 

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The way the H is designed, most of the aircraft system repairs are within the capabilities of a reasonably mechanical person with basic electrical assembly experience. Some of the -16 components are very much plug and play. But those that are not comfortable with it or doubt their ability should leave everything to a repair station.

The ST radio side is pretty straightforward. Look how many get in there and tweak antennas. They did upgrade the long switches to a more robust switch so maybe just maybe they got better sticks into the ST for the 520. It's one thing for me as a hobbyist to know to fiddle with the sticks pre flight but if you are marketing a competitive commercial market drone, you'd think this would not still be an issue for them especially during the roll out.
 
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It would be nice, (Yuneec if you're listening) of they would offer an optional upgrade stick assembly Like Frsky does for the Taranis Tx. It uses halls sensors instead of pots. No pots, no pot problems and never wear out. Not that expensive at around $25. for each assembly.
Tom
 
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For those of you experiencing the following –

Tipping while landing
Difficulty shutting down motors
Slow or sluggish yaw (rudder) response
Drifting

Go into the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor and check the deflection of J1, J2, J3, and J4 feedback from the left and right sticks. Initially you should be centered on all 4 with no stick input.

Full left/right, and up/down stick movement should show 0 to either -100 or 100 on J1, J2, J3, and J4 and immediately return to 0 when the sticks are centered.

My yaw was slow to non-existent in turtle mode. In the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor, J2 for mode 2 yaw, my left stick, was showing slightly off center and would only go from -30 to 50. In addition centering wouldn’t return to center immediately, it slowly sort of returned to center depending on if the stick was moved positive or negative. Unless you’ve customized your ST16 settings, this isn’t a calibration issue it’s a dirty potentiometer in the stick gimbal.

I opened my ST16, carefully noted and unplugged the two wires going to my left gimbal and removed my gimbal by removing the 4 screws on the front of the ST16. I then used plastic safe electronic component cleaner on the pots in the gimbal. Once clean and dry I carefully replaced the gimbal, its two connectors, sealed up the ST16 and went into System Settings -> Hardware Monitor. J2 wasn’t centered but I was now getting full deflection and instant return to center. I then went into the secret menu and re-calibrated all of my controls. Now J2 was acting like J1, J3, and J4 and was immediately returning to center. Problem solved. I tested, the H and my rudder yaw was back for both turtle to rabbit mode.

This got me thinking, what if this had happened to the throttle, roll, or pitch input? Well, you might have tipping while landing, difficulty shutting down motors, slow, or sluggish to no rudder response, and drifting.

If you're having any of the above symptoms, I would look at the ST16 System Settings -> Hardware Monitor first and make sure full left/right, and up/down stick movement show 0 to either -100 or 100 on J1, J2, J3, and J4 and immediately return to 0 when the sticks are centered.

BTW – These must be cheap pots being used. Until after many years of use, I’ve never had a radio stick give me issues.
talk about 16, had a camera problem still after ny, and Ontario they sent new camera went to bind no cando 16 right toggle bad. tried to bind with teck finally had to send every thing back them to get fixed. have had h since jan. only 5 hrs of flight time. because of a number of problems, and does not count ups loosing it for three weeks if this fix does not work may have to ask for a new drone. Ontario did not fix camera sent to Ontario they said bad antenna, sent to new York bad lense no help. the problem was had problem with pan stop and go, and pixelling, so do not understand their fixs????
 
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I'm getting inconsistent stick measurements using this method to check. J1 is pegged 100 percent up J2 is centered but any movements cause it to land a different spot each time it's released, J3 is pegged 100% down as is J4 without touching the stick. Wondering if this is big part of my current issues.......
 

Steve Carr

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I'm getting inconsistent stick measurements using this method to check. J1 is pegged 100 percent up J2 is centered but any movements cause it to land a different spot each time it's released, J3 is pegged 100% down as is J4 without touching the stick. Wondering if this is big part of my current issues.......
Have you checked the stick in Hardware Monitor. Go to System Settings, the Hardware Monitor.
 

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