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LED light strip mod... Night flying like a boss

The breeze brand new with 1 battery and controller is only $150 now from Walmart and my guess is that's til they run out. I dont see anything out there that's a better bargain yet.
Are you just using the rubber bands to keep them on? Seems like it might be enough but not sure. Dont buy the ones with the elastic stretchy fabric type as they are not tight enough for the legs.

Yeah, the ones in that pic are the ones that I havent actually flown outside yet. Just got 1 of 2 air hogs star trek enterprises yesterday from amazon and the second one is coming today. Really great lights on it and easy to fly as it's very docile. Can take a lot of abuse and keep flying.


OK, I've got the same problem I had when I tried adding a photo before. "Not valid forum id". That's what I remember originally happening and why I said I couldnt post a photo.
Why is it not working this time?
 
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Hmmm, I guess you cant add pics in edit?selecting advanced edit doesnt appear to do anything.
20181202_133942.jpeg20181202_133937.jpeg
This is when it is charging. That single light doesnt just blink on/off it pulses really cool until fully charged and then the light stays on solid.
 
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Hang on a moment....
 

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Ok, I have to ask. What are the black objects you are using the keep the props in place while in the case?
 
Ok, I have to ask. What are the black objects you are using the keep the props in place while in the case?
I was just about to post that;)
The black objects are just large shrink tubing shrunk a bit on one end to slide over the props to make it easier to close the lids:)
 
I was just about to post that;)
The black objects are just large shrink tubing shrunk a bit on one end to slide over the props to make it easier to close the lids:)

Great idea! More detailed pix please:p
 
Just a pair of scissors spread out to where I want to shrink to and a lighter:

20181203_090757.jpeg

Get rolls of it from harbor freight cheap
 
Uh, how do I get rid of a pic that shows my faa#?

If it is posted, you should be able to go to edit, then delete that photo. If you have trouble doing it , I should be able to do it for you.
 
This is what you really want to see:
2 of the controllers are missing their display clamps but they were really cheap.
 

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If it is posted, you should be able to go to edit, then delete that photo. If you have trouble doing it , I should be able to do it for you.
Other pics are showing it anyways. I'm not too worried about some idiot using my number.
 
U unfortunately these were not autocorrect blunders... I'm a goofy redneck Army vet with a the 9th grade education I'm lucky I can work this fancy smartphone thingy at all. Firing an M4 was easy this Techno World is quite a challenge hahaha
Thanks you for your service!
 
That’s why guys like me joined the Air Force and trained kids to maintain F-15E’s that could wipe out a line of tanks in a single pass, after coming in low enough to make the enemy troops crap their pants when the jet blast would blow their helmets off. :cool:

Welcome to the forum from one vet to another. There are a bunch of us on the forum.
And thank you for your service also.
 
Heres a few pics of lights I added hardwired to the 12V solder points under the bottom cover:20190115_071408.jpeg20190115_071412.jpeg20190115_071435.jpeg20190115_071444.jpeg20190115_144619.jpeg20190115_144546.jpeg20190115_144553.jpeg
 

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More. The second one is showing 4 white LEDs with 2 mounted under the camera and 2 on the bottom cover and 4 more green on the back of the bottom cover. It seemed kind of strange to use green on the back end so I then covered them with pieces of red shrink tubing to mute the brightness.
I went to a local auto parts store and looked at what they had for 12V LEDs and found a pack of blue and white ones that you can individually remove the clear casings from and am thinking about what I might do next. Need to see if the ones I got can also be bought in red as that seems the more correct color to me for the back of a drone.
Some of the LEDs I used were from fingerlights that run off 3 1.5V watch batteries but I found that the red ones cant actually handle a voltage of more than about 2.8V before they start dimming unless you limit the current. It's the only reason why they work using the 3 button cells. The blue and greens can handle over 4V no problem so wiring 4 of them in series works well just with the LED alone with no circuit board which of course makes them a smaller mount so they can fit in tighter spots.20190116_062227.jpeg20190116_062422.jpeg20190116_062439.jpeg20190116_103601.jpeg20190116_103609.jpeg20190116_163129.jpeg20190116_164141.jpeg20190116_205942.jpeg20190116_205942.jpeg20190116_210007.jpeg
 
Love the blue and green lights in the arms Pman. Where did you connect the wires to for power?
 
The blue and green LEDs came out of finger lights and they are wired in series directly to the 12V solder points under the bottom cover. I'll see if I have a pic.
That pic is before I cleaned it up.
I noticed that you have to clean up those solder points to shiny again or you wont be able to solder to them. You can just scratch them up with a razor or something sharp.
I didnt do any lighting for the longest time as i was trying to come up with a slick way of doing it. Finally just started messing around this past week and did those in a few days.
The first round one is a 12V one but I cant remember what it was from. It is very bright. It is mounted partially on the clip that holds in the camera ribbon cable and a bit on the heatsink but cooling wont be an issue as there is way more air getting in from the screen I glued onto the bottom cover. Theres lots of space between the light and the screen.
The electronics on the bottom of the LED is treated with conformal coating and then just hot glued in a few spots.
Before I forget, the one you are talking about with the green and blue on the arms stick out just a bit too far as they do keep the legs from folding down all the way which doesnt quite allow the plastic case to close.
I fixed that issue by just grinding down the curved part of the 4 points where the breeze rests probably a 1/16".
All I did was drill holes just big enough to fit the fronts of the LEDs through after bending its pins down and soldering a couple wires to them. Glued them in with that plastic glue that is activated with UV light from both the inside and slightly around the outside.
I just cant understand why Yuneec didnt add any lights to the Breeze. No one seems to mention this in reviews but I think it's odd as you can buy $10 micro drone that has orientation lights.20190116_062239.jpeg
I didnt bother with a micro switch for any of them as the current draw on all of them is really a moot point. I can basically say I dont notice any affect to flight time.
The one that has 4 in the back and 4 in the front is just 2 sets of 4 LEDs in series and then those both wired in parallel. I cant decide if I'm going to leave the green in the back with the red shrink tube over them or take them off and just let them be really bright green. You can see the green shines up the inside back end kind of nice even with the ends covered.
I've got zero concerns with any loss of strength in any part. The LEDs fit tight and are glued in well. Ive repaired 9 units and it's just not an issue.
I'll find the 12V lights that I bought as it's easier just to use them since each light has it's own smallish board. Those are the ones that look square.
 
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