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About to be a yuneecer ( not even know it makes any sense)

arruntus

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I use my H520 batteries until they look like this and I notice a consistent 1 to 2 bar on any of the cells on the DY5 charger. This one is about done. New one on the way. I think the other volt meters that can read each cell is probably a great idea as well.

View attachment 19539 View attachment 19538

How many charge cycles does it take for your battery to swell?
 
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Ok I just did the calibration and everything is fine now....... Not my mood View attachment 19562 View attachment 19563

That's good, but don't expect it to "stick", lol. Recalibrating does solve it sometimes, but in my experience has been temporary which is why I think it is a mechanical issue. If it were the potentiometer it seems like it wouldn't be correctable and the part would fail soon?
 
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... Let's say the problem will appear again ... Some time in the future so the center point of my pitch will stay at 8% off.
Now the drone will feel that offset or it means I have not full 100%swing.

I mean, with a 8 % offset on the pitch , the drone will move By itself never hovering again?

No, you just won't get full 100% forward. I noticed this as well when the copter did not seem to go to full speed.
 
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Hey Max,

We had it both, sometimes immediately with brand new controllers from the box and sometimes first time after being in use for months.

I don’t know... some say it is related to dirt in the pots others say that the pots come loose....

When buying new sets last year we tested the controllers right at our dealers store one after another until we found a controller that was working - which drove our dealer crazy once in a while :). I have learned that there are many defective units in stock.

We stopped trying to repair or clean etc. and do now replace the entire stick units in case necessary. During the warranty period Yuneec gets their scrap back for repair ;-)

Regards,

Sven
So the repair solution is to change the entire stick..? So I can just buy some Spare parts I think they are pretty cheap about 25€ in yuneec official site. And it is just 4 screws and a plug..... Because sending the TX back to yunee is going to take forever...
 
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From my experience you will feel the offset. The drone is then not holding its position or it does not properly react to your commands.

Take a close look at the RC monitor. If the values react delayed or the center points are not held correctly or the limits are not reached correctly, it needs to be repaired/replaced.

Like @chascoadmin says, the first sign is mostly that the values in the RC monitor follow the real stick movements with some significant delay.

Regards,

Sven
 
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So the repair solution is to change the entire stick..? So I can just buy some Spare parts I think they are pretty cheap about 25€ in yuneec official site. And it is just 4 screws and a plug..... Because sending the TX back to yunee is going to take forever...

Yes, it is dead simple to replace. 4 screws and 2 plugs. 25 Euros and 10 minutes time. 👍

Just out of interest: Would you need to send it to Germany or does Yuneec have a service branch in Italy?
 
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Yes, it is dead simple to replace. 4 screws and 2 plugs. 25 Euros and 10 minutes time. 👍

Just out of interest: Would you need to send it to Germany or does Yuneec have a service branch in Italy?
I'll take a closer look at the rc monitor each time I'll use it... I guess I did not have a good start anyways.

About the yuneec service , I have no idea . I have to ask the dealer I bought the drone from.
 
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What do you think I should do ?
Should I Contact yuneec and ask for a replacement, even if the calibration fixed the problem or wait until the problem pops up again and then contact yuneec..?
 
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DoomMeister

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@Max_IT ,

The first step when you are experiencing an offset like you had before calibrating is to clean the potentiometers and the connector at the potentiometer. Then if that does not correct the problem use the calibration for the ST-16S. Doing the calibration with a dirty or defective potentiometer can cause the same problem in the opposite direction. If the calibration is done improperly by not having the sticks or rate sliders centered during the first half of the calibration it can affect the speed control and tilt function as well.
 
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@Max_IT ,

The first step when you are experiencing an offset like you had before calibrating is to clean the potentiometers and the connector at the potentiometer. Then if that does not correct the problem use the calibration for the ST-16S. Doing the calibration with a dirty or defective potentiometer can cause the same problem in the opposite direction. If the calibration is done improperly by not having the sticks or rate sliders centered during the first half of the calibration it can affect the speed control and tilt function as well.
I understand, but since is brand new, I cannot open it ( as first attempt to fix the problem) and actually I do not want to..... not for at least a year.... I'll wait to see if it happens again... I mean, if it is that defective , my waiting will be really short.
 
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Just i said .....
It's not much but.... At leat it gets to 100 in both ways.
I think I have to call the dealer or straight yuneec... 20191230_201309.jpg
 
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I also had this potentiometer problem shortly after the purchase, I could move forward but go Backward, a recalibration resolved the problem which returned quickly enough. I solved the problem by dismantling the two potentiometers, blown with compressed air and injection through the small ventilation hole of a contact cleaner in the 4 potentiometers and agitation of the joysticks for a long time.
Operation repeated twice and for 1 year and a half, everything is fine.
Before each flight, to avoid any unpleasant surprise, going through the RC Monitor menu does not hurt.
This saved me from sending the radio back and being penalized.
 
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DoomMeister

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The problem you are seeing is most likely what we all see with the sticks on the ST-16 and ST-16S. When they sit unused for an extended period they are prone to oxidation and must be stirred a lot and sometimes cleaned to restore normal function.

You can try swapping the controller at your dealer, but it is likely you will encounter the same thing either now with it coming off the shelf or in the future if it sits for a few weeks without being used.

As @claudius62 stated, it is good to go into the hardware monitor before the first flight of the day and check stick response while you are waiting for the 520 and the controller to acquire satellites.
 
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I also had this potentiometer problem shortly after the purchase, I could move forward but go further, a recalibration resolved the problem which returned quickly enough. I solved the problem by dismantling the two potentiometers, blown with compressed air and injection through the small ventilation hole of a contact cleaner in the 4 potentiometers and agitation of the joysticks for a long time.
Operation repeated twice and for 1 year and a half, everything is fine.
Before each flight, to avoid any unpleasant surprise, going through the RC Monitor menu does not hurt.
This saved me from sending the radio back and being penalized.
When you say dismantling, you mean opening the TX and opening the stick housing?
 
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Yes, I opened the radio (not very difficult), dismantle the block with the two potentiometers (4 screws) to have access to the small vent hole on each one in order to inject the product inside, long stir the potentiometers to properly clean and give a blow of compressed air to expel the excess product without insisting. then reassembly.
I have two new potentiometers in the suitcase to help me out the day "just in case" so as not to be penalized for traveling or on vacation. 17 € the set of potentiometers, it is not the sea to drink and cheaper than a return to the after-sales service.
 
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DoomMeister

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I open the back of my ST-16 (which is the same as the ST-16S for this procedure), and unplug the stick gimbal at the end where it plugs into the control board. Then remove the four screws that hold the gimbal in place. This allows you to spray the potentiometers without getting the rest of the ST-16 wet. You can also carefully disconnect/connect the plugs at the potentiometers to help remove the thin oxidation they get.
 
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arruntus

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It's tough to say, but I am guessing about 20 flights or so. I am in Texas so our heat is not nice to batteries, but these stock batteries in particular seem vunerable.

20 flights only? Even if it's 40, it would still seem like very little, but very little.

Even if it's very hot in your area, with all the love, you're not doing anything wrong? A battery, no matter how bad it is, if you take care of it correctly, less than 100 or 150 cycles will do.

When you mentioned that you change batteries regularly, I was alarmed, so I asked you. You can consider buying a small portable fridge as a means of transport so that the batteries do not suffer so much and at home leave them in a cool area.

If you want to comment on the whole process that you follow with the batteries, the charge, how you use them, above, same between all we find where can be that hypothetical failure that makes them last so little, what's for sure is that it's not normal for you to have only 20 cycles 😞
 
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20 flights only? Even if it's 40, it would still seem like very little, but very little.

Even if it's very hot in your area, with all the love, you're not doing anything wrong? A battery, no matter how bad it is, if you take care of it correctly, less than 100 or 150 cycles will do.

When you mentioned that you change batteries regularly, I was alarmed, so I asked you. You can consider buying a small portable fridge as a means of transport so that the batteries do not suffer so much and at home leave them in a cool area.

If you want to comment on the whole process that you follow with the batteries, the charge, how you use them, above, same between all we find where can be that hypothetical failure that makes them last so little, what's for sure is that it's not normal for you to have only 20 cycles 😞
You asked how many cycles before I notice the swelling... I get well beyond 20 flights out of each battery using my method of rotation and criteria for what I consider to be unsafe, but there is a noticeable difference between a new cold battery and a warm 20 cycle battery on pretty much every system I have ever seen. It's just more noticeable on the H520 because they are so open. I can't tell you exactly how many cycles the batteries I am retiring have had since the Yuneec batteries are dumb... I keep 7 in stock and leave 2 out each week. Around 300-400 flights per year with this one unit and another 200 with another.
 
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