Peau 3.97mm f/2.8 lens problem

Jeroen · Oct 14, 2016

It wasn't a sharpness issue I guess. I only had the issues when I was taking a photo towards the sun.

I just receive the Pixaero 3.77mm. I will try it this weekend.

banned user · Oct 14, 2016

Matt Steele said:
They are well aware that there are consistency issues with the sharpness and focus on the edges of their lenses and supposedly trying to find a better way to have them made.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

I doubt they are involved the optic designing or even manufacturing to have any input, I'd say they are just relabelling from one of the 15,000 plus Chinese suppliers of these lenses, M12 Lens, M12 Lens Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com

John Dube · Oct 14, 2016

alsey7 said:
here are a few sample of mine

View attachment 3086

View attachment 3087

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Like the sharpness and clarity. Thanks!
Blew it up and saw the guy I was looking for sitting in front of his trailer. lol

John Dube · Oct 14, 2016

Thank you for your info here on the Peau lens. There is another lens which is showing excellent reviews, and Carolina Dronz said they are hoping it will be in this month. It is the Pix Areo 3.77mm, f2.8, 16MP lens. They said it should be around the same price as the Peau lens.

Jeroen · Oct 23, 2016

I have installed the Pixaero 3.77mm lens on my CGO3+.
I am quite happy with the result (the last picture shows some fog). I do not have of issues in the corners as with the Peau lens.

Do the pictures look focussed well? Or does the lens need some adjustment?

JCFlippen · Oct 23, 2016

For a clear conscience on focussing use an object with sharp edges 20 feet away to get hyperfocal distance correct.

Jussaguy · Jan 22, 2017

Jeroen said:
Last week I installed the Peau 3.97mm f/2.8 lens on my CGO3+. During normal daylight conditions the photo's are very sharp (better than the standard lens). But when taking a photo facing the sunset, the corners of the photo turn light. I took this photo with a Polar Pro ND4 filter (ISO 100, exposure 1/160, auto white balance).

Anyone experiencing similar issues?

View attachment 3045

NEVER NEVER NEVER use AWB. I don't even understand how it's an option on any camera ever.

If there is any variable on a camera that should be locked to something it's white balance.

All white balance is is a lock on something that can be changed if it's wrong. But if it's on auto and it's wrong, unless you are willing to sit for weeks with the footage and keyframe the color correction, you are screwed.

It's easy to fix a bad white balance. White balance to black balance is simply a barometer with which to take your camera and tell it where the deepest whites are and the deepest blacks and it figures out all the other colors based on that. Ideally what you would do is use a perfect white board and balance to it. But if there is anything that can be fixed in post, it's white balance but if you are on AWB, you lose that ability. If you're after point and shoot type of stuff, than by all means, choose the auto shutter speeds, ISOs, and if you are using a DSLR or better camera, your f-stop but AWB is something that is on every UAS and it's the one thing that it should NEVER be on, because the colors often change when you turn around all of a sudden the lighting has changed because he sun is at your back than your head. It might seem like the right thing to do, but you are talking about the difference between correcting after that turn or as a could comes by, a tree is over you, or whatever. This is the one thing, ok a lot of things, but this is a big thing that makes me nuts with these cameras (Phantoms, Typhoons, Q500s, Mavic, whatever). There is never a time where it is okay to use AWB. If you get the balance wrong, it's as simple as finding the whitest white in your image or blackest black and selecting it to correct it. Can't if it's in auto because it's constantly changing.

I know this is old and not even on topic but I just wanted to let you know since I read it. Ask any photographer that is a good one and they will tell you the same. If they tell you otherwise, they are wrong. This is as non subjective of an opinion as you can get. Of course it's just an opinion, but so it wearing your seatbelt for safety in the front of a car. I am sure you can come up with a reason not to, but in general, it's a good idea.

Be well.

Adam

SoCalDroner · Jan 22, 2017

Jussaguy said:
NEVER NEVER NEVER use AWB. I don't even understand how it's an option on any camera ever.

It's on the "H" / CGO3+ because there is no way to add a specific color temperature. So you start with AWB and place your white balance card in front of the camera, let it adjust and then lock the white balance. It's actually a very easy way to set the proper white balance. Personally, I'm glad it's there and don't have to take out a meter and enter in a specific color temp.

Jussaguy · Jan 22, 2017

SoCalDroner said:
It's on the "H" / CGO3+ because there is no way to add a specific color temperature. So you start with AWB and place your white balance card in front of the camera, let it adjust and then lock the white balance. It's actually a very easy way to set the proper white balance. Personally, I'm glad it's there and don't have to take out a meter and enter in a specific color temp.

EDIT: I am leaving this whole post but I see what your point is, albeit strange terminology on the part of Yuneec, but you are staying in a locked auto setting which is a very long way of saying "white balancing".

I am erasing my post since, I have discovered while writing it that I was confused because Yuneec uses odd terminology for white balancing. AWB is a term that generally means auto changing without locking on. Locking on is white balancing. Don't know what I'm missing but I'm going to start using my H more going forward.

EDIT: I see what you're saying. You can AWB and then lock on to that color. That IS indeed white balancing and not the same as AWB on a P4 which is a very strange way of terming the process of white balancing. Well anyway, never just leave it on AWB then for anyone reading this. As long as you end up on some sort of locked balance, it doesn't honestly matter what color it is as you can white balance very easily in post but now I see (after researching it in the manual while writing this post) that your method is a perfectly fine one as long as you are locked.

Here is a vid I made a while ago covering the basics of resolutions and formats as it pertains to the Phantom 4 but its the same theories and formats that we use on the TH. AWB on the P4 is constantly changing and there is no way to "lock" in on it like you can here. I did notice that there is an AWB with every setting which makes some more sense now. Thanks for the info. I don't like when terminology changes from one thing to the next but this is definitely an area where it makes more sense then the goofy AWB on the P4 which doesn't give you a method of locking on to it. I usually just choose something close to what situation I am in and then further change the color temp in post.

Be well.

Adam

EDIT: In a nutshell, if you want to white balance on a Typhoon H, you should go to lock, use AWB with the camera on a white board, OR, just choose a setting that will be locked, it REALLY doesn't matter which one at all because whatever you use it will be way different once you are 300 feet in the sky vs your board which is why people think you should use AWB on birds. If you ever use that first AWB that isn't locked, punch yourself in the face and start over. He says on the above (first video) that most people use AWB like it it's the right thing and so many think it is and if you asked any photographer, you should never have a changing color balance unless you don't care about your footage. It is good that there is a lock AWB or white balance on the H. I like it.