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Before first flight out of the box, is it necessary to do Gyro and Accelerometer calibration?

Should the camera be removed while doing those calibrations?
The users manual updated by @ogrench , https://yuneecpilots.com/attachments/typhoon_h_plus_manual2-pdf.10287/ on page 42 for compass calibration has the following warning:
WARNING:
Remove the camera for this procedure to prevent damage to the gimbal and/or you.
Ensure the Propellers are removed also.
Given that the accelerator calibration also has you moving the H+ in a similar manner, it is probably a good idea to removed the camera. Also, the images associated with the gyro calibration show an H+ without the camera. I suppose one could do the calibration with the camera installed if the gimbal retainer is in place, but the safe approach would be with camera removed. EDIT: per @NorWiscPilot , not a good idea to have gimbal clamped when H+ is powered up.
 
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It all depends on whether the calibrations can be performed with the camera detached.

Not sure about the H+ as I do not have one nor have I read the manual.

If the calibrations, aside from the gimbal, can be done without the camera (as in, the H+ can be bound to the ST16s without the camera and the calibration menus are active without said camera) then by all means save the wear and tear in the gimbal. But, if leaving the camera on the craft, it is likely a good idea to leave the gimbal lock OFF whenever powering up the H+. The gimbal is going to try and keep itself level no matter what attitude. Therefore, the lock will likely only hurt, not help.

That’s what logic tells me anyway. “Your mileage may vary.”

Jeff

P.S. my point of reference is the H520. I have yet to find a way to calibrate anything without the camera attached.
 
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It all depends on whether the calibrations can be performed with the camera detached.

Not sure about the H+ as I do not have one nor have I read the manual.

If the calibrations, aside from the gimbal, can be done without the camera (as in, the H+ can be bound to the ST16s without the camera and the calibration menus are active without said camera) then by all means save the wear and tear in the gimbal. But, if leaving the camera on the craft, it is likely a good idea to leave the gimbal lock OFF whenever powering up the H+. The gimbal is going to try and keep itself level no matter what attitude. Therefore, the lock will likely only hurt, not help.

That’s what logic tells me anyway. “Your mileage may vary.”

Jeff

P.S. my point of reference is the H520. I have yet to find a way to calibrate anything without the camera attached.
@NorWiscPilot , Good points, I have NOT done a compass (or gimblal, or accelerometer) calibration yet so forgot that the H+ must be ON, hence having the gimbal locked is a VERY BAD IDEA. (I'll modify my post after I finish this one).
Of note is that in the user manual provided by Yuneec, there is NO mention of removing the camera for the compass test. Also, there are NO instructions for how to remove the camera...
 
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I tried it with the camera removed and I couldn't do the calibration- kept hitting the "start" button and nothing . Put the camera back on and I could perform the calibration .
 
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For what it is worth, I have found that to do the Compass calibration on the H Plus without camera is possible - you just need to start the process first - then remove the camera and proceed. As yet I have done it three times and have not run up against a time-out like can happen with the 480. As for the accelerometer calibration; I did not figure out the "Start First" method mentioned above and went through it the first time - gimbal attached. I was cringing the whole way. Since my Plus is working perfectly so far (knock on wood) I have not attempted a re-cal of the accelerometer to see if starting the process first will work with the camera removed but I have a feeling it will. My little canary wings are a tad sore at this point. ;)
 
For what it is worth, I have found that to do the Compass calibration on the H Plus without camera is possible - you just need to start the process first - then remove the camera and proceed. As yet I have done it three times and have not run up against a time-out like can happen with the 480. As for the accelerometer calibration; I did not figure out the "Start First" method mentioned above and went through it the first time - gimbal attached. I was cringing the whole way. Since my Plus is working perfectly so far (knock on wood) I have not attempted a re-cal of the accelerometer to see if starting the process first will work with the camera removed but I have a feeling it will. My little canary wings are a tad sore at this point. ;)
I can confirm that the accelerometer calibration does indeed work with the 'Start First' method. For me, the calibration I enjoyed the most was the Gyro calibration :) . Almost no anxiety expended while that was being performed :rolleyes:.
 
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I can confirm that the accelerometer calibration does indeed work with the 'Start First' method. For me, the calibration I enjoyed the most was the Gyro calibration :) . Almost no anxiety expended while that was being performed :rolleyes:.
@Ty Pilot I'm now having second thoughts about the accelerometer calibration because the 'revised manual' states that the the controller display will change with numbers being shown for successful calibrations in the various orientations. My H+ did the double beeps in each orientation and when done the lights changed to the expected 'ready for flight' configuration. HOWEVER, the controller display never changed showing numbers in the dots.

My question is whether the manual is wrong, or whether I mis-interpreted success/failure based on the lights? When you did the accelerometer calibration WITH the camera, what did the controller display look like as you progressed through the calibration?

It could also be that the calibration was successful but because the camera was not connected, full communication back to the controller was not possible so the controller display was not updated... Thoughts?

My path forward on this topic:
I just 'tricked out' my ST16S per @Ty Pilot controller tray and HD video recorder per his YouTube video
. I will now re-do the calibrations, with and without the camera. This time I will record the controller display in order to to have documentation on whether the controller display differs depending upon the camera connection. I'll do this later today (in a couple of hours).
 
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OK, redid the accelerometer and compass calibrations both with and without the camera installed.

The results:

Without Camera : calibration for both accelerometer and compass appeared to be successful based upon the H+ beeps and the color of the motor lights. However, there was no visual indication of success from the controller.

With Camera : calibrations successful - beeping and lights the same as above AND with visual indications on the controller were as described in @ogrench 's revised manual (showing which orientations of the H+ had been successfully completed), complete with a final display for each calibration stating that the calibration was successful.
 
Based on what you've described, I would continue to perform calibrations without the camera, as long as you have the cues provided that the calibration completes...

1) Does the H+ do a reboot complete with it's starting uptone, like the H does on calibrations?

2) Also like the H, do you need to manually restart the H+ after calibrating the gimbal?
 
Based on what you've described, I would continue to perform calibrations without the camera, as long as you have the cues provided that the calibration completes...

1) Does the H+ do a reboot complete with it's starting uptone, like the H does on calibrations?

2) Also like the H, do you need to manually restart the H+ after calibrating the gimbal?
Regarding #1, I will say yes. I don't have an H so I can't compare behaviors directly. That said, shortly after the 'guidance lights' (for compass calibration for example) turn off, the H+ does the ascending beeping and then the motor lights flicker and turn on in the 'successfully booted' configuration. This all happens pretty quickly (maybe about 5 seconds after completion of calibration).

Regarding #2, do you mean gyro rather than gimbal as I am unaware of a gimbal calibration routine? I would say the answer is yes to manual reboot as the H+ did not reboot on its own after the Gyro calibration. That said, there is nothing in the manual about needing to reboot after the Gyro calibration.
 
I had the same issues: Juneec support provided me the following link, which worked for me.


The calibration for the H+ is the same for the H520.
 
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Hello, in general, a calibration is only required if the device wants this, so indicating.
If a message is displayed on the ST16s or the status LEDs (rear two) of the Typhoon H + are flashing, the compass must be calibrated.
Also, a calibration of the compass should be done after a firmware update.

The calibration routines in the service menu are not yet officially released and, if not carried out properly, may result in the copter being unusable. Especially for the gyro calibration MUST have very special conditions. PLEASE DO NOT calibrate (warranty loss).

greeting
Fan Tho Mass

-------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- ------------
Deutsche Übersetzung:

Hallo, allerseits ist eine Kalibrierung nur dann, wenn das Gerät diese Wünsche erfüllt, auch angezeigt.
Writing on the ST16s eine LED (Hintereinander) des Typhoon H +, muss eine Kalibrierung des Kompasses durchführen.
Ebenfalls sollte eine Kalibrierung des Kompasses nach einem Firmwareupdate durchgeführt werden.

Die Kalibrierungsroutinen im Servicemenü sind noch nicht offiziell freigegeben und können bei unsachgemäßer Durchführung auch dafür sorgen, dass der Copter nicht mehr genutzt werden kann. Für die Gyroskalibrierung müssen ganz spezielle Bedingungen verherrschen, damit diese fehlerfrei durchgeführt werden kann. BITTE NICHT Kalibrieren (Garantieverlust).

Gruß
Fan Tho Mass
 

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