Hi folks,
As Yuneec repair parts become more difficult to find and in order to save some money, I did a repair on the left switch board on one of my ST-16S controllers. The K2 slide (camera tilt slide) on this controller became erratic and the movement of the slide was "too easy"; not like the usual firm and steady feel that you'd expect. That slider is a potentiometer on the left switch board that is common to both the ST-16S and the ST-16 (and perhaps other Yuneec controllers). It has the same form factor and electrical characteristics as one on an old ST-16 switch board from a previous repair. Since I do PC board repairs as a hobby, I had the necessary de-soldering and repair equipment. These boards are compact, so one of the more difficult tasks was working between the switches to remove the old slider without damaging anything. I had to keep reminding myself to be patient. The solder appears to have a higher than typical melting point, but the increased heat necessary did not seem to damage the board. Take a look at the pictures. If you have the equipment to do it, the repair is fairly straightforward. My H Plus controller is back to normal. Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Stephen
As Yuneec repair parts become more difficult to find and in order to save some money, I did a repair on the left switch board on one of my ST-16S controllers. The K2 slide (camera tilt slide) on this controller became erratic and the movement of the slide was "too easy"; not like the usual firm and steady feel that you'd expect. That slider is a potentiometer on the left switch board that is common to both the ST-16S and the ST-16 (and perhaps other Yuneec controllers). It has the same form factor and electrical characteristics as one on an old ST-16 switch board from a previous repair. Since I do PC board repairs as a hobby, I had the necessary de-soldering and repair equipment. These boards are compact, so one of the more difficult tasks was working between the switches to remove the old slider without damaging anything. I had to keep reminding myself to be patient. The solder appears to have a higher than typical melting point, but the increased heat necessary did not seem to damage the board. Take a look at the pictures. If you have the equipment to do it, the repair is fairly straightforward. My H Plus controller is back to normal. Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Stephen
