About to be a yuneecer ( not even know it makes any sense)

[arruntus]

The bolt has to be pushed in a little further so that it does not interfere with the proper functioning of the lever and allows the battery to be pushed all the way in. No problem.

The sticker, which you have to remove because it has a tab to do it, I've never seen it before. It's something new to warn that you have to push it enough so it doesn't get loose. There shouldn't be a gap of 1mm, there should be no gap at all in the body of the H520.

Maybe the sticker is the one that prevents you from entering correctly, and instead of being a very useful warning, it becomes the opposite of the function you are looking for

 

[chascoadmin]

I use my H520 batteries until they look like this and I notice a consistent 1 to 2 bar on any of the cells on the DY5 charger. This one is about done. New one on the way. I think the other volt meters that can read each cell is probably a great idea as well.

 

[Max_IT]

there shouldn't be a gap of 1mm, there should be no gap at all in the body of the H520.

OK, that is going to be a huge problem
Because I think I used enough pressure to slide the battery in.
Can you take a side picture of the battery inserted? Just to make a comparison...?

 

[DoomMeister]

@NorWiscPilot

Could you compare the insertion depth of the battery in post #158 to your H520?

To me it looks like it is not fully inserted. With my TH Pro I had to insert the battery about halfway and then slap it in to get it fully seated when I first got it. If I just applied pressure it felt like I would damage something on the aircraft frame. After several insertions with each battery it became less necessary to slap the battery in as the tension in the Deans connectors on the battery side relaxed a bit.

 

[Max_IT]

This is another battery ( I have four).. All of them, leave a gap that I measure with an eletronic caliper, it's from.0.64 mm to 0.88mm.
I also slide the battery half in, then slap it inside with some force... Nothing changed..... It just doesn't go all the way in. The only thing I can do, as you said, is keep doing it till it settle itself down ... Will it happen?...
Can I fly?

 

[chascoadmin]

This is another battery ( I have four).. All of them, leave a gap that I measure with an eletronic caliper, it's from.0.64 mm to 0.88mm.
I also slide the battery half in, then slap it inside with some force... Nothing changed..... It just doesn't go all the way in. The only thing I can do, as you said, is keep doing it till it settle itself down ... Will it happen?...
Can I fly? View attachment 19540

As long as you are getting a definite click and can't easy pull the battery out with the release door at only 45 degrees (not fully disengaging the locking tab) then you are fine.

 

[NorWiscPilot]

@NorWiscPilot

Could you compare the insertion depth of the battery in post #158 to your H520?

To me it looks like it is not fully inserted. With my TH Pro I had to insert the battery about halfway and then slap it in to get it fully seated when I first got it. If I just applied pressure it felt like I would damage something on the aircraft frame. After several insertions with each battery it became less necessary to slap the battery in as the tension in the Deans connectors on the battery side relaxed a bit.

Doom,

Here are two images for comparison. One is the battery gap upon insertion to the point where the click is heard. The second is a slam insert.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

1 - Insertion only to point click is heard:


2-Slam insert:

 

[chascoadmin]

Doom,

Here are two images for comparison. One is the battery gap upon insertion to the point where the click is heard. The second is a slam insert.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

1 - Insertion only to point click is heard:
View attachment 19544

2-Slam insert:
View attachment 19545

#1 looks a little more than what was in the previous post. Maybe because of the top view or slightly lesser pressure. Regardless, mine looks similar to your first post except the gap is lesser at the top. It's the same whether I use normal or slam force. I suppose just manufacturing tolerances. My P4P does the same.

 

[Max_IT]

Ok... What I see is that there is a small gap anyways..... I even tried to pull the battery from its sides but it was firmly blocked......
I don't like how it locks to the drone and much less the fact it locks to a thin plastic bar .... Hope to never see the battery fall off the drone .. Cross fingers

 

[chascoadmin]

Ok... What I see is that there is a small gap anyways..... I even tried to pull the battery from its sides but it was firmly blocked......
I don't like how it locks to the drone and much less the fact it locks to a thin plastic bar .... Hope to never see the battery fall off the drone .. Cross fingers

I have over 400 flights with the stock batteries and have never seen one ever seem loose after running. I suppose the warmer they get the tighter they get. ?

 

[DoomMeister]

Ok... What I see is that there is a small gap anyways..... I even tried to pull the battery from its sides but it was firmly blocked......
I don't like how it locks to the drone and much less the fact it locks to a thin plastic bar .... Hope to never see the battery fall off the drone .. Cross fingers

If you hear that final click of the latch snapping into place then you are inserted to the point that the battery will not disengage.

Thanks to @NorWiscPilot and @chascoadmin for their input on the battery latching.

 

[Max_IT]

Hi... I have another problem.
I tried to start the motor at home just to see if it works and it says cannot start the motor because pitch stick at - 10%..... Why? It's brand new and I never ever used.......
Another thing .. I see today that the battery continue to say 100% and it is not.... I think
Shold I worry?

 

[DoomMeister]

Give the sticks a vigorous stir, then check their reaction in the hardware monitor screen you are showing. Check that the output follows what you are doing with the stick without jitter and that they return to neutral position with both slow and fast stick movements.

If you continue to have the problem, it is advisable to use a plastic safe electrical contact cleaner to clean the pots on the stick gimbals.

 

[MrEd]

Hi Max,

Well known problem with the St16 and St16s unfortunately. We had it with 50% of all our remote controllers (for the old TH and the H520). If calibration and/or cleaning does not resolve it, send it to Yuneec for repair.

Regards,

Sven

 

[chascoadmin]

Yep, I have used 4 or 5 ST16(s) remotes over the years and the stick mechanisms seem a little flaky, mostly on the pitch side. I sifted a very small amount of talcum powder on the top and bottom extents of the roller, pushed up and down several times and have not had that problem in a while. I would have used teflon if I had it...

 

[Max_IT]

Hi Max,

Well known problem with the St16 and St16s unfortunately. We had it with 50% of all our remote controllers (for the old TH and the H520). If calibration and/or cleaning does not resolve it, send it to Yuneec for repair.

Regards,

Sven

Hi @MrEd
I knew about the problem but i thought it was a problem caused from using the controller and not out of the box

 

[chascoadmin]

Hi @MrEd
I knew about the problem but i thought it was a problem caused from using the controller and not out of the box

I first noticed it on RCs that I had used for a while or got used from the testing team, but once I started paying closer attention to the RC Monitor display I see that the return to center from the stick pulled back does not respond as quickly as the opposite direction or either of the yaw/altitude controls. I hope it is not a petentiometer problem and just a QA/QC oversight on a part design that is causing some drag.

 

[Max_IT]

Ok I just did the calibration and everything is fine now....... Not my mood

 

[MrEd]

Hey Max,

We had it both, sometimes immediately with brand new controllers from the box and sometimes first time after being in use for months.

I don’t know... some say it is related to dirt in the pots others say that the pots come loose....

When buying new sets last year we tested the controllers right at our dealers store one after another until we found a controller that was working - which drove our dealer crazy once in a while . I have learned that there are many defective units in stock.

We stopped trying to repair or clean etc. and do now replace the entire stick units in case necessary. During the warranty period Yuneec gets their scrap back for repair ;-)

Regards,

Sven

 

[Max_IT]

... Let's say the problem will appear again ... Some time in the future so the center point of my pitch will stay at 8% off.
Now the drone will feel that offset or it means I have not full 100%swing.

I mean, with a 8 % offset on the pitch , the drone will move By itself never hovering again?