New CGO3+ Camera from Yuneec!
- Thread starter CAPTAINDRONE
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I would tend to agree, I would have thought that there was no such thing as Jpeg RAW, RAW is just a file of data and not an image meaning it can be adjusted. A Jpeg is an image by which it has already been converted from the RAW image by the camera software. So Yuneecs Jpeg RAW is probably a Jpeg image with no adjustment to colour, saturation, sharpening, contrast etc. So yes a poor choice of terminology
Jpeg raw is a raw (dng) digital negative that is compressed but not as much as a jpeg. DNG has no compression so if you are going to do any grading post shoot that is the one to use. To me a compressed dng isn't much better than a regular jpeg. But every time you compress you loose information and possibly introduce compression artifacts. If you are going to post process you don't want any compression so raw/dng is the way to go.
I've noticed those sharpening artifacts in georgous mode. And also the jaggies on power lines etc. I see those on all my cameras to some degree even my high end DSLR. Its a byproduct of digital sensors. You can use antialiasing routines to minimize it but it never goes away totally. The real raw image from even a high end DLSR is horrible before the processor gets ahold of it. And I mean horrible. Smaller pixels helps but even with the smallest pixels it will still be there to some degree. You can't get rid of it with hardware only software routines. Decent video editors have ways to deal with it. Sometimes its a byproduct of rolling shutter. The processor reads a line at a time out of the sensor. If the sensor moves before all the lines have been read you get jagged edges a torn looking edge on stuff. Decent editors can fix that as well as smooth pans which suffer from it as well. The stabilization filter in Vegas does all that. I just turn off the stabilization part since you don't need it with the H.
I was impressed it had raw and dng modes. Didn't figure a consumer drone would have those features. But you gotta realize its basically a cell phone camera with a fixed focus lens. Its never going to be perfect or even close to a decent DLSR. Now there is one video cam that you can put on a drone that is as capable or more capable than a DLSR and that is the Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera or the new E1 from Z Camera that is on kickstarter. The smallest interchangable lens 4K available. The Blackmagic has 13 stops of dynamic range. Its a 35mm with raw and prores codecs built in.
I've noticed those sharpening artifacts in georgous mode. And also the jaggies on power lines etc. I see those on all my cameras to some degree even my high end DSLR. Its a byproduct of digital sensors. You can use antialiasing routines to minimize it but it never goes away totally. The real raw image from even a high end DLSR is horrible before the processor gets ahold of it. And I mean horrible. Smaller pixels helps but even with the smallest pixels it will still be there to some degree. You can't get rid of it with hardware only software routines. Decent video editors have ways to deal with it. Sometimes its a byproduct of rolling shutter. The processor reads a line at a time out of the sensor. If the sensor moves before all the lines have been read you get jagged edges a torn looking edge on stuff. Decent editors can fix that as well as smooth pans which suffer from it as well. The stabilization filter in Vegas does all that. I just turn off the stabilization part since you don't need it with the H.
I was impressed it had raw and dng modes. Didn't figure a consumer drone would have those features. But you gotta realize its basically a cell phone camera with a fixed focus lens. Its never going to be perfect or even close to a decent DLSR. Now there is one video cam that you can put on a drone that is as capable or more capable than a DLSR and that is the Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera or the new E1 from Z Camera that is on kickstarter. The smallest interchangable lens 4K available. The Blackmagic has 13 stops of dynamic range. Its a 35mm with raw and prores codecs built in.
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Thanks for the answer, just I never heard of a raw Jpeg before. The camera settings are no different in the ST10+ for the CGO3 camera. I did a few tests this morning just to see the difference in file size and there was quite a bit. Learn something everyday
I prefer straight raw/DNG files and adjust in post myself.
I was looking at the street sign, and the house number across the street.
To my untrained eye they are NOT very crisp. In one of the photos I can clearly read the sign. Im most of the photos the house number is hard to make out.
I would think that even for the small size of the sensor, those 2 items should look sharper.
I do NOT know if this is due to bit rate, focus, or I am just expecting too much. My cell phone is only 5MP and it takes better pictures.
To my untrained eye they are NOT very crisp. In one of the photos I can clearly read the sign. Im most of the photos the house number is hard to make out.
I would think that even for the small size of the sensor, those 2 items should look sharper.
I do NOT know if this is due to bit rate, focus, or I am just expecting too much. My cell phone is only 5MP and it takes better pictures.
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The camera is not much different then a security camera, not high on the list of good cameras. I have watched many videos of the CGO3+ and they are not any better than the standard CGO3 and in some cases worst.because of the soft left side.
Unfortunately because of the design of the lens it probably will not permit the camera to place such small items in crisp super sharp focus. If I tweaked the lens I may be able to get it a touch sharper than it currently is but not by much. Honestly I would need a new lens to get a more crisp photo.
HERE IS A TEST ANYONE CAN TRY TO TEST THEIR CAMERA IMAGE QUALITY
Just snap a photo of something that has objects near/far. Because you want to see the best crispness in the photo, use image setting of Gorgeous (this adds sharpening to the image).
Next, look at the photo on your computer in whatever photo viewing software you use. You should be able to ZOOM in on the image. ZOOM in to 100% ZOOM and look at an object(s) in the distance. If they are in focus, then your camera is set as it should be. If they are blurry, then your focus is not correctly set. Your Focus should look the same in the center, top, bottom, left and right of image. If distant trees look like one big mass of green with no definition then your focus is not correct.
Here is an example. This is the same boring image from above. There are a total of 7 photos at different zoom rates. Notice that at 100% zoom everything in the distance looks OK (not spectacular, but OK). Then at 200% zoom and beyond we begin to see the limitations of the camera lens and enhancement software built into the camera (i.e., the image setting of Gorgeous).
The photos are:
- 0% Zoom (full image) - Image looks great on an overcast day
- 50% Zoom - Image looks great
- 100% Zoom - The image sharpening from the "Gorgeous" setting is noticable around the edges of trees and distant objects. Objects are in focus. Distant trees and objects look as they should.
- 200% Zoom - Image sharpening is very apparent, objects are starting to become blotchy (definition in distant objects is being lost)
- 300% Zoom - Starting to get that "watercolor" painting effect due to definition in the picture just not being there
- 400% Zoom - Objects with straight lines are starting to get the jagged edges.
- 600% Zoom - This is like zooming into a postage stamp at this zoom factor. Blotchy and jagged edges everywhere but one can still make out what they are seeing in the image.
Clouds and rain today, but what the heck, I took the Typhoon out for a photo comparison. I wanted to see if the Typhoon H could take a DNG image that would be similar in quality to one I took a few weeks early with my Phantom 3 Professional (which has a great camera!). There is the possibility that both cameras have the same sensor, just different lenses. Once you bypass the Typhoon H camera enhancements, you can get a nice photo (DNG allows you to do this).
Well, I must say that in DNG mode the Typhoon H does surprising well on a cloudy overcast day!
Below are 4 pictures. They are:
- 1st Picture - Taken with a Phantom 3 on a sunny day. I had the image ratio selected as 16 x 9 on the Phantom.
- 2nd Picture - Taken with the Typhoon H on a cloudy overcast day. The Typhoon H only allows 4 x 3 aspect ratio in DNG format.
- 3rd Picture - a 100% crop of the upper portion of the Phantom 3 photo, notice the detail.
- 4th Picture - a 100% crop of the upper portion of the Typhoon 4 photo, notice the detail.
Well, I must say that in DNG mode the Typhoon H does surprising well on a cloudy overcast day!
Below are 4 pictures. They are:
- 1st Picture - Taken with a Phantom 3 on a sunny day. I had the image ratio selected as 16 x 9 on the Phantom.
- 2nd Picture - Taken with the Typhoon H on a cloudy overcast day. The Typhoon H only allows 4 x 3 aspect ratio in DNG format.
- 3rd Picture - a 100% crop of the upper portion of the Phantom 3 photo, notice the detail.
- 4th Picture - a 100% crop of the upper portion of the Typhoon 4 photo, notice the detail.
I'd be pretty satisfied with those cloudy images, @CAPTAINDRONE It's interesting that the Typhoon manages to pick out the details in the powerlines running in the background, where the Phantom completely looses them, particularly in the right of the frame.
Gorgeous setting is not something I'd want to use if I was planning to 'pixel peep'. Image enhancement like that is best done on a desktop where you can choose the best settings.
Gorgeous setting is not something I'd want to use if I was planning to 'pixel peep'. Image enhancement like that is best done on a desktop where you can choose the best settings.
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Most people don't have a monitor to actually edit their photos properly. For the average Joe that went out and bought a computer package you just got a average monitor.
Shoot in RAW and edit in photoshop or lightroom and when you get it to where you like its good enough. A photographer is the person who decides if his picture is any good, everyone else is just a critic with their own opinion.
Shoot in RAW and edit in photoshop or lightroom and when you get it to where you like its good enough. A photographer is the person who decides if his picture is any good, everyone else is just a critic with their own opinion.
Both photos are just straight DNG photos out of the cameras (I've just resized them). So, no Natural or Gorgeous settings were used.
Hey @CAPTAINDRONE. Don't know what that building is in the photo, but I love love LOVE the roof/solar panels!
Tonight I tried the fixed image mode of GORGEOUS vs DNG. The image setting of gorgeous is good if you want to take a quick photo which you have no desire to post process. Most times the white balance will be a bit off. It is also a JPG photo format. If you set the file format to DNG, then the Image settings of Natural, Gorgeous, etc are ignored by the camera and you end up with a "blah" picture, that you have to stick in some software to do post processing. Below I took two photos of a beach near my place. The first image was set on Gorgeous JPG and the second was set on DNG file format. I had to post process the DNG File to get it to look good. The DNG file looks just a touch better (more accurate white balance) than the Gorgeous image.
Simple.
JPG - File has post processing done to it (sharpening, white balance, color enhancement) & then it is compressed into a small file.
DNG - File has nothing done to it and is normally not compressed or is compressed very little. It is expected that you would place a DNG file in a Photo program and do the white balance and color/sharpness as necessary.
In summary, you won't see Grandma post processing pictures of her grandchildren. She'd rather just have the smaller JPG file and be happy with the results.
The DNG may have better white balance but IMO the JPG looks sharper.
Look at the buildings in the back ground.
Overall looks like you got a good camera.
