Agree with all of that except for the fogging. A cold lens will fog when brought into a warm room. A warm lens taken outside into the cold will not fog.so you don't get a fogging lens.
Can you fly the mantis Q in the snowA couple of winter fly techniques that I've learned-by-doing:View attachment 19117View attachment 19118View attachment 19119
- I keep the batteries at room temp and put each batt in a spare glove to keep it from getting too chilled.
- I have shooters gloves, with flip off fingertips so I keep the majority of my hand warm. Flip the fingertips back over when not flying.
- When I'm ready to fly, I'll boot up the ST16 and then the H, finally starting the motors ASAP and letting them idle for up to 2 minutes while the batteries warm-up and the electronics stabilize.
- I take off and climb out at max power levels to heat up the batts, then back off to the "half-rabbit" speed setting.
- On really cold days, I will often get "Low Voltage" warnings just a couple minutes into the flight.
- If I back down to full "Turtle" mode and maneuver gently, the battery voltage will rise back up and no further low-volt warnings even with subsequent hi-current maneuvers.
- I've flown often on winter days with temps around 7 to 9 degrees F. Letting the electronics warm up and stabilize seems to produce better flight characteristics.
- I avoid flying in rain, although sometimes a light mist condition is unavoidable.
- I've flown in snowfall, even heavy, without a moisture problem. I let the airframe (without batteries) cool off in the garage so the camera lens doesn't melt snow to droplets.
- On bright sunny days with 100% snow cover on the ground, I set the camera EV on the ST16 to overexpose by 1.0 or more F-stops. Depends on whether subject is on ground or blue sky. ND filters, UV filter, and Polarizing filter provide a wide range of good results.