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Typhoon H plus no take off

@Mike Halkin, are you sure, you didn't select in the menu the mode switch to be manual in the upper position instead of sport?
This switch should not prevent arming in angle mode. Here is night now. Tomorrow I'll check and write the result.
Ok, I think I disabled GPS in the service menu. To enter there, you need some kind of password.
 
On my controller, this soft switch is available without any password.
 
The soft GPS switch doing nothing. You can turn it off and you will see the OK sign but if you go out from the menu and go in again you will see that the switch is back to the on position.

The manual mode switch works as expected.
 
Speculative proposal. The controller is reprogrammed in some way and on a smart/sport mode position, you have a manual mode.
 
А я думаю, зачем же два переключателя GPS?
I think the intention of Yuneec developer was to offer two different flight mode that PX4 Autopilot has:
- Altitude Mode: Without GPS support but keeps altitude on throttle stick, same as Angle Mode without GPS
- Stabilized Mode: Also without GPS but throttle stick is now really throttle. This could be called sports mode. If forward angle exceeds available power then the drone descends. This allows higher speed.

But at the end they probably decided to keep altitude mode and increase angle limitation a little bit and call this sports mode. H Plus has enough power reserve to do this and keep fun factor.
I tested both flight modes with my Typhoon H and there is a difference. But Typhoon H has less power reserve compared to H Plus.

br HE
 
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I think the intention of Yuneec developer was to offer two different flight mode that PX4 Autopilot has:
- Altitude Mode: Without GPS support but keeps altitude on throttle stick, same as Angle Mode without GPS
- Stabilized Mode: Also without GPS but throttle stick is now really throttle. This could be called sports mode. If forward angle exceeds available power then the drone descends. This allows higher speed.

But at the end they probably decided to keep altitude mode and increase angle limitation a little bit and call this sports mode. H Plus has enough power reserve to do this and keep fun factor.
I tested both flight modes with my Typhoon H and there is a difference. But Typhoon H has less power reserve compared to H Plus.

br HE
Tell me, is it possible to put the GPS module from Typhoon H instead of the GPS module Typhoon H plus? Thanks.
 
Why? According the flight logs GPS is OK. We got proper GPS fix and coordinates, altitude etc. Sensor healthy status says GPS OK too.

onboard_control_sensors_enabled: 3D_GYRO 3D_ACCEL 3D_MAG ABSOLUTE_PRESSURE GPS

br HE
 
This winter 2022-2023 I managed to repair my H plus. The GPS turned out to be faulty. The craftsmen repaired the GPS itself, the battery did not change, something in the GPS unit itself and I did not have to buy a new GPS. To all who responded to the request to help, thank you very much. Mike.
 
Hello everyone. Is it possible to try to restore the battery for H plus if the voltage on all cells has dropped below 2 volts. This is one of my batteries. On the second battery, the voltage on one of the cells is below 1 volt, and on the rest it is normal - 3.8 volts. And then my Typhoon H plus was repaired, but the batteries came to this state. And I want to fly.
 
If you have a third party balancing charger you may be able to restore the battery pack.

Set the charger to do a balancing charge for a 4S LiHV pack with the charge rate at 0.5C (if the pack is a 5200mAh pack you would charge at 2.60A).

It will most likely take a long time to balance and may take two or three attempts to get it balanced. If you are able to get it to balance, do a test flight over a soft grassy area and just hover observing the battery indicator. Land when at 30%, remove the battery, and check the cell voltage levels for consistency.
 
You would need to be very creative using the balancing lead on the battery.
However, if one cell is way low, the cell is likely bad and there is nothing that can be done to fix it. Just get a new battery that you can trust.
 
You would need to be very creative using the balancing lead on the battery.
However, if one cell is way low, the cell is likely bad and there is nothing that can be done to fix it. Just get a new battery that you can trust.
I think so too, just in case I decided to ask. Thank you for the answer.
 
It is easier to bleed charge from a single cell than to try and charge a single cell. The reason is because there is overcharge protection circuitry used in these packs and adding charge to a single cell messes with that circuitry.

What voltage level are you able to achieve on the trouble cell when attempting a balance charge with the B6 charger?

If you can get it to 3.2V, then bleed the other 3 cells down to that level and try balance charging again.

The pack is most likely toast, but it never hurts to try and recover it for ground operations.
 
It is easier to bleed charge from a single cell than to try and charge a single cell. The reason is because there is overcharge protection circuitry used in these packs and adding charge to a single cell messes with that circuitry.

What voltage level are you able to achieve on the trouble cell when attempting a balance charge with the B6 charger?

If you can get it to 3.2V, then bleed the other 3 cells down to that level and try balance charging again.

The pack is most likely toast, but it never hurts to try and recover it for ground operations.
I'll try to keep it short. Realizing all the risks, using IMax B6, I started charging the battery (where 3 cells had a voltage of 3.1-3.3V, and one - 1.2 V) in NiCd mode (!!!), charged up to 12 V, then disconnected and finished charging up to 16.8 with a regular charger with balancing. The second battery, where all 4 cells had a voltage from 1.5 to 2 V (!!!) I was charging as well. The result is that they inflated a little, but not critically, and I inserted them into the battery compartment. One flew off for about 15 minutes .(before that, it lay for 1 year as faulty) the second - 25 min. The camera was removed during the tests on the advice of Steve Carr and everything went well. Of course, I charged them with violations (Ni-Cd), but the fact is that they have become working again. Mike.
 
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