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Typhoon H or Typhoon Pro Help

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Jul 8, 2023
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Hi everyone.

This is my first post. I've read a lot but not posted before.

I have three DJI's but had always liked the look of the Typhoon's so when a used one came up for sale locally I bought it. It was listed as a Yuneec Typhoon H Pro but not sure if it is a regular H or H Pro. The Controller has only two antennas not three like most I've seen. It does have the real sense sensors on it but I've watched videos of installing one of them on a regular H model so not sure.

I am flying it out in the country side with no big buildings around...just trees. Firmware was just updated before I purchased it.

I flew it three times and everything seemed to be fine but then on the 4th flight I noticed it drifting to right when attempting to fly a long straight line. I flew a straight line (about a thousand feet away) and it veered off to the right. I turned around and then attempted to fly a straight line back to me & it again veered to the right on its return back to me.

I thought perhaps the calibration was off so did the compass calibration, accelerometer calibration & gimbal calibration. Test flew it and it didn't make any difference.

I switched out controller batteries and Typhoon batteries but that made no difference.

I also noticed that it would not always yaw (pirouette) to the left, to the right yes but not to the left & it would not stay stable in a hover.

I also noticed the altimeter was not accurate. It would be in a hover at 10 feet but would show something minus 3 feet on the controller. (took off at ground level)

I recalibrated everything again but that did not help.

Does anyone have any advise I could try to get the Typhoon back in the air?

Thank you in advance for any and all help, I appreciate it.
 
Last edited:
.....but then on the 4th flight I noticed it drifting to right when attempting to fly a long straight line. I flew a straight line (about a thousand feet away) and it veered off to the right. I turned around and then attempted to fly a straight line back to me & it again veered to the right on its return back to me.

I thought perhaps the calibration was off so did the compass calibration, accelerometer calibration & gimbal calibration. Test flew it and it didn't make any difference.

I switched out controller batteries and Typhoon batteries but that made no difference.

I also noticed that it would not always yaw (pirouette) to the left, to the right yes but not to the left & it would not stay stable in a hover.

I also noticed the altimeter was not accurate. It would be in a hover at 10 feet but would show something minus 3 feet on the controller. (took off at ground level)

I recalibrated everything again but that did not help.

Does anyone have any advise I could try to get the Typhoon back in the air?

Thank you in advance for any and all help, I appreciate it.
You are calibrating things on the drone, but the more critical of the problems you describe come from the controller.
The altimeter is a drone thing, but it's pretty common does not often cause serious problems and can be discussed after fixing the controller.
The drifting is also a probably a drone thing. The comment that the drone does not stay stable in a hover needs more detail. If it is just general random drifts of a few feet, that's one issue. If it is moving in circles that look something like it is being flushed down a toilet, that's another thing, and needs to be addressed.

But mostly there are a couple of controller things that sound like they should be looked at first.
1.) Corrosion of the gimbal stick pots. Doesn't happen much on DJI. Does on Yuneec. The check is to open the controller Hardware Monitor and ensure all sticks move smoothly and have full travel. The cure comes in a couple of levels. The first level is "vigorous stirring" of the sticks for a few seconds, then look at it again on Hardware Monitor. The next level is to spray some plastic safe contact cleaner on the pots and stir some more, check again, etc. Final level would be to replace the gimbal, but that is really rare.
2.) The other concern comes in the way you describe the drone veering right while traveling but did not mention it consistently drifting right while in a hover. It is vaguely possible that could be a mechanical issue in the gimbal, but that is unlikely. It more likely suggests someone has altered something in the Channel Settings. The Hardware Monitor cannot detect that. It can only be seen by the "Final Output Display". Open the final output display by two rapid taps on the VOLTS icon. Push the right stick forward. ONLY CH03 scale should move. If the CG02 scale also moves, it implies the two channels are mixed in Channel Settings. The cure could be to fix the calibration issue manually, but that is somewhat challenging and is not needed since everything on a TH should be at factory standard anyway. You can achieve factory standard setting by doing a "Factory Reset". A factory reset is generally a good thing to do with a new controller anyway if it has been used by a previous owner. (Side Note. Make a copy of the flight logs before doing a factory reset. We may need them if the easy answers don't work.)
If you don't want to do a factory reset of the currently bound Model you can create a new Model and bind the camera/drone to the new model. Then do the Hardware Monitor and Final Output display checks again.
3.) The third area to explore is actual Channel Calibration (not the same as "Channel Settings"). Channel calibration is really never needed unless hardware has been replaced. This would deserve more discussion before doing as there can be consequences if you use calibration for the wrong circumstances.
 
You are calibrating things on the drone, but the more critical of the problems you describe come from the controller.
The altimeter is a drone thing, but it's pretty common does not often cause serious problems and can be discussed after fixing the controller.
The drifting is also a probably a drone thing. The comment that is does not stay stable in a hover needs more detail. If it is just general random drifts of a few feet, that's one issue. If it is moving in circles that look something like it is being flushed down a toilet, that's another thing, and needs to be addressed.

But mostly there are a couple of controller things that sound like they should be looked at first.
1.) Corrosion of the gimbal stick pots. Doesn't happen much on DJI. Does on Yuneec. The check is to open the controller Hardware Monitor and ensure all sticks move smoothly and have full travel. The cure comes in a couple of levels. The first level is "vigorous stirring" of the sticks for a few seconds, then look at it again on Hardware Monitor. The next level is to spray some plastic safe contact cleaner on the pots and stir some more, check again, etc. Final level would be to replace the gimbal, but that is really rare.
2.) The other concern comes in the way you describe the drone veering right while traveling but did not mention it consistently drifting right while in a hover. It is vaguely possible that could be a mechanical issue in the gimbal, but that is unlikely. It is more likely suggests someone has altered something in the Channel Settings. The Hardware Monitor cannot detect that. It can only be seen by the "Final Output Display". Open the final output display by two rapid taps on the VOLTS icon. Push the right stick forward. ONLY CH03 scale should move. If the CG02 scale also moves, it implies the two channels are mixed in Channel Settings. The cure could be to fix the calibration issue manually, but that is somewhat challenging and is not needed since everything on a TH should be at factory standard anyway. You can achieve factory standard setting by doing a "Factory Reset". A factory reset is generally a good thing to do with a new controller anyway if it has been used by a previous owner. (Side Note. Make a copy of the flight logs before doing a factory reset. We may need them if the easy answers don't work.)
If you don't want to do a factory reset of the currently bound Model you can create a new Model and bind the camera/drone to the new model. Then do the Hardware Monitor and Final Output display checks again.
3.) The third area to explore is actual Channel Calibration (not the same as "Channel Settings"). Channel calibration is really never needed unless hardware has been replaced. This would deserve more discussion before doing as there can be consequences if you use calibration for the wrong circumstances.
Thank you very much.

I will do give this try tomorrow & see what happens. We currently are in a Tornado Watch so better wait for now...hah.

I will do the minor things first and move to the more complex.

I will let you know what I find out. I really do appreciate your help and expertise.
 
By the way. You have a TH PRO. There was never a legal definition. The lack of a specification allowed some sellers to play some games. But generally speaking if a TH has RealSense mounted on it, it is a TH PRO. If you take the RealSense off, it's a TH again.
 
By the way. You have a TH PRO. There was never a legal definition. The lack of a specification allowed some sellers to play some games. But generally speaking if a TH has RealSense mounted on it, it is a TH PRO. If you take the RealSense off, it's a TH again.
Why do some of the controllers have 3 antennas and this one has just two?
Thanks
 
Why do some of the controllers have 3 antennas and this one has just two?
Thanks
Mainly, 'cause it looks cooler and Yuneec figured more folks would buy them. They all have three antennas. But the earlier version had one antenna inside. Mounting the second antenna outside maybe helped function a little, but not really all that much. I have both and can't tell any difference.
 
Mainly, 'cause it looks cooler and Yuneec figured more folks would buy them. They all have three antennas. But the earlier version had one antenna inside. Mounting the second antenna outside maybe helped function a little, but not really all that much. I've got both and can't tell any difference.
Well that's good to know...thanks again. I appreciate your sharing your knowledge of this with me. I'm learning a lot about Yuneec drones.
 
You are calibrating things on the drone, but the more critical of the problems you describe come from the controller.
The altimeter is a drone thing, but it's pretty common does not often cause serious problems and can be discussed after fixing the controller.
The drifting is also a probably a drone thing. The comment that is does not stay stable in a hover needs more detail. If it is just general random drifts of a few feet, that's one issue. If it is moving in circles that look something like it is being flushed down a toilet, that's another thing, and needs to be addressed.

But mostly there are a couple of controller things that sound like they should be looked at first.
1.) Corrosion of the gimbal stick pots. Doesn't happen much on DJI. Does on Yuneec. The check is to open the controller Hardware Monitor and ensure all sticks move smoothly and have full travel. The cure comes in a couple of levels. The first level is "vigorous stirring" of the sticks for a few seconds, then look at it again on Hardware Monitor. The next level is to spray some plastic safe contact cleaner on the pots and stir some more, check again, etc. Final level would be to replace the gimbal, but that is really rare.
2.) The other concern comes in the way you describe the drone veering right while traveling but did not mention it consistently drifting right while in a hover. It is vaguely possible that could be a mechanical issue in the gimbal, but that is unlikely. It more likely suggests someone has altered something in the Channel Settings. The Hardware Monitor cannot detect that. It can only be seen by the "Final Output Display". Open the final output display by two rapid taps on the VOLTS icon. Push the right stick forward. ONLY CH03 scale should move. If the CG02 scale also moves, it implies the two channels are mixed in Channel Settings. The cure could be to fix the calibration issue manually, but that is somewhat challenging and is not needed since everything on a TH should be at factory standard anyway. You can achieve factory standard setting by doing a "Factory Reset". A factory reset is generally a good thing to do with a new controller anyway if it has been used by a previous owner. (Side Note. Make a copy of the flight logs before doing a factory reset. We may need them if the easy answers don't work.)
If you don't want to do a factory reset of the currently bound Model you can create a new Model and bind the camera/drone to the new model. Then do the Hardware Monitor and Final Output display checks again.
3.) The third area to explore is actual Channel Calibration (not the same as "Channel Settings"). Channel calibration is really never needed unless hardware has been replaced. This would deserve more discussion before doing as there can be consequences if you use calibration for the wrong circumstances.
I did some of these and it has helped...I have not had a chance yet to do a bit more of the ideas but will soon and will let you know how it works.
Thanks again...
 
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Hi everyone.

This is my first post. I've read a lot but not posted before.

I have three DJI's but had always liked the look of the Typhoon's so when a used one came up for sale locally I bought it. It was listed as a Yuneec Typhoon H Pro but not sure if it is a regular H or H Pro. The Controller has only two antennas not three like most I've seen. It does have the real sense sensors on it but I've watched videos of installing one of them on a regular H model so not sure.

I am flying it out in the country side with no big buildings around...just trees. Firmware was just updated before I purchased it.

I flew it three times and everything seemed to be fine but then on the 4th flight I noticed it drifting to right when attempting to fly a long straight line. I flew a straight line (about a thousand feet away) and it veered off to the right. I turned around and then attempted to fly a straight line back to me & it again veered to the right on its return back to me.

I thought perhaps the calibration was off so did the compass calibration, accelerometer calibration & gimbal calibration. Test flew it and it didn't make any difference.

I switched out controller batteries and Typhoon batteries but that made no difference.

I also noticed that it would not always yaw (pirouette) to the left, to the right yes but not to the left & it would not stay stable in a hover.

I also noticed the altimeter was not accurate. It would be in a hover at 10 feet but would show something minus 3 feet on the controller. (took off at ground level)

I recalibrated everything again but that did not help.

Does anyone have any advise I could try to get the Typhoon back in the air?

Thank you in advance for any and all help, I appreciate it.
learn to fly without GPS......thank me later.
 
You are calibrating things on the drone, but the more critical of the problems you describe come from the controller.
The altimeter is a drone thing, but it's pretty common does not often cause serious problems and can be discussed after fixing the controller.
The drifting is also a probably a drone thing. The comment that the drone does not stay stable in a hover needs more detail. If it is just general random drifts of a few feet, that's one issue. If it is moving in circles that look something like it is being flushed down a toilet, that's another thing, and needs to be addressed.

But mostly there are a couple of controller things that sound like they should be looked at first.
1.) Corrosion of the gimbal stick pots. Doesn't happen much on DJI. Does on Yuneec. The check is to open the controller Hardware Monitor and ensure all sticks move smoothly and have full travel. The cure comes in a couple of levels. The first level is "vigorous stirring" of the sticks for a few seconds, then look at it again on Hardware Monitor. The next level is to spray some plastic safe contact cleaner on the pots and stir some more, check again, etc. Final level would be to replace the gimbal, but that is really rare.
2.) The other concern comes in the way you describe the drone veering right while traveling but did not mention it consistently drifting right while in a hover. It is vaguely possible that could be a mechanical issue in the gimbal, but that is unlikely. It more likely suggests someone has altered something in the Channel Settings. The Hardware Monitor cannot detect that. It can only be seen by the "Final Output Display". Open the final output display by two rapid taps on the VOLTS icon. Push the right stick forward. ONLY CH03 scale should move. If the CG02 scale also moves, it implies the two channels are mixed in Channel Settings. The cure could be to fix the calibration issue manually, but that is somewhat challenging and is not needed since everything on a TH should be at factory standard anyway. You can achieve factory standard setting by doing a "Factory Reset". A factory reset is generally a good thing to do with a new controller anyway if it has been used by a previous owner. (Side Note. Make a copy of the flight logs before doing a factory reset. We may need them if the easy answers don't work.)
If you don't want to do a factory reset of the currently bound Model you can create a new Model and bind the camera/drone to the new model. Then do the Hardware Monitor and Final Output display checks again.
3.) The third area to explore is actual Channel Calibration (not the same as "Channel Settings"). Channel calibration is really never needed unless hardware has been replaced. This would deserve more discussion before doing as there can be consequences if you use calibration for the wrong circumstances.
Sorry it has been a few days since I've had a chance to work on the Typhoon H Pro. So much stuff going on but I did do a lot of what you said to do or try.

The unstable hover is both: wandering some back and forth & some toilet bowl circles. The wandering back and forth isn't a huge concern but at one point the TB hover seemed to be getting worse and worse which was a concern.

I did a factory reset and did a bind on both the craft and the camera.

My problem seems to lie with the yaw stick. It does odd things at odd times and is not predictable at all, completely variable.

I checked on the Yaw channel both on the monitor and the Final Output Display. Using the Final Output Display the readings are never the same. They (both left & right) creep all over the place... to the right might show 15 and the left 5...then the right might show 15 and the left show 8 or 10. Hold the stick far right or far left and that reading might or might not climb up to 25 or 30 or 35 and once even to 42 but most of the time to the right will show around 15 to 20 and to the left show 5 to 7.

I have moved the stick back and forth and round & round slowly then rapidly & that did seem to help some but eventually it goes back to very little movement on the Final Output Display.

I know you mentioned using some Plastic Safe Contact Cleaner (which I don't think I have but will have to order some). Would 90% rubbing Alcohol work? I have used the rubbing alcohol a lot on my rc airplane/helicopters but have NOT used it on a transmitter gimbal stick before.

After doing the factory reset, rebinding and re-calibrating the problem with veering off to the right from straight on a long straight forward, long straight rearward is much much better. The problem with the altitude reading also has improved a lot. I believe that problem is solved.

I think my main concern at this point it the "Yaw" stick. I wonder if that particular Potentiometer (POT) has gone bad?

Thanks again for your help with this.
 
The 90% alcohol should be fine to use as long as you can get it into the body of the pot. This document will give you info on things to check to do a thorough cleaning Control Stick Gimbal Maintenance.pdf

You can also swap the stick gimbal assemblies to see if the problem follows the gimbal or lies with the connection to the I/O Control Board.

The first portion of this video will show you how to open the ST16 to access the internals.

Having the sticks physically working correctly is a prerequisite to doing any calibration of them. This shows how to do a proper calibration.
 
The 90% alcohol should be fine to use as long as you can get it into the body of the pot. This document will give you info on things to check to do a thorough cleaning Control Stick Gimbal Maintenance.pdf

You can also swap the stick gimbal assemblies to see if the problem follows the gimbal or lies with the connection to the I/O Control Board.

The first portion of this video will show you how to open the ST16 to access the internals.

Having the sticks physically working correctly is a prerequisite to doing any calibration of them. This shows how to do a proper calibration.
Thank you DM as this will help me a lot....I will give this a shot and let you know how it worked!
I appreciate your help & expertise.
 
Thank you DM as this will help me a lot....I will give this a shot and let you know how it worked!
I appreciate your help & expertise.
You are welcome. Be sure to check the mounting of the Yaw pot. The actions you describe suggest it could be loose. Also clean the connectors at the I/O Board and at the gimbal assemblies. They are more notorious for the fine white corrosion than the pot internals.
 
You are welcome. Be sure to check the mounting of the Yaw pot. The actions you describe suggest it could be loose. Also clean the connectors at the I/O Board and at the gimbal assemblies. They are more notorious for the fine white corrosion than the pot internals.
I will.
Thanks again!
 
You are calibrating things on the drone, but the more critical of the problems you describe come from the controller.
The altimeter is a drone thing, but it's pretty common does not often cause serious problems and can be discussed after fixing the controller.
The drifting is also a probably a drone thing. The comment that the drone does not stay stable in a hover needs more detail. If it is just general random drifts of a few feet, that's one issue. If it is moving in circles that look something like it is being flushed down a toilet, that's another thing, and needs to be addressed.

But mostly there are a couple of controller things that sound like they should be looked at first.
1.) Corrosion of the gimbal stick pots. Doesn't happen much on DJI. Does on Yuneec. The check is to open the controller Hardware Monitor and ensure all sticks move smoothly and have full travel. The cure comes in a couple of levels. The first level is "vigorous stirring" of the sticks for a few seconds, then look at it again on Hardware Monitor. The next level is to spray some plastic safe contact cleaner on the pots and stir some more, check again, etc. Final level would be to replace the gimbal, but that is really rare.
2.) The other concern comes in the way you describe the drone veering right while traveling but did not mention it consistently drifting right while in a hover. It is vaguely possible that could be a mechanical issue in the gimbal, but that is unlikely. It more likely suggests someone has altered something in the Channel Settings. The Hardware Monitor cannot detect that. It can only be seen by the "Final Output Display". Open the final output display by two rapid taps on the VOLTS icon. Push the right stick forward. ONLY CH03 scale should move. If the CG02 scale also moves, it implies the two channels are mixed in Channel Settings. The cure could be to fix the calibration issue manually, but that is somewhat challenging and is not needed since everything on a TH should be at factory standard anyway. You can achieve factory standard setting by doing a "Factory Reset". A factory reset is generally a good thing to do with a new controller anyway if it has been used by a previous owner. (Side Note. Make a copy of the flight logs before doing a factory reset. We may need them if the easy answers don't work.)
If you don't want to do a factory reset of the currently bound Model you can create a new Model and bind the camera/drone to the new model. Then do the Hardware Monitor and Final Output display checks again.
3.) The third area to explore is actual Channel Calibration (not the same as "Channel Settings"). Channel calibration is really never needed unless hardware has been replaced. This would deserve more discussion before doing as there can be consequences if you use calibration for the wrong circumstances.
You are the man WTFDproject
 

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