Hi boys and girls , hoping to get some assistance with my platform. All in all my Typhoon H is awesome, havent flipped 'er yet and Im flying daily. I took her up to get some imaging while the fires were burning crazy up here recently,,when I noticed my camera had a serious attitude. Wont stop spinning on gimble and video feed is redish. Camera slide setting in either rabbit nor turtle makes any difference, S1 is set to A, just noticed my pan switch S2 is malfunctioning o needs calibration, pan control is unresponsive in hardware monitor..Someone plz kick me in the right direction.
*****BAD CAM*****
- Thread starter aeriel
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I assume you have a CGO3+ Camera........
It sounds like your Slip Ring Wires are possibly shorting together.....
It sounds like your Slip Ring Wires are possibly shorting together.....
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2019
- Messages
- 483
- Reaction score
- 676
- Location
- Citrus Heights, CA
- Website
- yuneecskins.com
This is crazy - I'm in Australia and had a similar issue today! It must be the moon!
It sounds like you may have more than one issue:
"video feed is redish"
Is only the video feed to the ST16 reddish? Is the actual video reddish when viewed on a computer? If the video on the SD card is normal, then the issue is with the controller, not the camera.
"S1 is set to A"
S1 is not related to either pan or image tint. It governs how the Pitch (tilt) slider affects the camera tilt. Does camera tilt seem normal?
"S2 is malfunctioning o needs calibration"
There is no calibration of S2. If defective it is easier to replace than to repair.
"pan control is unresponsive in hardware monitor."
Is "K1" centered in Hardware monitor?
S1, S2 and K1 are on the same internal board of the ST16 (left button board), and share the same connector with the controllers main board. I would first remove the back, and check the connectors associated with the left button board. @Yuneec Skins has the button board in stock.
Also, K2 is a potentiometer. They are subject to corrosion, which can sometimes be remedied by rapidly moving the knob back and forth, or by spraying the pot with contact cleaner.
Mostly, it sounds like a bad board or a bad connector.
These are the button board connectors:
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Thanks for chiming in , the purpose of naming off the s1 s2 s forth positions was to try and give as much info as possible , Ill answer your questions in order asked:
video feed is only redish while viewing it thru ground station, no cam dies not tilt normal but like I said it spins non stop with little regard to K1 position,yes k1 is centered. Whats striking me as odd is the fact that all of this happened at once with no obvious cause ya know>?
At least all the problems seem to be controller problems instead of the camera.
Troubleshooting will be difficult unless you have another ST16 available to change out parts.
If you only have one ST16, the first logical step is to simply unplug the left button board from the larger board at the bottom of the ST16. Start the ST16 and power up the camera. See if the controller video goes back to normal, and see if the camera gimbal stops spinning. That will give a hint if the problem is a short in the button board or associated cables.
Troubleshooting will be difficult unless you have another ST16 available to change out parts.
If you only have one ST16, the first logical step is to simply unplug the left button board from the larger board at the bottom of the ST16. Start the ST16 and power up the camera. See if the controller video goes back to normal, and see if the camera gimbal stops spinning. That will give a hint if the problem is a short in the button board or associated cables.
PERFECT!! Thank you mucho, you read my mind !! My next question was going to be if you could give me a starting point . Ill do what you suggested now and jump back in here and advise my findings. Thanks again for helping me get this sorted out. Stay tuned
ok well, disconnected the board as suggested, picture is no longer red but cam still spinning by itself...suggestions??
Give me a few minutes. I will go disconnect the board on my ST16, and see if it makes my camera spin. Be right back.
Interesting. It does not make the camera spin on mine, but it makes the camera tilt down to almost bottom. I tried disconnecting under a few different switch and pot settings. None made any difference. It was always the camera tilt, and always to the same angle. If I had the camera rotating when I unplugged, it would just stop at whatever angle it was pointing. It did not continue to rotate.
It is possible each controller has a "default" setting for each of the devices on the board. Maybe part of initial factory calibrations? When the board is disconnected, the settings go to the default. I have nothing to substantiate that thought, but it does seem "believable".
Anyway, I think what you see pretty much suggests the left button board is bad, and is the only issue you have. Yuneec Skins has it listed as "https://yuneecskins.com/all-products/ols/products/typhoon-h-st16-left-switch-board". @Yuneec Skins is a member of this forum, and very easy to do business with.
It is possible each controller has a "default" setting for each of the devices on the board. Maybe part of initial factory calibrations? When the board is disconnected, the settings go to the default. I have nothing to substantiate that thought, but it does seem "believable".
Anyway, I think what you see pretty much suggests the left button board is bad, and is the only issue you have. Yuneec Skins has it listed as "https://yuneecskins.com/all-products/ols/products/typhoon-h-st16-left-switch-board". @Yuneec Skins is a member of this forum, and very easy to do business with.
It also just occurred to me that the pitch slider and the Yaw knob both get calibration bias during normal calibration. The bias is stored on the large flight control board on the other end the cable. When the cable is unplugged (or the board dies), all the FC board has left is that bias, and the camera will move according to that bias as if the bias was the entire signal.
I'm gonna go play some more. Check back later for the results.
I'm gonna go play some more. Check back later for the results.
Yup. That created your symptoms when the button board was unplugged. I messed with the calibrations to intentionally install a bias. Then I unplugged the button board. When the board was unplugged, the camera started to rotate in accordance to the bias I had just installed.
Which brings up a good point. You will have to run the controller calibration program when you install the new button board. There are dozens of videos on YouTube to describe the calibration, and almost all of them are WRONG. I only know of two calibration videos that are correctly done. One of them was made by @Steve Carr of this forum. When you get the board installed, run the calibration as described by the videos listed here:
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Which brings up a good point. You will have to run the controller calibration program when you install the new button board. There are dozens of videos on YouTube to describe the calibration, and almost all of them are WRONG. I only know of two calibration videos that are correctly done. One of them was made by @Steve Carr of this forum. When you get the board installed, run the calibration as described by the videos listed here:
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Ok..here we go. Did as suggested and purchased the boards from yuneec skins. Installed them, yes both sides and still same same same spinny camera on its axis. So now im thinkin somethings purty messed up and about to just purchase a new cam. But before I do, lll entertain a few more suggestions if anyone has any. One thing that I did figure out after this last round is this,, If I just start the vehicle by itself, the camera boots, does it's orientation thingee and then sits back and waits. But as soon as the controller is booted thats when the camera starts going bonkers and takes a mind of its own, non stop spinning with lens pointed straight down. Help?? plz?? pretty please???
On a side note, shout out to the fellas over at yuneec skins!! Straight up those guys are on top of things, placed my order and 2 days later its on my door step! Even got a bonus bag of skittles in my box. No JOKE,,they tossed in a bag of flippin skittles...ha!!
On a side note, shout out to the fellas over at yuneec skins!! Straight up those guys are on top of things, placed my order and 2 days later its on my door step! Even got a bonus bag of skittles in my box. No JOKE,,they tossed in a bag of flippin skittles...ha!!
Did you go through the ST16 calibration procedure after replacing the boards? Make sure you center the rate slider, the camera pitch slider, the camera yaw knob, and both control gimbals before exiting the first portion of the calibration.
The new camera will behave exactly like the one you have. It's not a camera issue. It sounds like a controller calibration was done when the original button board was sending bad signal. That calibration bias is still in the controller mainboard. If the new button board doesn't need the same level of bias, the camera will move according to the difference until you run the calibration again.
If running the calibration does not stop the movement, we will need to discuss more.
The Skittles are a trap. One bag. Two old folks in the house. It was a helluva fight. But she did let me keep one to make me feel better.
