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Sent your CGO3+ to Yuneec for refocus? Well…..

Mark, you are speaking way above my pay grade. I'm thinking the majority of current 4K cameras all use the same Sony chip, maybe you can google around and find it. I wish I knew more. My stock camera is doing an acceptable job for me. When you find your info, kindly pass it along.
Yeah, baby! :-D What I did do was contact the fine people at Peau Productions (where I bought the lens) and while they told me that they didn't know which chip it was either (I found THAT out from a pretty intensive web search, and it looks as if it's the Exmoor R, because of the backlit LED, that is a MUCH smaller photosite, blah, blah, blah.) So... They told me that the CoC is .0005, and they told me the hyperlocal point was 41"!!! I did a test, and while it's good, I may actually make that 41' instead, because I feel that will give me sharper focused images when I'm in the air. I'll post some tests as I get 'em. It's really crappy, rainy and dark where I am.

Best!

m
 
So I got the Peau lens fro my H #1…. Decided to keep my H #2 with the stock lens and factory focus (really not that bad). I don't think I will be sending anything back in "fear" of getting a smooth barrel lens mount.

I'm still "struggling" with the focus. Using the ST16 HDMI output to a 23" 1080p monitor--- Most of the time, I see too much variation of the video compression…It goes from blurry to sharp but never holds sharp long enough for me to critically focus the lens. I'm using the definition of the leaves on the trees with a nice sun angle to give me that added definition. I thought I had it…Locked it down… Then flew and saw the tree leaves in the distance were still soft.

I also noticed on the Peau lens the sunlight flare seemed more pronounced then the stock H lens…Maybe it was the day…Near sunset. even at 30 to 40 degrees off from the sun it still created problems with the image.

Anyhow, still working on the critical focus -- Need a good sun and the time to do it.
 
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  1. You're right! I think that might be because you're actually viewing 720P on your 23" monitor. That and the compression you are referring to. Are you using photos at all? You may want to try that. I noticed that even jpegs seemed to be a better source of information on the sharpness. The only weird thing for me is that the "preview" I get is WAAAAY different than what actually gets recorded as the image, especially in DNG mode. :-/
 
So I got the Peau lens fro my H #1…. Decided to keep my H #2 with the stock lens and factory focus (really not that bad). I don't think I will be sending anything back in "fear" of getting a smooth barrel lens mount.

I'm still "struggling" with the focus. Using the ST16 HDMI output to a 23" 1080p monitor--- Most of the time, I see too much variation of the video compression…It goes from blurry to sharp but never holds sharp long enough for me to critically focus the lens. I'm using the definition of the leaves on the trees with a nice sun angle to give me that added definition. I thought I had it…Locked it down… Then flew and saw the tree leaves in the distance were still soft.

I also noticed on the Peau lens the sunlight flare seemed more pronounced then the stock H lens…Maybe it was the day…Near sunset. even at 30 to 40 degrees off from the sun it still created problems with the image.

Anyhow, still working on the critical focus -- Need a good sun and the time to do it.
Don't try to focus with video. That may get you in the ballpark, but won't get you critically sharp.
Here's what worked best for me:
Choose a scene outside which has objects that are about 5 feet away, 20 feet away and infinity, all in the same view.
Choose subjects that have a lot of texture such as brick walls, roofing on houses, concrete etc.
Best to have bright sunlight coming from the side to enhance texture, Don't shoot in late evening where high ISO noise will affect image.
Shoot in natural mode. Do not use gorgeous mode. it is over sharpened.
Place the H on a stable surface, no need to fly it.
If your lens is focusing too close, you will need to turn it clockwise.You will probably not have to move it more than 1/8"
Place a pencil mark on the lens mount and a series of marks 1/32" apart on the lens barrel adjacent to it.
Take a series of still shots using jpeg mode
Adjust the lens one mark between shots
Compare the shots side by side at full resolution zoomed in at 100%. Faststone viewer is great for this.
Find the image that is sharpest at 20 feet and acceptably sharp at 5 feet and infinity.
Set the lens to the mark that corresponds to that image,
Shoot another series with the lens set just before and just after this mark to see if they are sharper.
Take some shots at 1 foot away as well. if your lens is razor sharp at 1 foot, it is still focused too close.
Before cementing the lens, take some test flights and shoot stills and video which include subjects close and far out to infinity.

Good luck
 
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Riverrunner… Saw you post that before…. I'll try that method again. Just wasn't patient enough with all the images and reviewing them and tweaking. My focus seems razor sharp at 20-100 feet… Beyond that… Not so happy. I wonder if natural haze might be more of a factor then the actual focus of the lens. Maybe I just need to focus a little further out so that infinity mark looks the way I would expect.

I think i need more test flights before I glue down the lens yet again...
 

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