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Hello fellow Typhoon pilots!

I scored one **** of a deal on a used typhoon H, with some minor issues, that I'd like your help with. Let's start with the base plate of the camera. It is 50% secured, and I don't care for that whatsoever. In the first 2 shots I've uploaded, you can see the missing fixture, which appears to be nothing more than a plastic rivet, for lack of better terms. Where can I find the replacement parts for this? It's a Cgo 3+ but I haven't seen these specific parts yet.

Then, there is these 2 thin wires that are not too much of a problem, as I can tuck them away, up under the mounting plate, that holds the CGO3+.

But what are they? Are they in need of proper reinstallment? Should I be concerned about the performance? I've flown now 4 flights. All of them successfully. I do feel like the obstacle avoidance system isnt working, as I've tried the hand test, I have seen in the internet, where I place my hand in the vicinity of the sensors, with obstacle avoidance turned on... No response.

So I think that's enough for now. I'll be happy to see if you guys can help me out with some tips on how I could improve my drones' safety and lifespan.

Thanks guys,

Keith20180802_133155.jpeg20180802_133207.jpeg20180802_133520.jpeg20180802_133616.jpeg
 
The thin wires are the antennas for the H , they are fine where they are and supposed to be like that

The camera mount is normal too , do a search and you will see where people replaced them with tie wraps. The mount must be allowed to move on the four bellows to remove vibrations.
 
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The thin wires are the antennas for the H , they are fine where they are and supposed to be like that

The camera mount is normal too , do a search and you will see where people replaced them with tie wraps. The mount must be allowed to move on the four bellows to remove vibrations.
Thanks. I re-read the manual, to see if I overlooked the explanation of those antennas, bit it doesn't seem to be mentioned. And I've never seen them in the photos of the Typhoon H. So that was a real mystery. I will do that search now about the vibration mounts. Again, truly appreciate the help. [emoji4]
 
Yep, you actually only need 2 of the little plastic inserts, and arguably not even those :) I know Yuneec UK have them because mine was missing one, and they sent me 2 ! but as mentioned, mini cable ties (you need 2 for each hole ideally - one complete tie, and just the end of another one) are also totally fine, but keep them loose, and don't do all 4 corners which is overkill and risks transferring vibrations from the craft into the camera more than it needs to...
 
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If your OBS is working, it will give you the “unavailable” warning when switched on before lift off. There is no reason for it not working unless it’s disconnected. It is sonar so it needs the object squarely in front to bounce signals back.
 
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If your OBS is working, it will give you the “unavailable” warning when switched on before lift off. There is no reason for it not working unless it’s disconnected. It is sonar so it needs the object squarely in front to bounce signals back.
Ahhhhhh! [emoji2] that's a great tip to look out for. So before take-off, I'll switch it on, to see if it gives me the unavailable warning. If I don't get it, then I am somehow not OBSing right. [emoji28] Thanks so much for all the help. You guys help the noobs more than you'll ever know. [emoji120][emoji95][emoji106]
 
There’s no compelling need to change out the two gimbal security pins for something else, or to add more. Those installed in my pair of H’s have functioned perfectly for two years.
I certainly understand that train of thought. It's simply not something you'd expect to see. 2 pins in, 2 pins out. And as a new member of the Yuneec family, still in the process of orientating myself, I was relatively sure that it was the result of a 2nd hand purchase. Turns out that factory default. Who would've knew?! [emoji2] I'll let it serve its purpose and not modify it, seeing as it is designed that way. Thanks!!
 
The logic of the pins is to keep the camera from breaking away upon a hard gear down landing. The mounting rails on the top gimbal assembly are flimsy by design to break off and have the camera disconnect cleanly. If it separates at the grommets, it will tear the very tiny and already strained camera and gimbal control wires. The two plastic pins on either corner are important though many here have replaced with loosely installed zip ties. As noted previously, you don’t want the top plate and bottom plate rigidly connected or else you will transfer vibrations to the video that creates that “jello” effect.
Another tip in my opinion is to not store the 480 with the camera mounted. It’s good to install the camera when your ready to film post any setups, calibrations, or test flights. The benefits of keeping the camera off between missions are less wear on the grommets from constant gravity pulling down and you inspect all the grommets and connections during install. Compass calibration is much easier without the camera also flopping around on its motors all confused and straining horribly to find level. Plus, because I always take camera off, it’s easy to pull out of the case while charging everything and pop out the SD card and load the days shots. You also won’t destroy the camera if you are testing flight behavior only and heaven forbid crash.

The trick is to double check everything is back in the case so you don’t get out in the field minus props, ST, camera, or SD card as you will do occasionally when distracted by life and interruptions.
 
Actually, those safety pins are more of an “old school” methodology left over from the days of DIY aircraft where gimbals fell off the aircraft in flight from time to time. Their purpose was to assure the aircraft landed with the same number of parts it had when it took off. Cameras and gimbals that are suspended from vibration dampening balls are not as secure as those mounted above them.

Back “in the day” there was no “standardization” of payloads. We used whatever we could make work so camera sizes and weights were all over the map, and gimbals were at times under designed for the camera that would be used on them. The advent of “consumer drones” changed that by designing systems where gimbals and cameras were matched for weight and security, with the cameras much lighter than they had been previously.

There’s really no way to design a camera/gimbal assembly that work break away in a very hard landing or crash without making it to heavy to fly. In the event of a landing, or arrival to use a better term, that generates enough force to exceed design limits something has to “give”. That may be the landing gear, motor booms, gimbal mount, or the entire bottom of the aircraft if the mass of the camera and gimbal is rigidly attached to the aircraft. Ideally, an aircraft will be designed in a manner where various components can be sacrificed during impact individually without destroying the rest of the aircraft in the process. That makes repairs cheaper and easier. The gimbal on the H is one of those. Although it’s expensive to replace, as all good cameras are, it’s cheaper and easier to repair instead of having to replace the entire bottom of the aircraft. The safety pins have served their function well as there have been no cases I’ve read where the gimbal and camera fell off in flight due to separating from the damper balls. That gimbals have separated from the aircraft during a crash or unstabilized arrival is to be expected. We can’t run into things with expectations of not sustaining some amount of damage. If we could crash and not break anything there would be some pretty good examples in design theory that could be transferred to the automobile and full scale aviation design groups.
 
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If your OBS is working, it will give you the “unavailable” warning when switched on before lift off. There is no reason for it not working unless it’s disconnected. It is sonar so it needs the object squarely in front to bounce signals back.
So I am at home, out back going through the process of testing the OBS. I did what you suggested and that's exactly what I get, "obs not available" when I flip the switch over to obs on. So now the troubleshooting begins for this quirk. I was planning on upgrading to the RS module, but now I'm not sure if that's possible pending a problem with the sonar. Actually, I am still orientating myself with the aircraft. I've had it for 48 hours now, everything is still of course... Very new and unfamiliar. Tips on the obstacle avoidance system?
 
How high is the H during this testing? It needs to be a minimum of 6’ or so above the ground.
 
So I am at home, out back going through the process of testing the OBS. I did what you suggested and that's exactly what I get, "obs not available" when I flip the switch over to obs on. So now the troubleshooting begins for this quirk. I was planning on upgrading to the RS module, but now I'm not sure if that's possible pending a problem with the sonar. Actually, I am still orientating myself with the aircraft. I've had it for 48 hours now, everything is still of course... Very new and unfamiliar. Tips on the obstacle avoidance system?

That’s the question... is it available during flight? That’s not clear still.
 
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That’s the question... is it available during flight? That’s not clear still.
That's an interesting question. It is also what led me to believe that I wasn't necessarily having problems with the H, but instead a general lack of understanding as to how to properly control the aircraft and its corresponding systems. As you mentioned, I wasn't more than a few feet off the ground, at first... I wasn't off the ground at all. But after ascending a few more yards, and then I got a solid result with the obs system.

Thank you for the quick reply and all of the tips on how to become more familiar with the H.

I think I am spoiled from my DJI simplicity of its devices and interactions. But don't misunderstand me I'm not fan boying here, it's actually quite the contrary, I LOVE the H. But it makes me far more nervous when it is in the air. There is just so much to take in, and the learning curve is of course a major factor. It's practice, practice, practice.

Thanks guys. [emoji106] [emoji41] [emoji2]
 
I LOVE the H. But it makes me far more nervous when it is in the air.
I know what you mean :) When you start with the H, and don't yet know all it's little foibles, noises and behaviours, it's surprisingly easy to actually feel sick with worry as you fly, to the point where quite a lot of the joy of flying is lost to that worry :) I think I was shaking on the controls for the first 10 flights. At only 42 flights on it now, most of that has disappeared, now it is almost impossible to tell the difference between twangs of excitement at going out flying, and twangs of stress while I'm in the air, but a lot more 'joy of flying' is getting through in the end :) What has stopped now is the shaking (getting the strap helped a whole load with that), and now I am starting to trust the craft a lot more, and feel happier to let it go out further and do more adventurous things, little by little, step by step...slowly, slowy, no crashy H :)
 
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I know what you mean :) When you start with the H, and don't yet know all it's little foibles, noises and behaviours, it's surprisingly easy to actually feel sick with worry as you fly, to the point where quite a lot of the joy of flying is lost to that worry :) I think I was shaking on the controls for the first 10 flights. At only 42 flights on it now, most of that has disappeared, now it is almost impossible to tell the difference between twangs of excitement at going out flying, and twangs of stress while I'm in the air, but a lot more 'joy of flying' is getting through in the end :) What has stopped now is the shaking, and now I am starting to trust the craft a lot more, and feel happier to let it go out further and do more adventurous things, little by little, step by step...slowly, slowy, no crashy H :)
Same here , getting better and getting used to the aircraft and flying a little more smoothly . Slowly getting further and further out but for now learning everything about the aircraft .

Had a phantom p3 , was simple to fly but a bit boring
 
Same here , getting better and getting used to the aircraft and flying a little more smoothly . Slowly getting further and further out but for now learning everything about the aircraft .
Had a phantom p3 , was simple to fly but a bit boring

Yeah, the form factor of a hex is a different feel to flying a quad. But it's so nice having one of the only UAVs that has a continuous 360 gimbal - those travelling pan shots are soooo cool :) I have been massively over-using that in all my vids so far, but it's such a unique (pun intended) filming technique I don't see enough of it, so I consider it my job to do more like that :)
 
Those that started out flying multirotors manually take to the H quickly. Those that started with DJI products have to take a step back and learn how to fly before achieving comfort with the H. Nothing negative in that, it’s just the way it is. They are completely different in their operation.
 
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Yeah, the form factor of a hex is a different feel to flying a quad. But it's so nice having one of the only UAVs that has a continuous 360 gimbal - those travelling pan shots are soooo cool :) I have been massively over-using that in all my vids so far, but it's such a unique (pun intended) filming technique I don't see enough of it, so I consider it my job to do more like that :)

You can squeeze a higher up angle out of the camera also with some practice for nice sky shots.
 
You can squeeze a higher up angle out of the camera also with some practice for nice sky shots.
Indeed - I was 6 flights in before I even realised you could do that, but the hive mind here soon put me straight, and I have since been using it to great effect to catch the sunsets. Does put our props in shot of course, but I quite like that, so no objections from me there...
 
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