Lets talk camera settings!

[Jimmylee]

So far I have not dived into all the different camera settings on the H.
I am an auto guy and usually just let the camera do the work.
But the auto just isn't doing it as other are getting some great video going manual.

Right now I have my resolution set at 3840 x 2160 @ 30, anything higher and it gets jerky.

I set my evo -0.5 to -1.0 and that helps somewhat, have not messed with other settings.

Do any of the settings get saved because mine do not?

 

[Steve Carr]

Anytime your video is jerky it's because your computer isn't up to the task. A very good video card is required to play high resolution video. Mine suffers from that as well. I use this video player and it works really well for me. Downloads · MPC-HC
My personal preference is to shot in 4K at 24fps, white balance locked, 1/60 sec and an ISO of around 200-800 depending on light. I also generally use Natural. Others will have their favorite settings.

 

[Jimmylee]

Anytime your video is jerky it's because your computer isn't up to the task. A very good video card is required to play high resolution video. Mine suffers from that as well. I use this video player and it works really well for me. Downloads · MPC-HC
My personal preference is to shot in 4K at 24fps, white balance locked, 1/60 sec and an ISO of around 200-800 depending on light. I also generally use Natural. Others will have their favorite settings.

I have a I7 intel with a NVidia card that is about a year old, I would have thought that would be fast enough but guess not.

I will start trying some of the settings you suggest.
Do you keep it at 1/60 sec and then adjust the ISO depending on light?

Do your settings stick or do you have to reset every time you shut the ST16 off?

 

[Cristian]

I have a I7 intel with a NVidia card that is about a year old, I would have thought that would be fast enough but guess not.

I will start trying some of the settings you suggest.
Do you keep it at 1/60 sec and then adjust the ISO depending on light?

Do your settings stick or do you have to reset every time you shut the ST16 off?

Settings definitely don't stick after reboot, in fact, I've found they sometimes don't even stick between swapping H batteries even if the ST16 remains on during the process. May be worth switching to auto and back to manual every time and even then I'm having trouble so I hope a fix is coming. Definitely don't adjust after starting to record as there's been plenty of people reporting that the camera doesn't register the changes.

Your processor is probably more than adequate for viewing 4k, chances are it's stuttering due to an outdated codec (keep your media player updated) or you're recording on an SD card that simply can't keep up (class 10 are best).

When my settings DO stick they produce some AMAZING results. the way I typically set white balance is start off on Auto in flight, pan the camera down to where the sky takes up no more than 1/4 of the frame so the ground is properly exposed and then switch over to manual without adjusting anything further. Try to always fly with the sun to your back otherwise you'll need to manually compensate.

 

[Jimmylee]

Settings definitely don't stick after reboot, in fact, I've found they sometimes don't even stick between swapping H batteries even if the ST16 remains on during the process. May be worth switching to auto and back to manual every time and even then I'm having trouble so I hope a fix is coming. Definitely don't adjust after starting to record as there's been plenty of people reporting that the camera doesn't register the changes.

Your processor is probably more than adequate for viewing 4k, chances are it's stuttering due to an outdated codec (keep your media player updated) or you're recording on an SD card that simply can't keep up (class 10 are best).

When my settings DO stick they produce some AMAZING results. the way I typically set white balance is start off on Auto in flight, pan the camera down to where the sky takes up no more than 1/4 of the frame so the ground is properly exposed and then switch over to manual without adjusting anything further. Try to always fly with the sun to your back otherwise you'll need to manually compensate.

OK so I thought it was me, whenever I try to manually change the shutter sometimes the screen goes white like the camera went haywire.
If I change the resolution the settings again go crazy.

It's hard to refrain from ranting on Yuneec, they have so many issues to fix.

When you say you switch from auto to manual but don't change any settings wouldn't you still have the same settings as auto?

I have always been a point and shoot kinda guy. LOL

 

[Cristian]

When you say you switch from auto to manual but don't change any settings wouldn't you still have the same settings as auto?

That is correct, I hate the harsh transitions, when on Auto, between a blown out sky and a dark ground or vice versa so I find the sweet ahead of time in Auto by panning the camera until it exposes both to my liking then switch over to Manual so that even if I pan the camera all the way down then all the way up there won't be a harsh (dare I say amateur) transition.

BUT this solution won't work when going from facing the sun to facing away from the sun as the settings will only perform well in the same conditions you sampled from. It's important to plan your shots ahead of time if you want to get decent footage. Doesn't always work out that way and some correction can be made in post production but it's way easier to do the filming you need facing one direction, hit the stop button and face the other direction then adjust the settings to best fit that before starting up again.

 

[Jimmylee]

That is correct, I hate the harsh transitions, when on Auto, between a blown out sky and a dark ground or vice versa so I find the sweet ahead of time in Auto by panning the camera until it exposes both to my liking then switch over to Manual so that even if I pan the camera all the way down then all the way up there won't be a harsh (dare I say amateur) transition.

BUT this solution won't work when going from facing the sun to facing away from the sun as the settings will only perform well in the same conditions you sampled from. It's important to plan your shots ahead of time if you want to get decent footage. Doesn't always work out that way and some correction can be made in post production but it's way easier to do the filming you need facing one direction, hit the stop button and face the other direction then adjust the settings to best fit that before starting up again.

OK I understand you now, and that would be easy to do.
So that technique would work great around high noonish time when the sun is above you.

Thanks

 

[Cristian]

OK I understand you now, and that would be easy to do.
So that technique would work great around high noonish time when the sun is above you.

Thanks

I'm honestly not sure, I live in Texas and refuse to fly in the dead heat of the day lol, I mainly go out between 6:30-8:15 for the best lighting and less sweat

 

[Rayray]

A Cristian in Texas.
Yep, the heat index here in Etex is 105-108F daily now. Yikes.

 

[Burntpixel]

Best all around results for bright days is setting your camera to manual then RAW or Natural if you are going to grade in post. Or set your camera to 1080p 60FPS @1/120th of a second shutter speed with white balance set to the daylight lighting condition you are in. To stay @ that 1/120th of a second shutter speed in brightly lit outdoor situations, I recommend using an ND filter of a value around ND8 or above. The 60FPS gives you the ability to have a bit of a slo mo effect when editing the footage @ 30FPS. the 1/120th of a second shutter speed gives a smooth fluid motion on pans and yaw. All the above is meant for video of course!

 

[Jimmylee]

Best all around results for bright days is setting your camera to manual then RAW or Natural if you are going to grade in post. Or set your camera to 1080p 60FPS @1/120th of a second shutter speed with white balance set to the daylight lighting condition you are in. To stay @ that 1/120th of a second shutter speed in brightly lit outdoor situations, I recommend using an ND filter of a value around ND8 or above. The 60FPS gives you the ability to have a bit of a slo mo effect when editing the footage @ 30FPS. the 1/120th of a second shutter speed gives a smooth fluid motion on pans and yaw. All the above is meant for video of course!

I will try those setting on my next flight. I did try the 1080p @ 60 on auto and georges but the picture looked really soft
and out of focus.
I am also going to get some filters as I hope that helps out.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Burntpixel]

I will try those setting on my next flight. I did try the 1080p @ 60 on auto and georges but the picture looked really soft
and out of focus.
I am also going to get some filters as I hope that helps out.

Thanks for your input.

BestBuys carries ND filters for the H