Update bricked, and gui doesn't work....

[fantacmet]

I verify everything is exactly as it is supposed to be before seating the FC onto the drone itself. Seen to many systems fry, and completely destroyed a hard drive years ago that had priceless info on it doing that. Paranoid ever since.

All three FC boards, tested, none of them have power to those 4 pins when holding the power button.

As a quick check I verified there is 16 volts on both sides of the K Fuse. Just to make sure.

 

[WTFDproject]

So the power circuit is interrupted somewhere between the pins and the power supply on the main ESC board. That I don't know. Maybe @h-elsner, @Steve Carr or someone else has it traced out.
At least Main ESC Boards are fairly reasonable on eBay.

 

[fantacmet]

When I was looking they were about 100 more than the FC boards LOL.

Either way, if its been traced back at all, I'm comfortable with soldering SMC. It would be alot easier with a schematic that's for dang sure.

Sounds like I'm having 2 seperate issues. For some reason I can't get ANYTHING to connect to the computer properly. The videos verify it's a legit data cable. I can see if I can dig up another one.

 

[WTFDproject]

...... The videos verify it's a legit data cable. I can see if I can dig up another one.

Or there could still be an issue between the mini-usb connector on the side of the drone and the connector on the other end of the wires. And that mini-usb connector has been part of every FC board test you have made.

If I understand correctly, there were no issues until there were both issues. A power surge while the USB was plugged in and the battery was installed could explain both issues appearing at the same time. Sound like kind of a long stretch of coincidence?
I like to chase coincidences when they show up. They are often not coincidences. They are often symptoms of a previously unrecognized event.

 

[fantacmet]

Well interesting EVERYTHING I connect with this data cable says the same thing. Not recognized. I ordered one, with 1 day shipping from Amazon. Should be here tomorrow.

Not sure if the other issue was there or not to be honest. I vagueley remember the motor test thing sort of working but I would be wrong there. Either way NOTHING else worked at all with the GUI ever.

Either way, another cable could say if these are related or not. One that does work with other stuff, Not just one that windows recognizes as a USB cable, but then can't recognize any devices with.

 

[WTFDproject]

Well interesting EVERYTHING I connect with this data cable says the same thing. Not recognized.

That's a good find. Falls in the same place as the USB connector part of the power surge discussion above. Maybe it was the cable that got hit with the surge instead of the USB connector. @DoomMeister might know if any of the USB related circuitry is located in the USB data cables themselves.

 

[fantacmet]

The fun part is, it doesn't even work with the device it came with. With is a 1500 dollar bi directional scan tool for OBD1 and OBD2.

 

[DoomMeister]

@DoomMeister might know if any of the USB related circuitry is located in the USB data cables themselves.

The only ones I know of with active circuitry are USB-C.

An OTG cable uses an extra connection to allow a device (phone, tablet, etc) to act as a host, but has no active circuitry.

 

[WTFDproject]

So the power circuit is interrupted somewhere between the pins and the power supply on the main ESC board. That I don't know.......

So much for an old man's memory. I remembered when I started tracing it back this morning. This is the local stuff.

 

[WTFDproject]

.... This is the local stuff.

Given the history of mosfets and power issues, this might be helpful:

 

[fantacmet]

Removing that board was not on .y list of things to do as the motor connectors don't want to come apart for me, but oh well.

I have a thermal imaging camera thay might help identify a dead mosfet as well. Might as well try it too. I'll report back later with findings.

 

[WTFDproject]

Removing that board was not on .y list of things to do as the motor connectors don't want to come apart for me, but oh well.

The wires come apart by cutting around the joint with an Exacto type blade, then using two pairs long nosed pliers to grip the connector halves. Lever the noses of the pliers against each other to pull the connector apart.

 

[fantacmet]

Theyre just a pain in the ***, they fit very tightly. I tore the heatshrink but I have tons of it the right size and color.

Anyhow, the Mostfets, capacitors and all have the 5 volts they should(obviously the main power spots have the battery voltage they need).




So far I have only tested this with the FC boards removed. I will try again with one connected here after I eat something. Should be less than 30 minutes before I have more to report.

Wait a sec, I need to double check the mosfets something aint right. No nevermind I was wrong, the mosfets are reading corretly.

Ok so everything is the sme with or without the FC board connected.

Now for whats confusing the **** out of me as it makes ZERO sense.

Power button held, there is 5.31V at B, but not at A. Ok great, means there is a broken trace. So power it all down switch to continuity, and there is continuity between B and A. Each pin tested individually for voltage and continuity. So how in TF is there continuity but no voltage through that pathway? What is between those two points besides circuit traces?

A isn't just not reading the 5.31V, it's reading 0V.

 

[WTFDproject]

...between B and A. Each pin tested individually for voltage and continuity. So how in TF is there continuity but no voltage through that pathway? What is between those two points besides circuit traces?

This is between B and A as you have your drawing marked:

 

[fantacmet]

So nothing. Just the diode itself. Which us functional. This isn't making any sense to me. If there is continuity at a lower voltage such as that either an ohmmeter or continuity tester, than the voltage of 5.31V for which it eas designed to accommodate or even exceed by a percentage, should flow freely.

Maybe I will build part of this circuit in falstad if I can. Falstad.com is great for building ACCURATE circuit simulations. We use it in avionics and avionics repair all the time. Verification of what stuff should and shouldn't be doing

 

[WTFDproject]

So nothing. Just the diode itself. Which us functional. This isn't making any sense to me.

So you have 5.31V at Point "B" but 0 Volts at point "C" with the board powered?


For what it's worth, I have 5.27V at "B" and I have 4.97V at both "C" and "A".

 

[fantacmet]

I will verify this when I get home. Had to take kid to driving school. It's 15 miles each direction. Gas is expensive here.

 

[fantacmet]

I just looked up the diode. Now things make more sense it's not a regular diode it's a zener. OK when I grt back home I'll check it again remembering it's a zener diode. Which means it's probably part of a voltage regulator circuit. If it is dead, I have some regular Zener diodes in various voltage ratings. I'll have to verify wattage though. Yeah putting through hole on SMC isn't ideal, but these SMC are bug enough and my zeners are small enough

 

[fantacmet]

The blue diodes are all working, the one in yellow has a dead short. Zero voltage drop accross it, when it should read 5.3 ish voltage drop. Not sure if that's the only bad part or not. I'll have to swap it with a through hole, but it should tell me if that's the only bad part or not.

 

[fantacmet]

UGH the 5L refers to Schottky not Zener. Having trouble finding a Schottky amongst my spares. Substitution not recommended. Regular Rectifier is too slow and has a higher voltage drop. If these already have problems with mosfets frying, I don't want a lower switch time to risk burning one out.

To clarify my board has 5L4559 diodes, and the one you show is SS510. Similar specs. Thr 5L4559 is not available. The SS510 is 6-8 weeks out. So far I have nothing to remove them from but I'll keep looking.